Home
Articles & Features
News
Events
North East Action
Links
Lost and Found
PDFs
Reviews
Shop
Training Tips
Climbing Walls
About Us

 

 

 

News

 

Climbing on rocks since 1974 - Climbing online since 2004

Climb online for the latest rock climbing, sport climbing, bouldering and mountaineering news.

 

Other climbing news can be found on these popular sites:

8a.nu,    Bleau.info,   BMC,   Cleveland Mountaineering Club,   jaVu.co.uk,    MCofS,    ScottishClimbs,    supertopo,   NMC,   UKB,    UKC,

 

Please email The Editor here with your news and pictures.

(Recent website updates)

 

 

bullet

Film Night at the Tyneside Cinema on Thursday evening, 9th July 2015. Posing Productions with Newcastle Climbing Centre presents three great films all on one night, The Asgard Project, Autana and The Last Great Climb. Also featuring a Berghaus prize give away on the night. Reported 8 May 2015

 

bullet

Dan Varian takes Two Rest days! The news in Northumberland is that Dan Varian smoothly dispatched his latest project, Star Power (Font 8B/+), up on High Crag in Northumberland. During his rest days Dan took the time to listen to an interesting podcast by  Ben Moon. After his successful ascent Dan had this to say about the difficulty of the problem "Star Power represents a nice break away from the traditional crimpyness and power climbing that much of our 8B and 8B+s in England adhere to, whilst it is still reasonably fingery it is more of a compression and long power test piece being thirteen hard hand and tricky foot moves."  While Star Power ranks with some of his hardest climbs Dan went on to comment "To me it seems harder than Malcolm's Monk Life which is roughly a 7C into a 7C+ move (but sharp so go limiting) but easier than The Rail which felt like it had an 8A+ move on my sequence."  The quality of the climbing is obvious and of course time will tell on the grade. Still full of energy following his smooth ascent Dan also added Second Fiddle (which he graded with more certainty at Font 8A+) which climbs the less steep wall to the left. You can read the full story on the Beastmaker Blog. High Crag is currently on the secret list while development is finalised however a guide to the crag is being produced by Bob Smith and Steve Blake and will be published online by the Northumberland Mountaineering Club soon. Meanwhile during a family trip to Scotland last weekend Dan nipped into Glen Nevis to make a quick ascent of Dave MacLeod's Bear Trap Prow 8A+ on the Pine Alps Boulders and a few things on the Cameron stone. Reported 25 April 2015

Dan Varian on the first ascent of Star Power (Font 8b/+). Photo © Mark Savage

 

bullet

ClimbNewcastle ASBO 2015 The ever popular ASBO 15 will take place at Climbnewcastle on 8th May 2015. Following format of the recent winter bouldering series during the day then topped off with a spectacular final in the evening. It cost nothing to enter just the usual entry fee and £500 is at stake for the male and female ASBO champions. Additional prizes are provided by the main sponser Scarpa. The first 300 entrants will also get a free ASBO 15 tee shirt so it's worth getting there early! For more information on how to take part or spectate at this fantastic event more details here. Don't miss it!  Reported 7 April 2015

   ASBO 15

 

  

 

bullet

Spring Cleaning Time. It's time to tidy up your bookshelves to made space for three brand new climbing guidebooks that have been published already in 2015. Gary Latter has updated Scottish Rock Volume 2 and many useful amendments and additions can be seen. It is worth a close look as it contains enough superb routes for a life time of Highland adventures. North York Moors and East Coast Bouldering by Lee Robinson. Betaguide have published the first dedicated bouldering guide to the whole of the North York Moors and its east coast. Over 2000 problems are clearly described within its 380 glossy pages. Finally Mark Glaister has worked extremely hard at updating Northern Limestone for Rockfax. This latest edition details all the popular limestone sport and trad climbing across Yorkshire, Cumbria and Lancashire. You can read all our latest guidebook reviews on our Reviews page.   Reported 04 January 2015

 

You can read all our latest guidebook reviews on our Reviews page

 

bullet

Improved Access to Esklets. Although Esklets is situated on Open Access Land, negotiations have taken place with the land managers to minimise conflicts of usage which have caused issues in the past. The historical approach from Ralph’s Crosses (NZ676020) is very hard going through thick heather and across prime grouse moor. An easier alternative approach has been suggested by the head keeper and is recommended by the BMC. This commences at a green barrier on the left hand side of the road (NZ666045), approximately 1.5 miles from Ralph’s Crosses when heading (NW) towards Westerdale on the unclassified road. There is room to carefully park several cars on the grass verge. Take the very well made “shooters’ road” SSW initially, cutting through the attractive Clough Gill and on to the northern end of Esklets Crag after approximately 2km. The alternative approach from Waites House Farm and along the public right of way, remains available. Reported 27th January 2015

 New improved approach to Esklets                                                             Photo Steve Crowe

 

 

bullet

New Crag on The North York Moors. Throughout 2014 an entirely new crag has been developed overlooking the east coast. The Sumuggler's Terrace comprises of a series of buttresses crowning a large plateau below the Ravenscar Hotel. There are seven buttresses, with the quality of lines vary massively, from poor chossy lines to bullet-hard classics however there are lots of good routes at every grade, with more still to be done. The crag faces east and receives the morning sun only, making it an ideal escape from the heat. It is also protected from westerly winds and can often enjoy a sheltered ‘micro-climate’ when biting westerly’s howl. The crag however dries quickly and the rock is clean despite its ‘lichenous’ appearance. Crack lines and grooves are most susceptible to ‘fern-ing up’. The best time of year to climb appears to be October to May when the bracken is low; however the crag is a true year-round venue. The early development of Sumuggler's Terrace was well publicised and as a result there is a huge list of first ascentionists which includes Chris Woodall who has been climbing first ascents across the North York Moors for over 50 years.  Reported 26th January 2015

Dave Warburton with all the wrong gear run out on the crux of A Plaice Lost in Time E3 5c ***

 
 

 

bullet

North York Moors Bouldering Guide: a weekend with Lee Robinson (aka Betaguides). Guy Van Greuning describes a recent hectic weekend spent bouldering on the North York Moors with Lee Robinson. "During summer this year I planned to spend a weekend with Lee, otherwise known as Betaguides. I've known Lee for as long as I've been climbing and his attitude to climbing made a big impression on me, as I'm sure it has on many others. Lee is just about to finish his long term project of producing a bouldering guide to the North York Moors. I went to speak to Lee about the guide and also to get a taste of a normal weekend for him." Update: the North York Moors and East Coast Bouldering Guide has now been printed and was due to be delivered on a pallet on Wednesday 17th of December. More information regarding the new guide can be found on the Betaguides blog. You can read Steve Crowe's review of this guide here.   Reported 22 December 2014

NYM Bouldering Guide: watch the short preview on vimeo http://vimeo.com/111147021

 

 

bullet

The Winter Bouldering Series. The Axis Winter bouldering Series at ClimbNewcastle is held over five rounds and it  runs until 20th March 2015.  The Crankfest continues at Climb North East at Ferryhill, it is over 8 rounds and a Superfinal will be held on friday 27th February 2015. The winter boulder ladder at Durham Climbing Centre finishes with a final on Saturday 15th March 2014.  Sunderland Climbing Centre Berghaus Bouldering Series comprises of 25 problems over 5 rounds, one round per month, culminating with a final round in March 2015. Details of all up and coming events can be found on our events page.  Reported 22 December 2014

 

 

Click these images for the latest results of the winter bouldering competitions.

Photos © Steve Crowe

 

     

 

 

 

Please email The Editor at this address with any gossip!

Visit the BMC News page

Climbonline Archived News

Return to the top of the News Page

Return to Home Page