KAY NEST BOULDER
OS Sheet: 100
Map Reference: SE583987
Aspect: South/West facing
Altitude: 250m
Approach Time: 30minutes
Situation and Character
This impressive boulder looks like the hull of a ship and is situated in the open valley below Kay Nest Crag. The boulder sits in the open valley below Kay Nest Crag and enjoys the afternoon and early evening sun.
History
There are no recorded claims for the first ascents but Frank Fitzgerald and Martin Parker have made many visits although others may have preceded their ascents. Steve Crowe climbed the following problems in 1996 but most of them had signs of traffic, with the exception of 1 and maybe 2?
Access
Leave the Stokesley - Helmsley road about a mile beyond Chop Gate and take the track to Cam House Farm. A path then leads over the Nab Ridge to the pleasant valley of Tripsdale. The crag can be reached in about 30 minutes. The crag can also be combined with a trip to High Crag (GR587977) by following an indistinct path along the edge of the moor.
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1. 5a/b |
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2. 5b/c |
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3. 5a |
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Walk off! |
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4. 5b |
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5. 5b |
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6. 5b |
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7. 4b/c |
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1 5a/b Climb the west wall to finish at flakes and an awkward mantelshelf.
2 5b/c Start just right of 1. Gain the rising L-R hand traverse leading almost to the arête, pockets lead to the top.
3 5a The arête. Gain the ledge and continue up the arête above.
4 5b The wall immediately right of the arête, moving right near the top.
5 5b Start 3m right of the arête, moving left near the top to finish as for 4.
It may be possible to finish direct but needs brushing.
6 5b Start about 2/3m left of a blunt rib. Gain the curving edge/break near the top of the wall. Finish on jugs - well back.
7 4b The blunt rib can be climbed direct.
There are many boulders in this area but they don’t lend themselves to boulder problems.
KAY NEST CRAG
OS Sheet: 100
Map Reference: SE583987
Aspect: South/West facing
Altitude: 250m
Approach Time: 30minutes
Leave the Stokesley - Helmsley road about a mile beyond Chop Gate and take the track to Cam House Farm. A path then leads over Nab Ridge to the pleasant valley of Tripsdale. The foot of the crag, flanking the eastern side of the valley, is reached in about half an hour. The crag can also be reached by taking the first lane to the left after Ledge Beck bridge (two miles from Chop Gate) and by walking up Tripsdale after passing through the farms at the foot of the valley. Small numbers only.
There is a good footpath at the top of the crag and this is used in preference to the awkward rocky undergrowth below the crag.
Tally Ho 20m Severe
Lies just to the left of the centre of the main crag. Scramble to a large ledge covered with broom, slabs lead to an open chimney. Move right beneath an overhang to the foot of a short crack. Climb the crack to an oak. Twin cracks lead to the top.
Stirrup Cup 20m VD
Starts 7m to the right of Tally Ho. Scramble to the base of a chimney. Climb the chimney passing over the chock stones to a broad ledge. Continue up the gully to the top.
Main Face 20m A2 VS (5a)
Start at a holly tree a few feet right of Stirrup Cup.
1. 3m 4b. Climb the short wall on the right of the holly tree to a grass ledge.
2. 22m A2 5a. Free climb up and round the corner to gain a line of bolts, in place. Gain’ a ledge and follow a thin bulging crack (4 pegs). Using a peg in a horizontal crack on the left, move left and climb up to a grassy ledge. Move right to belay at an oak.
3. 5m 4a. Climb the crack behind the oak to the moor.
the next buttress, 200m to the right, two routes are recorded, Avalanche Wall and Bonny Face, but these have been obscured due to rock fall and vegetation.
The next climb lays 15m to the right, just to the left of a prominent undercut buttress.
Stout Crack 15m VS 4c
Climb the corner crack throughout.
Scout Crack 15m Severe
Starts 3m right of the last climb in a corner. Climb the crack (strenuous). Continue up a gully via a holly tree.
Slanter 7m Severe
Takes the leaning crack 2m right of the last climb. Climb the crack finishing through a tree.
Vee Chimney 7m Severe
Starts 2m right of Slanter. Climb the obvious chimney and protruding block.
Hagg End Ridge 13m Severe
The ridge at the extreme right of the crag. After an awkward undercut start a series of mantleshelves leads to the short wall beneath the top (belay).
Variation 5m Severe
A variation start can be made by a traverse in from the left along a narrow ledge.