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Kepwick

 

O.S. Sheet 100        SE 467905

Aspect                   North West

Altitude                 230m                      

Approach time     10 minutes

 

Situation and Character

This small crag is situated immediately above Kepwick village.

 

History

Neil Thompson and Ian Prestnall added Warble Fly in 1991. All the other routes were recorded prior to 1980.

 

Access and Approaches

From the A19 follow minor roads towards Kepwick village. Take the second white gate after the house “Monument View” and follow the track, through another gate then turn left. Continue to the crest of the hill then turn back right to gain the crag.

 TheWhiteGate-web.jpg (76846 bytes)  Kepwick-from-road-web.jpg (97306 bytes)

The Climbs

The routes are situated on four small buttresses, separated by grass ramps.

 

Kepwick Buttress

 

1. Kepwick Crack   7m   HS 4a

The square corner right of a prominent nose.

Recorded prior to 1980.

 

2. Leg Slip   5m   VS 4b

7m right of Kepwick crack is another nose with a wide crack on its left hand side. Climb the crack moving right at the top.

Recorded prior to 1980.

 

3. Offside   5m   HS 4b

Climb the alcove to the right of the nose.

Recorded prior to 1980.

 

4. Warble Fly   5m   E1 5b

The wall in the bay to the right of Offside. Climb the wall on pockets to a break. Finish up the crack on the right.

Neil Thompson and Ian Prestnall   mid 1991

 

Right-hand Bay

The right hand bay is dominated by a large impressive wall. On the right of this are three cracks and a square corner.

 

5. Sticky Wicket   12m   E1 5b

The left hand crack.

Recorded prior to 1980.

 

6. Maiden Over   12m   VS 4c

Climb the wall to the right of Sticky Wicket and continue up the wide crack on the right-hand side. A sustained pitch.

Recorded prior to 1980.

 

7. Stumped   12m   VS 4c

Another sustained climb. The square corner to the right of Maiden Over is climbed

Recorded prior to 1980.

 

8. Silly Mid On   12m   VS 4c

Climbs the aręte right of the corner and finishes up the wide crack on the right.

Recorded prior to 1980.

 

  

 

Link of the Kepwick Groove from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.

 

 

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