Old Stell Crag (AKA The Jumble)
Map Reference
NZ 029984
Altitude 400m
South Facing
From Pott Buttress head South-East and traverse the plateau for 300m until
another collection of rocks appears. On the South side of the jumble is a small
valley with a slab on the left.
History
Climbed on in the nineties by Bob Smith and Chris Graham but not recorded in the first edition of the Northumberland Bouldering Guide. The addition of some newer, and harder, problems by Chris Graham has made this a worthwhile summer venue.
1. VB
The left arête
2. V2
The centre of the wall
3. VB
The crackline
4. VB
The right arête
On the opposite side of the valley:
5. In the Jumble V4
The highest part of the slab is scary.
6. The Mighty Jumble V6
The excellent clean cut slab to the right is also high and dangerous.
Traverse left at the break to escape.
(Chris Graham c2000) Note may not have been so hard – might have just been
scared!)
Further right is a high wall:
7. Top Hat V6
The excellent left arête.
(Chris Graham c2000)
It is not known whether the wall or arête to the right have been climbed at any
point.
The wall to the right is probably too high for bouldering, with the possible
exception of the leftmost line to a fluting which was not climbed.
The section below has several possibilities but requires significant cleaning.
The following were also climbed high on the right end of the jumble, and judging
by carvings on the right end some have been climbed before (1771?)
8. V2
SS. The wall left of the arête.
9. V4
SS. Good arête, dirty finish.
10. V2
The wall to the R with a mantle onto the ledge.
11. V4
The blunt arête on rugosities.
12. S Crack VB
The off width.
13. VB
The rightward trending fingercrack.
14. SD 1771 V2
The wall to the right.
15. Dirty V3
The dirty right arête.
Demons Bloc
Following the plateau round to the south back past the above problems, leads
towards Dulcinea. On the way several other possibilities are passed. The only
one I’ve climbed is a cracked wall:
16. Demons V5
SS. Follow the pleasant cracked wall exiting left.
Mini Fontainebleau
Traversing the plateau round leads to Dulcinea:
17. Dulcinea V7
From a SS in a slot., link the cracks on the right hand side of the buttress
with laybacking and clever footwork to a dynamic move for the break. Continue up
the wall above to top out carefully.
Chris Graham, March
2003 possible done by Bob Smith 1995?
18. Steep Wall V5
The wall 10m left of Dulcinea is followed close to its arête.
On the top of this buttress, slightly to the left, lies a bulging boulder with
slopers reminiscent of Fontainebleau:
19. La Proue V6
The Font-esque boulder on top of the buttress from a SS, slap up the bulge.
Stand on the top and enjoy the view (it’s better than Font!)
Chris Graham, March 2003.
Hueco Wall
Continuing round the plateau towards the pool wall/pott buttress is another
collection of boulders; the best climbing lies on a pocketed wall.
20. Hueco Wall LH V4
SS left side of the wall.
21. Hueco Wall RH V4
SS right side of the wall.
Continuing round the plateau leads to more rock
with interesting but few problems, until the pool wall comes into view again.