Millstone Rigg, Eggleston Common

Alan Dougherty August 2006

OS Explorer (1:25000) sheet OL 31 North Pennines

OS Map Reference: NY995269

Aspect: west to south-west

Altitude: 450m

Approach Time: 15 minutes

Situation and Character

The bouldering is not actually at Millstone Rigg! This is, however, the nearest topographical feature named on the 1:25000 OS Map. The venue lies above and to the east of the B6278 Barnard Castle to Stanhope road, north of the village of Egglestone. It lies about 800m south, and a little lower, than Millstone Rigg, on an area of moorland managed for grouse shooting. The apparently quick drying rock is of good quality; there is very little lichen; pockets abound; the landings mostly good and the outlook excellent: A very pleasant place to spend an hour or two.

History

Carol and Alan Dougherty developed the problems recorded here during two visits in August and September 2005.

Access and Approaches

Millstone Rigg lies on moorland that is designated Access Land under the Countryside and Rights of Way Act 2000. Under that Act the land can be subject to temporary closures of up to twenty-eight days a year. These are likely to be applied for during the Grouse nesting season. Notification of closures should be posted at Access Points locally and, prior to a visit, can be checked on www.countrysideaccess.gov.uk or via the Access Helpline on  0845 100 3298. Under the CRoW Act, dogs are banned on this moorland.

Leave Eggleston northwards on the B6278 (sign-posted Stanhope). Soon after meeting the unfenced moorland a sheepfold should be seen on the right (east). Parking can be found in a lay-by, on the left, some 100m before the sheepfold. Walk towards the sheepfold and pick up a line of well constructed grouse butts running uphill. As the slope becomes less steep an obvious pinnacle becomes visible to the right. On reaching butt number eight strike south-east towards The Pinnacle, which is only about 150m distant.

General Layout

Although The Pinnacle is of limited interest, it provides a useful reference point and gearing-up spot. Problems are described firstly going right from The Pinnacle and then proceeding leftwards from the same location. Two blocks, separated by a gully, lie behind The Pinnacle and present clean west facing faces, above mostly good landings.

Rightwards from The Pinnacle:

The Left-Hand Block

Problems are described from left to right:

3m 5b* APD

Climb the impeding wall (left of crack) through small overlap. Fingery SDS to awkward mantle-shelf.

2m 5c* APD

Crack-line to left of rib. SDS from two pinches – move left hand to lay-away on tiny edge and lunge for top.

2.5m 5b * APD

Left rib, avoiding crack / flake to left. SDS is fingery and the slightly bulging rib makes the finishing mantle-shelf tricky.

2.5m 4a CLD

Line of scoop, with crack and slightly leaning wall above.

SDS 5a APD Starting from pinch-grip.

2.5m 4a CLD

Right-hand vague rib feature. (SDS 5b APD)

SDS 2m 5b APD

Utilises nubbin of rock at ¾ height

2m 4a CLD

Wall just left of gully

Traverse 9m 4c* CLD

Climb the left-hand rib to gain top surface for hands – traverse rightwards – sustained.

Without the Top 8m 5c* APD

As the name implies, with crux passing the left-hand rib.

Back Wall of Boulder

Problems described left to right:

2.5m Severe CLD

Pleasant left-hand rib.

2m 4a CLD

Centre of slightly concave wall.

2m Severe CLD

Mossy overlap line just left of section of dry-stone wall.

The wall of the block behind can be climbed anywhere at about Severe. (2m CLD)

Right-Hand Block

Problems described left to right:

3m 5c * APD

SDS from under scoop at left-hand end of block. Layaway and single digit hole leads to awkward mantle–shelf.

3m 5a APD

Left-hand, undercut rib. (SDS 5b APD)

Crack in the Middle 3m 5a APD

The name is indicative! (SDS 5b APD)

3m 5b APD

1m right of Crack in the Middle. SDS just left of crack that ends at 1/3 height. Finishes with awkward mantle-shelf onto gently outward sloping top.

3m 4c APD

Right-hand arête, on good holds, from SDS.

8m 6a * APD

Left to right traverse not using the top or ledge at base. Sustained, with crux at end.

The right-hand wall of this block faces the Equinox Block across a gully. It gives a couple of problems at VD / Severe (CLD)

Equinox Block

3m 4c APD

The rear of the left wall of Equinox Block overhangs the gully. Ascend the forward face, with no bridging across the gully, above a horrid landing.

3m 4c (APD)

Climb the wall just right of the overhang and above a low foot pocket.

3m 4c (APD)

Arête, at entrance of gully.

Red Kite 3m 5a (CLD)

Fingery wall 2m right of arête to mantle-shelf finish.

30m right is a small clean block – the largest of the smaller blocks hereabout:

Small Clean Block

2m 5a (APD)

Left-hand arête. SDS to gently outward sloping mantle-shelf.

2m 4c (CLD)

1m right – ascend to ubiquitous mantle-shelf.

2m 4a (CLD)

Centre of wall.

2.5m 4a (CLD)

Just left of the corner formed by two blocks. Ascend edges, avoiding bigger ledges to right.

Leftwards from The Pinnacle:

40m left (north) of The Pinnacle is an obvious flake leaning upslope:

The Leaning Flake

3.5m VD (CLD)

The front gives a pleasant slab with a tricky start.

2m 5b (APD)

The rear overhang gives a short gymnastic problem on good holds.

15m left of The Leaning Flake, and in line with the butts, is a long low block with a slabby front:

THE SLABBY BLOCK

2.5m 4c (CLD)

Ascend slab at its highest, near the right-hand end.

8m 4c * (CLD)

An entertaining left to right traverse not using either the top or the large ledge at base in the second quartile.

30m down-slope, and slightly north, of The Pinnacle is an isolated block which is prominent during the approach. It has a distinct ledge on its northern side:

The Isolated Block

The upslope, slightly impeding face gives three SDS problems:

2m 5b (APD)

The left-hand arête, on small positive holds.

2m 5b (APD)

Middle of the wall, from a pinch-grip for each hand.

2m 5a (APD)

The right-hand arête, avoiding the large ledge low down.