Map reference: NU233044
Altitude: 30m
Approach: 2 mins
Aspect: North Facing
History
Malcolm Lowerson was the first person to discover the climbing potential of
this crag in 1959, putting up most of the popular routes. Many of the first
ascents were soloed including most of the Severes and Very Severes and the
difficult Wet Fly. On the first attempt Malcolm was unable to summon up courage
for the top wall. He also failed to make the moves back down to the ledge which
resulted in a long jump into the river below.
The second phase of development was by Bob Hutchinson and John Earl. This
started in 1973 with The Butcher and in the period up to 1976 they freed Ancient
Briton and the Girdle Traverse and climbed, amongst others, The Angler and
Greenwells Glory. Bob and Tommy Smith climbed the ferocious Barracuda Roof in
1979 and 9 years later Breakout was added by Kevin Howett and Andy Nelson.
Since the 1989 guide, further development has resulted in a dozen new routes of
all grades. Of note is the 1999 ascent by Paul Smith of Little Mermaid which
provides bold and powerful climbing up the left side of the overhanging Upstream
Buttress and Steve Crowe's 2002 ascent of the technical and sensational Bigger
Splash.
Situation and Character
The Jack Rock has an atmosphere that is unique in Northumberland climbing.
It is a weathered sandstone crag of a vertical nature which rises up on the
south bank of the Coquet and in part overhangs the river.
The left hand end of the crag is bounded by the overhanging Downstream Buttress.
The next prominent buttress to the right is Tree Buttress which has a square
incut corner, running vertically up its centre, topped by a pine. To the right
and centre of the crag is Hanging Buttress which overhangs the river. A deep
groove divides the upper part of Hanging Buttress from Wedge Buttress which juts
out over the river and forms the left hand wall of the recess. The rock in the
recess is the easiest angled on the whole crag but is topped by overhangs. To
the right is Upstream Buttress which gently overhangs to its tree crested top
and bounds the west end of the crag.
The rock contains some interesting fossils and has a number of ancient cup and
ring marks inscribed upon it, particularly high on the arête to the right of
Ancient Briton. One can only speculate at the climbing ability of those who
carved them and care should be taken not to damage them.
Approaches and Access
The crag lies on the south bank of the River Coquet, facing north, 400
metres downstream from Morwick Mill. Morwick Village is about 3 miles south west
of Warkworth. The crag is best reached from the Felton/Acklington Village B6345
road. From the centre of Acklington take the minor road north signed Warkworth.
Follow this for 2 miles then take a left turn, signposted to Morwick Mill.
Follow a rough track down towards the river where there is limited parking on
the left. The crag is reached along the river bank. Access can be awkward during
periods of high water or in summer when the vegetation is thick, when It may be
better to approach along the top of the crag.
A WORD OF WARNING
"Both Brian Teasdale & I visited Jack Rock last night. To Brian’s amusement, he discovered when topping out on Hanging Tree that there is no longer a safe exit off the top, the bank side having collapsed, with no real safe way around the tree and no decent protection on the top pinnacle !
We just thought it would be wise to warn people given our thought provoking experience. Although difficult to reach due to the unstable nature of the bank, future climbers could in theory protect the top section by pre- placing a sling around the tree, (and probably best abbing off rather than risk the gripping final 3m pitch). It also makes you wonder how many of the routes may also have suffered from subsidence so it may be wise to exercise a little caution and pre inspect the top first !"
Barry Nicholls 17th June 2003
Steve Crowe girdling the Downstream Buttress at E5 6b
The Climbs
The climbs are described from right to left.
1. Bruin 10m HS
2. Straight Up 9m S
3. Pause and Ponder
15m VS 4c *
4. The Poacher 11m E1
5b
5. Greenwells Glory 17m E3 5c *
John Earl and Bob Hutchinson
1973/6
6. The Angler 15m E3 5c *
John Earl and Bob Hutchinson
1973/6
7. The Butcher 20m E3
5c ***
Bob Hutchinson and John Earl 1973/6
8. The Little Mermaid
15m E5 6b *
Paul
Smith May1999 (Belayed by Mark Savage)
9. Dry Fly Corner 12m
VS 4c *
10. Humpback 12m E1 5b
Malcolm
Lowerson 2001
11. Brown Trout 10m S
12. Stickleback 10m S
13. High Board 18m HS ***
Malcolm Lowerson
14. The Plummet 12m E2
5b
15. A Bigger Splash
14m E5 6b *
Steve Crowe, Karin Magog 2001
16. Devil's Disciple
15m HVS 5b
17. Devil's Wedge 15m
VS 4c *
18. Wet Fly 15m HVS 5a **
Malcolm Lowerson
19. Criss Cross 18m
MVS 4c
20. Ancient Briton 12m
E2 5b ***
Bob Hutchinson and
John Earl 1974
21. Jack of all Trades
14m E2 5c
Dave
Turnbull 31 December 1988 Solo
22. Salmon Leap
Variation 10m VS 5a
23. Salmon Leap 15m VS
5a *
24. Kelt 11m HS 4c
25. Sardine Sandwich
10m E1 5b
26. Deep Fry 10m HS 4c
27. Fish Supper 10m HS
4c
28. Blazin' Aces 10m
E1 5b
29. Gibbet 10m E2 5b
30. Hanging Tree 10m
HVS 5b *
31. Minnow 10m HS
32. Boreal Edge 6m HVS
5b
33. Smolt 8m HS
34. Flounder 8m VS 5a
35. Shark Attack 9m E2
5c
36. Mouldy Corner 10m
VS 4c
37. Barracuda Roof 12m
E5 6a **
Tommy Smith and Bob Smith 1979
38. Breakout 10m E5 6b
*
Kev Howett and Andy Nelson 1988
50b A Big Splash 12m E5 6b
The undercut groove left of the Plummet is climbed crossing High Board and finishing up the final groove of The Plummet but pulling out leftwards at the top in a spectacular position.
Steve
Crowe, Karin Magog. 20th
June 2001
39. Spate Wall 7m HVS
5b
40. Girdle Traverse
56m HVS 5b
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Northumberland Climbing Guide The definitive guide to climbing routes in Northumberland. Updates available from the NMC here.
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The Northumberland Bouldering Guide The Second Edition of the guide was written and produced by the people who developed the area. Updates available from the NMC here.
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