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Raven's Scar

Photo Dave Warburton

 

OS Sheet: 93

Map Reference: NZ566037     

Aspect: North Facing

Altitude: 390m

Approach Time: 20 minutes

Mini Guide: Raven's Scar Mini Guide (PDF)

 

Situation and Character        

Situated high on the north side of Hasty Bank with commanding views over the Vale of Cleveland, Raven’s Scar is one of the area’s finest sandstone outcrops. The crag’s northerly aspect and dark foreboding appearance are misleading, as the climbs are generally clean and enjoyable. The best time to visit is from late spring onwards when the crag loses its mantle of green, and it is particularly good on a fine summer's evening when it catches the sun.  Allow two days after rain for the rocks to dry. The climbs generally follow steep natural lines, usually well protected and often strenuous. Climbers looking for quality, middle and upper grade routes will not be disappointed, as some are "classics" comparable with any in the country.

 

History

The first climbers to report their visit to Raven's Scar were CE and D Burrow and party in 1912-13.   CS and TH Tilly were also there in 1932; unfortunately there are no records of this early exploration. Raven's Scar then seems to have been neglected until 1954 and 1955, when members of the Cleveland Mountaineering Club made a concentrated effort to develop the crag. The first climbs in 1954 were the work of Richard Whardell who eventually unearthed and climbed Tumble Down Dick, Dirty Dick, and Sunshine Slab. This paved the way for Alan Chester to ascend the impressive Waterslide, and John Hickman to climb the tough Ahab. A number of other routes were climbed at this time, but as few records exist it has not been possible to attribute ascents to individuals. In the latter part of the 1950s Terry Sullivan was very productive adding several excellent climbs including, the classic Forest Face with Vic Tosh, and the following year the bold Harlot’s Groove with Johnny Clark and Alan Linford.  Artificial aid climbing was popular throughout Britain in the 1950s as it was considered a basic skill needed for summer holidays in the Alps and Dolomites. One of the leading exponents of aid climbing in North Yorkshire at this time was Terry Sullivan, who accompanied by several partners produced several popular routes including Satchmo, Stardust and the brilliant Ella. It is worth mentioning that aid climbing was widely practised during the winter months, usually in appalling weather conditions, cold, wet and often snowing. All the climbs were filthy, filled with dirt and grass and there was no attempt to climb these routes free at that time.     

 

Other routes were climbed with aid but the subsequent change in attitudes and improved protection techniques led to those routes being attempted free.  Of particular note, were Tony Marr's first free ascent of Satchmo in 1970, followed by John Redhead and Chris Shorter's free ascent of Ella in 1977, to produce the classic test piece Stratagem.  About the same time John Redhead and Chris Shorter also added the technical Screwed and the superb Fever Pitch. Paul Ingham filled a few gaps by free climbing Pencil Line and adding the testing Hooker in the same day.

 

More recently Francis (Monty) Montague has produced routes including the bold Monty’s Variant and the sensational Ch-Ching. The ever-keen Tony Marr with Mike Tooke, Frank Fitzgerald and Pete Shawcross filled a few gaps with routes including Rough and Tumble, Terminal Entry and Dirt Devil during 1996.

 

Access and Approaches

Approach as for the Wainstones from the car park near the summit of Clay Bank, 2 miles south of Great Broughton on the B1257 Stokesley to Helmsley road. Leave the car park, walk along the road towards Helmsley and from its right hand side gain the forestry track up the flank of Hasty Bank.  The track soon turns from south back to northwest and eventually west as it levels out above the forestry plantations.  Pass beneath the large but broken crag of Landslip and follow the track as it dips gently down through trees to emerge at the access stile below the impressive rocks of Raven’s Scar.

Note: - The crags of the Wainstones and Broughton Bank are only a further 5 minutes walk enabling all these outcrops to be easily visited in a single day.

 

The Climbs

The climbs on the main crag are described from left to right when facing the crag.

 

1. Evening Wall   11m   HS 4b

Start 3m from the extreme end of the crag at a cleft chimney. Climb the right wall of the cleft to a ledge; move up and left to finish up the obvious slanting crack in the wall.

Variation finish: 4a

From the ledge, escape up and around the nose of the buttress using a good hold and rock over move.

Route and variant, Tony Marr, Paul Ingham  22nd May 1979.

 

2. Thrasher   11m   VS 4c

Start 3m right of Evening Wall. Climb over the roof into a niche on good holds. Gain the ledge and finish up a slabby groove.

Geoff Fixter, Eric Marr 1961.

 

3. Suede Shoe Shuffle   11m   HVS 5c

A little right of Thrasher is a shallow corner in the overhang. Climb this “problematically” to the ledge and continue in a direct line up the blunt buttress.

Chris Shorter, solo and wearing “Hush Puppies”. Summer 1978.

 

4. En Passant   11m   S 4a   *

The prominent corner and hanging groove direct. Well worth doing.

Cleveland MC 1954/5.

 

5. Afterthought   11m   HVS 5a

Trend left up the centre of the slab to finish up the middle of the left wall.

Paul Ingham, Tony Marr, Ken Jackson   10th June 1979.

 

6. Lazy Bones   11m   HS 4b   *

Climb the corner at the right side of the slab into the main groove up which the climb finishes. The climbing is much better than it looks, requiring some unusual techniques!

Terry Sullivan and party.  1955.

 

7. Grooves-ology   11m   VS 5a   **

Start for Lazy Bones but gain the ledge on the right. The layback cracks above provide the exit. Good climbing.

FA   Vic Tosh, John King.  Winter 1961 (3 pegs for aid). 

FFA Tony Marr, Bob Lodge June 1965. The first of the crag’s aid climbs to succumb to a free ascent.

 

8. Stardust   12m   E1 5b   *

A flake crack leads to the ledge shared with Grooves-ology. Climb the right-hand peg-scarred crack to the top.

FA   Terry Sullivan, Vic Tosh. Winter 1957. (4 pegs for aid).

FFA Bob Hutchinson, John Earl May 1977.  

A fortuitous visit by this strong Newcastle team allowed them to snatch this plum. Only days later the “local” team of Alan Taylor, Ken Jackson and Tony Marr re-climbed the route thinking they had made the first free ascent.

 

9. Screwed   13m   E4 6b

Start just right of Stardust at a shallow corner. Climb the shallow corner, move right, and then climb directly up the wall to the break. Step up left then right onto a higher ledge. Pull over the bulge then trend left (protection in Stardust) to finish up the overhanging arête above. Bold and poorly protected.

John Redhead, Chris Shorter, Summer 1978.

Incorrectly named Screwy in previous guides. An aid climb called “Screwy” climbed the wall further to the right using “curtain hooks” for aid, all removed.

F.A Roy Burrows, Mike Stellings 1963. 

Variation Start: Slightly harder than the normal start. Climb the wall right of the normal start using a pocket to gain the higher ledge.

Paul Ingham, Tony Marr, Ian Dunn 1980.

 

10. Screwed (Right-Hand Finish)   14m   E3 6a

From the higher ledge pull up and trend rightwards to finish up the final few feet of Satchmo.

Paul Ingham, Nick Dixon, Ian Dunn (all led), and at the “blunt” end Tony Marr.  1980.

       

11. Satchmo   15m   E2 5c   ***

Climb the impressive overhanging corner throughout. This well protected route is a classic test piece.

F.A Terry Sullivan. 18th November 1956. This was the first of Sullivan’s many new route names combining his passion for Jazz and climbing. Asked about his ascent Sullivan recalls,” it required 6 pegs, I etrier, 4 slings and 6 karabiners. My belayers, Bill Dell and Malcolm Duncan didn’t follow on this occasion as they were both numb with cold in the freezing weather, and darkness was approaching fast. The climb had taken several hours in atrocious conditions”.

FFA Tony Marr (second declined to follow) 6th June 1970. “Chris Woodall and I had whittled down the aid to two jammed nuts in the final corner in 1969. The following year I returned with my brother Eric. I was feeling fitter and stronger, and the whole route went with remarkable ease, I couldn’t understand why we hadn’t done it previously”.

 

11a. A Different Kind of Blue 16m E7 6c
Climb the beginning crux of Satchmo beore breaking right to arrive at the large central break/ledge of the buttress. Having arranged protection from the ledge, climb the steep hanging flake left of the arête with a hard move to gain a line of horizontal slots. Follow these rightwards to an impressive position and a large flat hold on the arête. From here, span right to vague side-pulls and gain a sloping shelf beneath a tiny roof. Good holds at the top of the Stratagem crack system can now be reached, finish as for that route.
Steve Ramsden 22nd April 2010  (More info http://ram-man-selfindulgentdrivel.blogspot.com/)

 

12. Ch-Ching   16m   E6/7 6c

Start at the lowest point of the great leaning arête. Levitate up the arête with a hard move to reach a good ledge. Continue more easily until below the final impressive unclimbed section. Step right and finish up Stratagem. Powerful climbing throughout.

Francis Montague “Monty”, Martin Parker, Martin Trenholm   14th. June 1996.

 

13. Stratagem   13m   E5 6b   ***

Impressive as an aid route but now even more impressive as a free climb. Unrelenting throughout. Pull over the bulge and climb a thin crack to ledges (thread). Watch out for nesting Fulmars! Continue up the impending headwall via the crack (peg runner) to a thought-provoking finish.

FA Terry Sullivan, Neville Colligan.  Spring 1961.  (6 pegs for aid). Originally named “Ella” by Sullivan, maintaining his theme and passion for Jazz.

FFA John Redhead, Chris Shorter, Summer 1977 after three previous attempts.

John and Chris were travelling up from Hull very determined to make their fourth visit successful.

Unfortunately their journey was fraught by delays in heavy holiday traffic, at one point John got so frustrated that he got out of his van and bellowed at the tourists sitting in their cars “Get out of the way, we’re off to make history.” Obviously a man confident of his destiny.   

 

13a. Collateral 14m E7 6c **

A steep wall just right of the start of Stratagem gains easy ledges and a position below a large roof. Cross the roof at its widest point to emerge just right of the arete. Boldly climb the hanging blunt arete/prow to a shallow left-facing groove and, thankfully, an easier top out.

Steve Ramsden 22nd April 2010

 

14. Apache Roof    13m   E3 5c

Start just right of Stratagem and climb the overhanging wall direct to an overhung ledge. Follow the crack over the roof and finish up the slab. Contrived but with some hard moves and poor protection.

Nick Dixon, Graham Buckley 1981

 

Some interesting problems and circuits can be performed on the overhanging wall at the start of Stratagem and Apache Roof which tends to stay dry in bad weather. The most popular problem is the low-level traverse/circuit from Stratagem to the gully on the right and back at 5c. The present record of twenty-four circuits will be hard to beat!

 

15. Sunshine Slab   10m   VD   *

Climb over jammed blocks in the gully and follow ledges left to finish up a slabby corner. Enjoyable.

Richard Whardell 1954

 

15A. Sunstroke   10m   MS
Start as for Sunshine Slab (15). Climb the jammed blocks into the gully. Exit up the flake crack in the left wall avoiding the damp in the back of the gully.
Tony Marr, Mike Tooke  23/06/10

 

16. Sunny Delight   8m   E1 5b.

Start as for Sunshine Slab to the ledge then continue up the smooth arête. Bold and poorly protected.

Tony Marr (solo) 5th June 1979

Climbed by mistake, thinking it was the elusive” Chalky’s Route”.

 

16a. Sunny Delight-Variation Start 5m HS 4b
From the foot of the gully take the ramp leading to the large ledge on the left (junction with Apache Roof). Climb the steep wall on the right (a long reach helps) to the good ledge, step right and finish up the normal route.
Tony Marr, Mike Tooke 04/07/10. (Difficult to grade because its reach dependant, could be 5a)
 

The gully can be ascended in its entirety at HVD but it is unfortunately often wet and dirty and not recommended.

 

17. Little Gem   8m   HVS 5a

Start at the foot of the gully. Climb the flake crack just right of the jammed blocks in the gully to the overhung ledge. The hanging finger crack provides a sporting finish.
Tony Marr, Mike Tooke 24th July 1994.

 

17a. Micro Crack 10m HVS 5b
Follow Little Gem to the overhung ledge [Little Gem takes the finger crack above]. Move left for about 2m to a thinner crack. Climb this crack/wall on its left to a difficult exit. Delicate.
Tony Marr, Mike Tooke 04/07/10

 

17A.  Flight of Fancy   10m   HS 4b
Start just left of Too Young To Fly (18). Climb the arête on its left side to the large ledge (awkward). Cross the grass ledge into the alcove and escape up the corner crack.
Tony Marr, Mike Tooke   23/06/10
 

18. Too Young To Fly   10m   HVS 5a   *

Start just right of the gully at the arête. Climb the arête on its right side using “kangaroo” technique to the ledge. Finish up the slab using a crack (harder than it looks).

Chris Shorter, John Redhead Easter 1977. Also known as Chalky’s Route ’Chalky’ was one of  Chris Shorter’s nicknames at that time . 

Too Young to Fly – Direct Finish 5c*
Follow the normal route to the good ledge beneath the final knife edge arête. Climb the arête on its right side. (The first moves/getting established on the arête are thin….and probably height dependent!)
Tony Marr 19the June 2013 the second did not follow. Note: The final arête is barely 4m tall but without protection until after the crux. A slip from the arête would be serious! I protected myself using a bit of “jiggery pokery” …. same as used by Ben Bransby on Runnel Trilogy [41], at Brimham ….if its ok for super stars then its ok for me!
 

19. Loose Ends   10m   VS 5c   *   Correction to [19] Loose Ends: Grade should be E2  5c not VS 5c

Start for previous route but traverse immediately right (feet in horizontal break) for 3m to a slot. Climb straight up to join a shallow corner and edge. There are a choice of finishes or an option to walk off.

Tony Marr (solo) 3rd May 1985.

               

20. Rock Bottom    13m   E3 6b   *

Above the hand traverse of Ahab is a horizontal “pea pod”. Gain the pod from the hand traverse, pull up and reach the next break and, if you are lucky, continue to the ledge. The final short wall succumbs with the aid of a protruding ledge.

Chris Shorter, John Redhead, alternate leads in two pitches. Summer 1977.  

 

21. Ahab   12m   HS 4b   **

Hand traverse into the corner, pull up and climb to a ledge and final corner crack. A superb route with a strenuous start but good climbing throughout.

John Hickman 1954.

Direct Start:   6a   *
Avoid the hand traverse and climb the short problematic corner direct. Originally graded VS!! although the ground was less eroded in those days.

1961 many claims.

 

22. Hard On   5c   **

Climb the short hanging groove just right of the corner. An excellent problem.

John Redhead 1977

 

23. Rock On   6a   *

Another problem. Gain the prominent nose and climb it on its left side.

Alan Taylor. Early 1980.

  

24. Jonah   VS 5a   *

Start under the jutting overhangs. Climb the short roof crack to finish up Ahab.

Tony Marr, Mike Stellings.    Spring 1964.

 

Problem:    It is possible to start at Jonah and swing under the roof to finish up Hard On or Rock On at 6a/6b; obviously the ground is out of bounds!

FRA Paul Ingham 1982.

 

Just right of Jonah is:

 

25. Testament of Youth   5m   6b

Climb the blunt nose from a good starting hold and blind crack. The use of combined tactics is tempting but cheating!

Alan Taylor   Early 1980.  “Mr. Flexible” shows how it’s done!

 

26. Moby Dick   12m   VS 4b

Start from the gully. Traverse left above the overhangs then straight up to the ledge. Climb the delicate undercut wall right of the nose to finish. Note: The top block moves!

Cleveland MC 1954/5

Variation finish   VS 4c

From the large ledge move a little further right and climb the corner, passing a hole.

 Tony Marr   5th June 1979.

 

A couple of poor climbs have been made up the overhanging rocks forming the top of the gully but are not included here.

 

27. Dirty Dick   17m   D

Start at the foot of the gully at a grassy ledge. Climb a short wall to a shallow cave. Traverse around left and up a short corner to a large ledge. Finish up the corner crack. Well named!

Richard Whardell.   1954.

 

27A. Dick's Delight   17m   VS 4b
Start at the foot of the gully just left of Dirty Dick. Climb the arete to a good ledge at 2m (junction with Dirty Dick). Continue on the arête first on the left side then stepping onto the right side before gaining the large ledge. Belay possible.
The climb finishes up the centre of the leaning right wall. Gain the obvious crack and follow it rightwards (Strenuous). A deceptive climb, not without interest!
Tony Marr, Mike Tooke   23/06/10

 

28. Dirty Dick Direct   17m   VS 5a

Start as for the normal route. From the cave at 3m climb straight up using a flake to gain the ledge , finish via the exposed arête on the right.

Tony Marr, Ken Jackson, Paul Ingham    5th June 1979

 

The next route is a Severe leader’s delight, offering good climbing with superb positions at the upper end of its grade.

 

29. Forest Face   22m   HS 4b   ***

Start as for Dirty Dick. Climb into the cave then follow easy ledges rightwards in an exposed position to a thin vertical crack (crux), continue directly up the final bulging cracks and exit right.

Terry Sullivan, Vick Tosh. 1958.

 

30. Red Light   13m   HVS 5a   *

Start beneath the left end of the canopy. Climb the short right-facing corner to a ledge, continue up a thin crack to the large ledge and finish up the arête on the right.

Tony Marr, Alan Taylor, Paul Ingham, Tony McLean.  10th July 1979.

 

31. Naught For Your Comfort   16m   E1 5c   *

Climb directly up to and over the right end of the canopy. Continue in a direct line over the final bulges.

Good but bold climbing.

Previously but incorrectly named Forest Face Direct.

John Redhead, Chris Shorter.  Easter 1977. Above the canopy the team finished up Forest Face. 2nd. Ascent, adding the independent finish,   Paul Ingham, Tony McLean, Tony Marr, Alan Taylor 10th July 1979. 

 

A further 2m right is the start of:

 

32.     Hooker   16m   E2 5c   *

Start up a thin crack in the slab to the wide break. Make some technical moves to gain an obvious pocket and continue to a ledge system. A short wall and overlap lead to the top. Superb climbing requiring a confident approach.

Paul Ingham, Dave Wilson, Tony Marr.  12th May 1979.

 

33. Harlot’s Groove   18m   VS 4c   **

Climb the left wall of the arête to the break. Pull up and make an awkward move into the V-groove; continue to the ledges. Finish via the inverted “V” and slab on its right. Good, sustained climbing throughout.

 Terry Sullivan, Johnny Clark (Darlington), Alan Linford.  Summer 1959.

The team were supposed to be going to the Lakes to climb Harlot Face but their transport failed to turn up. They ended up climbing and naming this route as a consolation prize.  

 

34. Harlot’s Body   18m   HVS 5b

A variation on Harlot’s Groove. Instead of climbing the V-groove, pull out right over the roof to finish up the slabby wall and final groove just to the right of the normal finish.

Paul Ingham, Ian Dunn, Nick Dixon.  1979.

Variation   Painted Lady Finish   E1 5b.

Finish straight over the top overhang.

Ian Dunn, Simon Walker   1980.

   

The next climb is excellent for beginners and interesting under snow and ice conditions.

 

35. Tumble-Down Dick   28m   D   *

Start from the lowest point of the buttress. Climb up the gully to a large ledge (floor belay). Exit up the corner on the left.

Richard Whardell.  1954.

 

36. Rough and Tumble   22m   HVS 5b

Consists of three short pitches. Start up the slope right of Tumble Down Dick at a slanting corner.

5b      Climb the awkward corner to the grass ledge.

5a      Attack the stepped nose at its centre and continue to a junction with Tumble Down Dick at the belay ledge.

4a      Move left from the belay and climb a narrow crack splitting the bulge then continue to the top.

Tony Marr, Mike Tooke, Frank Fitzgerald.  30th July 1996.

 

37. Tumble-Down Crack   18m   HS 4b

A poor start leads to an exciting exit. Start to the right of the last climb at the top of the slope. Easy ledges lead left to an open corner which is followed to the large ledge (floor belay). Ascend the fearsome overhanging groove until a step right leads to easier rock.

Cleveland MC 1954/5.

 Alternative Start   VS 5a

When combined with the normal finish it gives a worthwhile route, with some good climbing. Climb the thin corner crack to the large ledge. 

Early 1960s.

 

The next climbs, The Omen and its Variant, can be started using the Alternative Start to Tumble-Down Crack; this however reduces their overall grade to HVS. The descriptions that follow are for fully independent climbs.

 

38. The Omen   18m   E1 5a   *

Start at the corner (Alternative Start). Climb the corner for 2m until it is possible to pull out right and ascend a shallow corner/thin crack to a break. Continue up steep rock to gain the obvious hanging finger crack and finish direct. Steep and strenuous with some good climbing.

John Redhead, Chris Shorter.  Easter 1977. Contrary to popular belief the route described is the one taken by the first ascent team.

Variation Finish    The Omen Arête   E1 5b   *

From just beneath the hanging finger crack, traverse right to the arête and finish up its right side. Bold.

Paul Ingham, Tony Marr.  10th July 1979.

 

39. Spell Bound   19m   E2 5b   *

Start 2m right of the corner. Ascend a steep wall to a ledge and groove. Pull up and left onto the arête and climb boldly straight up to join the Omen Arête up which it finishes.

Tony Marr, Linda Marr.  5th September 1992.

 

The next climb takes the steep, green groove and is much better, and cleaner than it looks.

 

40. Waterslide   19m   HS 4b   **

Climb the short wall to a ledge. Pull up onto the left wall then move across to the right to ascend past a prominent nose, trend left to finish.

Alan Chester.  1954.

A bold ascent for its time with only one running belay in the whole pitch, a sling draped over the prominent nose.

Variation finish   4a

From just above the nose follow the twin horizontal cracks right to finish.

Terry Sullivan and party 1957.

 

41. Waterslide Left Hand   19m   HS 4b   *

Start as for Waterslide.  Climb to the foot of the main groove then follow the left corner throughout. Good climbing, although it can be dirty early in the season.

 Tony Marr, Mike Tooke, Frank Fitzgerald.  10th July 1994

 

42. Fever Pitch   18m   E2 5b   **

Start just right of Waterslide. Climb a shallow groove to the bulge then move right and up to reach a crack. Swing back left and pull up to a ledge on the arête. Finish up the thin final crack. A very fine and bold pitch, the position and moves are enough to see this to be considered a NYM classic.

Based on the aid line Vigilante which was climbed by Neil Stewart, P J Long, J A Long on the 11th June 1967

FFA John Redhead, Chris Shorter,  Easter 1977. On the first free ascent the climbers were forced to finish rightwards just below the top due to turf filled cracks.

The direct finish, as described, was added the following year after a concentrated gardening effort. FA Chris Shorter, John Redhead, Jim Deighton. Summer 1978. 

 

43. Gangrene   18m   E3 6b   *

Climb the steep wall just right of Fever Pitch moving slightly left to a bulge. Pull up and pass a small ledge with difficulty and climb slightly right to finish. Steep with some hard moves, at the upper end of its grade.

Chris Shorter, John Redhead. Summer 1978. Shorter recalls his ascent, “I obviously wasn’t too taxed by the climb as my diary records this as being just 5c.”

 

44. Shorter’s Wall   19m   E5 6b

Start at the lowest point of the buttress. Climb steeply to an overhung shelf, move left and up, (protection in Gangrene) then back right and up to easier ledges. Not well protected.

Steve Finlay.  June 1992. Finlay snatches Chris Shorter’s unclimbed project with Chris belaying and giving encouragement.

 

45. Three Screaming Popes   19m   E6 6c   *

Climb up to the overhung shelf. Gain a good hold over the roof and continue directly up the arête on its left side. Poorly protected, bold and technical (what more could you wish for!).

Based on the aid line Vendetta which was climbed by Neil Stewart, P J Long, J A Long on the 18th June 1967

FFA Chris Shorter 13th June 1992.  A very fine and bold ascent of another much attempted line.

 

The next climb Links Three Screaming Popes with Shorter’s Wall.

 

46. Monty's Variant   E7 6b

Leave the overhung ledge leftwards to join Shorter’s Wall (without the protection in Gangrene) at its hard moves.

Francis (Monty) Montague, Martin Parker.  10th August 1992.

 

47. Italian Connection   19m   E1 5b

Climb directly up the corner to gain the overhung shelf. Step right and pull through the bulge via a shallow weakness, move back left and finish up the right side of the arête. Poorly protected.

Tony Marr 14th August 1992.

Italian Connection E1, Ravens Scar

 

48. Via Anna   16m   VS 4b

Take the thin crack in the wall for a few metres until holds lead left to a ledge. Pull over the bulge at a good flake.

 Terry Sullivan, Bill Dell, John Hickman. Pre 1959.

 

48a. Via Anna - Direct 16m VS 4c **
Follow the thin vertical crack line throughout. The final smooth groove is fortunately not as hard as it looks. Protection is good.
Tony Marr, Mike Tooke 04/07/10.
Really only a direct finish but it transforms an already good climb into a superb climb. Why did I not spot it sooner!

 

49. Overhanging Wall   16m   VS 5a

Just right of Via Anna, follow the fault through the twin projections.

Terry Sullivan. Pre 1959.

 

50. Blind Alley   16m   VD

The obvious chimney.

Cleveland M.C. 1954/5.

 

51. Broadway   16m   VS 5a

Straight up the centre of the buttress right of the chimney. The climb has a tricky start but fortunately becomes easier.

Terry Sullivan.  Pre 1959.

 

51a. Broadside 16m S
Start as for Broadway. Gain the first ledge then move to the right arête. Follow a rising line first to the right then back left to finish just right of Broadway. Poorly protected.
Tony Marr, Mike Tooke 04/07/10.
 

Airlift Area 

Across the grassy descent path is:


51b. Breathless 8m VS 4c
Start 2m left of Airless and immediately right of the arête. Climb straight up the steep wall on spaced holds. Strenuous and poorly protected.
Tony Marr, Mike Tooke 08/07/10.

 

52. Airless   8m   HS 4b

Climb the centre of the steep wall to an awkward finish.

Tony Marr 6th May 1979.

 

53. Airlift   10m   S 4a         *

Start just right of Airless. Ascend steeply up the left side of the arête, step around right at the top break to finish. Superb climbing with good positions.

Terry Sullivan and party. 1955.

The name comes from Sullivan’s service in the R.A.F.

Variation Start   5m   S 4a

Start from the lowest point of the buttress on its front face. Climb the steep wall moving left to join the start of the normal route. A worthwhile addition which improves an already enjoyable climb.

1962.  Many claims.

Airlift Severe, Ravens Scar

 

54. Fade Away   10m   HS 4b

Follow the steep and strenuous arête throughout.

Roy Burrows. 1962.

 

55.     Sam Stretch   16m   VS 4c

Climb the centre of the impending front face of the buttress.

Chris Shorter, John Redhead. Easter 1977.

 

56. Greasy Gully   8m   S 4a

The obvious gully.

Cleveland MC 1954/5

 

57. Left Wall   8m   S 4b

The left wall of Greasy Gully to an overhang finish.

Tony Marr, Mike Stellings. 1964.

 

58. Greasy Wall   12m   VD

Climb the centre of the right wall. Often dirty.

Cleveland MC 1954/5

 

59. John Denver’s Greatest S**t   12m   VS 4c

Climb the ‘V’ at the extreme right side of the wall at the edge of the overhang.

Chris Shorter Easter 1977 “John Denver” was Shorter’s nickname at that time.

 

60. Pencil Line   12m    E3 5b

Ascend the centre of the impressive overhang on fragile holds. Bold and poorly protected.

FA As an aid climb. 1964.  [3 pegs]. 

FFA   Paul Ingham, Tony Marr, Dave Wilson. 12th May 1979.

 

61. Crocodile Chimney   12m        D

Climb the V chimney just right of a prominent nose. Finish leftwards over easy ledges and a short corner.

Cleveland MC 1954/5

 

62. Monkey Puzzle   14m        D

Better than it looks. Climb the wall right of the previous route to a ledge. Step left and finish up Crocodile Chimney.

Cleveland MC 1954/5

 

63. Durius Melius   13m   E1 5b

Follow Monkey Puzzle to the roof. Pull straight over the roof at a nose of rock to a ledge. Step right and surmount the bulge at a pointed block. Bold and poorly protected.

John Redhead, Chris Shorter.  Easter 1977. The name of the route is a rough approximation in Latin of “The Harder the Better”, which was the team motto at that time.

 

64. Monkey Nut   13m   VS 4b  *

Climb the corner line to the ledge. Follow the finger crack over the bulge and finish direct. Often dirty but with some good climbing.

Terry Sullivan   1957

 

65. Telstar   15m   VS 4c   *

Climb the corner of Monkey Nut to the roof. Surmount the overhanging wall on the right on good holds in an impressive position. Finish over the final overhang.

Roy Burrows and party   1962.

Named after the first Telecommunications Satellite which had just been launched into Space.

 

Across the grassy gully and starting 2m left of the impressive corner is,

 

66. Montezuma’s Revenge   9m   VS 5a

Ascend the slab to a bulging wall then continue directly to a move right at a prow.

Ian Dunn.  1981.

 

67. Roseberry Corner   8m   HS 4b

The impending corner is climbed with increasing difficulty.

Cleveland MC  1954/5

 

68. Ledges   7m   HVS 5a

Start just right of Roseberry Corner. Climb the wall on well defined ledges to a difficult escape onto the nose.

FFA Stewart Patterson, Chris Woodall.  Late 1960s

 

8m beyond Roseberry Corner is an isolated outcrop.

 

69. Terminal Entry   8m   HVS 5a

Start right of Ledges under the nose of the buttress.  Climb up rightwards and through a notch in the overhang, trend up left to finish on the nose.

Tony Marr, Mike Tooke, Frank Fitzgerald, Pete Shawcross.  15th September 1996.

 

70. Dirt Devil   6m   VS 4c

Climb the thin vertical crack right of Terminal Entry.

Tony Marr, Pete Shawcross, Mike Tooke, Frank Fitzgerald.  15th September 1996.

 

Further right across the grass slope is:

 

71. Gun Buttress                   10m   M

Climb the centre of the rocks by way of the chimney, keep left at the ridge and turn the “Gun” on its right.

Cleveland MC   1954/5.

 

Twin Buttress

A few metres further right lays the outcrop of Twin Buttress.

 

72. Castor   7m   VD   *
Starts at a spike at the foot of the left arête of the square recess. Climb the enjoyable arête throughout.
Cleveland MC 1954/5.

73. Scout Crack   5m   D
The vegetated crack in the back right-hand corner of the recess. Not recommended.
Cleveland MC 1954/5

74. Pollux   8m   D
Start from a boulder at the foot of the right arête of the recess. Climb the arête mainly on its left side. Finish leftwards along a flake. A pleasant climb.
Cleveland MC 1954/5

75. Star Trek   7m   S
Climbs the wall to the right of Pollux. Start from the boulder (Pollux) and pull onto the wall using horizontal cracks. From the ledge finish up the left side of the nose.
Mike Tooke, Pete Shawcross. 25th August 1996.
Star Trek Direct Start   Severe
Begin 2m right of the boulder, climb the wall direct. (Same grade but more strenuous).
Tony Marr, Mike Tooke 17th.August 2011

76. Dan Dare   8m   D   *
Start 3m right of the boulder of Pollux at a fine vee groove. Climb the groove, step right at the overhang and finish up the slab. An enjoyable pitch.
Mike Tooke, Tony Marr 17th.August 2011 

 

 

Further right still is:

 

Butt End Buttress Area

This neglected area of Raven’s Scar offers some excellent climbs on good quality rock - worth a look!

 

77. Butt Head   5m   VS 4c   *

The steep buttress 5m left of Green Gully, is climbed direct.

Tony Marr, Mike Tooke, Pete Shawcross.   25th August 1996.

 

78. Square Chimney   5m   D

The short corner 2m right of Butt Head.

Mike Tooke, Pete Shawcross.   25th August 1996.

 

79. Green Gully    7m   VD

About 3m left of a cleft formed by a detached buttress is a shallow gully, climb it.

Cleveland MC 1954/5

 

80. Butt End Wall   7m   S 4a

Climb the wall right of Green Gully on horizontal breaks.

Cleveland MC 1954/5

 

81. Tilt   8m   VS 5a   *

Start at the base of Butt End Wall. Gain the ledge on the right then follow the steep leaning arête on its right side. Good climbing.

Tony Marr, Mike Tooke, Pete Shawcross. 25th August 1996.

 

82. Home Front   8m   VS 4b

Start just right of Tilt at the flake in the cleft. Gain the ledge then climb the wall via faint cracks.

Tony Marr, Mike Tooke, Pete Shawcross. 25th August 1996.

 

83. Smokey   12m   D

Start from inside the cleft at its right end. Ascend the corner and groove to the top.

Cleveland MC  1954/5

Another climb “Joe” V.D. (1954/5) crosses the wall to the left of the final section of Smokey, but it is usually very dirty and not recommended.

 

84. Smokeless   8m   HS 4b

Climb the arête right of Smokey on its right side. Worthwhile but unfortunately escapable.

Tony Marr, Mike Tooke, Pete Shawcross 25th August 1996

 

Right of Smokeless is an alcove...

 

85. Alcove Wall   5m   E1 5c

The left wall of the alcove.

Steve Brown, Dave Paul.  1980.

 

86. Sooty   5m   S 4a

Takes the left-hand rear corner.

1960s.

 

87. Sweep   5m   HVD

The right-hand corner.

1960s.

 

88. Nutter   5m   VS 4b

Takes the hanging corner 7m right of Sweep.

Tony Marr, Eric Marr.  September 1969.

 

Girdle Traverse:

The crag has been traversed from end to end crossing every outcrop, and at various levels. Unfortunately due to the rock strata forming horizontal shelves, much of the climbing is very straight-forward, and not worth describing. However, two sections of the crag do offer interesting climbing and warrant brief descriptions.

 

Left End Traverse   25m   VS 4c

Start at the foot of En Passant. Climb the corner for 4m then gain the traverse line running rightwards crossing Grooves -ology, into the corner of Satchmo. Continue at the same level until a step is crossed to gain the finishing corner of Sunshine Slab and the top. Stances should be taken as required to prevent rope drag. Contains some good climbing.

Terry Sullivan, Vic Tosh.   1959.

 

Central Girdle   45m   HVS 5a

4b.   Start as for Forest Face and follow it to the vertical crack, then continue rightwards to the stance on Harlot’s Groove beneath the inverted V groove. Belay.

D     Continue easily to the large ledge on Tumble Down Dick. Belay.

5a    Traverse right from the ledge, crossing to Omen Arête, continue into Waterslide and finish along the obvious horizontal cracks to the top of Shorter’s Wall to where the climb can be terminated. Care required to prevent severe rope drag. Once again contains some very good climbing and worth doing.

Terry Sullivan, Vic Tosh.   1959.

 

Broughton Bank

About 200m further west and slightly lower is Broughton Bank.   This small crag is worth a visit. A short way beyond Broughton Bank is the popular Wainstones.

 

White Hill (aka Landslip) Area

About 250m further east of Raven’s Scar is Another compact crag which climbers have referred to as Landslip. The area is really not unstable and the name may be putting people off repeating one of the best E5/6s in the area.

  

 

 

Full details in the

North East England Guide

 

Raven's Scar PDF Mini Guide

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