ROSEBERRY TOPPING
O.S.
Sheet 94
NGR 579126
Aspect
South West Facing
Altitude
320m
Approach
time
20 minutes
Situation and Character
This
mini peak is widely known as the ‘Matterhorn of Cleveland’ and requires
little description. Its lofty summit is a popular tourist attraction, providing
unsurpassed views of the region. The main face attracts climbers like a magnet,
unfortunately on closer inspection the soft rock and unstable nature of the face
tends to deter many. However, enjoyable climbing can be found on “The Slab”
at the foot of the main face, and on a small outcrop of good rock at the south
east corner.
History
In
earlier times the Vikings named this ancient landmark Odinsberg – the hill of
Odin – after their sacred god. Earlier still, Iron Age people lived on the
flanks of the hill in several small settlements the outlines of which are still
visible today. Two millennia later in 1880 the second Iron Age began with ore
being mined by the Roseberry Ironstone Company to feed the foundries of nearby
Middlesbrough. Mining ceased in 1920 but the following year this activity was
blamed for the huge landslide that created the hills distinctive shape we see
today.
The
first recorded climbs were the work of Arthur Barker and his brother during the
early 1930s. The Barker’s concentrated their efforts at the outcrop on the
South-East corner climbing three routes, The Groove, Aireyholme Chimney and the
enjoyable Summer House Crack. No further activity was reported until 1958 when
Geoff Fixter and Eric Marr explored the rocks, producing a number of worthwhile
climbs including Walla, The Mantleshelf and Dangle. The pair then turned their
attention to the Main Face, first climbing The Slab routes, and later the
impressive cleft of The Chimney. The center of the Main Face was climbed by
artificial means in the early 1960s and rusting hardwear from that ascent is
still visible today. Tony Marr and Mike Stellings extended an early problem to
create The Boulder during 1962. Colin Read was also active at this time, adding
the popular Captain’s Controversy in 1965. Early in 1967, Tony Marr with
Johnny Adams climbed the impressive off-width crack naming it Eliminator. A few
weeks later accompanied by his brother Eric, he added the companion route
Stimulator. In 1971, Stewart Patterson and Derrick Van Meerbeeck climbed the
edge of a huge pillar that leant against the face, naming it The Joker.
Unfortunately the pillar collapsed in 1979 destroying several climbs including
The Joker and The Chimney.
Chris Woodall added
two interesting routes to the face, first the crack line of Accelerator in 1983
with G. Wheeler, then a companion route Transcendor with Dave McKinney during
1986. Finally, during 2002 will checking this text, Tony Marr found two never
before reported climbs on the SE corner, the bold Thunder Clap and the
interesting Havago. No further climbs have been reported to date.
Access and Approaches
The
crag can be reached from several directions. However, the shortest and most
direct approach is from the car park at the south side of the village of Newton
under Roseberry on the A173, midway between the rural towns of Great Ayton and
Guisborough.
The Climbs:
Main
Face
Even
today this face is prone to subsidence and rock fall that continues to reshape
the face and obliterate the routes. Because of this continued instability, none
of the climbs are recommended, they are included for historical completeness
only.
The
climbs in Red
Italics have collapsed and gone, the remaining climbs have all
suffered some change from rock fall, but still exist [for the moment]!
The
first three described routes began 5m to the left of the obvious square alcove
in the face, at a large free standing block [now
gone]
The
Boulder S
15m
Climb
the block and corner on the left.
Tony
Marr, Mike Stellings 1962.
Direct
Start VS 4m
The groove on the left.
Tony
Marr, Eric Marr 1964.
Captain’s
Controversy HS
15m
Climb
the wide crack to finish.
Colin
Read, Steve Wilson 1965.
1.
Stimulator VS
18m
Over
the roof following twin cracks rightwards.
Tony
& Eric Marr 1967. The crack’s are now gained from the start of Eliminator,
then moving left to join the exit crack’s, at HVS 5a.
2.
Eliminator E2 5b 20m
Climb
the left side of the alcove then finish up the off-width crack above.
Tony Marr, Johnny Adams. May 1967. For its time this route was probably the boldest climb on the NY Moors. The strenuous crack was led on-sight, protected by one poor runner low down. The ascent was made wearing a mountain boot on one foot, “because it helped fill the crack”! After the ascent, Adams stated the climb was comparable with another Yorkshire test piece, Fork Lightning Crack, which he had climbed a few weeks earlier.
"John Redhead and myself made an early repeat of Eliminator but Pete Whillance, when he lived in the Hull area (running a fish & chip shop I believe!), had already done it several years before us. We knew Dave Biggs, who was the second, but Whillance had left the Hull area by the time we were active" Chris Shorter
The
next route starts from the top of the large blocks at the summit of The Slab.
3.
Artificial
Route VS A2
22m
From
the top of the blocks, climb directly up the centre of the face.
Climbers
not recorded. Early 1960s. The line of original rusty gear is still visible.
Climbed by a combination of “free moves” between pegs and bolts.
Immediately
to the right of the last route and The Slab used to stand a large pillar [gone]. The pillar formed a chimney
with the face….
The
Chimney VD 22m
Follow
the cleft throughout.
Geoff
Fixter, Eric Marr. 1959. A popular and enjoyable climb until its collapse.
The
Joker E1 5b 25m
Climb
the wall and right of the chimney then follow a groove onto the right arete to
finish. Bold, exposed and poorly
protected.
Stewart
Patterson, Derrick Van Meerbeeck. 3rd. June 1972. The massive pillar collapsed
in May 1979.
The
next climbs started to the right of The Slab below the pillar……..
Chaos
Crack MVS
20m
The
left hand crack to finish up the corner on the right.
Geoff
Fixter, Eric Marr 1962.
Lynn
HS 17m
The
crack on the right, then finish rightwards.
Tony
Marr, Eric Marr 1964.
When the pillar collapsed a
prominent forked crack line was exposed on the main face. The left hand crack is
the line of ……
4.
Transcendor HVS 5b 20m
Gain
and climb a line of shallow grooves and finger cracks slanting leftwards, finish
over the final roof.
Chris
Woodall, Dave McKinney 1986.
5.
Accelerator HVS 5b 20m
The
right hand crack line to a finish over the difficult overhang.
Chris
Woodall, G. Wheeler 1983.
The Slab
This
is the name given to the large angled pillar lying against the Main Face. The
two routes described are worthwhile.
6.
Slab
Route (Ordinary) 11m VD
Start
at the base of the slab under an overhang. Cross a small slab rightwards to the
corner. Step over a small overhang then move diagonally left to a wide ledge.
Finish up the middle of the slab.
Geoff
Fixter, Eric Marr 1958.
7.
Slab Route (Direct) 11m VS 4c
Start
at the base of the slab below a groove in the overhang. Climb the groove direct
with difficulty to a ledge. Finish up the middle of the slab.
Geoff
Fixter, Eric Marr 1958.
The South-East Corner
This
small outcrop lies to the right of the Main Face on the corner facing Easby Moor
[Captain Cook’s Monument]. The rock here is good quality sandstone. The climbs
are described from left to right.
8.
The
Groove 10m
D
Start
at the south corner. Gain the ledge on the left by the crack, ascend the narrow
slab above, the angle of which eases towards the top.
Arthur
Barker and his brother. Early 1930’s.
9.
Walla 7m HS 4b
Start
2m right of The Groove. Climb the shallow depression in the wall using a series
of holes. Enjoyable.
Geoff
Fixter, Eric Marr 1958.
10.
Thunder
Clap 7m HVS
5b
Climb
the pockets and slots on the wall just right of Walla. A long reach helps!
Tony
Marr 7th.August 2002. The climb was finished seconds before a mighty crack of
thunder and torrential rain stopped
play.
11.
Summer
House Crack 7m HVD
Start
in the corner right of Walla. A short cleft leads to the awkward final crack.
Arthur
Barker and his brother. Early 1930’s.
12.
The
Mantleshelf 4m
VS 4c
Around
the corner 3m right of the last climb is an obvious curving ledge on the wall.
Gain the ledge and climb to the top. Problematic.
Geoff
Fixter, Eric Marr 1958.
13.
The
Cleft 4m
HS 4b
Climb
the left-hand of two cracks, 2m right of The Mantleshelf.
Eric
Marr, Geoff Fixter 1958.
14.
Aireyholme
Chimney 5m D
The
obvious chimney just right of The Cleft.
Arthur
Barker and his brother. Early 1930’s.
15.
Havago 5m VS
5a
Climb
the peg scarred crack just right of the chimney. [Any use of the chimney is
cheating].
Chris Shorter, John Redhead 1975 both solo
16.
Neb 5m S
Start
1m to the right of the last climb. Layback the flake to gain the ledge or, start
up the nose on the right, escape up the slab above.
Eric
Marr, Geoff Fixter 1958.
Around
the corner from The Neb is….
17.
The
Alcove Left-Hand 4m HD
Climb
the left-hand corner of the alcove.
Geoff
Fixter, Eric Marr 1958.
18.
The
Alcove Right-Hand 4m VD
The
crack in the right corner.
Eric
Marr, Geoff Fixter 1958.
19.
Dangle 5m HS 4b
Start
about 3m right of the last climb. Gain a horizontal crack and hand traverse left
along the lip of the overhang until it is possible to reach holds leading to the
top.
Variation:
Climb straight up the shallow groove at the start.
VS 4c.
Direct
Start: Climb straight up to join the normal finish.
VS 4c.
Geoff
Fixter, Eric Marr 1958.
A
few metres below the SE Corner lies a short wall bearing a sculptured face. An
obvious crack provides an interesting climb but it does have an
unpleasant exit onto shale. HVD. 1960s.
The
boulders below the Main Face have been climbed upon for decades and provide
numerous problems. None of the problems however, justify detailed description,
it is left instead for climbers to explore and discover for themselves.