NORTHERN ENGLAND ROCKFAX Reviewed by Andy Birtwistle

It is generally recognised that the evolution of climbing guides over the last 15 years has been driven by the Rockfax machine. From the first foray with Yorkshire Limestone in 1990 Rockfax guides evolved into “state of the art publications” and a benchmark that set the standard for others. Their innovative approach also went some way to excuse them from the oft leveled criticism that they rely on the hard work and research of unpaid members of established clubs for their material. By re- working  information into a user friendly and attractive way of finding ones way around the crags they kept moving things on. The overall guidebook standard improved and the quality bar was raised. In doing this they also provided a great service to climbers in areas where guides were out of date or out of print. But how far this would go without straining the system too much remained to be seen.

So it was a mixture of curiosity and trepidation that I felt when I opened their latest offering “Northern England”. Curiosity, because even though I have always had reservations about the way they sourced information, I tended to use the Rockfax as well as the definitive guides. In a way they seemed to complement each other and this perceived symbiosis appeared to benefit everyone in the long run. Trepidation because on this occasion, I didn’t know quite what to expect from a guide that tried to do so much and it was also trespassing on some hallowed ground! Read the full Northern England Review here.  Reported 16th April 2008

BMC HEADS TO BELFORD FOR FESTIVAL FUN

The BMC and the Northumbrian Mountaineering Club (NMC) are running an outdoor festival based in the Belford area on the 18-19 April 2008. It will be a fairly informal weekend to which all climbers and walkers are invited to turn up and get involved.  Top climbers such as Andy Earl and Ben Bransby have been roped in to offer advice and bouldering tips out on the crags.  NMC members with local knowledge will be available to lead outings to crags and walks in the vicinity.

Programme of events

Friday 18 April 2008
5.00pm – 8.00pm Bar food available.
8.30pm – 9.30pm Talk by John & Andy Earl on the development of climbing in Northumberland.

Saturday 19 April 2008
9.30am – 4.30pm Climbing/bouldering sessions at Bowden Doors with Ben Bransby & Andy Earl.  Walks around Cheviot/Northumbria coastline with members of the NMC.

BMC AGM 2008 (Saturday) at the Blue Bell Hotel
4.45pm - 5.30pm BMC AGM Registration (compulsory if you wish to vote)
5.30pm - 7.00pm BMC AGM
8.00pm onwards Gala Buffet & Saturday night party

So make a date, tell your mates and plan your club trip.  All of the climbing and hill walking community is welcome  - the more the merrier.  However, only BMC members are able to attend and vote at the BMC AGM.  Join now and make your voice heard.  Visit the BMC website for further details. www.thebmc.co.uk

Chris Graham climbs a spectacular new problem on the Hanging Rock above Old Bewick (aka Hangman's Rock). Jeux sans Frontières (Font 7c) takes the steep right arête of the front face from a sit start. "A desperate sit start leads to a poor seam and pocket on the arête and onto better (but sharp) holds" Chris Graham. Hangman's Rock is situated above Old Bewick. Keep up to date with bouldering in Northumberland at www.northumberlandbouldering.co.uk.  Reported 10th March 2008

Stone Country Press has just published are two bouldering books:

'Stone Play – The Art of Bouldering'

 This is the first collection of bouldering writing and photography ever to have been published. It's a global tour through the history of bouldering, including writing from as early as Oscar Eckenstein and Harold Raeburn, through to the modern era, including Klem Loskot, Jacky Godoffe, Bernd Zangerl and Dave MacLeod.  We have Niall Grimes, John Palmer and Nick Dixon on the Peak; Geoff Dyer on Hampi; Tim Carruthers on Patagonia; Jacky Godoffe on Fontainebleau…. from the 'golden age' of American bouldering we have Pat Ament and John Gill… the list goes on. The book is an elegant landscape format with striking full colour and B&W photography throughout - if you enjoy bouldering, we're sure you'll enjoy this unique book. The book is 160 pages, only 19.95 and can be bought through www.stonecountry.co.uk

'The Stone Country Guide to Bouldering in Scotland'

The new edition of the 'Stone Country' (the 2005 guide to Bouldering in Scotland), this new full-colour edition has been radically updated to include the best bouldering available in the vast geological arena of Scotland. With around 80 established and new venues mapped and researched, this is the bible for any travelling boulderer in Scotland. Nearly 200 pages are crammed with photos, topos and ticklists for this extensive and impressive bouldering landscape. Advance orders can be made online by buying through www.stonecountry.co.uk  Reported 3rd March 2008

Johnny Brundle climbs Off the Rocks. Nick Dixon first led the Off the Rocks (E8) in 1995. The only know repeats before Johnny were by Dave Mcleod and Steve Crowe. A popular instructor at Sunderland Wall, Johnny recently made a ground up ascent of On the Rocks, perhaps the first in that style.   Reported 28th February 2008

Durham Climbing Centre, Bouldering Competition. The first bouldering comp went off exceedingly well with an excellent turn out to enjoy the best set of problems yet! The results reflect how good the problems were as there was none tied in any category. The winners can collect outstanding prizes at reception. Reported 27th February 2008