Map Reference: NU224145
A small sheltered crag in the woods at Ratcheugh. Permission must be sought before climbing here.
The crag is completely obscured by trees during the summer, and is at its best in the spring when the afternoon sun can get to the rock. From the north end of the A1 Alnwick bypass take the Denwick exit and turn right where the road swings left just after the village. The folly on top of the crag is clearly visible. Turn right after one and a half miles and park at the entrance to the wood. A path leads directly up to the crag from the gate. Permission to climb should be sought from the tenant of the folly.
The climbs are described from right to left.
1. Delicado 10m S 4b
The large slab 5 metres right of a massive rotten tree stump is climbed via the
left edge on small holds. At the steepening, step right to a horizontal break
and finish via a mantelshelf. A good route.
The direct line up the wall gives a serious but artificial problem (5b) while
the right hand edge can be climbed at Mild Severe.
2. Flying Mac 8m MS
Climb broken cracks on the left side of the slab to a V groove. Either follow
the crack to finish or step right and climb the steeper wall.
3. Flash Harry 10m S
4b
Up the short, awkward wall immediately left of the rotten stump. Climb the slab
near its left edge until it steepens. Move right and finish directly up the
wall.
4. Ash Tree Slabs 6m
VD
Three lines are possible on the slab set back and a little higher than the
previous buttress. The best starts below a spindly tree growing out of the slab
and climbs to the obvious thin crackline which is followed to the top.
The next main buttress has an overhung arête on the left side.
5. Girlfriend in a
Coma 10m E5 6a
Start to the right of the lowest point of the face and climb the wall direct on
sloping holds.
6. Adam's Folly 10m S
*
Start to the right of the orange slab at the lowest point of the face. Move to a
ledge at 3 metres and step left to the arête which is followed to the top.
7. Rabbits' Way 10m VD
10 metres left of the last route is a small slab with an obvious V groove at the
base. Pull up on small holds to the right of the groove to a ledge, step left
and finish directly up the wall above.
8. Narrow Buttress
Direct 10m HVS 5a **
Probably the best climb on the crag, it takes the front of the pinnacle on small
holds. Protection can be arranged to the sides.
The next worthwhile area is some distance to the left past an overgrown section
of the crag. A large boulder with an undercut base sits next to a wall that
appears to be made of stacked blocks.
9. Veterans Way 10m VD
*
Climb to the crack in the middle of the wall and finish direct. A good route.
10. Kidology 8m HS 4b
The narrow wall to the left is climbed by a series of increasingly delicate
mantelshelf moves.
11. Austerity 8m VS 4c
12 metres left is a narrow buttress with three small overhangs towards the top
gives:
Climb the front of the buttress direct using small fingerholds. Interesting
12. Flibbertigibbet 6m
HS 4b *
The thin crackline in the wall between Muscleman and Austerity gives an
interesting problem. The crack is difficult to start but holds improve at the
overhang.
13. Muscleman 6m VS 4c
The obvious bow-shaped crack gives a very strenuous route. Pull out of
the crack to the left or right, both are hard, and finish up the wall above.
A long way left through dense undergrowth and past many pleasant, short routes
is a buttress with a distinctive smooth orange corner and a small niche towards
the top.
14. Senapod Corner 6m
S 4b *
The obvious corner provides an entertaining climb.
15. Itchypaw 6m S 4b
The wall to the left provides a pleasant route if climbed direct, stepping off
to avoid the bulge reduces the grade to Difficult.
The obvious broken buttress with a large overhang gives three lines, two of
which are straightforward while the central one gives a strenuous problem.
16. Sorbandyguts 6m VS
4c **
Climb the slanting crack and take the overhang direct to a ledge. Finish
directly up the rib via a delicate mantelshelf move. An excellent route.
FIRST ASCENTS:
|
Adam’s Folly |
probably P Biven |
|
|
1954/55 |
|
Delicado |
P Biven |
|
|
1954/55 |
|
Flippertygibbert |
probably P Biven |
|
|
1954/55 |
|
Girlfriend in a Coma |
Hayden Rouse, Andrew Pedley |
30 |
May |
1990 |
|
Muscle Man |
probably P Biven |
|
|
1954/55 |
|
Narrow Buttress Direct |
probably P Biven |
|
|
1954/55 |
|
Senapod Corner |
probably P Biven |
|
|
1954/55 |
|
Sorbandyguts |
probably P Biven |
|
|
1954/55 |
|
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Northumberland Climbing Guide The definitive guide to climbing routes in Northumberland. Updates available from the NMC here.
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The Northumberland Bouldering Guide The Second Edition of the guide was written and produced by the people who developed the area. Updates available from the NMC here.
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