Kyloe In

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Kyloe In

Kyloe-In-The-Wood

Map Reference: NU047385

Altitude:154m

Aspect: South Facing

Approach: 15 mins

History

Hidden deep in a forest Kyloe-in-the-Wood was only discovered in the sixties, the earliest recorded route being Zed Climb by Frank Montgomery in 1966. Three years later, in January, the very good lines of Fluted Crack and Crack of Gloom were climbed by Allan Austin with Dave Miller and Dave Roberts respectively. When the 1971 guide was published, however, forty routes were recorded - the efforts of Hugh Banner, John Earl, John Hiron, Geoff Jackson, Dennis Lee, Malcolm Lowerson, Ken McDonald and Jim Patchett. Notable routes climbed during this period were The Elf, The Harp, Thin Hand Special (since mistakenly called Thin Finger Special) and The Crucifix, the latter two routes by Hugh Banner showing local climbers the niceties of jamming technique. Dennis Lee was responsible for writing up and renaming many of the climbs. The 1976 supplement recorded a number of less significant new climbs although Bob Hutchinson and John Earl had added Badfinger, the first of the overhanging fingery routes. Following the 1976 supplement routes fell thick and fast. The Pearler, Entertainer and Red Rum fell to Hutchinson and Earl (Earl leading the first one) while Paul Stewart fell in with Bad Company, later given an independent finish by Earl and Steve Blake bouldered out Elf Direct. Scottish invader, Dave 'Cubby' Cuthbertson raised bouldering standards with the free ascent of Monty Python's Flying Circus, although introducing chalk for the first time on a new route in the county. In 1978 Hutchinson and Earl invited all to High T, a very fine addition to the crag. In the build up to the 1979 guide, Paul Stewart climbed Trouble Shooter whilst Steve Blake claimed the first ascent of Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy. The fine Bobby Dazzler wall was initially developed by Bob Hutchinson and John Earl and completed by Paul Stewart and Bob Smith. It was 1981 before any further routes of significance were added with John Earl digging out Bad News, Bob Smith on the hard stuff with Hard Liquor and Smith, Earl and Ian Kyle completing Jocks and Geordies, the initial crack having been climbed by Dave Cuthbertson and Murray Hamilton. The crag lay fallow until late 1986 when Tim Gallagher terrified himself with a fine lead of High Society - an often eyed line. Bob Smith swiftly responded with the Upper Crust, another fine addition to the High T Wall. Since the last edition of the guide not a lot has been done. At the beginning of the 90's there was some filling in by the locals. The crag has been used mostly for bouldering since then. Few people ever finish at the top of the crag. Leviathan by Malcolm Smith is a route, but a boulder problem, never getting more that 1½ m above the ground until it's finish, even then you can jump off. However, it is included here as it requires an amount of effort matched by only the hardest bolt routes. Arch Rivals was climbed in 2001 by Andrew Earl. That too was basically a boulder problem, but unfortunately you have to finish at the top of the crag, as jumping off would be painful. In 2003 Andrew Earl climbed one of the last great problems of the County with his ascent of The Prow which is very hard and very bold. There is still scope here for new routes, but they will also be very hard and bold.

Situation and Character

This fine crag is hidden away in the centre of the woods and the steep, solid sandstone provides many splendid and enticing lines. The very flora which gives the crag its unique atmosphere, however, does encroach on the finishes of many of the climbs and some cleaning prior to an ascent may be necessary, or even recommended. This is a situation that is getting worse as more people just come here to boulder nowadays. The wooded atmosphere certainly does not detract from the climbing which is usually very technical and can vary from delicate to strenuous. At the time of going to print there has been considerable felling in the vicinity of the crag. This should improve the air circulation around the crag and hopefully improve the condition of the finishes of many of the routes.

Approaches and Access

The crag is reached easily from the A1 5 miles north of Belford. Turn west and follow the B6353 for 2 miles towards Lowick. At the crossroads turn due south and continue past the parking for Kyloe Crag for half a mile where a gated forest road leads into the woods. Cars must be left on the main road. Care should be taken not to obstruct the gate. Follow the forest road for about 500 metres to a junction with a red ‘WS’ sign pointing left. Pass to the right of the sign and follow the track straight on at this point for 300 metres turning right at a vague crossroads with a ‘WS 1’ sign pointing left. The rocks soon appear to the left of the track (about 15 minutes). The woods are privately owned and there is no right of way.

The Climbs

The routes are described from left to right.

Approach Buttress

The first section to be reached is an undercut slab with an overhang at the left side. Beneath the overhang is a short, green slab.

1. Crickhollow Corner D 9m

2. The Balrog 9m MVS 4c

Andrew Birtwistle

3. The Dainty Stair 9m D

4. Treebeard 9m VD

5. Bombadil Slab 9m VD

6. The Shire 9m E2 5c

7. The Green Cleft 9m VD

The once gardened buttress to the right of The Green Cleft has four routes but recent growth has rendered access difficult and the climbs overgrown. Briefly, they are :-

8. Squelchy Wall 9m MVS 4b

9. Impromptu 9m VS 5a

10. Carpet Crack 9m S

11. Lichen Groove 8m S

After a vegetated section is another once gardened slab, which contains the next two routes.

12. Crumbly Crack 8m S

13. Mardale 8m VD

Rivendell Crack Area

14. Rivendell Crack 9m VS 5a *

15. Classic Crimp Traverse V3 6a

Traverse the undercut wall on small sharp holds above the lip with feet beneath the lip but above the ledge. Finish by standing on the ledge on the right.

16. Super Low Level Traverse V3 6a

SS the undercut wall can also be traversed at a super low level along the lip from left to right. Continue around the corner on slopers and pockets.

17. Mordor Front 9m HVS 5a

18. Shelob 9m HVS 5b

19. Tea Break 9m HVS 5b

20. Evendim Corner 9m D

21. Aragorn 9m HS 4c

22. Frodo 9m HS 4c

23. Legolas 9m MVS 4c

24. The Black Rider 10m MVS 4c

25. The Hobbit 9m VD

26. Bilbo 8m S 4b

27. Little Arête 6m D

28. Warm Up Traverse V2 5c

Start at the same point as Rivendale Crack. Climb up and traverse right with feet above lip and continue for 20m to finish at the wide descent gully.

The dirty cleft provides the only way down in the centre of the crag.

Swan Wall – Red Rum Area

The most popular warm up area in the woods.

29. Swan Wall Arête V3 5c

The arête right of the way down.

Paul Stewart

30. Swan Wall 6m MVS 4c

31. Swan Wall Direct Start V2 5c *

Climb straight up the wall 1 metre left of the ordinary start to join the middle of the traverse.

Steve Blake

32. Ostrich Crack 10m VD

33. White Wine V1 5b

The shallow scoop right of the crack leads to flutings.

34. Marmoset VB 4c

3m right of Ostrich Crack, the wall is climbed with the aid of a flake.

35. Pink Gin 12m V4 6b *

Climb 1m left of Red Rum to gain the prominent flake. Either jump off or traverse horizontally right past Elf Direct.

Bill Wayman and Paul Stewart

36. Red Rum 12m V3 6a ***

Start at the groove 2m right of Marmoset and climb up slightly left to gain a prominent flake.

Bob Hutchinson and John Earl 1977

37. BIC V6 6c

The wall above the small cave. Start with left hand on crimp and right hand on press. Proceed on razors!

38. The Elf Direct 10m V2 5c *

The wall 3 metres left of the ordinary start can be climbed, with long reaches, joining The Elf at the end of the overhang.

Steve Blake

39. Elf Arête V3 6a

The rounded arête just right of Elf Direct is climbed on very small holds.

40. Red Rum Traverse V4

Traverse from Swan Wall to Elf Arête with feet near ground level.

41. Pink Gin traverse V5

Traverse from Swan Wall to Elf Arête with hands at about 3m.

The following routes climb out of the large recess.

42. The Elf 12m VS 5a *

43. Bad News 9m E3 6a

John Earl 1981

44. Right Hand Recess Crack 9m VD *

45. The Twitch 7m HS 4c

Bad Company Wall

The wall right of the recess overhangs steeply.

46. Badfinger 9m V2 5c **

Climb directly up the bulging wall 1m right of the arête; the lower section is the most difficult. SS is V4.

Bob Hutchinson and John Earl 1976

47. Not Bad V3 6a

An eliminate up the wall between Bad Finger and Bad Company is climbed mainly on three large pockets.

48. Bad Company 9m V2 5c **

Gain and climb the bottomless flake 1m right of Badfinger. SS is V3.

49. Bad Company Direct Finish 9m E3 5c

Paul Stewart 1977

50. Bad Company Right Hand Finish 10m E4 6a

52. Sex and Brutality 11m E4 6a

Bob Smith, John Earl 1990

53. Bad Company Leap V5 6b

From the right most pocket leap left to gain the flake.

54. Catapult V11

An audacious jump. Climb the wall to the right of Bad Finger and Bad Company via a one finger pocket and a long jump to the break.

Chris Graham on Catapult Font 8a

55. The Monk Life V14 Font 8b+

Malcolm Smith’s long term project has seen repeats by Andrew Earl and John Gaskins..

The Monk Life Font 8b+

56. Monty Python’s Direct SS V7 6b

The classic problem with a powerful sitting start (V5 from standing).

57. Monty Python's Flying Circus 10m V5 6b ***

In the centre of the wall is a small niche, with a crack slanting up to it from the right.

Dave Cuthbertson 1977

58. Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon V8

A popular problem up the wall left of Crack of Doom. The SS is the Hidden Dragon (V9)!

Dan Crammond 2001 Now with a SS by Stu Campbell at V9 5th March 2006

59. Bad Company Traverse V4 6a

From the left arête traverse across the wall on pockets at a height of 2m until forced to drop down onto the lower break. Continue rightwards to a good hold in the niche just right of Monty Pythons. Climbing the initial section much lower down on crimps is V5 6b.

60. Monty Python's Traverse V7 6b

From the niche climb into and up Monty Python’s Direct, then reverse down the crack and continue into the Crack of Gloom.

61. Bad Company-Crack of Gloom V9 6c

Linking the two previous problems together.

61a. Crack of Gloom 10m MVS 4c ***

Allan Austin and Dave Miller January 1969

62. Crack of Gloom variations V2 5c

A number of excellent variations can be worked out on the wall/arête right of Crack of Gloom.

63. Cubby’s Lip V9 6c

Cubby’s testing traverse from Crack of Doom to The Pearler.

Kathi Krause demonstrating Cubby's Lip during her time working for Berghaus in Sunderland. Kathi succeeded in just one day in February 2005!

64. The Pearler V2 5c

3 metres right of Crack of Gloom is a crack which runs halfway up the wall. Climb this to its top and move up the overhanging wall above until it is possible to move left to the arête, which is followed to the top. The SS is V3 6a.

John Earl

65. The Pearler LH V5 6b

Layback the left side of the crack.

66. The Pearler RH V8 6c

Layback the right side of the crack.

67. Woodlark Circuit V3 5b **

Climb the crack of The Pearler to the break, traverse strenuously right along the obvious line to descend Thin Finger Special.

68. Jock’s SS V7 6b

A powerful start to this classic climb (V5 from standing).

Jocks and Geordies: Dave Cuthbertson, Murray Hamilton and Bob Smith, John Earl, Ian Kyle 1985

69. The Yorkshireman V9 6c

Another classic Kyloe test piece.

70. Yorkshireman Sitting V10

The sit start.

71. Thin Hand Special V2 5c ***

8 metres right of Crack of Gloom a thin crack splits the bulging wall. A good test of jamming proficiency. Often mistakenly called Thin Finger Special.

Hugh Banner

72. Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy V7 6c

The flake in the middle of the wall to the right of Thin Hand Special is gained and then climbed with some difficulty by stepping off the block to the right.

Steve Blake 1978

73. Hitchhikers Standing V8 6c

From a standing start off the ground but well left of the block.

74. Hitchhikers SS V9/V10

Once more, this time from a sit start.

The next feature is a pair of short cracks slanting to the left, above which the crag lies back forming a slab and groove.

75. The Rack Direct V9 7a

SS in a low niche behind the boulder. Climb the wall to reach the top of the crack on extremely small sharp holds which will cut your fingers if you are strong enough to hold them.

76. The Rack LH V2 5c

The lower of the two cracks is climbed to the platform.

77. The Rack 13m HS 4c

78. Poor Mans Lothlorian V11

Traverse from the SS of The Pearler to finish up The Yorkshireman.

79. Lothlorian V13

A left to right traverse finishing up The Yorkshireman.

80. Leviathan V14

The classic traverse, from Badfinger to The Rack, and requires the stamina of the hardest bolt routes. There are rules: no jamming in the cracks and no foot ledge below Monty Python's Flying Circus.

Beorn Wall

The green wall which runs from the cave to and arête right of the interrupted crack.

81. Playing Rudies V6 6c

The small bulging wall right of The Rack with some naughty moves.

Pete Kirton

82. Smart Alec V4 6b

Traverse the low lip underneath Playing Rudies. Starting very low and finishing in the groove.

83. Child’s Rhymes V3 6a

Start at the blunt arête 6m right of Playing Rudies to gain a ramp, up this to a break which is followed to the gully.

84. The Slide 13m VD

85. The Duffer 8m MVS 4c

86. Solo Trumpet 9m E1 5b

87. Trumpet Solo 9m HVS 5a

Ian Kyle

88. Beorn 10m VS 5a

89. Hard Liquor 10m E3 5c

Bob Smith 1981

90. Beorn Too Late 10m E1 5b

91. The Flying Scotsman 9m E1 5b

92. The Mallard 9m E1 5b

93. Root Scoop 8m HVS 4c

94. Forest Rib 8m VD

95. Yseut 22m E1 5b

96. Greensleaves 8m S 4b

97. The Missing Link 9m HVS 5b *

Hugh Banner, David Ladkin and Mick Foggin

Harp Area

98. Crella de Vil V5 6b

SS. Use finger pockets just right of the left arête of Stirring up Trouble.

99. Stirring up Trouble V3 6a

SS. The arête left of The Flutings Direct is followed until forced left onto the flake to the right of The Missing Link.

Steve Blake

100. Trouble Shooter 11m E3 6a **

Paul Stewart 1977

101. The Flutings Direct 11m VS 4c **

The wall to the right of The Flutings Direct has also been climbed.

102. Piccolo 12m S **

103. Verticality 12m V0 5a *

The steep wall right of the corner is climbed to the break. Descend the crack to the right.

104. Zed Climb 12m VS 4c **

Frank Montgomery 1966

105. Harp Traverse V2 5c

Start to the right of the diagonal crack. Traverse at 3m and continue around the corner till you get to the right hand arête.

106. Lower Harp Traverse V3 6a

As above but cross the first wall at about 1.5m

107. The Harp 10m VS 5a ***

108. Orpheus 12m E3 5c

The start can be climbed as a boulder problem to the break.

109. The Mite 6m VS 4c

110. The Mitre 6m VS 5a

Nadser Area

Up and around the corner is a bay with a large slab on its right side.

111. The Nadser 5m V6 6c

The wall to the left of the ramp is climbed on quarried holds.

112. Forgotten Wall 8m VB 4c

Climb the wall between the ramp and the chimney in the corner by means of a faint groove. Aptly named.

113. The Hulk 9m E1 5c

114. Green Man 9m VS 4c *

Bob Smith

Not-so-Green 6m HVS 5b

115. Evergreen Corner 9m S 4b

116. Evergreen Wall 9m V0 5b

The wall left of Primitive Crack with a difficult start.

117. Evergreen Arête V3 6a

The sharp arête provides a good problem.

118. In the Extreme V4 6b

The SS to Evergreen Arête.

Bobby Dazzler Area

The crag now forms a superb slab/wall bounded on the left by an obvious crack and giving some testing moves.

119. Primitive Crack 9m MS *

The excellent jamming crack provides very pleasant climbing, and is a useful descent for the following problems.

120. Dingly Dell LH V1 5b

Climb the wall just right of Primitive Crack.

120a. Dingly Dell V2 5c

Climb the wall 1 metre right of Primitive Crack. Trend right to the large horizontal break and finish directly above.

Bob Hutchinson

121. Bobby Dazzler V2 5c **

The fluted wall 4 metres to the right of Primitive Crack is climbed via the left flute with difficult initial moves.

Bob Hutchinson

122. Autowind 11m V3 6a *

Just right of Bobby Dazzler. Climb directly up the wall with occasional use of the right hand flute to handholds on the left edge of the ramp. Finish direct on easier ground.

Paul Stewart 1979

123. Twinkle Toes V5 6b

The wall between Autowind and Robbers Dog.

124. Robber's Dog 11m V2 5c

The wall to the left of the arête of Fluted Crack is climbed direct. Finish easily up the wall above. Using the arête is a steal.

125. Robber's Dog Arête V3 6a

The arête can be climbed on either side.

The wall ends with a large obvious crack.

High T – Crucifix Area

126. The Undercut Traverse V4 6a

Traverse from the corner under the roof to the vertical roof.

127. MacGregor V7 6c

3m right of the corner is a large jug. Climb down from this to some undercuts on the roof. Climb across on these until you reach a large flake and then reach to the undercut at the back of the roof. (Bobs desperate line that palms under the roof?)

128. Tom’s Problem V7 6c

Start at the flake on the lip of the roof, about 5m right of the corner. Use this and the sloper on the left to reach a hole in the break.

129. Tom’s Problem II V3 6a

10m right of the corner are several small holds on the lip of the roof, use these to gain the break.

130. The Crack B4 6c???

Climb the crack to the right with hands in the crack.

131. Crucifix Traverse Low V3 6a

Traverse the vertical wall from left to right and continue beneath the overhanging crack of The Crucifix as far as The Prow.

132. Crucifix Traverse High V3 6a

Same as above but at a higher level.

133. Undercut/Crucifix Traverse V4 6a

Combined traverse.

Many eliminates have also been done on this excellent wall.

134. Fluted Crack 15m S 4b

Allan Austin and Dave Roberts January 1969

135. Piano 15m S 4c *

136. Penny Whistle 12m E2 5c *

Bob Smith 1978

137. The Entertainer 14m E3 5c *

Bob Hutchinson and John Earl 1977

137a. Feanor 15m E6 6b

Start as for The Entertainer but step right and climb the blankest section of wall.

138. Upper Crust 15m E5 6b **

Bob Smith 1986

139. High Society 15m E6 6b **

Tim Gallagher and Tommy Smith 1986

140. High T 15m E3 5c ***

Bob Hutchinson and John Earl 1978

141. The Crucifix 12m HVS 5a ***

Hugh Banner 1970s?

142. Crucifixion 13m E3 5c *

143. The Prow 13m E9 7a ***

Andrew Earl making the first ascent of The Prow

The narrow chimney in the next corner to the right is Hourglass Chimney (S 4b).

144. Pigs and Truffles 11m E3 6a

145. The Gauntlet Traverse V6 6b

Traverse into The Gauntlet from the corner on the left and continue across the Iron Fist wall.

146. The Gauntlet V1 5b ***

The blunt rib with an obvious crack 5 metres right of Hourglass Chimney is difficult to start. Jump off or continue up the wall above. Very good.

Rod Valentine

Machinate

Steve Crowe June 1994

147. The Iron Fist V2 5c

The wall 1m right of The Gauntlet is climbed on small holds to a mantelshelf move onto a rounded ledge. Move left and finish either up (or reverse down) The Gauntlet.

148. Plastic Novelties 10m E1 5b

149. Loam Crack 8m HS 4c

150. Southerner 8m MS

The Arch

This is the cave at the extreme right hand end of the woods. Many eliminates can be enjoyed.

151. Stealth V7

Staying right of the crack with hands and feet. Usually wet.