Ravensheugh

Bob and Jenny Hogarth climbing Little Leaner at Ravensheugh

Map reference: NZ012988
Alt. 392m

North West Facing
45 mins

Situation and Character
This magnificent crag lies 1mile west of Simonside and faces north west with a commanding aspect over the Coquet Valley, in a setting which is unsurpassed anywhere in the county. The rock is compact sandstone, which is generally of good quality, though there are occasional sandy areas where the harder surface has eroded. Cracks and chimneys are plentiful offering obvious lines. The open walls and buttresses, which are often rounded and with small holds, provide many of the harder routes. In general the climbing is reminiscent of gritstone and proficiency in jamming is essential on many of the middle grade routes. Some of the best climbs in Northumberland are to be found on this crag, although early in the season they may be lichenous and the harder ones may require cleaning (as if the visitors need an excuse).

Approaches and Access
The rocks can be reached in about forty five minutes from the Forestry Commission car park on the road between Great Tosson and Lordenshaw (037997). The Forestry Commission road is followed through the forest to beneath the west end of Simonside where a minor track leads west across the plateau to a stile. Follow a faint track 100 metres further to reach the top of the crag. An alternative approach can be made in about the same time from Great Tosson by following the Simonside track to the 300 metre contour line, then branching off right along a forestry road which is followed until just after a hairpin bend to the left where the trees stop. Cut up the hillside to gain the minor track and continue to the stile just before the crag. No right of way exists from the stile to the crag. At the time of writing there is no access problem but climbers must not stray across the moor. There is a right of access to the crag under CRoW.

New Routes:

74a. Hang em' High 14m E5 6a

Start as for Redskin, just right of Wild West Show. Climb up to the first ledge (crucial RP protection). Instead of following Redskin up and rightwards climb straight up the steep wall using small pockets to a precarious exit on to the slab. Climb this trending slightly leftwards to top out as for Wild West Show. Possibly E4.

FA Graeme Read (Unseconded) 5th May 2007 Belayed by Steve Kirkup

I've given it this grade because I feel both Redskin and Sitting Bull (both given E2) should go up a grade. The climbing on these two routes is certainly easier than Hang em' High but a fall from the slab on any of the routes would result in a ground fall. I suppose you could say "Ravensheugh E4" would be more appropriate and more in keeping in line with the majority of the other extremes on the crag!

The following route climbs the hanging scoop in the wall to the left of The Plumber:

103a The Apprentice 9m E4 6b
Start as for Steeple Crack. Boulder up the arête to a good pocket. Using a small crimp half a metre above this move rightwards to the bottom of the hanging green groove. Make a hard move up this to better holds and protection. Finish up the crack above.
FA Graeme Read (unseconded) 24th April 2006 Belayed by Stephen Kirkup It offers climbing similar in standard and difficulty to The Plumber, which is an excellent route devoid of gear and well worth seeking out if you're feeling bold!

103b The Magician E7 7a (Font 8a highball)

The outrageous prow left of The Plumber and the right of Graeme Read's recent addition The Apprentice.

Andy Earl, Chris Graham April 2007 (both solo)

Graeme Read leading the Judas Hole E5 6a

FIRST ASCENTS:

Agape	Richard Davies, Graham Telfer, Joseph Gilhespy	24	September	1989
Balmoral Groover	Tommy Smith
Baluster Crack	Allan Austin and Dave Roberts
Billy Biscuit	Bob Smith	2	July	1979
Bonneville	Bob Smith	2	June	1985
Border Reivers	Noel Craine, Nick Dixon			1996
Borstal Boy	Bob Smith
Brown Trousers	Tommy Smith, Bob Smith
Buckskin	Bob Smith
Candle in the Wind	Bob Hutchinson and John Earl	7	September	1975
Castaway	Tim Gallagher and Hugh Harris	23	June	1989
Childhood’s End	Bob Hutchinson
Coffee Time	Bob Smith
Dawes Route	Johhny Dawes			1996
Easter Bunny	Bob Smith
First Amongst Equals	Hugh Harris	11	June	1989
Funeral for a Friend	John Earl, Paul Stewart, Bob Smith
Gates of Eden	John Earl and Bob Hutchinson	10	September	1975
Ginger Snap	Bob Smith
Gone Fishing	Tim Gallagher			1989
Grease	Steve Blake			1970s
Half Minute Crack	Allan Austin and Dave Roberts
Half Minute Crack Alt Finish	Steve Blake
Honeymoon Crack	Bob Hutchinson and John Earl			1976
Index Breaker	Bob Smith
Just Ice	Steve Crowe	14	May	1997
Lapse of Reason	Hugh Harris	2	June	1989
Lupino Lane	Nick Dixon			1996
Moccasin Slab	Bob Smith
Northern Line	Tommy Smith
Northern Rock	Jeff Ross	6	August	1989
Octopus	John Earl and Bob Hutchinson			1978
Old Man River	Paul Stewart and Steve Blake
Overpowered	Andrew Earl	21	July	2001
Paradise Lost	Hugh Harris, Rhian Webb and Joe Webb	5	June	1991
Pendulum	Allan Austin and Dave Roberts
Pink Lane	Bob Hutchinson	1	June	1977
Plumbline	John Earl and Bob Hutchinson	23	July	1977
Rampart Crack	John Earl and Bob Hutchinson			1974
Ravensheugh Crack	Dave Roberts and Hugh Banner
Redskin	Bob Smith
Rock and Roll Star	Bob Smith			1984
Sitting Bull	Bob Smith
Stay With Me	Bob Smith, Tommy Smith
The Judas Hole	Bob Smith and Tommy Smith	27	May	1979
The One that Got Away	W Walker
The Plumber	Bob Hutchinson			1978
The Sandrider	Bob Hutchinson and John Earl			1974
The Trouser Legs	Hugh Banner and David Ladkin
Trial Separation	Bob Smith	1	July	1987
Verbal Abuse	Bob Smith
West Wall Variant	Karl Telfer
Wide Eyed and Legless	Bob Smith and Steve Blake	5	September	1979
Wild West Show	Hugh Banner