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Map Reference: NY755677

Situation and Character

Peel Crag is a long outcrop that runs west for 800 metres from the big gap in the escarpment which separates this crag from Crag Lough. The Roman wall follows the line of its crest. Buttresses of clean, compact rock are interspersed with broken, overgrown areas that predominate towards the eastern end of the crag. As with Crag Lough the rock is the quartz dolerite of the Whin Sill. It is hard and smooth and weathers along vertical and horizontal planes to give it its typical block-like appearance. In the main the rock is sound, providing steep exposed climbs, the majority of which are in the Severe/Very Severe grades.

Approaches and Access

Turn right off the Military road (B6318) at the crossroads near the Once Brewed National Park Information Centre, 35 miles west of Newcastle. Follow the road for about half a mile to the Steel Rigg car park at the top of the hill from where the crag is clearly visible. The National Trust charge for parking at Steel Rigg, it's worth it for the situation alone! An annual pass for this car park and all the other Trust car parks on the wall can be obtained from Housesteads or the National Park centre at Once Brewed. The public footpath leads south to the Roman Wall, which is followed to the foot of the crag in about ten minutes. This land is National Trust property and camping is not permitted but rights of way from both directions are secure.

Peel Crag has not been mapped as CRoW access land.  It is, though, on National Trust land and so will be shown as open country on the new Explorer map.  Access rights and arrangements remain as they are at present.

Approaching Sunset Buttress at Peel Crag you walk past two rock buttresses immediately adjacent to the path. For some reason, the first buttress has remained unrecorded in previous editions of the guide despite the obvious central crack. The crack is regularly climbed, possibly in mistake for Ribstone Crack, which is actually located on the wall above the grass slope to the left. However two other lines were, as far as we are aware, previously unclimbed, despite being very obvious.

During work for the current NMC guide, Chris Davis and Rick Barnes climbed the slab and wall to the left of the central crack to give a pleasant VS. On a return visit Chris led the blunt arête to the right of the crack, crossing an easy section followed by the sharp V-groove and steep wall to finish.

So the routes on the very first buttress are now recorded as follows:

Phoebus Maximus HVS 5b *
Climb the blunt arête to the right of the central crack using the horizontal breaks to reach the large ledge. Cross some easy ground before following the V-groove and the steep wall direct to finish.
Chris Davis, Graham Reed, Rick Barnes 13/08/03 We have given it HVS 5b but it is protected by some very small wires and cams, if you didn't have these you might think the first section high in the grade.

Route 1 VD*

The obvious and oft' climbed but previously unnamed crack in the centre of the buttress.

Clear As Crystal VS 5a
Start as for the central crack (Route 1) but move left to the base of the right facing corner. Climb the slab to a large hold on the right, move left, mantleshelf onto the ledge and climb the arête to finish.
Rick Barnes, Chris Davis both led & Graham Reed



Sunset must be one of the best severe climbs in Northumberland. Crag Lough is near by and can easily be combined with a visit here.

FIRST ASCENTS:

Gallery:

Peel Crag

Read more about Crag Lough and Peel Crag in Climber March 2005

Peel Crag Photodiagram

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