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Map Reference: NU048075

A clean little crag set in a wood one kilometre south east of Lorbottle Hall on the Whittington-Thropton Road. It occupies a sheltered position but faces north and is slow to dry. During a dry spell however it offers worthwhile climbing in the lower grades.

Over 20 climbs have been recorded here by Ken Smith and members of the Wanneys Climbing Club.

Just to the south of Callaly Village a gate leads through a wall to a track running south alongside a small wood. This track traverses the hillside in a south south easterly direction to where a fence and wall join at a sparse wood. The crag sits on the northern edge of this wood. There is a right of access to the crag under CRoW.

The large buttress at the south end provides the best and most sustained routes and the four cracks provide identification features. The routes are described from right to left.

1. Greengage Summer 7m VS 5a 

Starts up the undercut crack to reach good holds on the left edge. Easier climbing leads to the top.

2. The Bullworker 7m MVS 4c 

Climb the deep cleft to the left of the previous route and follow the crack to large finishing holds.

3. Barnstormer 7m VS 5a *

Strenuously climbs the steep crack on the front of the buttress making an awkward move to finish. An excellent, sustained route.

4. Beetle Crusher 7m VS 5a 

The thin crack 3 metres left of Bullworker. Join the crack to a ledge, move right and climb the short slab to the top.

5. The Hustler 9m S  

Climbs the scarred wall some 10 metres left of the previous route. Reach a sharp flake in the centre of the wall and climb easily to a broken ledge. Finish up the twin cracks.

6. Narrow Buttress 9m VD  

At the north end of the crag this pleasant route takes the left edge to a small sloping platform. The top is reached via large holds.

FIRST ASCENTS: