Map Reference: NU070323
Situated to the west and below Bowden Doors this outcrop is usually much quieter and can be more sheltered on windy days. The climbs are shorter, up to 4m and apart from the first few sandy problems the the rock quality on the main crag and beyond is excellent.
This interesting crag lies in front of the south end of Bowden Doors and deserves more attention as there are some fine routes. It is reached by walking over the moor from Bowden Doors.The most prominent feature of the crag is a blunt, undercut prow with a bottomless crack in its left side. The first route described starts furrther round to the right at the end of the undercut section.
1. Ravens Crack 6m D
The wide flake crack.
2. Sand Lizard 8m E3 6a
Pull powerfully over the roof into the wide crack, step right and finish more
delicately up the slabby bulge.
3. Orang Utang 8m VS 5a **
Starts 4 metres further left. Climb to a break in the overhang and surmount
this, moving left to a good hold. Move directly to the top.
4. Bottomless Crack 8m HVS 5b ***
A brilliant route. Start directly beneath the overhanging prow and climb the
strenuous wall, trending left to gain the undercut crack which is followed to
the top.
5. Flake Crack 6m VS 5a
2 metres left of the previous route. The flake crack is gained by strenuous
moves up the wall and is followed to the top.
6. The Pink Cone 6m VS 5a
3 metres left of the previous route. The pink, conical slab gives a delicate
climb.
7. Poxywall 10m VS 4c
The longest, but not the best route on the crag. Start 3 metres left of The Pink
Cone. Stand on a boulder and pull strenuously up the wall. Continue easily to
the top.
8. Strain a Vein 8m E3 6b *
The obvious flutes at the end of the crag. Step left and climb the flutes via
three small flakes, then up to better flakes to finish.
New Problems:
Ian Fitzpatrick climbed a problem up the pockets and shallow water worn scoop on
the steep slab left of the Ravens Crag traverse, which he thought was about V8
6c.
Meadow Wall area.
Brians Problem 6a
Tackles 27 (Slab Arête) on the left side of the arête to pull round onto the slab at the top
Crawlspace 6a/b
has the same sitting start as for Brian's Problem but moves left into a
sidepull pocket and up on edges to finish on the flutings right of the bulge as
for problem 28 (Mind Games).
Andy Cowley. 29th
August 2004
Throes of Rejection 6b
Starts approx 1 metre right of problem 29 (Dead Tree Crack). Start on a
rounded blobby hold moving up into 2 slopping edges then a long reach left to a
small pocketed flake. Establish yourself on the wall and make a long reach to a
poor rail/break. Poor holds above gives you access to the top.
Andy Cowley. 29th
August 2004
Andy Cowley climbing his own Throes of Rejection 6b Photo: Cowley Collection
New Routes:
1A Sand Lizard
8m
E3 6a
Start left of Raven's Crack and pull powerfully over the roof into the wide crack, step right and finish more delicately up the slabby bulge.
Steve Crowe, Karin Magog 10th
May 1998
FIRST ASCENTS (the routes):
| Sand Lizard | Steve Crowe, Karin Magog | 1998 | ||
| Strain a Vein | Bob Smith | |||
| Close Encounters | Steve Blake | 1978 | ||
| Curly | Tommy Smith | |||
| Larry | Tommy Smith | |||
| Mo | Bob Smith | |||
| Raven Mad | Andy Moss | 1987 |
Gallery:
Raven Crag, Bowden Doors
Paul Linfoot on Main Crag Traverse
Meadow Wall, Raven Crag Bowden Doors
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The definitive guide to climbing routes in Northumberland. Updates available from the NMC here.
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The first guide to bouldering in Northumberland. Updates available from the NMC here. |
For more information about this crag visit the NMC website.