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INGLEBY INCLINE -
GREENHOW BANK Map Reference:
NZ604039
Situation and Character Situated in a commanding position overlooking the old railway incline, the rocks extend for several hundred metres along the western edge of Ingleby moor. The crags constitute a series of compact buttresses of clean and weathered sandstone, with many of the climbs ranking with the best in the area. Facing west, the crag enjoys any sunshine for most of the day and coupled with its quick drying nature makes for a very enjoyable place to climb. However, choose a mild and windless day as the crags open aspect make it particularly sensitive to wind where it can become unbelievably cold even in the middle of summer. These vagaries of the weather were obviously well understood by the iron stone miners on the railway as they used to call the area “Siberia”.
History Although much of the crags exploration has taken place in recent years it has been surprisingly difficult to uncover its history despite searching archives and journals. It has been possible however, to group climbs within certain time periods and hopefully information will surface in time to accurately record and credit these ascents.
The crags first routes were climbed between 1956 and 1960 and were the combined efforts of Arthur Barker, Bill Dell, Harry Piercy and Maurice Wilson. Their routes include amongst others Signal Ridge, Cosy Corner, Hunter’s Chimney and the excellent Rack and Pinion. In 1962 armed with the latest guidebook Mike Stellings and Tony Marr repeated all the existing climbs then added Tiptoe and a variant to Signal Ridge. The pair returned in 1964 and climbed several worthwhile routes including Smoothy, and Dangle. The appearance of a new guidebook in 1970 renewed interest in the crag resulting in more than forty new routes being climbed over the following decade, but sadly first ascent details exist for only eight of those climbs. Early in 1971 Pete Whillance was the first to break new ground with his delicate Pickpocket and the very bold Ellis’s Eliminate. The most significant route of that period was the steep and very impressive Time Captain climbed in 1979 by Paul Ingham and Tony Marr. The next recorded activity was in 1984 when Steve Brown and Dave Paul dispensed with the aid on Pete Whillance’s 1971 route The Pullman, renaming it Modern Primitive. The 1990’s were also very productive, beginning in 1991 with Tony Marr’s ascent of the delightful Top Gun closely followed by Martin Parker and Francis [Monty] Montague’s bold routes Love or Confusion and Martin’s Wall. Twelve routes were climbed during 1993 of these Incline and Fall, and Primate Wardrobe Supervisor by Steve Finlay and Chris Shorter are particularly fine, closely followed by Gym Junkies and Hang Tough by Tony Marr. Several worthwhile additions were climbed in 2001 whilst checking descriptions for this guide, the best of these being Deep Impact by Tony Marr and party.
Access and ApproachesThe best approach is by taking the Battersby road out of Ingleby Greenhow, and then take the first turning right to Bankfoot Farm. Just before the farm turn right onto the cinder track and park just before the “No Vehicular Access” sign. Proceed on foot (or bike) for 1½ miles to some cottages. Continue through a gate and up the 1 in 5 incline to the limit of the forest (gate) from where the rocks can be seen. At present the landowner, Bass, discourages climbing between March and October. Check with the BMC for the current situation.
Bouldering There are a number of large boulders just before the gate which have been explored and can provide a few hours entertainment! More boulders can be found across the Ingleby Moor. Details here.
Tommy Smith enjoying a September afternoon in 2005
The Climbs The climbs are described from right to left.
One Armed Buttress This small buttress lies approximately 150m beyond the gate, close to the incline cutting and directly above a prominent boulder on the hillside.
1. Armed and Dangerous 4m HVS 5b * Climb the delightful shallow groove in the nose of the buttress. Tony Marr, Linda Marr 11th May1995.
2. One Armed Bandit 4m HVS 5b On the left of the nose is a slab. Climb its centre to a flat hold, move right and follow the rib. Francis (Monty) Montague 1993.
100m to the left and directly above the gate is:
American Buttress This buttress is defined by a large leaning block forming a chimney. The first route climbs the arête 3m right of this chimney.
3. Fifteen Love 5m VD Start 3m right of the first chimney. Climb the arête of the leaning block. 1970s
4. Seven Up 5m D The chimney formed by the leaning block. 1970s
5. Pepsi 6m HVS 5a The wall left of Seven Up. Start up a shallow groove then trend left on letterbox holds to finish. Tony Marr (Solo) 29th August 1993 The first of five new routes climbed that day.
6. Liberty 6m E1 5c * Left of Pepsi is a thin crack in the nose of the buttress. Climb it to an interesting exit. Tony Marr 29th August 1993 Second did not follow.
7. Crack and Up 5m D The easy chimney on the left side of the buttress. 1970s
30m further left is a buttress with two prominent cracks in its left side.
Political Buttress
8. Problems 5m D The right crack. 1970s
9. Communist Crack 5m D The left crack. 1970s
60m to the left lies:
Mac’s Buttress
10. Pizza Pie 5m D Climb the obvious chimney with a holly tree in its left wall. 1970s
11. Heather Crack 7m HS Left of Pizza Pie is a thin, heather filled crack. Not recommended! 1970s
12. Hash Browns 7m VS 5a * The shallow corner to the left of Heather Crack is climbed boldly to a difficult exit. 1970s
13. Geronimo 7m E2 5c * Left of Hash Browns is a cave. Pull out of the cave onto the wall, exit via a small flake on the right. Tony Marr 29th August 1993 Second did not follow.
14. Big Mac 7m VD Start 4m left of Geronimo. Gain the slab from the left side of the nose. 1970s
The next buttress is 100m to the left. A small cave at the left end of the rocks bears the inscription “Fox Hunters”.
Hunters Buttress
15. Humble Beginnings 6m HVD Start 3m right of the obvious corner of Chock Crack. Gain the slanting ledge and then climb the slab just right of the rib to the break, step to the left, and finish over the final block. Tony Marr, Mike Tooke, Frank Fitzgerald 18th February 2001
16. Tender Trap 7m HVS 5c * Start 2m right of Chock Crack. Pull onto the wall then trend leftwards to gain the upper of two obvious horizontal slots, continue straight up the slab then the final block. Not without interest! Tony Marr, Mike Tooke 18th February 2001
17. Chock Crack 7m VS 4c * The exciting jamming crack in the corner. Well worth the effort. Tony Marr, Eric Marr 1969
18. Marrakech Express 8m HS 4b * Start just to the left of Chock Crack. Climb the front right-hand edge of the buttress. A bold but excellent climb that requires a positive approach. (No Protection). Pete Whillance, spring 1971.
19. Deep Impact 8m HVS 5b * Start at the arête to the left of Marrakech Express. Climb the front edge of the arête moving right into a large hole in the slab, finish direct. The name could apply if you get it wrong! No protection. Tony Marr, Mike Tooke, Frank Fitzgerald 18th February 2001.
20. Corner Crack 6m S Climb the crack left of Chock Crack to an awkward finish. 1960s
21. Coumartin Slab 7m E1 5b * Climb the centre of the slab left of Corner Crack. Difficulties increase with height. Martin Parker, Francis Montague (Monty) 3rd December 1991. Variation: HVS 5bPulling leftwards just as the pocket holds run out makes for a slightly easier exit. Tony Marr (Solo) 29th August 1993.
22. Block Chimney 7m S Start 4m left of Corner Crack. Climb over the awkward jammed block then scramble through the holly choked chimney above. 1960s
23. Pickpocket 8m E1 5b ** Climb the centre of the steep wall 2m left of Block Chimney. Sustained and without protection. Pete Whillance Spring 1971. A fine contribution by Whillance, climbed solo.
24. What Planet Are You On 8m HVS 5a The slab 3m left of Pickpocket. Climb the undercut slab and left side of the rib past a pocket. Poorly protected. Francis Montague (Monty) 17th February1992. Variation: E1 5b Climb the right side of the rib direct. Bold and without protection. Tony Marr 18th February 2001.
25. Rack and Pinion 8m HS 4a * Start just right of the overhang. Step up and follow a curving ramp into the corner, step right to finish up the ridge. Good climbing, but poorly protected until the corner is reached. Late 1950s. An excellent natural line and the hardest route climbed at that time it is unfortunate that details of the first ascent were unrecorded. Rack and Pinion Variation Finish VS 4c Follow the normal route into the corner and finish straight up this. Tony Marr, Mike Tooke, Peter & Alison Shawcross, Frank Fitzgerald 6th October 1991. 26. Top Gun 12m HVS 5a *** A zigzag line, which starts as for Rack and Pinion. Move up left to the base of a slanting crack. A left to right rising traverse follows the crack back right, across the bullet-scarred wall, to exit just before the corner. Good climbing. Tony Marr, Mike Tooke, Peter & Alison Shawcross, Frank Fitzgerald 6th October 1991. Apparently the wall was used for military target practice in the 1940s
27. Martin’s Wall 7m HVS 5c Start for Top Gun then climb directly up the wall from the start of the flake. A long reach helps! Francis Montague (Monty) 17th February 1992
28. Love or Confusion 7m E4 6b * Left of Top Gun is an undercut arête. Pull around the roof at a flake hold, move up and gain an obvious pocket. A difficult mantelshelf adds the finishing touch. Francis Montague (Monty), Martin Parker 6th December 1991
29. Hunters’ Chimney 7m HVD Start in the cave at the left end of the buttress. Ascend the chimney, which is awkward to start. Maurice Wilson. Late 1950s
40m further left the next buttress is:
Cleft Buttress
30. Helix 5m HVS 5b Start at the undercut wall at the right-hand end of the buttress. Pull over the sculptured overlap and trend up right to escape. Tony Marr (Solo) 11th February 2001
31. Easter 5m M The obvious wide crack near the right hand end. 1970s
32. Back Lash 5m D Climb the slab immediately left of Easter. Tony Marr 11th February 2001
33. Dog Leg Crack 5m HD The awkward wide crack formed by the block. Tony Marr 11th February 2001
34. Brutus 7m HVS 5b Climb the centre of the wall pas t the obvious flake high on the wall. Paul Ingham (solo) 23rd September 1979
35. Pobble Wall 7m VS 4c * The sculptured wall 2m left of Brutus, starting just right of the lowest point of the buttress. Tony Marr, Mike Stellings 1964.
36. The Corner 7m VS 4c * The obvious curving corner/crack at the left end of Pobble Wall is harder than it looks. Tony Marr, Mike Stellings 1964.
40m left of Cleft Buttress is a large boulder.
The Boulder
37. No Prisoners 4m 6b * The shallow diagonal crack to the right of I Surrender provides an interesting problem. Tony Marr 6th August 1993.
38. I Surrender 5m D The arête on the left side of the boulder. 1970s
7m left is a small outcrop.
39. Babelogne 7m HS From the bottom of the slab climb left onto the arête and then trend right to the top. Very entertaining. 1970s
30m left is an easy slab.
40. Pigs on the Wing 5m D Ascend the centre of the slab. 1970s
50m left is a large buttress with a perched block on top. Capstone Buttress
41. Sloopy 15m VS 4c Start below a ‘V’ groove 3m right of the overhang. Climb the wall to reach the ‘V’ groove. Ascend the groove and slabby wall above. Tony Marr, Alan Taylor 6th July 1977
42. Ceasor 15m HVS 5a Climb up the right hand end of the overhang to the lip, traverse left for 2m then continue to the top. 1970s
43. Modern Primitive 15m E3 5b * This route starts beneath the left end of the overhang at its widest point. Climb the roof via a crack to gain the ledge above. Move right and continue up the front of the buttress. Pete Whillance Spring 1971. 1 pt. aid. The climb is called The Pullman. FFA. Steve Brown, Dave Paul April 1984. Dispensing with the aid the route is re-named.
Franco Cookson soloing Modern Primative
44. Black Crack 8m S Start in a large corner to the left of Modern Primitive. Climb the crack throughout. 1970s Variation Finish: VS 4b Climb the corner until a groove on the right can be entered, follow this to exit onto the arête. Tony Marr, Alan Taylor 6th July 1977.
45. Dreams 8m VD Climb the arête to the left of Black Crack to a ledge and continue to the top. 1970s
46. The Chain 5m D Climb the twin crack left of Dreams. 1970s
47. Holly Wall 7m VD Climb the wall 6m left of The Chain. 1970s
48. Holly Crack 6m D The crack forming the left edge of Holly Wall. 1970s
49. The Cleft 5m D The obvious wide corner 4m left of Holly Crack. Poor. 1970s
50. Swinger 7m S 5m left of The Cleft. Climb the right hand side of the arête. 1970s
51. Twister 5m S Starts in a corner 3m right of the extreme left end of the rocks. Climb the crack throughout. 1970s
The next buttress is 120m left.
Rowan Buttress
52. Wall and Slab 8m VS 5a Climb a tree choked crack in the wall at the right hand side of the buttress. 1970s
Anyone’s Daughter E3 5c
11m
52a. Stonemaster 10m E1 5b ** Start as for Anyone's Daughter. Climb to the start of the obvious flake/ramp. Step left and climb the rib to exit up the shallow scoop on the right. Superb climbing. Protection [mainly Friends] is spaced but good. FA. Tony Marr, Mike Tooke 9/08/09.Note: we climbed the following route before checking your web site. I cleaned the wall of heather and unearthed some good protection points. I was not aware of Franco's routes until later...can't understand why they didn't clean the wall...they may find their routes now slightly easier! We considered their lines but could see one was going to be hard [Anyone's Daughter], fortunately we chose a different line which I'm very happy with.
53. Crack and Groove 10m S * Starts 5m left of Wall and Slab. Climb the thin crack and the enjoyable right-hand groove above. Tony Marr, Mike Stellings 1964.
54. Wall and Groove 10m VS 4c Start at the toe of the buttress. Climb the delicate wall to the heather ledge. Finish up the left-hand groove. Mike Stellings, Tony Marr 1964.
55. Deception 5m VS 4c Start just left of Wall and Groove. Move up and left to a shallow groove/slab, and final thin crack. Tony Marr (Solo) 29th August 1993.
56. Next Crack 7m D Climb the crack 4m left of Wall and Groove. 1960s
56a Tyrus 7m HS 4b
57. Twin Cracks 5m D Starts 3m left of Next Crack. Climb the cracks sprouting a Rowan tree. 1960s
80m left and at a slightly higher level lies:
58. Puffing Billy 7m S The obvious hand jamming crack in the left wall of the buttress. Pre 1961.
58a. Two Hoots 7m VS 5b *
59. Choo Choo 8m S The next climb is 10m left of Puffing Billy across a gully. Follow the meandering groove up the rounded buttress. Pre 1961.
59. Choo Choo graded Diff in the guide is
actually Severe! However, a variation Diff, can be made by stepping left out of
the groove at 4m and climbing the slab/arete. Poorly protected.
60. Jet Lag 5m D The chimney 20m left of Choo Choo. 1970s
The short wall to the right of Jet Lag has an enjoyable 5b/c problem up its centre.
61. Dangle 6m HVS 5a * Start 14m left of Jet Lag. Climb the awkward crack in the overhang. Tony Marr, Mike Stellings 1964. Preparing for a visit to the Peak District, the team were keen to practice their crack climbing skills; they were not to be disappointed!
The next climbs lie on the impressive buttress to the left of Dangle.
62. Primate Wardrobe Supervisor 10m E2 5c ** Start in a vee groove left of Dangle. Climb up to the roof, swing right to a hole then finish straight up. Bold climbing. Steve Finlay, Chris Shorter June 1993. One of three superb climbs added to this buttress by a very strong team.
63. Incline and Fall 11m E2 6a * Start 3m to the left of the last route at a slanting slab. Climb the slab until a move left enables the final thin crack to be followed with difficulty. Steve Finlay, Chris Shorter June 1993.
64. Group 4 Factor 9m E1 5b Begin just left of Incline and Fall. Climb into the large hole in the slab then gain (jump for) the ledge above. Continue up the bulging arête of the buttress. Good, but escapable. Steve Finlay, Chris Shorter June 1993.
The short rippled slab to the right of Chattanooga has been climbed at 5b.
65. Chattanooga 8m VS 4c Starts beneath an overhang on a small buttress 10m left of Group 4 Factor. Keep left to the skyline then up the slab to the top. Pre 1961. Originally climbed at VD. Upgraded since the loss of a crucial hold.
Greenhow Buttress
66. Smoothy 7m S Faces Chattanooga across an open gully. Climb the rounded wall direct to finish left of a prominent summit block. Mike Stellings, Tony Marr 1964. Climbed in very windy conditions, which almost plucked the leader from the slab.
67. A Question of Sport 9m HVS 5b Starts 2m left of Smoothy, just right of an overhang. Climb the shallow scoop to a break, step right and continue up the centre of the slab. 1970s
68. A Matter of Taste 9m HVS 5a Start as for A Question of Sport, climb up to the break, step left and finish up the slab. 1970s Direct Start: 6a Gain the arête from the toe of the buttress. Climb the arête direct to a junction with the normal route. Karin Magog, Steve Crowe both led 26th May 2005.
69. Signal Ridge 12m HVD Start at the lowest point of the buttress at the arête. Climb the arête mainly on its left side until the final edge, which is taken direct. Pre 1961. Variation Start: 4b Climb the steep groove just right of the arête to a junction with the normal route. Mike Stellings, Tony Marr November 1962.
70. Rampant 7m VS 4c Follows the ramp on the wall left of Signal Ridge to finish up the centre of the final wall. Tony Marr (Solo) 23rd September 1979.
70a. The Pot Hole 5m HVS 5b.
71. Saunter Slab 7m HVS 5b Start across the gully 3m left of Signal Ridge. Climb the centre of the slab. Poorly protected. Tony Marr (solo) 1972.
72. Inclination 10m HVS 5a Climb the short crack 3m right of Cosy Corner followed by a shallow corner, step left and finish direct. Tony Marr, Alison Shawcross 6th October 1991.
73. Cosy Corner 12m VD *** Start under the large overhang. Climb the short corner to a ledge. Continue up the corner to the moor. The classic of the crag. Pre 1961.
74. Drop Out 12m VS A2 The impressive overhang has been climbed direct by artificial means. Warning: - the in-situ bolts are in an unsafe condition. Rick Graham, Tony Ingram 20th June 1971. The roof required a high expenditure of time and energy as the bolts holes were drilled by hand over a period of several weekends.
75. Time Captain 12m E3 5c ** Start a few metres left of Cosy Corner at a short rightward facing corner. Climb the corner and short wall above to an obvious crack leading rightwards to beneath the large roof. At the roof move left around the overhang and gain the slab above by a hard move. Further hard moves should lead to the top. Bold. Paul Ingham, Tony Marr 23rd September 1979. A fine solution to the seemingly impenetrable overhang. The team were fresh with success from the previous day when they had made the first free ascent of Cleveland’s largest overhang, Wedge Route at Cringle Crag. Ingham’s comment on Time Captain; “great climbing, but it felt more like a slab route after yesterday”.
76. Greenhow Chimney 8m D ** Climb the chimney starting 10m left of Cosy Corner. Highly entertaining. Pre 1961.
77. Ellis’s Eliminate 12m E3 5c * Start up the outside of Greenhow Chimney. On the right wall is a horizontal ledge. Hand traverse the ledge until it runs out, make further hard moves to gain a slab and finish more easily. Bold and very poorly protected. Pete Whillance (solo) spring 1971. A very bold and impressive ascent.
78. Little Chimney 5m D Starts just to the left of Greenhow Chimney. Climb the short crack and chimney. Pre 1961.
The buttress also has an entertaining low-level traverse, 5a.
79. Tiptoe 10m 5a Starts at Cosy Corner. Traverse leftwards across the slab and around to Greenhow Chimney; now reverse it if you like. Tony Marr, Mike Stellings October 1962 both solo. Climbed whilst sheltering from a hailstorm.
79a. Iron Horse 7m D
200m further left and slightly lower than the main edge is a short steep wall and prominent holly tree. This outcrop is:
Cellar Wall Several enjoyable routes can be devised here above a good landing. The best of these are: - Right-hand side of the right wall. 4c Centre of the right wall. 5b Left arête (left of the holly). 4b All climbed during 1970s.
30m left are the last two buttresses.
South Buttress
80. Slipstream 6m VD The obvious flake crack on the right side of the buttress. 1970s
81. South Buttress Direct 8m HVS 5c Start at the nose of the buttress. Climb onto the ledge, and then move up the front of the buttress using the upside down flake. Pull right to gain a spike, and then move up on sloping holds to finish. The route is strenuous but well protected. 1970s
The last significant outcrop is:
North Buttress
82. Parallels 5m S The obvious vertical crack in the right side of the buttress. 1970s
A short flake crack just to the right of Parallels gives an interesting problem 4c.
83. Hang Tough 6m E2 6a * Start just left of Parallels. Follow a line of holds trending up leftwards. Strenuous. Tony Marr 6th August 1993. Second did not follow.
84. Gym Junkies 9m E3 6b *** Start at the lowest point of the buttress. Climb direct to the obvious finger crack splitting the roof. Pull around the roof and follow the crack until it runs out, further excitement follows to reach the top. Sustained and strenuous but well protected. Tony Marr 6th August 1993. Second did not follow. Tony recalls, “I’d tried the line some years earlier but had failed miserably just above the roof. This time the crack went well, but the exit gave me a few anxious moments due to lichen on the final holds.”
85. Clarity 9m HVS 5b Start to the left of Gym Junkies under the roof. Climb the slab, until it is possible to pull right onto the bulging wall, and then continue up the front of the buttress. 1970s
85.5 Counter-Intuitively
9m E2 5c/6a
86. Out of Time 9m HVS 5b Follow Time to the foot of the final crack. Step right and climb the delicate wall. Tony Marr 6th August 1993. Solo. The fourth and final new route that day.
87. Time 10m S Starts as for Clarity. From the slab continue up the slanting jamming crack above. 1970s
87a. Overtime 12m VS 5a
The outcrops further to the left provide short problems only.
Gallery:
Full details in the North East England Guide
Ingley Incline (Greenhow Bank) PDF
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