NOS Boulder Guide
by Luke Hunt
The grid reference for the new boulder by Kildale is 611081. See the North York
Moors western area 1:25000 map.
History
Luke Hunt discovered this boulder on 16th September 2004, after catching a
glimpse of it from Park Nab and recorded all the routes described in the
subsequent week. The boulder has however been climbed on by many parties over
the last 40 years.
Character
The boulder is triangular in shape, with routes on two of the sides. The
Kildale side gently overhangs, while the Wainstones side is vertical. Both these
sides have clean, good quality rock. The third side is much shorter (around
7ft), and is slabby. It is prone to being dirty. With a lot of brushing, a few
easier routes could be had. The problems are all good quality, with an average
height of about 11ft.
Access
No formal access agreement has been made
Directions
Take the right 400yards before Kildale village, just after a blind summit,
towards Park Nab. Follow this road over a cattle grid and up a hill, until the
hill flattens out, about a mile after the Kildale-Stoksley road. Park on the
right, on a grassy verge, 100 yards after the hill flattens out. Climb over the
fence and head down the hill, tending leftwards, until the boulder comes into
sight, after about 100 yards. It is well hidden!
|
Problem |
Description |
Grade |
|
Boulevard of Broken dreams- A strenuous anti-clockwise traverse of the Nos. Start 1m left of ‘B’, with both hands in a slanting sausage shaped sloper, at the extreme left-hand end of a ramp. Follow this to a series of poor horizontal cracks. Follow these to the prow, move round this on undercuts, and have a rest round the corner in the big crack. Traverse more easily to the moor side, and the start. |
6a |
|
|
B |
Mantle awkwardly onto the shelf using the thin crack and a rightward layback. Then use slopers above to finish |
5c |
|
C |
Climb the wall using crimps, then cracks, then slopers, finishing left |
5b |
|
D |
From the waist height hole, climb the wall using a good flake for the left hand. Go straight up for a scary finish on slopers. |
6a |
|
E |
Start at the eye level circular jug. Climb the wall right of the faint rib, tending right |
5c |
|
F |
Climb the prow, topping out on the left. |
5c |
|
G |
1m right of the prow. Using the wide crack and jug to the left, reach high for a good sloper and rock onto it |
5c |
|
H |
Climb the scoop |
5b |
|
I |
The centre of the wall is easier than it looks |
5b |
|
J |
The aręte on the left hand side. Can be dirty |
5a |