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NORTH WALES CLASSICS by Jack Geldard Published by Rockfax Reviewed by Karin Magog This new guide by
Rockfax is pretty impressive, containing a vast choice of routes across North
Wales all packed down into a pocket-sized book. It's concentrated on the
mountain areas primarily (Gogarth, Llandudno, the Lleyn Peninsular and the slate
aren't included) but also includes an excellent choice of routes at the popular
roadside venue of Tremadog. No guide to North Wales would be complete without
the Llanberis Pass and Cloggy and both are included in some detail here, giving
an excellent selection of classics in the VS-E3 range. Where this guide excels
however, is the selection of routes in lesser known areas such as Cwn Silyn,
Lliwedd and Carneddau. Along with Ogwen and Betws y Coed these 5 areas are
packed with quality routes below HVS, including numerous multi-pitch VDiffs. As
one expects from a rockfax, each crag is accompanied with a clear photo-topo and
the usual sketch map. The routes all have clear written descriptions and details
of the crag descent are highlighted on the photos. Also included is a short but
detailed winter section, just in case we get another winter like the last one.
All in all a quality production which the author, Jack Geldard, deserves to be
proud of. There's plenty of routes to keep the low extreme climber busy but if
you climb at HVS or below and enjoy a good day out in the mountains then this
guide is a must.
North Wales Classics by Jack Geldard is available now, at £16.95 from Rockfax.
Reviewed
1st June 2010
FRANCE-Haute Provence by Adrian Berry Published by Rockfax Reviewed by Karin Magog This is Rockfax's latest guide and certainly doesn't disappoint. It basically covers the area east of the main autoroute du soleil, between the towns of Gap in the north-east and Avignon in the south-west, or in crag terms Ceuse in the north and Buoux in the south. The guide covers fourteen crags in total with some of the other well known crags in the guide being St Leger, Volx, Sisteron, Orpierre and Les Dentelles. The area is divided into four geographical regions each of which come with the usual detailed info such as map, where to stay and local guidebooks. The individual crags then have their own intro giving you an idea of what to expect from the crag, best time to visit and how to find it. As you would expect each crag also comes complete with clear photo topos, which give an excellent indication of what to expect from the climbing. The guide seems well balanced with a good mix of high and low grade venues and routes, therefore offering something for everyone. Obviously this area has many outstanding crags and the author needed to be selective, however I was still disappointed to find Ventavon missing for example and some of the routes I'd done at both Buoux and Ceuse didn't make the cut either, but I know it's impossible to put everything in. The action photos are okay, generally reinforcing the nature of the climbing at that particular crag rather than inspiring you to do a certain route. However, for me the one of Toby Dunn climbing Mariotte at Combe Obscure really stood out. If you ever wondered what a 7c slab would be like check out page 183 – horrendous! One design feature that I wasn't too keen on was the see through textboxes on top of some of the photos. It's a good space saving idea I agree but personally I would just make them white, less distracting. On the whole the guide seems well researched and pretty accurate, however, one typo that stood out was the sentence that suggests that the Cascade area at Ceuse gets the sun until late morning when in fact that's the only time it's not in the sun, a very important difference. On the whole an excellent, well put together guide and a good effort by Adrian. For a sport climbing holiday this area of France should be high on everyone's list of places to visit, making this guide an essential buy. FRANCE Haute Provence by Adrian Berry is be available now, price £21.95. Reviewed 9th January 2010
WESTERN GRIT by Chris Craggs and Alan James Published by Rockfax Reviewed by Karin Magog
Before I start this review I feel I should point out that this is an area of the country that I have little experience of. Apart a couple of brief visits to The Roaches back in my student days I haven’t climbed at any of the crags in the guide. However, that may change after pouring through the latest Rockfax and seeing all this large area has to offer.
The guide is divided into seven geographical areas, Staffordshire Grit, Windgather Area, Kinder Scout, Bleaklow, Chew Valley, Lancashire and the Cheshire Sandstone. Each section is introduced with the now standard double-page photo and is accompanied with a general map marking the crags in that section. Each individual crag has a more detailed map, a brief introduction, approach, a paragraph on conditions and a table which summarises the number and quality of routes in each grade band. As you would expect with Rockfax the guide offers clear photo-topos with accompanying route descriptions. The lay-out appears more spaced out and less cluttered than some of their other, more recent guides, better to have a few more pages and a clear, concise guide, than to produce a more crowded, but slightly less bulky guide. One thing I really liked about the guide was the good number of action shots, which represented the full spread of grades on offer and the fantastic settings of many of the crags (good examples being the photos of Hanging Crack at Dovestones Edge and Ivory Tower at Kinder South, to name just two.)
No Rockfax would be complete without the usual detailed introduction, info on accommodation, local pubs, etc. There’s also a selected graded list based on grade voting on the Rockfax Route Database, and a useful route index at the back of the guide. All in all another classy Rockfax production which showcases the delights this vast area has to offer.
Western Grit by Chris Craggs and Alan James is be available now, price £21.95. Reviewed 7th July 2009
WINTER CLIMBING + by Ian Parnell and Neil Gresham Published by Rockfax
Reviewed by Karin Magog
Like previous publications, such as sports climbing +, this is a well laid out, easy to read book. It is well-illustrated with photographs, both action and technical, and sports a few interesting anecdotes. The book is divided into ten chapters: - starting out, equipment, mountain safety, ice (style and ethics), ice (techniques), mixed (style and ethics), mixed (techniques), the mind, training and destinations. As someone who dabbled in winter climbing a few years ago I found the section on equipment particularly fascinating. I hadn’t realised that some axes were more suited to ice or mixed, that clipper leashes existed (mine are fixed) and that crampons could be changed from dual to mono point. This section alone was invaluable in bringing me up to date and refreshing my knowledge. Mountain Safety was also well written and seems to cover all the basics. For more in depth knowledge there are several books out there dedicated to this subject alone. The main chapters on the two different types of winter climbing are a mine of information and I’m sure even the most experienced winter climber could learn something here, being a bit of a winter climbing punter I was a bit overwhelmed to be honest. I was more at home reading the two sections on the mind and training as much of it applies to climbing in general. The final section covers that all important question ‘where to go?’ Scotland is the biggest UK destination and is covered in the most detail accordingly. Other areas include Wales, the Lake District, France, Italy, Switzerland, Norway, USA, Canada and Quebec.
All in all an impressive publication which should appeal to both those just starting out in winter climbing and the more experienced climber alike.
Reviewed by Karin Magog
The guide has an entertaining and informative introduction with headings such as Using the Guide, Accommodation, Eating Out, Access, Wild Camping, Caravans (very amusing), Birds, Seasonal Restrictions, Directions, Conservation, Ethics, Style, Quality Assessment, Climate, Tidal Information, Weather Information, Wee Bastards (aka midges and ticks), Mountain Rescue and Grades. Following this in Volume 1 is a section on geology and as someone who’s always amazed at the vast array of different rock to be climbed in the UK I found this particularly interesting (Scotland has some of the oldest rock in the UK, as well as the best, Lewisian Gneiss being the first to spring to mind). Each short paragraph describes how the rock was formed, what its like to climb and where it’s found in Scotland.
Now onto the climbing areas themselves and each of the sections start with a good, overall map (more detailed maps follow if required), a short intro, info on accommodation and amenities and a brief but informative history. Next the routes and the guide is well served throughout with clear photo diagrams (an excellent effort given some of the territory the guide covers), as well as detailed written descriptions. Presented in a well laid out, generally uncluttered style means the guide is a pleasure to use. The route numbers in the text and diagrams appear in a coloured dot, the colour of which signifies a particular grade range e.g. green for moderate to severe, purple for E4 and above. This makes identifying crags of interest much easier when flicking through the guide. Amazingly each grade range is well served so whether you’re after long, multi-pitch severes or hard, technical extremes there’s enough here to satisfy even the most manic of climbers. There’s also plenty of action pictures which are well placed in the text and cover the full range of grades and styles of climbing on offer (amazingly the sun always seems to be shining). The cover photograph of Volume 1 is an interesting choice but highlights the diversity Scotland has to offer, whereas the cover of Volume 2 has me booking my ferry to Lewis and dreaming of sun drenched rock. Each volume stands at almost 500 pages and describing 1670 and 2400 routes respectively they offer amazing value for money. It also means they’ll be heavy to carry up those multi-pitch mountain routes but I reckon that’s a small price to pay.
Being particularly familiar with many of the areas in Volume 2 I can testify to the excellent job that Gary has done. I was browsing through the book with sweaty palms and exclamations of ‘we must get back there’, ‘that crag looks amazing’, ‘I would love to do that route’, etc. All in all two superb publications that Gary deserves to be proud of. It might have taken him 12 years to produce these guides but they were certainly worth the wait. His love and knowledge of climbing in Scotland are present throughout the guides and help make them truly inspiring. Get your copies now.
GOGARTH NORTH REVIEW by Simon Panton EL CHORRO ROCKFAX by Mark Glaister
Reviewed by Karin Magog
It’s the first time that photo topos (as opposed to hand drawn ones) have been used for the area and what an impact they make, for me really highlighting some of the impressive cliffs down there. The lay-out is much less cluttered than some of the more recent Rockfax guides which makes using the guide easier and more pleasurable. Add to that some superb action shots and you’re onto a winner. The areas included have been updated since the last guide to reflect local access restrictions and popularity, meaning we’ve lost the Upper Gorge (climbing is now banned here) and the small venue of Campillos Gorge but we’ve gained the worthwhile sounding wall at Villanueva de Cauche and the rather off-putting but apparently not bad Mijas. Many of the popular areas such as Makinodromo and Desplomilandia have seen plenty of development in recent years offering even more to go at, especially in the higher grades. However, there’s also plenty of less steep stuff around as a quick flick through the guide will testify. As with any Rockfax guide the intro and logistics sections supply all the answers to questions such as accommodation, getting there, best time of year, etc. There’s also the usual high standard access and approach maps. All in all a very good looking guide to this popular and worthwhile area, that Mark Glaister deserves to be pleased with. It inspired me so much I’ve already booked my flights.
Lundy by Paul Harrison (2008) This is a completely revised edition of the 2004 guide by Gary Gibson and Paul Harrison. Just under 1000 climbs are described, an increase of over 200 on the old guide. The island of Lundy lies off the south-west coast of England and provides a superb mix of granite sea cliff climbs. A very attractive guide by Paul Harrison with lots of colour photo-topos and action shots. Dave Pickford has contributed a section on Deep Water Soling. As befits the island, most of the solos described are at the harder and more adventurous end of the scale, and all require a high tide! http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/guidebooks/lundy.html
LUNDY GUIDE by Paul Harrison
The guide starts with the usual sort of introduction with info on
topics such as Staying on Lundy, Fauna and Flora, Weather and Tides, Fixed
Protection, etc. There is also a useful piece entitled A Coastal Journey which
takes you round the island clockwise from the village describing prominent
landmarks and geographical features that help in locating the climbing areas.
The guide also comes with a very useful and extremely detailed separate map to
the island which I’m sure most climbers will find invaluable. However, the cliff
line of Lundy is very complex so even with all this info don’t be surprised if
you get lost at least once.
SCOTTISH ROCK VOLUME 1 by Gary Latter
Reviewed by Karin Magog
Reviewed by Karin Magog July 2008
NORTHERN ENGLAND ROCKFAX Reviewed by Andy Birtwistle It is generally recognised that the evolution of climbing guides over the last 15 years has been driven by the Rockfax machine. From the first foray with Yorkshire Limestone in 1990 Rockfax guides evolved into “state of the art publications” and a benchmark that set the standard for others. Their innovative approach also went some way to excuse them from the oft leveled criticism that they rely on the hard work and research of unpaid members of established clubs for their material. By re- working information into a user friendly and attractive way of finding ones way around the crags they kept moving things on. The overall guidebook standard improved and the quality bar was raised. In doing this they also provided a great service to climbers in areas where guides were out of date or out of print. But how far this would go without straining the system too much remained to be seen. So it was a mixture of curiosity and trepidation that I felt when I opened their latest offering “Northern England”. Curiosity, because even though I have always had reservations about the way they sourced information, I tended to use the Rockfax as well as the definitive guides. In a way they seemed to complement each other and this perceived symbiosis appeared to benefit everyone in the long run. Trepidation because on this occasion, I didn’t know quite what to expect from a guide that tried to do so much and it was also trespassing on some hallowed ground! My first reservation is that the areas covered in “Northern England” do not link in a geographically logical way. Most of the crags in Yorkshire have more affinity to, and are closer to the gritstone edges of the Peak than the remote sandstone outcrops of Northumberland. Apart from that three definitive and up to date guides already cover this large area so what was the raison d’etre for publication of such a wide encompassing volume? Author Chris Craggs, originally from Northumberland, also admits in the acknowledgements that Alan James was unsure when he says he “finally caved in after four years of badgering and agreed the guide would be a good idea” .This suggests a strong reluctance to go down this route and leaves the reader wondering why he changed his mind. Was this hesitance perhaps brought about by the fact that these areas really do not have much in common? Possibly also he was aware that they had strong and fiercely independent climbing communities, and in the main modern and up to date guide books. Maybe also, patching them together was illogical. Even the title “Northern England” requires further explanation in the introduction? At first glance the guide is the usual professional, polished and colourful product we have come to expect from Rockfax. Crag shots are very good as are the photographs but they tend to rely heavily on a few individuals particularly that old Rockfax stalwart Colin Binks. There are also a few of a younger slimmer Chris Craggs in his native “County”. The guide contains a mixture of routes and boulder problems with V grades used for the bouldering. The usual array of well know symbols accompany the route descriptions. Yorkshire takes up about half the book but surprisingly starts with Pule Hill and Shooter’s Nab. Where? I reach for my library as these are not the first places that come to mind with Yorkshire Grit. They are in Yorkshire but they’re in Lancashire Rock! After this puzzling introduction we are soon back to the popular favourites such as Almscliff, Ilkley, Earl, Caley and Crookrise. The crag layouts and photo- diagrams are excellent as we are accustomed to but there appears to be a lack of consistency in the selection of outcrops with boulder problems and those without. At some top bouldering venues, such as Widdop, the reader is referred to the definitive guide, whereas other areas have comprehensive details of problems. Shipley Glen is missing altogether. This makes one wonder what criteria were used for the choice. Still within Yorkshire the guide documents in detail the isolated mainly bouldering outcrop of Crag Willas and Durham’s Goldsborough Carr. The North York Moors section in particular appears to be cherry picking of crags rather than routes, which is almost certainly going to make any future definitive guide for this region a non starter. An area such as this has difficulty warranting a guide of its own anyway as its crags are small and geographically scattered. The main crags at Scugdale, Wainstones and Ravenscar receive full attention while Park Nab and Highcliffe Nab complete the coverage. Strangely the excellent bouldering at Barkers Crag in Scugdale is omitted as are all the other esoteric but beautiful isolated outcrops in this region that are now likely to become forgotten. So on to Northumberland, where my concerns are now beginning to escalate. The introduction begins with a mistake. The author borrows a quote by Geoffrey Winthrop Young, from the most recent climbing guide. This quote has been used in all the definitive guides by the Northumbrian Mountaineering Club since the 1950’s but the last edition had a mistake where the word “county” was used instead of “country”! Rockfax repeat this, a small but telling error. Furthermore this section begins with Causey Quarry which isn’t in Northumberland. That apart the quarry is rarely used these days having long gone out of vogue. Crag Lough, Peel Crag and the major sandstone crags get full treatment. The Bowden’s, Great Wanney, The Simonside’s and the Kyloe’s and even smaller venues such as Corby’s and Berryhill. Only a few minor crags are left out, in fact only a few routes are left out and it would appear that the reasons for this are more to do with page layout than picking quality lines. We are told in the frontispiece that this is “a rock climbing guidebook to selected routes”. It would be interesting to know what has been selected. One gets the impression that the routes have been pulled out of the Northumberland guide wholesale. Some grades have been changed and at Callerhues in particular the authors have taken it upon themselves to adjust the traditional grades “to one more in line with modern thinking”. Sidewalk goes from MVS to HVS and Paving from MVS to E1. The latter is font 4+ in the new bouldering guide. The reason for this is that Callerhues grades have always been contentious. They have little if any protection and the crux is often at the rounded finish. The latest definitive guide did a lot to address the problem but obviously not enough for Messrs Craggs and James. Maybe the author had a hard time, who knows? The bottom line is that most Northumbrians pride themselves on their routes and grades and perhaps it is up to others to rise to their standards as long as they have been forewarned of the grading. Many of these routes can be classed as high ball solos nowadays anyway. Rockfax itself give Crouching the Mahogany E5 6b or V8! It is no higher than many of the other described routes. This policy of upgrading strangely also applies to Second Born a route that is protectable and above a very soft bog, and as far as I am aware has not had a second ascent so how was it graded? I am also aware that I can easily be accused of nit picking but at the risk of this and on delving deeper, we may have a few more insights into the author’s mindset for producing this guide. On pages 346-7 at Kyloe Crag there appears to be a little dig, where First Born E4 6b gets the comment “originally given 7a”. This is obviously gleaned from a mistake that appeared in the Northumbrian Mountaineering Club’s 50th Anniversary celebration book “No Nobler County” in 1995. First Born was in fact given 6a in the 1984 new climbs supplement. One has to question the author’s research, as who in 1980 would claim a 7a? More revealing however is Chris’s Arete where the first ascent is credited to Chris Craggs mid 1970s with the quote “he has to wait 30 years and write his own guidebook to get due recognition”! To claim this minor route at HS 4b is rather strange when in all probability it was done in the1950s, after all Devil’s Edge HVS 5a was done in 1957 and it is unlikely that such an obvious and easy line remained unclimbed until well into the1970s. Perhaps a few axes have been waiting a long time to be ground? Whatever the reasons, mistakes such as these, (and there are many, too many to mention) highlight the shortcomings of the Northumbrian section. In conclusion, “Northern England” is a well produced a guide as you would expect from the Rockfax stable. It will probably prove popular to visitors as it contains a wealth of superb climbs between its covers. If all the information you require is the route, the grade and how to find your way there, it serves its purpose adequately. The dedicated boulderer however will be frustrated as much is missing and the keen local may prefer the greater accuracy, history and coverage provided by the definitive guides. A final but pertinent point is that with this guide Rockfax seems to be entering a new era. A comprehensive all encompassing “selected guide” like this will make the future production of definitive guides more unlikely. Local clubs and climbers who have as previously stated, relied on unpaid volunteers and enthusiasts to research and collate this data will be the victims. These clubs, who plough any profits back into their climbing community, will not have the resources to risk such a venture. The Rockfax data base now contains all this information and it can easily be added to for future publications. The question is will Rockfax also be the stewards for the soul of our sport? If definitive guides suffer, as they are almost certainly going to do in this case, will we be deprived of a rich heritage of our climbing history in the future? With their latest publication Rockfax may have overstepped the mark. Not only have they bitten the hand that feeds them, they could well have eaten the seed corn as well.
Reviewed by Andy Birtwistle July 2008
DEEP WATER
Reviewed
by Karin Magog
ROCK CLIMBING ATLAS REVIEW
Reviewed
by Karin Magog
SPORTCLIMBING+ REVIEW Reviewed by Karin Magog This is an excellent book which contains all the essential information you need for this aspect of the sport. It is divided into twelve sections which cover starting out, gear, ropework, tactics, multi-pitching, onsighting, redpointing, the mind, technique, training, self-care and destinations. Each section is illustrated with plenty of easy to follow diagrams and sketches, breaking the information down into manageable chunks. The book also contains some stunning photographs with climbers operating at all grades, with many of the photos used well to illustrate a particular technique or situation. For a sports climbing novice this book is invaluable, but even experienced sports climbers will find some useful information amongst its pages. The starting out section includes photos and sketches on tying in and that all important threading a lower-off to get back down. In the gear section the art of belaying with a gri-gri is discussed, again with clear photos, and is something that many experienced climbers would find useful. The next section on ropework contains tips that many climbers could benefit from including how to clip, better belaying and stripping a route. The importance of warming up is one of the many useful tactics discussed before the book moves on to describe multi-pitching, on-sighting and red-pointing in more detail. The three sections on technique, the mind and training will help hone your skills and give you the confidence to push your grade. The training section in particular does a good job on explaining the various physical aspects of climbing such as strength, recruitment and the various types of endurance. Each explanation is accompanied by some good suggestions on how each can be improved. The short section on self-care includes some basic info on skin care, injuries and diet, all of which help ensure every subject has been covered and add to the completeness of this publication. The final section on destinations gives some suggestions on what the UK and the rest of the world has to offer the sports climber and includes some useful website addresses. All in all this is an extremely appealing and useful book and should be on the wish list of any sports climber hoping to improve their grade, no matter how experienced.
MALLORCA GUIDE REVIEW
Reviewed by Karin Magog |
