Bob and Jenny Hogarth climbing Little Leaner at Ravensheugh
Map reference:
NZ012988
Alt. 392m
North West Facing
45 mins
Situation and Character
This magnificent crag lies 1mile west of Simonside and faces north west with
a commanding aspect over the Coquet Valley, in a setting which is unsurpassed
anywhere in the county. The rock is compact sandstone, which is generally of
good quality, though there are occasional sandy areas where the harder surface
has eroded. Cracks and chimneys are plentiful offering obvious lines. The open
walls and buttresses, which are often rounded and with small holds, provide many
of the harder routes. In general the climbing is reminiscent of gritstone and
proficiency in jamming is essential on many of the middle grade routes. Some of
the best climbs in Northumberland are to be found on this crag, although early
in the season they may be lichenous and the harder ones may require cleaning (as
if the visitors need an excuse).
Approaches and Access
The rocks can be reached in about forty five minutes from the Forestry
Commission car park on the road between Great Tosson and Lordenshaw (037997).
The Forestry Commission road is followed through the forest to beneath the west
end of Simonside where a minor track leads west across the plateau to a stile.
Follow a faint track 100 metres further to reach the top of the crag. An
alternative approach can be made in about the same time from Great Tosson by
following the Simonside track to the 300 metre contour line, then branching off
right along a forestry road which is followed until just after a hairpin bend to
the left where the trees stop. Cut up the hillside to gain the minor track and
continue to the stile just before the crag. No right of way exists from the
stile to the crag. At the time of writing there is no access problem but
climbers must not stray across the moor. There is a right of access to the crag
under CRoW.
New Routes:
The following route
climbs the hanging scoop in the wall to the left of The Plumber:
103a The Apprentice 9m E4 6b
Start as for Steeple Crack. Boulder up the arête to a good pocket. Using a
small crimp half a metre above this move rightwards to the bottom of the hanging
green groove. Make a hard move up this to better holds and protection. Finish up
the crack above.
FA Graeme Read (unseconded) 24th April 2006 Belayed by Stephen Kirkup It
offers climbing similar in standard and difficulty to The Plumber, which is an
excellent route devoid of gear and well worth seeking out if you're feeling
bold!
103b The Magician E7 7a (Font 8a highball)
The outrageous prow left of The Plumber and the right of Graeme Read's recent addition The Apprentice.
Andy Earl, Chris Graham April 2007 (both solo)
Graeme Read leading the Judas Hole E5 6a
FIRST ASCENTS:
| Agape | Richard Davies, Graham Telfer, Joseph Gilhespy | 24 | September | 1989 |
| Balmoral Groover | Tommy Smith | |||
| Baluster Crack | Allan Austin and Dave Roberts | |||
| Billy Biscuit | Bob Smith | 2 | July | 1979 |
| Bonneville | Bob Smith | 2 | June | 1985 |
| Border Reivers | Noel Craine, Nick Dixon | 1996 | ||
| Borstal Boy | Bob Smith | |||
| Brown Trousers | Tommy Smith, Bob Smith | |||
| Buckskin | Bob Smith | |||
| Candle in the Wind | Bob Hutchinson and John Earl | 7 | September | 1975 |
| Castaway | Tim Gallagher and Hugh Harris | 23 | June | 1989 |
| Childhood’s End | Bob Hutchinson | |||
| Coffee Time | Bob Smith | |||
| Dawes Route | Johhny Dawes | 1996 | ||
| Easter Bunny | Bob Smith | |||
| First Amongst Equals | Hugh Harris | 11 | June | 1989 |
| Funeral for a Friend | John Earl, Paul Stewart, Bob Smith | |||
| Gates of Eden | John Earl and Bob Hutchinson | 10 | September | 1975 |
| Ginger Snap | Bob Smith | |||
| Gone Fishing | Tim Gallagher | 1989 | ||
| Grease | Steve Blake | 1970s | ||
| Half Minute Crack | Allan Austin and Dave Roberts | |||
| Half Minute Crack Alt Finish | Steve Blake | |||
| Honeymoon Crack | Bob Hutchinson and John Earl | 1976 | ||
| Index Breaker | Bob Smith | |||
| Just Ice | Steve Crowe | 14 | May | 1997 |
| Lapse of Reason | Hugh Harris | 2 | June | 1989 |
| Lupino Lane | Nick Dixon | 1996 | ||
| Moccasin Slab | Bob Smith | |||
| Northern Line | Tommy Smith | |||
| Northern Rock | Jeff Ross | 6 | August | 1989 |
| Octopus | John Earl and Bob Hutchinson | 1978 | ||
| Old Man River | Paul Stewart and Steve Blake | |||
| Overpowered | Andrew Earl | 21 | July | 2001 |
| Paradise Lost | Hugh Harris, Rhian Webb and Joe Webb | 5 | June | 1991 |
| Pendulum | Allan Austin and Dave Roberts | |||
| Pink Lane | Bob Hutchinson | 1 | June | 1977 |
| Plumbline | John Earl and Bob Hutchinson | 23 | July | 1977 |
| Rampart Crack | John Earl and Bob Hutchinson | 1974 | ||
| Ravensheugh Crack | Dave Roberts and Hugh Banner | |||
| Redskin | Bob Smith | |||
| Rock and Roll Star | Bob Smith | 1984 | ||
| Sitting Bull | Bob Smith | |||
| Stay With Me | Bob Smith, Tommy Smith | |||
| The Judas Hole | Bob Smith and Tommy Smith | 27 | May | 1979 |
| The One that Got Away | W Walker | |||
| The Plumber | Bob Hutchinson | 1978 | ||
| The Sandrider | Bob Hutchinson and John Earl | 1974 | ||
| The Trouser Legs | Hugh Banner and David Ladkin | |||
| Trial Separation | Bob Smith | 1 | July | 1987 |
| Verbal Abuse | Bob Smith | |||
| West Wall Variant | Karl Telfer | |||
| Wide Eyed and Legless | Bob Smith and Steve Blake | 5 | September | 1979 |
| Wild West Show | Hugh Banner |
 |
 |
 |
| Crescent Wall MVS 4b |
Bob Hogarth leading Pendulum VS 4c |
Jenny Hogarth leading Parallel Crack VD |
Andrew Earl on the first ascent of Crocodile Arête E7 6c. Photos by Alec Burns.
|
|
Northumberland Climbing Guide The definitive guide to climbing routes in Northumberland. Updates available from the NMC here.
|
|
|
The Northumberland Bouldering Guide The Second Edition of the guide was written and produced by the people who developed the area. Updates available from the NMC here.
|
