Climbonline.co.uk

Map Reference: NT897054

History

Linshiels One was developed between September and November in 1973 by Bob Hutchinson, John Earl, Hugh Banner and Ian Cranston the most notable routes being the Mirage led by Hutchinson and The Phantom by Earl. Bob and Tommy Smith added Mercenary in 1973, subsequently straightened by Bob in 1982. Steve Crowe and Karin Magog added a number of lines including A Chance Remark, Misgivings, Offensive and Stealth during the spring of 2000. Chris Graham added a new high ball route which tackles the roof and bulging wall just left of Commando Crack in April 2006.

Situation and Character

This remote but pleasant crag lies in the upper Coquet Valley on the Ministry of Defence Artillery Range. The rock is sound and a number of very good routes on steep rock have been recorded. The crag consists of two buttresses, the left hand Two Tier Buttress and to the right, Pinnacle Buttress.

Approaches and Access

Follow the road west from Alwinton for about 2 miles and park near Linshiels Farm. The track south leads to the crag, after about 1 kilometre. Visits should be restricted to periods when the red flags are not flying. It is advisable to contact the Otterburn Range Control  who will provide information on firing times and when access is permitted. Do not pick up, kick or remove anything from Otterburn Training Area IT COULD KILL. Visit their web site for the most up to date information here. Avoid climbing should Raven’s be nesting. 

Access to Otterburn Training Area. 23% of Northumberland National Park is owned by the Ministry of Defence and used as a military training area. It is the shared aim of the Northumberland National Park and the MoD to encourage as much access to the area as possible. The ranges are open for access until Tue 15th May, which means that Linshiels and South Yardhope are accessible, peregrines permitting. Definitely worth a visit in these super dry conditions. It is essential that the access protocol is adhered to: Phone 01830 520569 to get permission when you are about to go onto the range, you will be given a reference code, write it down. When you leave the ranges, ring the number again and quote the reference. This way they will know that you are off the range and it's safe to resume firing. There are way marked permissive paths you have to use to approach the crags which are kept clear of dangerous ordnance. For future reference, to check if the ranges are going to be open check here or phone 0191 2394201.

New Climbs
 

U X B 6m E2 7a (Font 7c)

Involves some hard, quality moves and an interesting top out above what could be an unexploded bomb!

More info to follow from Chris Graham.
 

The next four routes were all inspected on abseil and had varying degrees of pre practice prior to being led. All the gear was placed on lead with the exception as stated on Misgivings. A fall from the wrong place on any of the routes would result in nasty grounds falls.

Escapee   10m   E3 5c

Start up Captive Crack until it is possible to hand traverse boldly right to gain the toe of the hanging slab. (Crucial rock 1 is difficult to place) pull up to small friend behind the flake. Continue directly up the slab to finish.

Steve Crowe, Karin Magog     18 March 2000   both led

Misgivings   10m   E5 6a

Attack the most overhanging section of the buttress, directly below the slab and above a heinous landing. (A good Rock 2 placed blind protects the first moves). Follow the lip leftwards on good but snappy holds, to a junction with Escapee at the toe of the slab. Continue boldly up the slab to finish. (The second placement, a Rock 1 & Rock 3 was pre placed in a small pocket about 1m above the starting hold before the first ascent)

Steve Crowe, Karin Magog   13 May 2000       

A Chance Remark   12m   E5 6b

Start 2m right of the prow in a shallow scoop. Testing moves lead boldly to a break, which is followed left to a good slot (Friend 1& Camalot 0.75). Reach left to a good pocket, reach up the trend left to gain the toe of the buttress. Finish up this as for Escapee. A bold route.

Steve Crowe, Karin Magog   18 March 2000       

 A Chance Remark Direct   10m   E5 6b

A safer but harder variation of the previous route. From the good slot power up to reach small holds on the edge of the slab trend right to finish with care up the flutings.

Steve Crowe, Karin Magog   13 May 2000       

Sidewinder   4m   VS 4c

The short but perfectly formed crack in the wall right of A Chance Remark is followed to a tricky mantle finish.

Karin Magog   March 2000   on sight solo

PINNACLE BUTTRESS

The impressive buttress 20 metres further right.

Chris Graham also recorded 3 good boulder problems on the short, steep wall just to the left of Pinnacle Buttress:

SS to the left arête - V5
SS to the seam/crack - V3
SS wall to the right of the seam/crack - V7

The latter problem is unlikely to have been climbed before. All the days activities were filmed by Mark Savage for the forthcoming "The County" dvd.
 

Stealth   9m   E3 5c

Tackles the smooth wall, just right of the rib of The Mercenary. Start at two pockets immediately beneath a heather ledge. Make an awkward move to reach the heather ledge as for The Mirage.  Step left and continue directly up the wall on improving holds.

Karin Magog, Steve Crowe   March 2000       

Offensive   9m   VS 5a

The thin crack just right of Private’s Part. Pull straight up to finish just right of a large clump of heather.

Karin Magog   March 2000   on sight solo

FIRST ASCENTS:

GALLERY:

Linshields One

Karin Magog on Escapee E3 5c

Linshields One Photodiagrams 

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