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Alan Dougherty
March 2009
OS Explorer (1:25000) sheet OL 31 North Pennines
Map Reference:
NY926197
Aspect: south
Altitude: 390m
Approach Time: 30 minutes
Situation and Character
Kelton Hill lies in Baldersdale just over 3km, as the crow flies, to the
north-west of Goldsborough Carr, from where it is visible. The problems
described are on good quality Gritstone and the landings are mostly excellent,
which is helpful as some of the top-outs are quite highball. It is a compact
venue offering fine bouldering and an excellent outlook.
History
An initial visit was made by Alan and Carol Dougherty on 20.9.08. Next day
the team was strengthened with the inclusion of Ron and Michael Kenyon, the
latter of whom climbed with ease the harder problems that the older folk could
not manage.
Access and Approaches
Kelton Hill Crag lies on moorland that is designated Access Land under the
Countryside and Rights of Way Act 2000. Under the Act the land can also be
subject to temporary closures of up to twenty-eight days a year. Notification of
closures should be posted at Access Points locally and, prior to a visit, can be
checked on www.countrysideaccess.gov.uk or via the Access Helpline on 0845 100
3298.
Aim for the road running along the north side of Baldersdale: approach directly
from Romaldkirk, via Hunderthwaite or from Cotherstone, crossing under the dam
of Hury Reservoir. Locate the Public Footpath that leaves the road at 915190,
just north of East Carlingill farm. It is possible to park a couple of cars on
the verge near this point – alternatively there is a small car-park at the
road-head 600m further on. Follow the path past the landing strip – one might
want to muse upon the juxtaposition of this feature and land previously
restricted of access for bird conservation reasons – pass through a gate and
head north-east to the corner of the large field. At the corner ignore the stile
carrying the footpath onwards. Instead cross the north-south aligned wall with
care to avoid damage and head east crossing two further walls. Some scruffy
outcrops, which may provide some problems, are passed en-route. Please note that
there is no right of access directly from the Pennine Way.
General Layout
The problems described all lie to the east of the last to be crossed stone
wall. The Subsidiary Block is closest to the wall and situated just uphill of
the two main blocks: Left-hand Block and Right-hand Block, separated by a
chimney feature. The problems are described left to right, facing the outcrop.
The Subsidiary Block
The first two problems both climb a pleasant rippled slab.
1. Slotting in Time
Diff.
Slab left side.
2. Just in Time
Severe
Centre of slab.
3. Time and Again
Severe
Right aręte with
awkward start.
4. Out of Time 5b
Scoop in south wall
5. Time out of Mind
4c
The blunt corner.
Left-hand Block
6. Stairway Easy
The back corner of
west face.
7. Tick Tock 5c
Middle of wall using
obvious slot.
8. Groovy Time 5b
Groove on right of
west wall.
9. Climb in Time
Saves Nine 5b
Arete between west and
south walls.
10. Hard Times 5c
Just to right of aręte
using under-clings.
11. Chocks Away!
(grade mislaid)
Start on ledge –
direct on slaps – serious with ledge below.
12. Bird-strike 5b
From right-hand end of
ledge through alcove to further ledge above. Easier if tall.
13. Crack-on 6a
Directly via tiny
finger holds (? bullet-scars) – high-ball - easier for tall – drifting left
misses the fun and difficulty.
14. Time Torn Man
6a
Side-pull and long
reach to break – further reachy moves to top – high-ball.
15. Pain of Time 6b
Leaning wall on
impressively small holds.
16.Time on Our Side 5c
Use faith and friction
to ascend corner to left of chimney.
17. Dyno Time 6a
STS – left side-pull –
dyno for top.
Right-hand Block
18. Stolen Time 5c
1m right of chimney –
undercut to reach break – awkwardly up head-wall. Green, gritty and scary.
19. September
o’clock 5b
Follows the slight
scoop in the centre of the block; started by a dynamic reach to a sinker jam in
break.
20. Just in Time 5c
Use rib on right-hand
end of block to reach awkward moves on head-wall.
21. Time and Motion
6a
Start as for previous
problem but follow overhanging aręte. Nasty landing – pad block below.
22. Shaking Time 6b
Just left of
right-hand corner of roof – tiny pockets – to a “bit of a dyno to the top” (MK)
23. Time Waits for
No Man 6a/b
Starts low to follows
prow directly on tiny holds.
24. Whale of a Time
5a
Trending slightly
rightwards to an often inelegant finish.
Kelton Hill Crag Mini Guide.
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