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KYLOE OUT (COLLAR HEUGH)

OS Landranger Sheet 75                                                            

Map Reference:  NU040395

Altitude: 108m                                                                                         

Aspect: South West Facing

Approach: 10 minutes

History

The crag was probably climbed on in the early part of the century but there is no record of any lines ascended. Visitors also frequented the area in the late 1940's and early 1950's but the first recorded activity was not until the late fifties when the NMC produced a short guide showing sixteen routes, most of which followed the obvious lines. These were largely the products of Eric Clarke, Gil Lewis and Basil Butcher and included the fine Deception Crack and the awkward Trinity. 1957 was a prime year with Devil's Edge by Geoff Oliver accompanied by Derek Walton and Nev Hannaby, the latter also leading the superb flake crack of Tacitation to create one of the crags classic Very Severes. This brief surge in activity was followed by a long lull which lasted throughout the 1960's and although the crag was visited by the NMC and the Border Climbing Club nothing of worth was recorded. The next routes were done in September 1970 by Allan Austin who regularly visited the area with Dave Roberts. The companion routes of Penitent's Walk and the testing Coldstream Corner typified Austin's ability to tackle the harder lines. Around this time, in early 1971, Dave Ladkin also added the excellent Elevator. Hugh Banner had spied the line but was injured with a bad elbow (perhaps an early case of tendonitis) and urged Ladkin to attempt the route before the dynamic duo of Austin and Roberts had the chance to clean up. With the publication of the 1970 guide interest was spurred and Bob Hutchinson who had already made a big impression, jumped a quantum leap in grades by climbing the extremely testing Australia Crack. This remained unrepeated for two years and not surprisingly at its present E3 6b standing. The 1976 New Climbs Supplement stimulated further activity by John Earl, Paul Stewart, Steve Blake and Bob and Tommy Smith. In 1978 some excellent test pieces were found, notably Blake's technical and strenuous Prime Time and the necky Original Sin, which was done with Bob Smith, so named because of the first known use of chalk on a new route in the county by a local. In 1980 Bob Smith discovered The Sabbath and Baptism and went on to celebrate the arrival of his son with the difficult First Born, demonstrating his bold approach and an eye for a good line. Also around this time, Earl and Bob Smith shared leads on Hot Spring and Paternoster. Elder Brother was also added, a very bold and determined statement by Tommy Smith and Tim Gallagher on one of Tom's many returns from retirement. Hugh Harris contributed a number of hard routes, culminating in Seventh Day in 1991. Recent developments have largely been a mopping up process with few completely new lines, the only major advance being Albatross, circa 1995 courtesy of Andrew Earl and Steve Crowe (though the purists may still be looking for the RP to be placed on the lead).

Situation and Character

This superb sandstone crag is located in the north of the region on the flank of the Kyloe Hills. It lies on the northern boundary of Kyloe Wood, about 2 kilometres east of the village of Lowick. Its situation on the side of a small valley with a south westerly aspect and bounded by forest makes it very sheltered and the crags are often in perfect condition on dry winter days. This situation, combined with its beautiful setting, gives pleasant routes as well as some hard technical ones. It consists of a quarried section and a series of isolated buttresses which provide varied climbing in both character and difficulty, offering some of the best routes in the county. Protection is reasonable but as often the case with sandstone, not always trustworthy, even on the easier routes. Particular care should be taken after wet weather when the rock is much weaker.

Approaches and Access

The crag is easily reached from the A1 5 miles north of Belford. Turn west and follow the B6353 for 2 miles towards Lowick. At the crossroads turn due south, continue for half a mile and park beyond a large farm on the left. The approach to the crag is by a farm track, often very muddy in wet weather, which leaves the road at this point. Follow the track until it branches. Take the right fork through a gated field. A well worn path winds up through bracken to the crag. The distance is about 800 metres and takes ten minutes. Please take care not to harm relations with the local farmer which are very cordial at the time of writing. Electric fences should not be climbed and there is no need to deviate from the described approach. Take care when parking not to block the entrance to fields. The approach paths are showing considerable wear and tear and the crag itself is beginning to suffer from erosion, though less marked than Bowden Doors. At least it seems to be spared excessive attention from the dreaded abseiling groups and their mucky boots. Please consider the environment so that others may enjoy it and take your litter home.

The Climbs

The first buttress to be reached after walking uphill on the path is Saints Wall. The quarry routes are described from right to left and are found by turning left at Saint's Wall. The rest of the crag has names allocated to the buttresses and the climbs are described from left to right beginning at Saint's Wall and ending at Twin Cracks Buttress.

The Quarry

Reached by turning left at Saint's Wall on the approach and following a path over a slight rise next to a disintegrating boundary fence into the quarry. The climbs are described from left to right.

1.        Fencepost Corner 13m VD

2.        The Seventh Day 11m E5 6c *

3.        The Sabbath 16m E4 6a **

4.        Original Sin 11m E4 6a ***

Steve Blake

Simon Gee attempting Original Sin E3 6a ***

5.        Tsar Bomba 15m E5 6c

Mark Savage

6.        Baptism 16m E2 5c *

7.        Active Service 8m HVS 5b

8.        Incisor 8m S

The next problem is an excellent low level traverse of the short wall below the easy angled slab/shelf.

9.        Quarry Slab Traverse   V3 6a

The 2m high wall (at ground level) is generally traversed from right - left using small edges below the top. Finish up the left-hand arête, if you make it that far!

Rick Barnes on Quarry Wall Traverse 6a

Many straight ups can be found along this wall. Only a selection of the more satisfying solutions are described here.

10.     LH Arête   V6 6b/c       

SS.  The left side of the arête.

11.     LH Arête Continuation   V6 6b/c               

Continue up below the left edge of the slab (with hands on the left side of the arête). Not for the faint hearted                                

12.     The Fat Lady Sang   V6 6c         

About 1m right of the arête.  Climb up easily to a desperate mantelshelf finish utilising a distinctive undercut/layaway for left-hand.  Muttering “5.10 rubber WILL stick” seems to help avoid a crash landing in the prickly gorse!

13.     Mantle Madness   V2 5c                            

About 2m right of the left-hand arête, where holds on the slab make for a reasonable mantelshelf finish.

14.     New Recruit 6m E2 5c

15.     Canine Wall 15m D

16.     Dogleg 15m E1 5b

17.     Chicken Run 16m  E1 5b

18.     Birds Nest Corner 10m VD

19.     Peewit 10m S

20.     The Faggot 10m E2 6a

21.     Bar Skittles   V7 6c

A traverse of the wall right of the corner, just right of the start of Quarry Slab Traverse.  From the off width crack traverse right to gain the arête via thin twin crack.  The name may give a clue to the essential foot work required.

22.     Devils Edge 10m HVS 5a **

23.     Learning to Fly   V10 7a

The classic jump in the Quarry at Kyloe Out.

Bob Smith on a 1994 attempt on the line that became Expecting to Fly.	Andy Earl demonstrating his new problem to Richie Duffy.	Richie Duffy  Learning to Fly

24.     Back to the Egg 11m E2 5c

25.     Prickly Corner 10m S 5a

26.     Fat Slags 15m E2 5c

Saint's Wall

This is the first buttress to be reached after walking uphill on the path. It consists of a fine slab with a deep cut chimney, Temptation, near the centre. The first routes begin at the base of a crack 6 metres left of Temptation. Some short problems on the wall left of this have been climbed. This fine wall/slab is split in the centre by a deep cut chimney (Temptation).  Although many of the routes on this buttress are regularly soloed, (as well as many of the gaps in between the recorded routes) no bouldering has been specifically recorded here. There are a number of pleasant short problems in the 5b-6a range which gain the first ledge. Shuffle left to easy ground.

27.     Parity 12m HS 4c *

28.     Trinity 12m VS 4c **

29.     Waverly Wafer 14m E2 5c

30.     Temptation 10m M

31.     Threadbare  11m HVS 5a

32.     Pink Socks on Top 11m E1 5b

33.     Saint's Progress 14m S 4b

34.     Holy Mother of Inspiration (Don't Fail Me Now) 12m E2 6a

35.     St. Ivel 12m VS 4c **

36.     Litany 12m MVS 5a *

37.     Saint's Arête 14m HVS 5b

38.     Bede 7m E2 6a

A poor route has been climbed up the right wall to twin cracks, then moving over the roof on the right.

Small Wall

About 10m right of Saint’s Wall and at a slightly higher level is a small concave buttress.

39.     Scoop   V4 6b

The centre of the buttress is climbed on small crimps and layaways, to jugs over the roof.  Pull over leftwards to avoid the gorse.

40.     Arête   V4 6b

SS. climb the right hand arête.

The crag now fades into the hillside and a track runs to the impressive Overhanging Buttress 90 metres to the right.

Overhanging Buttress

The large rounded buttress with a double overhang and split at mid height by a large sloping shelf. The upper tier, can itself be girdled at Very Severe. The first pitches of Coldstream Corner and Penitents Walk have been exchanged to produce more logical lines.

41.     Just Passing 15m MVS 5a      

42.     Easy Traverse 10m D

43.     Cloister Wall 23m HS 4c **

44.     Lost Property 18m HVS 5a *

45.     Hot Spring 18m E3 6a 6a *

46.     Birdlime Crack 8m MS *

47.     The Elevator 10m HVS 5a **

48.     Irresistible Compulsion 10m E3 5c

49.     Coldstream Corner 18m HVS 5a 5a ***

50.     Albatross 8m E6 6c

The wide roof right of the second pitch of Coldstream Corner. (Pre-placed RP on lip of roof). A massive wingspan and unfeasibly large testicles are likely to be of benefit here.

51.     Penitent's Walk 20m HVS 4c 5a *

52.     Paternoster 18m E3 6a 6b

53.     Oxter Wall 13m E1 5b 5b

John Earl soloing Oxter Wall E1 5b

Overhanging Buttress Bouldering

54.     OHB Low Level Traverse   V2 5c

From the left end of the buttress traverse right at a low level where the buttress soon becomes undercut.  Continue at a low level, (two levels are possible here) finish up the extreme right-hand groove.

55.     OHB Roof left-hand   V5 6b

From the back, cross the roof via an undercut crimp past a good flake to small holds on the lip.  Continue on small crimps to the break.

56.     Albatross  (Lower Roof) V7 6b        

The huge roof can be crossed in the centre with a long move from a good flake below the lip to the prominent flake on the headwall.

57.     OHB Roof RH   V3 6a    

The right-hand side of the roof becomes a steep wall.  Either climb direct or move 2m left to finish up the arête.

58.     OHB Fragile Lip Traverse   V3 6a             

A good right-left traverse of the break immediately above the lip of the roof is possible but care must be taken with the creaking flakes!  Start as for OHB Roof RH but continue left to finish at OHB Roof left-hand.

Cheviot Charlie Buttress

The quality of the rock on the short wall set back between Overhanging Buttress and Neb Buttress is not as good but one climb is still worthwhile. Every part of this buttress has been climbed on in years gone by and there is no room for more routes!

59.     Cheviot Charlie 8m E1 5b

60.     Giblets 6m E1 5b

61.     Dirty Bum 6m VS 5a

62.     Pellagra 6m E2 5c

63.     Cheviot Charlie Traverse   V2 5c

Traverse the wall at 2m.

Neb Buttress

A buttress that is rapidly becoming dwarfed by an adjacent conifer. It consists of a broken nose with a wall to its left.

64.     Neb SW   V7 6c

From good holds on the left traverse right around corners and grooves using under clings to finish on the slab.

65.     Burns Offering 10m M

Start 3 metres left of the left arête and climb a wall for 5 metres to a ledge. Walk left and finish up a narrow chimney or, alternatively, climb the wall about 3 metres along the ledge.

66.     Upstarts Downfall 18m VD

67.     Hoglet 10m VD

68.     Conifer Direct 11m S 4b

69.     Ramp and Wall 10m S

70.     Double Decker 10m E1 5b

A vegetated recess separates the next buttress.

Fir Tree Buttress

This buttress is in two tiers and again is masked by a large fir tree.

71.     West Wall Traverse   V3 6a

A good problem spoilt by the large ledge half way up the traverse.  From the toe of the buttress traverse right-left up hill at a low level, without pausing on the good rest ledge in the middle. Continue straight up the wall on crimps and rugosities 1m left of the arête.

72.     FawIty Towers 11m VS 4c

73.     Diminuendo 13m S 4b

74.     Green Greeny   V2 5c

The slabby wall left of the wide crack.

75.     Moment of Glory   V3 6a

The slabby wall right of the wide crack.

76.     The Traverse   V3 5c/6a

A rising left-right traverse links the two cracks and the letterbox on the SE wall.

77.     Not the Traverse   V7 6c

Use a small letter box to climb up the E wall of the buttress.

78.     The Crack   VB 4b

The prominent crack to the right of the Letterbox.

Central Wall

This section contains some of the best climbing on the crag. It consists of a steep wall with some fine and obvious lines and a small overhang which provides some of the most difficult routes at Kyloe. The first route starts at the left end of the steep wall.

79.     Headbanger Direct   V2 5c

The short wall opposite Not The Traverse and the extreme left-hand end of Central Wall.

80.     Headbanger 6m E1 5c  (V2 5c)

The slightly undercut wall provides an awkward problem. Climb it on small rounded holds moving slightly left after 2 metres. Climb straight up after the break.

81.     The Pincer 8m HVS 5b *

82.     Oral Spout 8m E2 6a

83.     Flake Crack 11m S 4b **

84.     Wasted Time 11m E1 5b *

85.     Tacitation 11m VS 5a ***

86.     Central Wall Traverse   V6 6b/c

A rising right-left traverse. Start below the prominent flake of Tacitation, finish up Headbanger Direct.

87.     Prime Time 11m   V7 6b

The overhanging wall provides another classic county highball at V7.

88.     Prime Time SS   V8 6c

SS 1m right of the arête. Use undercut to gain large slot. Move up and right to pinch and layaways then a powerful move to gain a crozzly pocket and flake above.

89.     Antarctica   V5 6b

Follows the central overhanging edge for 4m then jump off!

90.     Australia Crack 13m E3 6b ***

Australia Crack E3 6b ***

92.     Posh Traverse  V7 6c

Start at the left arête. Cross the overhanging wall dynamically on pinches and layaways to finish in the groove on the right (Australia Crack)

93.     Oversight 10m HS 4b

94.     Grave Mask 13m E6 7a

Mark Savage

95.     Holly Tree Arête 10m S

96.     The Glade 10m MVS 4c

97.     Eeny 8m VD

98.     Meeny 8m VD

99.     Miny 8m S

100.  Mo 8m S

Alcove

The crag opens out beyond the alcove, with a large slab capped by an impressive overhang and bounded on the left by a rib (Christmas Tree Arête). The next 4 problems are all variations on a theme, based on a prominent short steep crack at the right edge of the Alcove and just left of the rib.

101.  Christmas Tree Arête Indirect LH    V3 6a

Traverse from left-right to join the original Indirect at the crack, finish up this.  It is also possible to move up 1m left of the crack.

102.  Christmas Tree Arête Indirect   V4 6b

SS. Climb the short steep crack direct.

103.  V6 6b

Climb up between the arête and the wall.

104.  Christmas Tree Arête Indirect RH   V5 6b             

From the blunt arête to the right, traverse left to gain the crack, finish up this.

Space Buttress

The crag now opens out again to a slab bounded by a rib on the left and a large overhang above, Space Buttress. The next climb begins at the base of the rib.

105.  Christmas Tree Arête 13m D **

Direct Finish VS 4c

106.  Gargarin's Groove 13m HVS 5a *

107.  Elder Brother 13m E4 6b **

108.  An Anniversary Waltz 20m E5 6b

Start as for Elder Brother. Traverse under the lip using the First Born friend placement as an undercut. Continue as for First Born over the roof but then continue rightwards to finish up Space Walk.

Steve Crowe

109.  First Born 10m E4 6b ***

Bob Smith

An eliminate has been climbed through the roof right of First Born.

110.  Spacewalk 11m E2 5c *

Simon Gee about to go on a Space Walk

A useful descent gully separates the roofs of Space Buttress and the west facing wall of the next buttress.

Deception Buttress

The first climbs start up the gully.

111.  Deception Traverse   V2 5c

A low level traverse of the west face is probably best tackled climbing uphill, from right to left.

112.  Spirit on Mars 7m MVS 4c

113.  West Wall Groove 8m VS 5a

114.  West Wall 9m HVS 5a

115.  Deception Wall 10m HS 4c *

116.  Deceiver 10m HVS 5b

117.  Deception Crack 10m HS 4b ***

118.  Wilfred Prickles 10m VS 5a **

John Earl

119.  Fakir's Crack 10m VD

120.  Fakir's Groove 10m VD

121.  Fakir's Slab 10m VD

122.  Slab and Groove  13m VS 5a *

Alternative Finish E1 5c

123.  Slab and Wall 13m VS 4c **

124.  Slab and Arête E1 5b 10m

125.  The Adder 30m HS 4c

Twin Cracks Buttress

126.  John's Wall 15m S 4b

127.  Chris's Arête 11m HS 4b *

128.  Twin Cracks 11m S 4b

129.  Twin Cracks Traverse   V3 6a

The ‘true’ low level traverse around the toe of this small buttress is short but not without interest.

Keep below the hollow hold on the arête. Many excellent variations/rules are possible.

FIRST ASCENTS:

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