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| Sport CLIMBING+ | Trad CLIMBING+ | Winter CLIMBING+ |
WINTER CLIMBING +
by Ian Parnell and Neil Gresham
Published by Rockfax
Reviewed by Karin Magog
Third in the series, this is a very comprehensive book
from Rockfax covering everything you need to know about winter climbing. It’s
written by Ian Parnell and Neil Gresham who have a vast amount of experience
behind them. Ian is perhaps better known for his mountaineering exploits,
whereas Neil brings good knowledge of the more modern mixed climbs. They are
also both familiar with the infamous Scottish winter climbing and ice climbing.
Like previous publications, such as sports climbing +, this is a well laid out, easy to read book. It is well-illustrated with photographs, both action and technical, and sports a few interesting anecdotes. The book is divided into ten chapters: - starting out, equipment, mountain safety, ice (style and ethics), ice (techniques), mixed (style and ethics), mixed (techniques), the mind, training and destinations. As someone who dabbled in winter climbing a few years ago I found the section on equipment particularly fascinating. I hadn’t realised that some axes were more suited to ice or mixed, that clipper leashes existed (mine are fixed) and that crampons could be changed from dual to mono point. This section alone was invaluable in bringing me up to date and refreshing my knowledge. Mountain Safety was also well written and seems to cover all the basics. For more in depth knowledge there are several books out there dedicated to this subject alone. The main chapters on the two different types of winter climbing are a mine of information and I’m sure even the most experienced winter climber could learn something here, being a bit of a winter climbing punter I was a bit overwhelmed to be honest. I was more at home reading the two sections on the mind and training as much of it applies to climbing in general. The final section covers that all important question ‘where to go?’ Scotland is the biggest UK destination and is covered in the most detail accordingly. Other areas include Wales, the Lake District, France, Italy, Switzerland, Norway, USA, Canada and Quebec.
All in all an impressive publication which should appeal to both those just starting out in winter climbing and the more experienced climber alike.
SCOTTISH ROCK VOLUMES 1and 2 by Gary Latter
Reviewed by Karin Magog
This pair of selected guides cover between them a vast
proportion of the Scottish mainland and its associated Northern and Western
Isles. First out was Volume 1, which encompasses the area north of the Highland
Boundary Fault but south of Skye and Torridon. There are eleven main areas
described, these being Isle of Arran, The Arrochar Alps, Isle of Mull, Glen Coe
& Glen Etive, Ardgour, Ardnamurchan, Glen Nevis, Ben Nevis, Central Highlands,
The Cairngorms and finally Easter Ross. The more recent Volume 2 covers ten
areas, Skye, Applecross, Torridon, Gairloch, Coigach & Assynt, Sutherland,
Caithness, Lewis & Harris, Pabbay & Mingulay and finally Orkney.
The guide has an entertaining and informative introduction with headings such as Using the Guide, Accommodation, Eating Out, Access, Wild Camping, Caravans (very amusing), Birds, Seasonal Restrictions, Directions, Conservation, Ethics, Style, Quality Assessment, Climate, Tidal Information, Weather Information, Wee Bastards (aka midges and ticks), Mountain Rescue and Grades. Following this in Volume 1 is a section on geology and as someone who’s always amazed at the vast array of different rock to be climbed in the UK I found this particularly interesting (Scotland has some of the oldest rock in the UK, as well as the best, Lewisian Gneiss being the first to spring to mind). Each short paragraph describes how the rock was formed, what its like to climb and where it’s found in Scotland.
Now onto the climbing areas themselves and each of the sections start with a good, overall map (more detailed maps follow if required), a short intro, info on accommodation and amenities and a brief but informative history. Next the routes and the guide is well served throughout with clear photo diagrams (an excellent effort given some of the territory the guide covers), as well as detailed written descriptions. Presented in a well laid out, generally uncluttered style means the guide is a pleasure to use. The route numbers in the text and diagrams appear in a coloured dot, the colour of which signifies a particular grade range e.g. green for moderate to severe, purple for E4 and above. This makes identifying crags of interest much easier when flicking through the guide. Amazingly each grade range is well served so whether you’re after long, multi-pitch severes or hard, technical extremes there’s enough here to satisfy even the most manic of climbers. There’s also plenty of action pictures which are well placed in the text and cover the full range of grades and styles of climbing on offer (amazingly the sun always seems to be shining). The cover photograph of Volume 1 is an interesting choice but highlights the diversity Scotland has to offer, whereas the cover of Volume 2 has me booking my ferry to Lewis and dreaming of sun drenched rock. Each volume stands at almost 500 pages and describing 1670 and 2400 routes respectively they offer amazing value for money. It also means they’ll be heavy to carry up those multi-pitch mountain routes but I reckon that’s a small price to pay.
Being particularly familiar with many of the areas in Volume 2 I can testify to the excellent job that Gary has done. I was browsing through the book with sweaty palms and exclamations of ‘we must get back there’, ‘that crag looks amazing’, ‘I would love to do that route’, etc. All in all two superb publications that Gary deserves to be proud of. It might have taken him 12 years to produce these guides but they were certainly worth the wait. His love and knowledge of climbing in Scotland are present throughout the guides and help make them truly inspiring. Get your copies now.
GOGARTH NORTH REVIEW by Simon Panton
Reviewed by Karin Magog
After their well received North Wales Select Guide the
Ground Up team rose to the challenge of producing a definitive guidebook to
Gogarth. Since the last Climber’s Club guide to the area in 1990 there has been
much development and although the CC had talked of publishing a new guide for
several years nothing seemed to be happening. It was a big task for the Ground
Up team to take on, in fact so large that they’ve decided to split the area into
two volumes, North and South (the latter being due out later this year).
The guide follows a similar layout to the North Wales guide with each area
receiving a detailed intro which includes the usual headings such as approach
(including a good sketch map), conditions and basic info on aspect,
rock-type,etc. There are also a few paragraphs which offer a general insight
into the nature of the climbing and, like North Wales, a list of all the routes
and their grades, which is particularly useful when you’re skimming through for
ideas on which crag to visit.
The area that I feel this guide has really excelled in though is their use of
photo-topos. These are well-produced and very clear, despite the number of
routes on them. For Main Cliff the crag is covered by several overlapping photos
and with a topo every few pages they are quick and easy to locate. I found the
double-page photo on page 112 particularly stunning. The guide is easy to follow
starting as it does at Holyhead Mountain and moving clockwise (or north) from
there. The crag approaches, such as where to ab, are clearly found in the text
and also shown on the photo diagrams, very useful. There’s also plenty of great
action pictures spread right across the grades, my favourites include the one of
‘A Dream of White Horses’, just look at that exposure – awesome!
As well as the traditional Gogarth cliffs the guide also has details on the less
well-known limestone sport crags along the north coast of Anglesey. In total the
guide details over 500 routes, which is pretty impressive bearing in mind that
this is only volume 1. The guide also sports a very detailed and interesting
introduction on all aspects from access and conservation to the high speed ferry
wake and loose rock. There’s also a good history section at the back which is
split into decades and is illustrated by some great photos.
If I have any criticism of the guide it’s the use of split grades in places.
This is perhaps understandable on some of the harder routes in Wen Zawn that may
not have seen many repeats but surely Mammoth Direct deserves a more assertive
grade than E5/6 6a/b. I know this crag in particular can be condition dependant
but surely adding ‘top-end of the grade’ or ‘soft for the grade’ into the
description may have been a better approach. (Personally I would go for top-end
E5 6b and the same for Mammoth). However, this only applies to a handful of
routes and certainly offers an opportunity for post climbing discussions!
All in all an excellent production, a big well done to all the Ground Up team
and their editor Simon Panton. I’m looking forward to Gogarth South but in the
meanwhile it’s off to Main Cliff this summer.
EL CHORRO ROCKFAX by Mark Glaister
Reviewed by Karin Magog
This, the latest guide from Rockfax, certainly doesn’t
disappoint. Previously, the climbing at El Chorro had been detailed in the
triple-area guides (Costa Blanca, Mallorca and El Chorro), but now (in line with
the other 2 areas) El Chorro finally has its own guidebook.
It’s the first time that photo topos (as opposed to hand drawn ones) have been used for the area and what an impact they make, for me really highlighting some of the impressive cliffs down there. The lay-out is much less cluttered than some of the more recent Rockfax guides which makes using the guide easier and more pleasurable. Add to that some superb action shots and you’re onto a winner. The areas included have been updated since the last guide to reflect local access restrictions and popularity, meaning we’ve lost the Upper Gorge (climbing is now banned here) and the small venue of Campillos Gorge but we’ve gained the worthwhile sounding wall at Villanueva de Cauche and the rather off-putting but apparently not bad Mijas. Many of the popular areas such as Makinodromo and Desplomilandia have seen plenty of development in recent years offering even more to go at, especially in the higher grades. However, there’s also plenty of less steep stuff around as a quick flick through the guide will testify. As with any Rockfax guide the intro and logistics sections supply all the answers to questions such as accommodation, getting there, best time of year, etc. There’s also the usual high standard access and approach maps. All in all a very good looking guide to this popular and worthwhile area, that Mark Glaister deserves to be pleased with. It inspired me so much I’ve already booked my flights.
Lundy by Paul Harrison (2008)
432 pages of text, maps, pictures and drawings
ISBN 978-0-901601-82-7
This is a completely revised edition of the 2004 guide by Gary Gibson and Paul Harrison. Just under 1000 climbs are described, an increase of over 200 on the old guide. The island of Lundy lies off the south-west coast of England and provides a superb mix of granite sea cliff climbs. A very attractive guide by Paul Harrison with lots of colour photo-topos and action shots. Dave Pickford has contributed a section on Deep Water Soling. As befits the island, most of the solos described are at the harder and more adventurous end of the scale, and all require a high tide! http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/guidebooks/lundy.html
LUNDY GUIDE by Paul Harrison
Reviewed by Karin Magog
Well the new Lundy guide by the Climbers’ Club is now
out and what a great looking guide it is too. Whilst still maintaining the look
of a traditional guidebook a quick flick through it’s pages shows that the CC
have really upped their game.
The guide starts with the usual sort of introduction with info on
topics such as Staying on Lundy, Fauna and Flora, Weather and Tides, Fixed
Protection, etc. There is also a useful piece entitled A Coastal Journey which
takes you round the island clockwise from the village describing prominent
landmarks and geographical features that help in locating the climbing areas.
The guide also comes with a very useful and extremely detailed separate map to
the island which I’m sure most climbers will find invaluable. However, the cliff
line of Lundy is very complex so even with all this info don’t be surprised if
you get lost at least once.
Now onto the meat of the guide and this is where the main improvements lie,
notably the use of photo diagrams. There are so many walls and zawns on Lundy
that photo diagrams for all the routes would be an impossible task, instead the
more popular areas have been covered. The photos are all well lit and nice and
sharp, giving a good indication as to the character of the cliff as well as
helping you locate your route. As a person more used to ‘outcrop’ guides and
hence, every route having a number, I have to admit to sometimes getting a bit
frustrated with the numbering on the diagrams. Yes the numbers and the routes
they relate to work fine on a basic level but then quickly locating the
corresponding route in the text is not quite so straightforward. However, this
style is consistent throughout the CC guides and those using them on a regular
basis will probably wonder what my problem is. Another excellent new feature are
the more general cliff photos, which encompass several of the climbing areas and
give you an immediate picture of where, for example, Wolfman Jack Wall is in
relation to Landing Craft Bay and Black Cliff. Many also show any useful
navigational features on the cliff top, (such as the various rocky outcrops,
which are invaluable in ensuring you head down the correct grassy slope) and
highlight the main abseil points. The guide still has plenty of detailed written
info and several sketched maps, all of which should help you locate your chosen
route first time. The back of the guide also contains a detailed history or
chronology as it is called. This includes plenty of entertaining anecdotes as
well as listing the first ascentionists and makes for a good read.
Finally I must mention the action photos as the majority are fantastic. Every
grade is covered and all angles, from in your face close ups to atmospheric long
shots, all of which capture the essence of climbing on Lundy. They certainly got
my adrenaline flowing.
Paul Harrison and team are to be congratulated on such an excellent job. I’ve
been drooling over the guide making out my ticklist in anticipation for my trip
in September. Even if you haven’t got a trip planned then still buy the guide as
I can guarantee after looking through it you’ll be there next year.
Reviewed by Karin Magog 17th July 2008
SCOTTISH ROCK VOLUME 1 by Gary Latter
Reviewed by Karin Magog
Volume 1 of Scottish Rock encompasses the area north
of the Highland Boundary Fault but south of Skye and Torridon (the area north of
here will be covered in volume 2). There are eleven main areas described, these
being Isle of Arran, The Arrochar Alps, Isle of Mull, Glen Coe and Glen Etive,
Ardgour, Ardnamurchan, Glen Nevis, Ben Nevis, Central Highlands, The Cairngorms
and finally Easter Ross.
The guide has an entertaining and informative introduction with headings such as
Using the Guide, Accommodation, Eating Out, Access, Wild Camping, Caravans (very
amusing), Birds, Seasonal Restrictions, Directions, Conservation, Ethics, Style,
Quality Assessment, Climate, Tidal Information, Weather Information, Wee
Bastards (aka midges and ticks), Mountain Rescue and Grades. Following this is a
section on geology and as someone who’s always amazed at the vast array of
different rock to be climbed in the UK I found this particularly interesting.
Each short paragraph describes how the rock was formed, how it climbs and where
it’s found in Scotland.
Now onto the climbing areas themselves and each of the eleven sections start
with a good, overall map (more detailed maps follow if required), a short intro,
info on accommodation and amenities and a brief but informative history. Next
the routes and the guide is well served throughout with clear photo diagrams (an
excellent effort given some of the territory the guide covers), as well as
detailed written descriptions. Presented in a well laid out, generally
uncluttered style means the guide is a pleasure to use. The route numbers in the
text and diagrams appear in a coloured dot, the colour of which signifies a
particular grade range e.g. green for moderate to severe, purple for E4 and
above. This makes identifying crags of interest much easier when flicking
through the guide. Amazingly each grade range is well served so whether you’re
after long, multi-pitch severes or hard, technical extremes there’s enough here
to satisfy even the most manic of climbers. There’s also plenty of action
pictures which are well placed in the text and cover the full range of grades
and styles of climbing on offer (amazingly the sun always seems to be shining as
well). The cover photograph is an interesting choice but highlights the
diversity Scotland has to offer. At almost 500 pages and describing 1670 routes
this guide offers amazing value for money. It also means it’ll be heavy to carry
up those multi-pitch mountain routes but I reckon that’s a small price to pay.
All in all a superb publication that Gary deserves to be proud of. His love and
knowledge of climbing in Scotland are present throughout the guide and help make
this a truly inspiring book. Get your copy now. Available direct from
Pesda Press. From the Foreword by Hamish MacInnes … “If you have an
ambition to do all the climbs in these two Scottish Rock guides I think you’d
better schedule time off in your next life. This labour of Gary’s has been of
gargantuan proportions. Those of you who use the guides will benefit by his
dedication and the sheer choice offered; if you divide the retail price of these
by the number of good routes you’ll realise this is a bargain. Volume 1 covers a
proliferation of Scottish crags up to the natural demarcation of the Great Glen.
They are easier to access than most in Volume 2 and present infinite variety. I
have been a long-time advocate of selected climbs and the use of photographs to
illustrate both climbs and action. I’m glad that this principle has been used
throughout these two volumes. It gives you a push to get up and do things. The
list seems endless and if you succeed in doing half of them you’ll be a much
better climber and know a lot more about Scotland – have a good decade!”
Reviewed by Karin Magog July 2008
NORTHERN ENGLAND ROCKFAX
Reviewed by Andy Birtwistle
It is generally recognised that the evolution of climbing guides over the last 15 years has been driven by the Rockfax machine. From the first foray with Yorkshire Limestone in 1990 Rockfax guides evolved into “state of the art publications” and a benchmark that set the standard for others. Their innovative approach also went some way to excuse them from the oft leveled criticism that they rely on the hard work and research of unpaid members of established clubs for their material. By re- working information into a user friendly and attractive way of finding ones way around the crags they kept moving things on. The overall guidebook standard improved and the quality bar was raised. In doing this they also provided a great service to climbers in areas where guides were out of date or out of print. But how far this would go without straining the system too much remained to be seen.
So it was a mixture of curiosity and trepidation that I felt when I opened their latest offering “Northern England”. Curiosity, because even though I have always had reservations about the way they sourced information, I tended to use the Rockfax as well as the definitive guides. In a way they seemed to complement each other and this perceived symbiosis appeared to benefit everyone in the long run. Trepidation because on this occasion, I didn’t know quite what to expect from a guide that tried to do so much and it was also trespassing on some hallowed ground!
My first reservation is that the areas covered in “Northern England” do not link in a geographically logical way. Most of the crags in Yorkshire have more affinity to, and are closer to the gritstone edges of the Peak than the remote sandstone outcrops of Northumberland. Apart from that three definitive and up to date guides already cover this large area so what was the raison d’etre for publication of such a wide encompassing volume? Author Chris Craggs, originally from Northumberland, also admits in the acknowledgements that Alan James was unsure when he says he “finally caved in after four years of badgering and agreed the guide would be a good idea” .This suggests a strong reluctance to go down this route and leaves the reader wondering why he changed his mind.
Was this hesitance perhaps brought about by the fact that these areas really do not have much in common? Possibly also he was aware that they had strong and fiercely independent climbing communities, and in the main modern and up to date guide books. Maybe also, patching them together was illogical. Even the title “Northern England” requires further explanation in the introduction?
At first glance the guide is the usual professional, polished and colourful product we have come to expect from Rockfax. Crag shots are very good as are the photographs but they tend to rely heavily on a few individuals particularly that old Rockfax stalwart Colin Binks. There are also a few of a younger slimmer Chris Craggs in his native “County”. The guide contains a mixture of routes and boulder problems with V grades used for the bouldering. The usual array of well know symbols accompany the route descriptions.
Yorkshire takes up about half the book but surprisingly starts with Pule Hill and Shooter’s Nab. Where? I reach for my library as these are not the first places that come to mind with Yorkshire Grit. They are in Yorkshire but they’re in Lancashire Rock! After this puzzling introduction we are soon back to the popular favourites such as Almscliff, Ilkley, Earl, Caley and Crookrise. The crag layouts and photo- diagrams are excellent as we are accustomed to but there appears to be a lack of consistency in the selection of outcrops with boulder problems and those without. At some top bouldering venues, such as Widdop, the reader is referred to the definitive guide, whereas other areas have comprehensive details of problems. Shipley Glen is missing altogether. This makes one wonder what criteria were used for the choice.
Still within Yorkshire the guide documents in detail the isolated mainly bouldering outcrop of Crag Willas and Durham’s Goldsborough Carr. The North York Moors section in particular appears to be cherry picking of crags rather than routes, which is almost certainly going to make any future definitive guide for this region a non starter. An area such as this has difficulty warranting a guide of its own anyway as its crags are small and geographically scattered. The main crags at Scugdale, Wainstones and Ravenscar receive full attention while Park Nab and Highcliffe Nab complete the coverage. Strangely the excellent bouldering at Barkers Crag in Scugdale is omitted as are all the other esoteric but beautiful isolated outcrops in this region that are now likely to become forgotten.
So on to Northumberland, where my concerns are now beginning to escalate. The introduction begins with a mistake. The author borrows a quote by Geoffrey Winthrop Young, from the most recent climbing guide. This quote has been used in all the definitive guides by the Northumbrian Mountaineering Club since the 1950’s but the last edition had a mistake where the word “county” was used instead of “country”! Rockfax repeat this, a small but telling error. Furthermore this section begins with Causey Quarry which isn’t in Northumberland. That apart the quarry is rarely used these days having long gone out of vogue. Crag Lough, Peel Crag and the major sandstone crags get full treatment. The Bowden’s, Great Wanney, The Simonside’s and the Kyloe’s and even smaller venues such as Corby’s and Berryhill. Only a few minor crags are left out, in fact only a few routes are left out and it would appear that the reasons for this are more to do with page layout than picking quality lines. We are told in the frontispiece that this is “a rock climbing guidebook to selected routes”. It would be interesting to know what has been selected. One gets the impression that the routes have been pulled out of the Northumberland guide wholesale.
Some grades have been changed and at Callerhues in particular the authors have taken it upon themselves to adjust the traditional grades “to one more in line with modern thinking”. Sidewalk goes from MVS to HVS and Paving from MVS to E1. The latter is font 4+ in the new bouldering guide. The reason for this is that Callerhues grades have always been contentious. They have little if any protection and the crux is often at the rounded finish. The latest definitive guide did a lot to address the problem but obviously not enough for Messrs Craggs and James. Maybe the author had a hard time, who knows? The bottom line is that most Northumbrians pride themselves on their routes and grades and perhaps it is up to others to rise to their standards as long as they have been forewarned of the grading. Many of these routes can be classed as high ball solos nowadays anyway. Rockfax itself give Crouching the Mahogany E5 6b or V8! It is no higher than many of the other described routes. This policy of upgrading strangely also applies to Second Born a route that is protectable and above a very soft bog, and as far as I am aware has not had a second ascent so how was it graded?
I am also aware that I can easily be accused of nit picking but at the risk of this and on delving deeper, we may have a few more insights into the author’s mindset for producing this guide. On pages 346-7 at Kyloe Crag there appears to be a little dig, where First Born E4 6b gets the comment “originally given 7a”. This is obviously gleaned from a mistake that appeared in the Northumbrian Mountaineering Club’s 50th Anniversary celebration book “No Nobler County” in 1995. First Born was in fact given 6a in the 1984 new climbs supplement. One has to question the author’s research, as who in 1980 would claim a 7a? More revealing however is Chris’s Arete where the first ascent is credited to Chris Craggs mid 1970s with the quote “he has to wait 30 years and write his own guidebook to get due recognition”! To claim this minor route at HS 4b is rather strange when in all probability it was done in the1950s, after all Devil’s Edge HVS 5a was done in 1957 and it is unlikely that such an obvious and easy line remained unclimbed until well into the1970s. Perhaps a few axes have been waiting a long time to be ground? Whatever the reasons, mistakes such as these, (and there are many, too many to mention) highlight the shortcomings of the Northumbrian section.
In conclusion, “Northern England” is a well produced a guide as you would expect from the Rockfax stable. It will probably prove popular to visitors as it contains a wealth of superb climbs between its covers. If all the information you require is the route, the grade and how to find your way there, it serves its purpose adequately. The dedicated boulderer however will be frustrated as much is missing and the keen local may prefer the greater accuracy, history and coverage provided by the definitive guides.
A final but pertinent point is that with this guide Rockfax seems to be entering a new era. A comprehensive all encompassing “selected guide” like this will make the future production of definitive guides more unlikely. Local clubs and climbers who have as previously stated, relied on unpaid volunteers and enthusiasts to research and collate this data will be the victims. These clubs, who plough any profits back into their climbing community, will not have the resources to risk such a venture. The Rockfax data base now contains all this information and it can easily be added to for future publications. The question is will Rockfax also be the stewards for the soul of our sport? If definitive guides suffer, as they are almost certainly going to do in this case, will we be deprived of a rich heritage of our climbing history in the future?
With their latest publication Rockfax may have overstepped the mark. Not only have they bitten the hand that feeds them, they could well have eaten the seed corn as well.
Reviewed by Andy Birtwistle July 2008
DEEP WATER
Reviewed
by Karin Magog
Deep Water by Mike Robertson includes everything and anything you would want to know about deep water
soloing. The guide starts with an excellent introduction with much needed advice
on safety, grades, tides and tactics. The safety section includes some good
advice on splashdowns with a couple of good photos on how to and how not to land
in the water. Onto grades next and the reasoning behind the adoption of sports
grades is explained, along with meaning of the ‘S’ (or safety) grades (a fall
off an S3 is not recommended!) Each route in the guide is assigned both which
tells the climber a lot about a route before even reading the words. The section
on tides is really interesting (did you know that the high spring tides always
occur either early or late in the day?). It also includes a table which
discusses tidal swings at the more popular venues, with Pembroke having tidal
swings up to 8m compared to Dorset’s miniscule 1.7m. The introduction also
includes a glossary of DWS terms, a who’s who in the world of DWS and a brief
history on its evolution, all of which makes interesting reading.
The guide now gets down to business with each venue described in the usual
rockfax manner. A couple of pages detailing conditions, accommodation, food and
crag approach lead to the high quality crag photos and route descriptions. The
pages are well laid out and less cluttered than other recent rockfax guides,
making it very easy to use. All the major venues in southern England are covered
in detail (e.g. Swanage, Lulworth, Devon and Portland to name a few), there’s a
small section on Scotland and another on other possible UK venues. For Europe
the major destinations appear to be Mallorca, Portugal and the Costa Blanca all
of which look appealing with some steep and impressive lines above turquoise
sea. The book finishes with a rest of the world section with a paragraph on
potential venues for those of you keen to explore.
The book is illustrated with plenty of action shots, many of which unfortunately
are a bit soft and generally not of the same high quality as the photo topos.
However, they certainly give you plenty of idea of what it’s all about.
All in all Mike Robertson has done an excellent job and his passion for DWS is
evident throughout the book. Whether you’re a true aficionado or a DWS novice
this book is for you.
Two new
Rock Climbing Atlases out now.
ROCK CLIMBING ATLAS REVIEW
Reviewed
by Karin Magog
Fancy somewhere different for your next climbing trip, a new country to explore
but don’t know where? Well two new publications could give you the inspiration
you’re looking for. The well named Rock Climbing Atlas, one for South Eastern
Europe and one for Greece and the Middle East, offer a vast choice of venues, in
a well laid out, easy to read format. South Eastern Europe covers Bulgaria,
Croatia, Hungary, Macedonia, Romania and Slovenia, with Greece and the Middle
East covering the Greek mainland and islands, Egypt, Jordan, Lebanon, Syria and
Turkey.
Each book starts with an introduction on how to use the book, what the symbols
mean, etc followed by some suggested itineraries. The countries themselves are
then introduced with a map detailing the climbing areas and main towns, basic
climbing info, typical climate (with average monthly temperatures and rainfall),
getting there, moving around, accommodation, food and drink, guidebooks and a
useful facts table. The book then gets down to business with sections on the
main climbing areas of that country. Here is all the information you need to
decide where and when to go, how to find the crags, where to find the local
guidebook, where to eat and sleep and some good suggestions on what else to see
when your arms need a rest. The books are also well illustrated with some
excellent pictures, which give a good flavour of the climbing on offer, as well
as the local scenery and culture of the area.
Altogether two superb publications which the authors Wynand Groenewegen and
Marloes van den Berg deserve to be proud of. The only problem is with so many
great looking places to visit, where do you go first?
SPORTCLIMBING+ REVIEW
Reviewed by Karin Magog
This is an excellent book which contains all the essential information you need for this aspect of the sport. It is divided into twelve sections which cover starting out, gear, ropework, tactics, multi-pitching, onsighting, redpointing, the mind, technique, training, self-care and destinations. Each section is illustrated with plenty of easy to follow diagrams and sketches, breaking the information down into manageable chunks. The book also contains some stunning photographs with climbers operating at all grades, with many of the photos used well to illustrate a particular technique or situation. For a sports climbing novice this book is invaluable, but even experienced sports climbers will find some useful information amongst its pages. The starting out section includes photos and sketches on tying in and that all important threading a lower-off to get back down. In the gear section the art of belaying with a gri-gri is discussed, again with clear photos, and is something that many experienced climbers would find useful. The next section on ropework contains tips that many climbers could benefit from including how to clip, better belaying and stripping a route. The importance of warming up is one of the many useful tactics discussed before the book moves on to describe multi-pitching, on-sighting and red-pointing in more detail. The three sections on technique, the mind and training will help hone your skills and give you the confidence to push your grade. The training section in particular does a good job on explaining the various physical aspects of climbing such as strength, recruitment and the various types of endurance. Each explanation is accompanied by some good suggestions on how each can be improved. The short section on self-care includes some basic info on skin care, injuries and diet, all of which help ensure every subject has been covered and add to the completeness of this publication. The final section on destinations gives some suggestions on what the UK and the rest of the world has to offer the sports climber and includes some useful website addresses. All in all this is an extremely appealing and useful book and should be on the wish list of any sports climber hoping to improve their grade, no matter how experienced.
MALLORCA GUIDE REVIEW
Reviewed by Karin Magog
The new Mallorca guide is of the same high standard we have come to expect with
the Rockfax guides, with a full colour easy to follow format. The majority of
the topos are the clear photo-topo style, with the hand drawn topos only used
for the more tree obscured crags. The crags are described geographically, which
works well, with the usual simple but effective approach maps to guide you to
the crags. There are a few new venues in this guide and the authors have
obviously made an effort to collect as much information on the routes as
possible. There are however, still a few question marks here and there which
will make exploring these venues more intriguing. The new double page photo
spread is a nice touch, although some of the photos seemed a bit soft. In
general the photos were fairly uninspiring and didn’t have me rushing to book a
flight. In the main though another excellent guide and a must for those wanting
to explore the variety of climbing available on this island.