Home
Articles & Features
News
Events
North East Action
Links
Lost and Found
New Routes
PDFs
Reviews
Shop
Training Tips
Climbing Walls
About Us

 

 

 

News

 

 

Climbing on rocks since 1974 - Climbing online since 2004

Climb online for the latest rock climbing, sport climbing, bouldering and mountaineering news.

 

Other climbing news can be found on these popular sites:

8a.nu,    Bleau.info,   BMC,   Cleveland Mountaineering Club,   jaVu.co.uk,    MCofS,    ScottishClimbs,    supertopo,   NMC,   UKB,    UKC,

 

Please email The Editor here with your news and pictures.

(Recent website updates)

 

 

bullet

Showtime at Kilnsey! Congratulations to Karin Magog who managed to add another 8b tick to her impressive list of achievements moments before the crucial crux pockets started to seep. Showtime is a 30m long and very crimpy power endurance route with three distinct cruxes. Most of this line had been bolted by Craig Smith but it became an abandoned project. Tony Mitchell and Pete Gomersall took up the challenge and Tony reached Craig's top bolt in July 1989 naming the route The Technician. Shortly afterwards Pete added a wild extension and claimed the right to rename the final route Showtime. "I first looked at Showtime with Steve about 12 years ago but couldn't touch some of the hard moves. In fact I wrote it off as being too reachy for me, so decided just to settle for climbing the first half. This didn't have a lower-off at the time, but is now written up as Half-time (a very tough 7c+ or easy 8a). Since then I've climbed all the routes to its left such as Stolen 8b, Bullet 8a+ and Last Action Hero 8a as well as a couple of variations. However, I was still drawn to Showtime. Last year Steve started to look at it again and I was intrigued. Although my main focus last year was clearing off old baggage I did manage to have a few runs up the route to check it out. Basically the route has three distinct crux sections - a very thin fingery start, a burly middle section involving a big move off an obvious flake and near the top a very big move to the final break off a very small undercut and tiny crimp. I bypassed the start and had a good look at the middle and the top. I managed to unlock a different sequence on the middle crux, which although still a big move at least made it possible. However, I still found the last move at the top ridiculously powerful but by going to the sloper instead of the jug I just managed to do it once or twice, but that was enough to offer a glimmer of hope. This summer I decided to have a proper look at the route. I got some good advice on training from Suzan Dudnik, which although I had to drop the campus work early on due to sore elbows and a knackered shoulder, I was able to continue with the core and antagonist work both of which were invaluable. Hazel Findlay gave me some excellent advice on the mental side as I was struggling to commit to the big dynamic moves. The route itself takes a while to dry out so it was mid July before I got stuck into it properly. At first it still seemed miles away but it gradually came together. The move to the top break was a bugger though and I spent 3 days and several red-points dropping this before finally nailing it. Just in the nick of time though as when we went back a couple of days later several crucial holds were wet!". Keith Sharples has interviewed Karin on the Climber Magazine website. Reported 26 August 2015

Karin Magog climbing Showtime 8b at Kilnsey

 

 

 

bullet

Lake District Rock - A Selection of the Very Best Climbs in the Lakes. The Fell and Rock have been publishing rock climbing guides for almost 100 years but this stunning 2015 edition of Lake District Rock by the FRCC is a significantly different beast. It’s 480 full colour A5 pages are crammed with more than 1500 routes spread over 85 crags across the Lake District. You can read about Statement - The Ben Moon Story by Ed Douglas, the latest Eastern Grit by Rockfax and Yorkshire Gritstone Volumne 2 by the Yorkshire Mountaineering Club and all our latest book reviews on our Reviews page. Reported 14 July 2015

Read all our reviews

 

 

bullet

Another North East Climbing Wall Closes. Sunderland Climbing Centre in Southwick has just closed after only three years following this short announcement "Due to the sale of the site, Sunderland Climbing Centre is now closed. We would like to thank all our customers for their support over the last three years and apologies for the short closure notice." This follows the recent closure of Climb North East in Ferryhill. Both walls were modern centres with frequent route setting so the message must be to use your local wall frequently or you may lose it for good.

Sunderland CC in Southwick has just closed after only three years.

Sunderland Climbing Centre in Southwick has closed. Photos © Steve Crowe

 

bullet

Mountaineers help mountain people of Nepal. Over £15,000 bid so far in #BMC4Nepal charity auction. “Keep digging deep and bidding high” British mountaineering legends, top rock climbers and celebrities are raising money for the mountain people of Nepal in a high profile auction on eBay, ending on Sunday 12 July. The #BMC4Nepal auction is being led by the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) with support from the Alpine Club, in partnership with eBay. The fundraising target is £29,029 – the height of Everest in feet. Over £7,500 was raised in the first batch of auction lots which ended on Sunday 5 July. Winning bidders bagged top lots, including two pieces of Everest summit rock (specimen from the highest exposed outcrop in the world at approx. 8840m), collected in 2009 for scientific purposes, which sold for £910. There are 39 auction lots still up for grabs ranging from highly collectable Everest memorabilia, artwork and books to unforgettable day out with big names. Fancy afternoon tea with Michael Palin CBE or a Lakeland fell walk with mountaineers Sir Chris Bonington and Doug Scott CBE? How about a walk/dinner or Land Rover expedience with record breaking British mountaineer Kenton Cool? Bid now for a training session with top rock climbers Shauna Coxsey and Steve McClure or an afternoon rock climbing with former Alpine Club president Mick Fowler. LIVE ON EBAY: Check out the 39 items on eBay! Legendary Everest mountaineers Chris Bonington and Doug Scott, said “We're calling for everyone to get behind this auction. It’s your chance to win some very unique items – including us!”  Proceeds from the auction will go to Community Action Nepal (CAN), providing long-term support to the mountain people of Nepal. CAN is a UK based charity whose aim is to help the mountain people of Nepal through operating medical posts, schools and mountain porter rescue shelters. The charity was founded by Doug Scott CBE, who in 1975 made the first British ascent of Everest. Many of the mountain communities in which CAN’s 40+ projects are based have been devastated or displaced by the earthquake. Read about CAN's response to the earthquake. Reported 8 July 2015

 

 

bullet

Climbing Chalk and Secret Stuff from Friction Labs is Now Available in the UK.  It's a crowded market place so to be known as the best climbers chalk is not going to be easy but Friction Labs believe quality is king and have backed their claim to be the best with some detailed science (and you can read the reports here). Now I have been climbing rocks for over 40 years and I believe that I train hard but my hands sweat on all but the coldest days and I often feel like they are sliding off slopers. So I began my quest to find the best climbing chalk available and that was when I came across the Friction Labs products... Read our Friction Labs review here. Friction labs stockists: Absolute Snow, BananaFingers, The Climbers Shop, The Climbing Works, The Climbing Depot, Climb Newcastle, Cold Mountain Kit, Highball Climbing Centre, Needle Sports, Rock On (Mile End), Rock + Run. Reported 30 June 2015

Friction Labs chalk in action!

Friction Labs chalk in action!

 

bullet

Summer Bouldering Competition Season. ClimbNewcastle is held over five fortnightly sets of 25 problems and it runs until 28th August 2015.  The summer boulder ladder at Durham Climbing Centre is held over four rounds then finishes with a free buffet, raffle and prize giving on Friday 11th September 2015. Eden Rock Bouldering Series comprises of 3 x 1 month rounds in June, July and August plus a final event on Friday 4th September 2015. Full details can be found on our events page.  Reported 24 June 2015

 

 

bullet

Film Night at the Tyneside Cinema on Thursday evening, 9th July 2015. Posing Productions with Newcastle Climbing Centre presents three great films all on one night, The Asgard Project, Autana and The Last Great Climb. Also featuring a Berghaus prize give away on the night. Reported 8 May 2015

 

bullet

Dan Varian takes Two Rest days! The news in Northumberland is that Dan Varian smoothly dispatched his latest project, Star Power (Font 8B/+), up on High Crag in Northumberland. During his rest days Dan took the time to listen to an interesting podcast by  Ben Moon. After his successful ascent Dan had this to say about the difficulty of the problem "Star Power represents a nice break away from the traditional crimpyness and power climbing that much of our 8B and 8B+s in England adhere to, whilst it is still reasonably fingery it is more of a compression and long power test piece being thirteen hard hand and tricky foot moves."  While Star Power ranks with some of his hardest climbs Dan went on to comment "To me it seems harder than Malcolm's Monk Life which is roughly a 7C into a 7C+ move (but sharp so go limiting) but easier than The Rail which felt like it had an 8A+ move on my sequence."  The quality of the climbing is obvious and of course time will tell on the grade. Still full of energy following his smooth ascent Dan also added Second Fiddle (which he graded with more certainty at Font 8A+) which climbs the less steep wall to the left. You can read the full story on the Beastmaker Blog. High Crag is currently on the secret list while development is finalised however a guide to the crag is being produced by Bob Smith and Steve Blake and will be published online by the Northumberland Mountaineering Club soon. Meanwhile during a family trip to Scotland last weekend Dan nipped into Glen Nevis to make a quick ascent of Dave MacLeod's Bear Trap Prow 8A+ on the Pine Alps Boulders and a few things on the Cameron stone. Reported 25 April 2015

Dan Varian on the first ascent of Star Power (Font 8b/+). Photo © Mark Savage

 

bullet

ClimbNewcastle ASBO 2015 The ever popular ASBO 15 will take place at Climbnewcastle on 8th May 2015. Following format of the recent winter bouldering series during the day then topped off with a spectacular final in the evening. It cost nothing to enter just the usual entry fee and £500 is at stake for the male and female ASBO champions. Additional prizes are provided by the main sponser Scarpa. The first 300 entrants will also get a free ASBO 15 tee shirt so it's worth getting there early! For more information on how to take part or spectate at this fantastic event more details here. Don't miss it!  Reported 7 April 2015

   ASBO 15

 

  

 

bullet

Spring Cleaning Time. It's time to tidy up your bookshelves to made space for three brand new climbing guidebooks that have been published already in 2015. Gary Latter has updated Scottish Rock Volume 2 and many useful amendments and additions can be seen. It is worth a close look as it contains enough superb routes for a life time of Highland adventures. North York Moors and East Coast Bouldering by Lee Robinson. Betaguide have published the first dedicated bouldering guide to the whole of the North York Moors and its east coast. Over 2000 problems are clearly described within its 380 glossy pages. Finally Mark Glaister has worked extremely hard at updating Northern Limestone for Rockfax. This latest edition details all the popular limestone sport and trad climbing across Yorkshire, Cumbria and Lancashire. You can read all our latest guidebook reviews on our Reviews page.   Reported 04 January 2015

 

 

You can read all our latest guidebook reviews on our Reviews page

 

bullet

Improved Access to Esklets. Although Esklets is situated on Open Access Land, negotiations have taken place with the land managers to minimise conflicts of usage which have caused issues in the past. The historical approach from Ralph’s Crosses (NZ676020) is very hard going through thick heather and across prime grouse moor. An easier alternative approach has been suggested by the head keeper and is recommended by the BMC. This commences at a green barrier on the left hand side of the road (NZ666045), approximately 1.5 miles from Ralph’s Crosses when heading (NW) towards Westerdale on the unclassified road. There is room to carefully park several cars on the grass verge. Take the very well made “shooters’ road” SSW initially, cutting through the attractive Clough Gill and on to the northern end of Esklets Crag after approximately 2km. The alternative approach from Waites House Farm and along the public right of way, remains available. Reported 27th January 2015

 New improved approach to Esklets                                                             Photo Steve Crowe

 

 

bullet

New Crag on The North York Moors. Throughout 2014 an entirely new crag has been developed overlooking the east coast. The Sumuggler's Terrace comprises of a series of buttresses crowning a large plateau below the Ravenscar Hotel. There are seven buttresses, with the quality of lines vary massively, from poor chossy lines to bullet-hard classics however there are lots of good routes at every grade, with more still to be done. The crag faces east and receives the morning sun only, making it an ideal escape from the heat. It is also protected from westerly winds and can often enjoy a sheltered ‘micro-climate’ when biting westerly’s howl. The crag however dries quickly and the rock is clean despite its ‘lichenous’ appearance. Crack lines and grooves are most susceptible to ‘fern-ing up’. The best time of year to climb appears to be October to May when the bracken is low; however the crag is a true year-round venue. The early development of Sumuggler's Terrace was well publicised and as a result there is a huge list of first ascentionists which includes Chris Woodall who has been climbing first ascents across the North York Moors for over 50 years.  Reported 26th January 2015

Dave Warburton with all the wrong gear run out on the crux of A Plaice Lost in Time E3 5c ***

 
 

 

bullet

North York Moors Bouldering Guide: a weekend with Lee Robinson (aka Betaguides). Guy Van Greuning describes a recent hectic weekend spent bouldering on the North York Moors with Lee Robinson. "During summer this year I planned to spend a weekend with Lee, otherwise known as Betaguides. I've known Lee for as long as I've been climbing and his attitude to climbing made a big impression on me, as I'm sure it has on many others. Lee is just about to finish his long term project of producing a bouldering guide to the North York Moors. I went to speak to Lee about the guide and also to get a taste of a normal weekend for him." Update: the North York Moors and East Coast Bouldering Guide has now been printed and was due to be delivered on a pallet on Wednesday 17th of December. More information regarding the new guide can be found on the Betaguides blog. You can read Steve Crowe's review of this guide here.   Reported 22 December 2014

NYM Bouldering Guide: watch the short preview on vimeo http://vimeo.com/111147021

 

 

bullet

 

     

 

 

 

Please email The Editor at this address with any gossip!

Visit the BMC News page

Climbonline Archived News

Return to the top of the News Page

Return to Home Page