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OS Sheet 88 NZ120482 Aspect West Altitude 160m Approach time 1 minute Rock Type Sandstone
Situation and Character One of the smallest crags in this guide. "It is almost okay" that was my first words on approaching Knitsley. At 6m high the routes can be soloed but the unstable finishes do not encourage this. The low level traverse in broken by an easy slabby area. That said, an odd hours climbing could be had here. The crag is enveloped under a leafy canopy by the trees late summer and early autumn which blocks out the evening sun and can make the atmosphere less pleasant than the spring. The quarried sandstone is generally solid but with some dubious holds and care is important especially at a high level. The crag is disappointing and it is probably true to say that the extra effort of getting to Howns Gill for the longer low level traverses would be rewarded with a better workout that can be obtained here.
History During the mid eighties permission to develop the crag was sort for by Bryan Ion, Robert Sharpe, Simon Telfer, Paul "scotty" Scott and Martin Hunter. Brian Teasdale joined the team a little later. All being members of a local Venture Scout unit of which Graham Telfer was the leader. Most of the routes were originally climbed by everyone without many exceptions. During the earlier days and without access to a car, team team would catch the bus from Chopwell to Consett and carrying all their equipment marched on to develop Knitsley.
Access and Approaches The most accessible climbing in the guide, 45 seconds from the main road.
The Climbs The main wall is like an open book. The left edge is an unattractive dirty corner. In the middle are the central flakes. Just right of the right arête is a small undercut wall that lends itself to endless minor variations. The quarry continues beyond this but the rock quality deteriates. The climbs are described from left to right.
1. Bailey's Route 6a Climb the undercut wall left of the unattractive curving corner. Simon Telfer, Paul Scott
2. Shallow Corner 4c The unattractive curving corner. Stu Ferguson
3. Sting 5a A eliminate following the right arête of the corner, (the left arête of the main wall). Paul Scott, Simon Telfer
The left side of the main wall contains a large corner capped by a horizontal roof at 2m.
4. Adrian's Wall 5b Climb the centre of the left wall and cross the roof, climb the crack above. Simon Telfer, Paul Scott
5. Adrian's Wall Direct 6a From the back of the corner use the dubious flake under the roof to gain the holds 0.5m above the lip. Continue up the wall to the top. Simon Telfer, Paul Scott
6. For Tristan 5b * Gain the break 0.5m above the right-hand end of the roof, hand traverse leftwards to finish up Sting or descend the Adrian's Wall. Simon Telfer, Brian Teasdale
Rob Sharp Can't Climb 6a Climb the wall two meters right of Adrian's Wall, Climb direct to a letterbox, overcome this to a tricky reach for the top 6a. Paul Scott, Simon Telfer
Rock Jock Mickenzie 4b Two meters left of the open book wall. Simon Telfer, Brian Teasdale
7. Central Flakes 4c Climb the shallow corner in centre of the main wall, passing a peg high on the right wall. Stu Ferguson
8. Lady Eleanor Sons 5a Tackles the wall 2m right of the shallow corner. Karl, Graham and Simon Telfer
9. Right Wall Two 5a The wall passing the left edge of the overlaps. Stu Ferguson
10. Smartie 5b Climb directly through the centre of the overlaps. Martin Hunter, Simon Telfer
Return of the Prodigal Son 6b Just right of Smartie climb the the black wall and surmount the overhangs. Brian Teasdale, Simon Telfer
11. Riley's Arête 4c The prominent arête topping out with care.
12. Very Small Bouldering Wall Many variations can be worked out here on rock of reasonable quality.
13. Low Level Traverse 5a There are many variations possible but it is difficult to avoid a hands off rest in the middle.
The Gallery:
Riley's Arête, Bob Bennett
Reversing For Tristan, Steve Crowe
Full details in the North East England Guide
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