Pott
Buttress
NZ 027985
Altitude 415m
West Facing
Situation and Character
Situated on the highest part of Simonside, this attractive cluster of
buttresses and boulders give surprisingly sheltered climbing unless the wind is
blowing directly onto them. On a sunny summer’s day they make a perfect picnic
venue. A good number of easy problems and scrambles provide family entertainment
and have been left to the imagination. The rock is quite sound and tends to be
very quick drying. They are well worth the long walk in.
Approach
From the top of Simonside North Face head due east for about 300m.
Alternatively, from the main forest road a faint path heads up the hillside
almost directly to the crag. This path leaves where the road turns west on first
reaching open moorland from the valley. Just below the top, another path crosses
at right angles. Follow this to the right, contouring round below a series of
low buttresses until you reach a deep, black, pool. This group of rocks, called
the south buttress in the definitive guide, have a number of named routes above
and to the left of the pool The problems start from a rock shelf immediately
above the water, on a rock with the word ‘pott’ carved into it.
History
Climbed on in the
nineties by Bob Smith and many others. The North West area was not recorded in the
first edition of the Northumberland Bouldering Guide.
Potts North West Area
50m to the north, where the direct approach path meets the plateau, is a
collection of small buttresses.
1. North Wall V1
Climb the wall just left of North West Aręte.
2. North Western Aręte V3
SS. The aręte direct.
3. Wall V0
Climb the wall just right of North West Aręte.
4. Aręte VB
Climb the aręte.
5. Wall VB
Climb the wall
6. Aręte V1
Climb the undercut aręte.
7. Wall VB
Climb the wall
8. Wall V1
Climb the wall.
Potts Buttress
9. Potts Scoop V2
Scoop 2m to the left of the crack.
10. V2
Left aręte of the wide central crack.
11. Return of the Spring V9
The right aręte of the wide central crack is climbed via a dynamic move in a
precarious position. SS in a pocket. V10
12. Oversprung V8
The centre of the wall. Pull on using shallow pockets and launch for the
bread-bun.
There is also a nice problem in a small opening behind the pool wall from a sit
start that I assume is Hidden Wall.
13. Bob’s V6
3m right of the crack, go straight up the wall on ‘bread buns’ and finger
pockets to make a difficult mantle onto the ledge.
Around the corner to the right, on the back of the same buttress, are two
further problems.
14. V1
Climb the wall starting on rugosities.
15. V1
Large flakes lead to the top.
16. Bold Slab V2
Boldly up the left edge of the slab.
17. Steep Wall V2
Climb the steep wall trending right to left.
18. The Face VB
The front face of the central buttress can be climbed in a number of places.
19. Hidden Wall V1
Gain the large sloper and mantle up to the top.
SS is V2.
20. Rounded Aręte V0
A rounded aręte on the boulder at the back of the recess should be climbed
with care.
To the right is an easy angled slab, beyond this is a fluted wall.
21. Left Flute V0
Climb the small left flute.
22. Right Flute V1
Layback the right side of the right flute.
23. V1
The wall to the right of the flutings.