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Jesmond Dene

Map reference: NZ254672

Jesmond Dene (Northumberland Bouldering Guide page 107)
On entering the Dene from Castles Farm Road follow the path down right to the steps which lead to the boulders. This area has a sunny aspect and offers scope for many variations and eliminates. 

 

Blackberry Boulder

 

1.        Left Arête   VB 4c

SS. Climb the arête with feet on the wall.

 

2.        Tarmac Rising   V5 6b

SS. 1m right of the arête. Trend right after a hard start.

 

3.        El Cap   V4 6b

SS. From two small chipped holds, climb directly up the wall finishing at the two scooped holds.

 

4.        Half Dome   VB 4b

SS. Climb directly to the large hole.

 

5.        Right Arête   VB 4b

SS. Both hands on low hold on the arête.

 

6.        Left Edge   VB 4b

SS. The left edge only.

 

7.        Yosemite Wall   VB 4b

SS. Climb the centre of the narrow wall.

 

 

8.        The Nude End   VB 4a

SS. Climb the arête passing two fishy cracks.

 

9.        Wicked End   V3 6a

SS. Move up from the bottom break and then bridge between the arêtes for hands and feet? Check!

 

10.     Half Round   VB 4a

SS. 2m right of the arête. Climb the wall to the undercling and to the top.

 

11.     The Howling   V3 6a

SS. The dog leg crack.

 

12.     The Claw   V3 6a

SS. 1m right. Up the wall to the right past the breaks to finish on weenies.

 

13.     Quick Silver   VB 4b

SS. Link up the two spaced scooped holes.

 

14.     The Slathe Wall   VB 4a

SS. Climb tdirectly up to the largest hole, use this to reach another hole.

 

15.     The Nose   VB 3c

SS. Climb the arête on big jugs.

 

16.     Crimp to Crimp   VB 4c

SS. Climb from crimp to crimp!

 

 

Right Hand Boulder

The smaller boulder to the right.

 

 

17.     Knee Trembler V7 6b

Climb, just to left of recorded problem, from a standing start. This has been climbed before by others but not recorded.

 

18.     The Scoop   V5 6b

SS.  with right hand finger in hole. Shoot up the scoop on monodoights finishing right.

 

 

More bouldering exists in Jesmond Dene Quarry

 

 

 

 

Northumberland Climbing Guide

The definitive guide to climbing routes in Northumberland.

Updates available from the NMC here.

 

Buy now from Wildtrak.

 

The Northumberland Bouldering Guide  

The Second Edition of the guide was written and produced by the people who developed the area.

Updates available from the NMC here.

 

Buy now from Wildtrak

 

 

For more information about this crag visit the NMC website.

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