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O.S.
Sheet 100
SE 467905
Aspect
North West
Altitude
230m
Approach
time
10 minutes
Situation and Character
This
small crag is situated immediately above Kepwick village.
History
Neil
Thompson and Ian Prestnall added Warble Fly in 1991. All the other routes were
recorded prior to 1980.
Access and Approaches
From
the A19 follow minor roads towards Kepwick village. Take the second white gate
after the house “Monument View” and follow the track, through another gate
then turn left. Continue to the crest of the hill then turn back right to gain
the crag.
The Climbs
The
routes are situated on four small buttresses, separated by grass ramps.
Kepwick Buttress
1. Kepwick Crack 7m HS 4a
The
square corner right of a prominent nose.
Recorded
prior to 1980.
2. Leg Slip 5m VS 4b
7m
right of Kepwick crack is another nose with a wide crack on its left hand side.
Climb the crack moving right at the top.
Recorded
prior to 1980.
3. Offside 5m HS 4b
Climb
the alcove to the right of the nose.
Recorded
prior to 1980.
4. Warble Fly 5m E1 5b
The
wall in the bay to the right of Offside. Climb the wall on pockets to a break.
Finish up the crack on the right. Neil Thompson and Ian Prestnall mid 1991
Right-hand Bay
The
right hand bay is dominated by a large impressive wall. On the right of this are
three cracks and a square corner. 5. Sticky Wicket 12m E1 5b
The
left hand crack.
Recorded
prior to 1980.
6. Maiden Over 12m VS 4c
Climb
the wall to the right of Sticky Wicket and continue up the wide crack on the
right-hand side. A sustained pitch.
Recorded
prior to 1980.
7. Stumped 12m VS 4c
Another
sustained climb. The square corner to the right of Maiden Over is climbed
Recorded
prior to 1980.
8. Silly Mid On 12m VS 4c
Climbs
the aręte right of the corner and finishes up the wide crack on the right.
Recorded
prior to 1980.
Link of the Kepwick Groove from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.
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