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OS Sheet 92 Map Reference NGR096020 Aspect South West Altitude 300m Approach time 20 minutes
Situation and Character
Orgate Scar is about half a mile long and has a fine
open aspect. Certainly not the 'major crag;' hinted
at in the Stu Wilson guide, but the best of the Swaledale crags that we've
tried, and just as good as many of the other low grade Yorkshire Dales limestone
crags. Visitors to the crag need to be wary of the grades of climbs as
access difficulties have hindered systematic checks. Some
feedback is highlighted in red below. Stakes have been installed at the
top of the crag.
Details of this crag was previously recorded in North of England Rock Climbs by Stewart Wilson.
HistoryThe first recorded climb was Impede by Ernie Shield, J. Tomlinson and M. Martin and was mentioned in the Cleveland M.C journal of 1964. In 1970 Robin Gay added Feather Light Flakes whilst Gossamer groove was the work of J. Hancock, Paul lngham and Tony McLean in 1971. Nothing much happened until 1973 when D. Hume, M. Moseley and Glenn Bennett climbed Chockstone Chimney and whilst not a good climb, it led on to further developments by the same team. Paz was climbed on New Years day 1974 by Bennett and K. Shackleton. In 1975, Tony McLean climbed Evil Knievel and there were further developments in the same year by two newcomers, Dave Knight and Pete Ramsdale notably Snooky William. 1976 started well with Dave Knight adding Boston Dangler whilst Bennett climbed the fine corner of Andrex Ferrari. Tib Wall was top-roped and later led by Dave Knight who also added Julia Dream and Sniff. The story seems to end here due to long-standing access problems. It is hoped that this pleasant place will again be accessible to climbers.
Access and ApproachesThe landowner has requested that climbers approach the crag via the bridleway from Cordilliaras Lane. The crag is approached from Marske by following the minor road in a N.E. direction uphill onto Marske Moor. After crossing a cattle grid, the road is followed for a further three-quarters of a mile until a bridleway leaves the road (Cordilleras Lane) on the left-hand (West) side. Follow this bridleway, heading south when the bridleway descends towards Marske Beck and can approach the top of the scar. If asked to leave, do so quietly and report the matter to the BMC locally. The first drystone wall you get to when approaching from the left of the crag is quite open, well left of the woods, with a lot of scree around. This is the wall immediately right of route 42. The next drystone wall is on the edge of the woods, and is the wall between routes 31 and 32. Tib Wall is the obvious clean tower to the right of the wall. Keep going until the trees clear slightly, below an area of solid looking rock, the lines of Feather Light Flake and Chockstone Chimney are obvious on the left of the open area. This section can be approached from the top of the crag but the descent isn't obvious on a first visit. Check the BMC Regional Access Database for the latest access situation.
Please keep to the path. Photo Simon Caldwell
The ClimbsThese are described from right to left. A pinnacle, Moomintroll Pinnacle is a feature of the right-hand end of the crag and further right is a wall descending the fell and barring access to Limekiln Wood. Hume’s Gully to the right of the Pinnacle provides a descent at the right-hand end of the crag whilst a chimney next to Gone For A Beagle is the descent from climbs on the Central Area. At the left end of the crag are several gullies providing useful descents.
The right hand side of the crag can be climbed on but NOT between 31st July - 1st February. Please check the BMC regional Access Database for the latest access situation. Only routes 32 (Snooky William) to 42 (December 1963) are in Open Access Land.
Pinnacle Area
This is the wall behind Moomintroll Pinnacle.
1. Fait Accompli 18m S Traverse the wall behind the pinnacle, starting up the left wall of Hume’s Gully. Follow the horizontal break to a tree and ascend the dirty groove above Chossalot.
2. Boilerman 8m S Climb a loose corner 9m left of Hume’s Gully.
3. Chossalot 8m S Climb the dirt groove left of Boilerman.
4. Blue Funnel 10m S A good climb up the chimney in the corner, right of the Ivy-covered wall.
Moomintroll PinnacleThe pinnacle at the right-hand end of the crag.
5. MjolInir 6m S Climb the centre of the face nearest the crag. Loose at top.
6. Paz 12m VD From the base of the pinnacle ascend a short corner on the left and mantelshelf at 3m before climbing the left face via an obvious crack at the top.
Glenn
Bennett and K. Shackleton. New Years day 1974 7. Nine Point Rose Divot and Crown 12m S Start as for Paz. Climb the corner then move right up the aręte.
8. Hunt of the Giant Mameluke 12m VS 4b Start as for Paz. Climb the corner to the mantelshelf then move right and climb the face direct via a sharp-edged flake. Finish above a rounded mantelshelf.
Descend from the pinnacle via the right-hand face to a large ledge.
The Central AreaThis is the area between the large, Ivy-covered wall just left of Moomintroll Pinnacle and a stone wall which comes up to the crag at its midpoint. At the top of a scree shoot at the right-hand end of this section is a descent chimney culling through the crag at its lowest point.
9. Stairway To Hell 12m VD Start halfway up the scree shoot. Climb onto a ledge at 2m then move up a similar distance to another ledge. Traverse left and up the wall to the top.
The next climbs are to the left of the descent chimney.
10. Moribundus 30m VS 4b A traverse. Climb the left aręte of the descent chimney to footholds on the lower horizontal break. Traverse left to the chimney of Yo-Yo then pull out left and Hand-traverse the wall of Evil Knievel to a good ledge around the aręte. Move down and left and finish up the Z-crack of Impede.
11. Gone for a Beagle 5m S Climb the thin, vertical crack just left of the descent chimney.
12. Jam
Jar 5m S Climb the obvious crack 6m left of the descent chimney.
13. Big Dipper 8m S Climb the thin crack just left of Jam Jar.
At the left-hand end of this wall is a chimney; Yo-Yo.
14.
Jack the Gripper 9m VD Follow the obvious crackline 3m right of Yo-Yo, trending right up the ramp near the top.
15. Grip the Jacker 9m VS 4c Start as for Jack The Gripper. Ascend the wall direct.
16. Yo-Yo 9m VD This good climb follows the chimney at the left end of the wall. The start is the hardest. It is best to stay on the outside of the chimney, venturing deeper leads to poor rock.
Yo-Yo Photo: Simon Calwell
17. Evil Knievel 14m
VS 5a Start below a bulging crack, 3m left of Yo-Yo. Climb the crack and scoop to a flake. Finish left round the aręte or over the overhang above. This is more sustained and loose.
Tony
McLean 1975
Evil Knievel Photo: Simon Calwell
In a bay to the left, is a wide crack behind a fallen block.
18.
Impede 20m S 4
Climb the wide crack into a cave.
Traverse left and monkey past a tree to finish up the crack and easy chimney
above.
Impede Photo: Simon Calwell
19.
Andrex Ferrari 17m VS 4c Climb the crack and groove in the corner to the left of Impede. Glenn Bennett 1976
20. Leaning Meanie 18m HVS 5a Climb the crack in the wall left of Andrex Ferrari to a mantelshelf at 6m. Step right into the corner and climb this to a ledge before moving back left into the middle of the face. Climb the face trending right to the top.
21. Seacliffe Enchantress 18m VS 4a Climb the aręte left of Andrex Ferrari. A bulge near the top is loose and hard to protect.
22. Chockstone Chimney 17m Climb the obvious chockstone chimney to the left. Pass the chock stone on the inside or the outside (harder).
D.
Hume, M. Moseley and Glenn Bennett
1973
23. Feather Light Flakes 17m
MVS 4b A very good route but take care with loose rock at the top. Start beneath a triangular pedestal 2m left of Chockstone Chimney. Gain the pedestal by a series of mantelshelves and a flake crack. Ascend twin cracks to a loose finish. Robin Gay 1970
Feather Light Flakes Photo: Simon Calwell
24. Gossamer Groove 18m VS 4c
Start at a small tree at the base of the
crag left of the aręte to the left of Feather Light Flakes. Move up left until
a mantelshelf leads to a bulging flake, which is followed to a groove and a
loose finish. Another good route with some loose rock at
the top but recent activity has cleared a lot of it.
Gossamer Groove Photo: Simon Calwell
25. Owake 18m
VS
Climb the second corner left of Gossamer
Groove, which has a tree at its base. It is a fight to get
past the tree, the chimney crack To the left of Owake, the path rises to a crest above which there is a crack in the face:
26. Boston Dangler 11m VS 4c Climb the crack in the face behind the tree. Jam to the slight bulge and finish strenuously above.
Dave
Knight
1976
27. Q.C. 14m VS 4b Start beneath a smooth wall left of an obvious chimney. Climb the wall past a mantelshelf at 4m. Move right into the chimney and follow it until the left face can be regained and followed on loose rock.
27a. Mistaken Identity 14m S 3c
The obvious chimney right of
Q.C. Climbed thinking it was Chockstone Chimney! Loose and poorly protected. 28. Snooky Two 14m S Climb the crack to the left of a pillar left of Q.C. Step right and climb direct to finish.
To the right of the drystone wall which runs up to the crag, is a smooth wall; Tib Wall.
29. Rainbow Blues 12m S Climb the tower to the right of Tib Wall moving onto a ledge on the left aręte at half-height. Move right and up to finish.
30. Julia Dream 12m VS 4a Climb the wall just left of the aręte of Rainbow Blues.
Dave
Knight
1976
31. Tib Wall 17m HVS 5a Climb the smooth face right of the drystone wall via mantelshelves. Gaining the overhang is the crux. Unprotected.
Dave
Knight 1976 Top roped prior to being led.
Only the following routes 32 (Snooky William) to 42 (December 1963) are in Open Access Land.
32.
Snooky William 15m VS 4c Start just left of the wall. Climb the thin crack to a ledge and beyond to another ledge. The crack is followed through a bulging wall to just below the top. Traverse left around a block to finish.
Dave
Knight and Pete Ramsdale 1975
33. Woodstock 13m S Start below a crack in the right wall of the second corner left of the drystone wall. Climb the crack and move left below the overhang and into the corner, which is followed to the top.
34. Jaycee 9m VD Climb the obvious gully of the second corner and finish on the right wall. A series of gullies breach the crag and provide descents.
35. Snufkin 5m S Climb the centre of the left-hand wall of the right-hand gully.
36. Sniff 8m VS 4b Climb the wall to the left of Snufkin.
Dave
Knight 1976
37. Desperado 8m VD Start below a groove in the right wall of the second descent gully. Climb the groove, finishing left of a crack containing a tree. Loose blocks!
There are three crack systems up the front of the buttress to the left of the second descent gully.
38. Chalkless Chimney 8m VD Climb the chimney containing two cracks and finish up the right-hand crack.
39. Linda’s Core 8m VD Climb the central crack.
40. Pe De Rools OK 8m VD Climb the left-hand chimney, which is just right of the third descent gully. This chimney contains two cracks and the right one provides the finish.
41. Snoopy and the Red Baron 9m S Start below the buttress between the third and fourth descent gullies. Climb the crack 2m right of the aręte to a halfway ledge. Follow the right-hand crack over a bulge to the top.
42. December 1963 6m VD Start below the buttress left of the drystone wall at the left end of the crag. Climb the wall direct.
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