climbing news can be found on these popular sites:
Cleveland Mountaineering Club,
Also check these walls for the latest info:
Climb North East,
Durham Climbing Centre,
Newcastle Climbing Centre,
Sunderland Climbing Centre,
The Editor at this address with your news and pictures.
New Routes on the North York Moors. There has been
a flood of new routes reported over the last few days as the dark nights
have finally arrived and the local activists have decided to write up
their recent activities. Danby Crag has seen a
lot of well publicised attention during the summer months especially
after Franco Cookson claimed E10 for his new line up Beacon Buttress.
Psykovsky's Sequins was quickly repeated by Dave Birkett who thought
E9 was more apropriate but he managed to find some extra protection.
After 15 years of deliberation Richard Waterton decided to lead the
often top roped line at Kepwick to produce a
pot of Gold E8 7a. Tony Marr continues to prospect for unclimbed
across The Moors and with unbowed
enthusiasm at venues such as Ingleby
and at the Wainstones. Some new crags have been
also developed, namely
Kettle Howe and Hillhouse Nab. Steve
Ramsden added Ram-raid E6 6c and Franco Cookson reported Panda
to the Masses E6 6c both at Stoupe Brow.
However the crags and boulders at
Stoupe Brow are on private
land and the landowner is concerned about the increasing use especially
by large parties. Due to the delicate access situation it is recommend
that climbers visit in small groups and try to keep a low profile. Large
groups and abseiling is not allowed unfortunately. Access here is not a
right, large and noisy groups have been asked to leave. If in
doubt contact the BMC. Parking for access to Tranmire
has always been delicate however it has not deterred Martin Witton,
Steven Phelps, Mike Adams. Lee Robinson, Sam Marks and Franco Cookson
all from making many fine additions to this splendid and quiet crag.
(Note: Tranmire is best visited in the spring before the bracken gets
For more details about the latest
Moors activities check the interesting blogs by
Franco Cookson and
Dave Warburton. More detailed North York Moor's bouldering news can
be found on Lee Robinson's
Finally much further north in Northumberland Dan
Varian has added a desperate new problem at Bowden Doors, Dan considers
that The Rail is roughly Font 8B+.
"'The Rail' is the project I did yesterday, it is hands down the best
boulder I've ever climbed" You can keep up to date with Dan's
other recent activities on the
Reported 11th October 2013
Richard Waterton leading Gold E8 7a at Kepwick.
Photo (C) Joe Banner
New Refugi opening at Abella de la Conca in the
spring of 2014. Situated in the village of Abella de la Conca (which
hosts over 200 newly developed routes of all grades) this new refugi is
well located for access to Terradets, Collegats, Col de Nargo and Tres
Ponts. All these areas are covered in
Lleida Climbs by Pete O'Donovan and Dani Andrada. For all the
latest news on developments on the crags surrounding
Abella de la Conca and for progress reports on the
new Abella Refugi you can follow their
facebook page at
www.facebook.com/abellaclimb. Call round in November with some
sandpaper or a paint brush and you can earn a free cup of coffee!
Reported 9th October 2013
Autumn Bouldering Competition
North East in Ferryhill
on Friday 18th October - 5:00pm - 10.00pm
This autumn CNE brings you a fantastic one night event, with a revised
format. Climbers can attempt 25 qualifying problems graded F3a-F7c. The
top 5 male & female competitors will go through to a final of world cup
The problems will be set by British Champion Dave Barrans. The normal
fees will apply on the day with an extra £1 to enter the competition.
The scorecards can be picked up from the desk (which will be used for
Categories: Adult 16+ / Vets 45+ / Under 16
Qualification 5:00pm - 8:00pm
25 problems graded between F3a-F7c. Following the finish of the
qualifications, the scores will be tallied and the category winners will
be decided. However, prizes will be allocated after the finals in one
big send off.
Final - 8:30pm - 9:30pm
The top 5 male and female competitors go through to the finals ready
to test themselves against world cup style problems
Prize Giving and Raffle - 9:30pm - 10:00pm
Overall winners receive prizes.
All competitors who submit a scorecard will be entered into the super
Details about more up and coming
events can be found here.
Summer Boulder Ladder Season come to a close. The
boulder ladder has ended at
North East in Ferryhill
and the scores are in. Congratulations to all the category winners David
Spowart, Alison Monks, Reece Paterson and Sidonie Graham.
The prizes for the podium winners will be allocated tomorrow. In the meantime,
the round 4 raffle winners are as follows:
The Fox Cub Meal for two
- Ian Gate,
Lifestyle Fitness Spennymoor 1
Month Membership - And Emery,
Gladiator Nutrition Supplement Superstore Products
- James Turner, Hangar 18
Alpaca Socks - Jade Prest. Please collect your prizes from reception at
Reported 25th September 2013
Will W Welsh
Under 16 Male
Under 16 Male
Under 16 Male
Under 16 Female
Under 16 Female
Under 16 Female
La Sportiva Event at Sunderland
Climbing Centre. Saturday 21st of September is
definitely a date for the diary with a La Sportiva boot demo, open
competition, bouldering masterclasses by
Leah Crane, and lots of fun challenges and grand prize draw giving
away over £700 worth of prizes on the day! The all day event is
supported by La Sportiva, Petzl and Beal. Tickets are £6 per member and
stocks are limited. The fun begins at 10am...
Crag Lough has recently enjoyed an autumn clean up.
Many thanks to everyone involved in another successful event. "A
massive thank you to everyone who attended. Despite the poor forecast
the turnout was really good and amazingly the weather held out with
essentially no rain on Saturday! Loads of good work was done and another
clutch of routes improved and few more brought back from obscurity. The
weather was great on Sunday with loads of routes getting ticked, some
for what may be the first time in years. Particular thanks go to those
who helped out with the barbecue and breakfast, Liam and Rich for
helping with some of the preparative work and to Rob and the BMC for
supporting the event." Mark Anstiss
Here is a summary of routes that have been cleaned:
Route 2 (all vegetation removed from Chimney, alternative direct start
(almost all vegetation on east side of Hadrianís Buttress removed).
Cleaned by Graeme Armstrong and Pete Forbes
Evasion groove. Cleaned by John Spencer
Cleaned by Adrian Wilson.
Possibility of harder RH variation to Hari Kiri also cleaned.
Cleaned by Bob McAdam, John Wilson and Sarah
Two new independent lines either side of Sinister Corner also cleaned
Cleaned by Mark Anstiss, Dave Chalmers and Pete
Dexterity. Cleaned by Chris Down
Deep Gully (A very useful descent, Mod). Dug out
by Liam Dervey
Cleaned by Richard Alderton
Y Climb. Cleaned By John Doughty.
Possible direct start uncovered by John Vaughan
Gradís Groove. Cleaned by John Vaughan
Neglect. Given a good brushing by John Vaughan
Great Chimney. Cleaned by John Dalrymple
Many Buttresses are now completely clean, with traffic they ought to
stay that way, particularly at the western end of the crag
Photo (C) Steve Crowe
New Routes for Sunderland Wall All the 23m routes
are to be reset by
"Zippy" Pretty during the last week of August 2013. The 23m section
will be closed for stripping on Saturday 24th August and will remain
closed until the new routes have been set. Keep up to date with all
that's happening at The Original Sunderland Wall on their web site:
Reported 20th August 2013
Franco Cookson has finally climbed the "Mono Wall
Project". Danby Crag on the North York Moors has been the scene of
many entertaining exploits over the last five years but Franco has
finally soloed the blank looking wall by an audacious little finger mono
sequence! " I can now die a happy man. 5 years
of Moors development finally came to a head today, as I set out on the
Mono Wall, with only a pair of shorts, a helmet, chalk and some shoes.
Conditions were terrible..." You can read the full account of
the ascent of Psykovsky's Sequins on
Franco's blog here. Franco has proposed an outrageous grade of E10
7a which has caused a bit of a stir on
UK Climbing! In an interview with Ian Parnell at Climb Magazine
Franco had this to say "
wall starts off with three ring finger monos in a row. The feet get
progressively worse... The central crux section is the
hardest boulder problem I've ever climbed, so it was a bit sketchy to
try... The conditions were really bad, so the top bit was just simply
terrifying... " read the full
Climb Magazine interview here.
Psykovsky's Sequins E10 7a
Photo Copyright Jake Hampshire.
Berryhill Crag in Northumberland - No Access on
Saturday 10th August 2013. This is a one off
restriction of climbing at
Berryhill crag due to family circumstances. "We
were climbing at Berryhill and were talking with the Farmer. Their
daughter is getting married on the 10th of August and there will be a
Marquee in one of the fields. As a result there will be no access to
Berryhill on that day for climbers."
reports Tony McMeekin
Reported 22nd July 2013
Sunderland Climbing Centre will be closed on
Monday 22nd July for staff training. Back to
business as usual from Tuesday 23rd July 2013. (Monday - Friday 12pm
Ė 10pm. Saturday & Sunday 10am Ė 6pm)
Reported 21st July 2013
Six Weeks of Unlimited Climbing at ClimbNorthEast.
are offering a unique 6 week special pass which runs from
Monday 22nd July 2013 until Sunday 1st September 2013 and
offers unlimited climbing. Ideal for those who have entered the summer
ladder! (Terms & Conditions: Prices excludes
membership (required to climb as an adult/youth or to supervise a child)
this is an annual fee of £3.50. Adult members can sign in and take
responsibility for 2 children/novice climbers. All children under 14
must be supervised by an adult member. All adults and youths that wish
to climb/supervise, that have no experience, must complete an induction,
call for bookings. Youths must have a registration form
completed and signed by an adult. Prices exclude shoe hire. Unlimited
climbing excludes coaching academy and kids classes.)
The Indian Face (E9) has been repeated by James "Caff"
McHaffie (and Calum Musket... wait and George Ulrich). With the confidence of his recent ascent of
Gribbin Wall Climb (E9 6c) on Clogwyn y Tarw James found himself
contemplating an attempt on Indian Face (E9) up on Cloggy (Clogwyn
Du'r'Arddu). After his epic failed attempt on Masters Wall in the
summer of 2000 where he climbed off route and brushed too close to
death, it is incredible that Caff would contemplate climbing on this
wall again! "At the base a few friends have come up to the
cliff .... Asking the time my gut turns as they say itís 13.20, a mear
40 mins before George arrives I was hoping for 2 hours to decide...
Iíve never been on a climb with so many Ďalmost holdsí for both hands
and feet where it Ďs easy to get it wrong and what could be a 5c move
could become a 6b move." James from his blog. Read the full account
of Caff's ascent in his own words on his blog here:
www.jamesmchaffie.com. Update: Calum Muskett has made the 6th ascent
of The Indian Face followed swiftly by George Ulrich who has just made
the 7th ascent of this classic cloggy challenge and extremely popular
Extreme Rock tick. We will stop reporting ascent after the 10th!
11th July 2013
Its Summer Boulder Ladder Season again. The summer
boulder ladders start soon at all the local walls with
Durham Climbing Centre being first off the
mark with their ladder commencing on Friday 31st May 2013 with a
set of fiendishly technical problems set by James Hunter and Paul
Ogden! The first round at
at Ferryhill starts the following Friday on the 7th June 2013.
The summer boulder ladder at
runs from Friday 21st June until Friday 30th August 2013. Full
details of all the local ladders can be found on our
Sunderland Climbing Centre Summer
Bouldering Series round one comprises of 30 problems over three days, from opening
time on Friday 12th July until the
doors close on Sunday 14th July,
which will be set by the in house team. All scorecards, which cost only
£1, will be entered into a raffle that will be drawn on Sunday
afternoon. See you there?
10th July 2013
Click these images for more information.
Photos © Steve Crowe
Sunderland Wall. The bouldering wall has been
stripped. It will be completely reset and open again for action by
Reported 9th July 2013
Scottish Sports Climbs by the SMC. It has
certainly taken a long time to mature but Scottish Sport Climbing has
finally come of age and the definitive Scottish Sports Climbs by
Scottish Mountaineering Club is out now and selling at £28 from all
the usual climbing guidebook outlets as well as
direct from cordee.
Andy Nisbet coordinated this guide which was edited
jointly by Rab Anderson and Brian Davison and written by 18 authors. So
now we have all the best sports climbing in
Scotland together in one volume covering the Central Belt to Shetland
and Arisaig to Aberdeen. 344 pages to cover over 100 crags and more than
1300 bolted routes (grades range from 3 to 9a) on a huge variety of rock
types using 50 photo diagrams and many excellent action photographs.
Also described (for the first time in print) are Scotland's three dry
tooling crags. Dave Macleod has written a very interesting and personal
reflection on Sports Climbing in Scotland on his
onlineclimbingcoach.blog "The only
negative on offer from Scottish sport climbing is, of course, the midge.
Just remember that the wind direction is as important as the rain when
you look at the forecast. Choose a crag exposed to a breeze on the day,
and youíre sorted." Dave Macleod.
24th May 2013
Ian Taylor on The
Goat Crag, Gruinard. Photo
© Richie Betts
BMC North East Summer Gathering. The June
gathering of climbers in the
BMC North East Area will take place on
Thursday 6 June 2013, starting at 7.30pm, at the
Newcastle Climbing Centre
. Following the successful Crag Lough clean up last year it
is proposed to repeat the event again this year with the BMC providing a
BBQ and Beer! It is also expected that another similar event may be held up at Ravensheugh this
summer if there is enough willing volunteers. As usual this is an open meeting for anyone interested in
climbing to attend and have there say. More details regarding this event
can be found on
the BMC Community website.
18th May 2013
Crag Lough cleanup 2013
Photo © Steve Crowe
Winners! Congratulations to Paul Ogden and Kate
Watson winners of a tense final at the Durham Climbing Centre Spring
Bouldering Competition. The 20 qualifiers were great fun with a good mix
of technical and powerful problems. The final was contested on six
further excellent challenges
, three each for
the male and female. All the boulder problems were
set by Gaz Parry with the help of James Hunter.
Over £60 was raised from
Climbers Against Cancer which DCC will top up to £100.
Full results from
Durham Climbing Centre website soon.
11th May 2013
1st Paul Ogden
2nd Peter Stephenson
3rd Jonah Vinsome
4th Ben Dawson
5th Jens Signer
6th Will Chamberlain
1st Kate Watson
2nd Alison Monks
3rd Karin Magog / Joanne Quinan
5th Mairi Teasdale
Winners Kate Watson and Paul Ogden.
Photos © Steve Crowe
Jordan Buys climbs 9a at Malham. Last week Jordan
Buys made the third ascent of Steve McClures ten year old route
Rainshaddow which had its 9a grade confirmed by Adam Ondra two years
ago. Jordan first tried the route in 2011 and was getting close to
redpointing it in 2012 but the terrible weather thwarted his ambitions.
As the weather improved an injury hampered any further attempts. Jordan
created the crux moves on his board so he could train specifically for
the route even when the crag wasn't in best condition. Keith Sharples
this report on UK Climbing "Jordan's ascent of Rainshadow, the
third after Adam Ondra's second ascent in 2011, is the first repeat of a
Steve McClure F9a by a Brit - a worthy prize and one which a number of
top sport-climbing Brits have been vying for some time now." Jordan
had this to says about his ascent during an interview with Alex
Messenger of the BMC "It is smack bang in the
middle of Malham Cove in Yorkshire. It's about 20-odd metres long and
extends Raindogs, a classic 8a. It is some of the best rock I have ever
climbed on; if any small section of it was a route or boulder problem on
it's own then it would be well sought after! As it is, you get one big
classy beast." You can read the full interview with Jordan on
The BMC website. On his
score card Jordan simply commented "The
best climbing day of my life so far!"
10th May 2013
Enjoying the moment. Jordan Buys just before his belay
asked "What are you jumping on next?"
New Hard Trad Route at Kilnsey by Nik Jennings -
Exodus E8 6c Climb Warlord Direct to the thread then
instead of moving right into the groove/corner of Warlord
continue direct up the bulging face to finish as for Smarter
first ascent by Nik Jennings 10th May 2013.
Nik had this to say on UKB "I've kind of lost perspective on
how hard the first boulder problem is because I've done it so many
times, but a friend did it while I was trying the route and thought it
was Font 7b. If it is Font 7b then the second boulder problem would be
comfortably Font 7c/+ territory, it's much harder than the start. Anyway
I don't know if those numbers and details add up to E8" The full
story can be found here on
Reported 10th May 2013
More Sad News - Bowden Doors. Dan Varian has put
up a few new problems at Bowden Doors recently but has commented on his
Beastmaker Blog that Bowden Doors is becoming a victim of its own
popularity. Dan reflects "Its no crime covering a boulder in chalk,
but leaving it there after you go expecting people to appreciate finding
problems in this state is thoughtless at best." He goes on to say
"...sometimes if its quite glassy sandstone a thin layer of chalk can
help but on the grainy rock at Bowden Doors its a case of the less chalk
the better as it means the rocks pores can bite the skin and even absorb
a bit of sweat." Then on a more positive note Dan continues
"the rest of the county is unaffected pretty much and there are dozens
and dozens of crags on much better rock to pick from, many of which need
traffic to keep them clean, or do it to give Bowden a bit of breathing
space." Read his full article on his
Reported 9th May 2013
Brushing the chalk off Working Class.
Photo © Dan Varian collection
The Infamous Ornithology Tree has Finally Fallen Down. Peak Scar is a superb and
accessible summer evening venue, especially early in the summer before
the trees come into leaf. "Way back one summer evening
in the early 1970's I borrowed the Green North York Moors guide from the
local library and Peak Scar was one of the
first crags I visited. I found the crag easily enough but found it
trickier to suss out the climbs! I sat down on a convenient block below
the first clean wall of steep and imposing limestone looking for the
obvious jutting feature of Pianississimo. After quite some time I began
to realise that I was sat on it! Well a similar feat has befallen
the aged tree on Ornithology"
Steve Crowe. Ornithology, which was graded Severe when the tree
was still there, crossed the huge roof by scrambling up the old tree.
Well the tree has now joined the battleship on the ground at the bottom
of the crag. "The infamous tree on ornithology has fallen down. I
found it rotting on the floor when I went down for a look to see
if the crag was dry recently, what a shame." Sam Marks
Reported 8th May 2013
Matthew Ferrier up the tree on
before its final demise!
The Tree on the ground and
without the tree.
(c) Simon Caldwell
The Editor at this address with any gossip!
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