Map Reference: NZ043887
Altitude: 235m
Aspect: west facing
Approach: 10 minutes
Situation and Character
The crag is in a superb situation with a fantastic outlook framed by the Simonside Hills in the distance. The rock is generally rough gritstone and the climbing is characterized by slopers and shallow pockets. The crag lies about 2 miles north of Scots gap. Most of the routes lie upon the large buttress split by a prominent crack, which is clearly visible from the road. This is Rothley Crack. The crag it self has a northwesterly aspect and enjoys the sun from 5.30pm during summer evenings. The extensive bouldering is spread from out across the hillside. All the boulders can be seen from the main road. Added interest is provided by the intriguing folly 100 metres or so to the east of the main crag. The folly has recently seen renovation work by the new owners the National Trust.
History
Though Jack Longland mentioned the crag briefly in an article in 1928, the first route recorded here was Rothley Crack climbed by him in 1940. This excellent line, which still demands respect, may well have been the hardest climb in the county at that time. Little else was recorded until a concerted effort in the early 1980’s by Martin Doyle, Karl Telfer and friends produced a number of routes culminating in the bold and difficult Master Blaster led by Don Barr. This was followed by Bob Smith and John Earl’s ascent of Muscular Eruption and finally Hugh Harris’s lead on The Taste of Someone Else. Richard Davies was very active in the late 1980s with many lines both on the main crag and also developed many other smaller buttresses. More recent additions in 2000 include Masterstroke by Steve Crowe and particularly the difficult Masterclass and the serious Masterblaster Aręte by Andrew Earl. 2002 saw Karin Magog and Steve Crowe add Swing Time and Jane Lies Agape to Tarzan Buttress and finally Cattleburners to the main buttress during the Foot and Mouth outbreak.
Approaches and Access
Turn off the A696 at Belsay and head north past Scots Gap in the direction of Rothbury. The crag will appear on the right 2 miles north of Scots Gap. Although the crag lies about 100 metres from the road and can be reached in minutes. Parking is provided in a lay by at the cross roads just north of the crag. There is also limited parking in a small lay by at the south end of the crag but take care as this is on a dangerous bend. Climbers have agreed not to park on the brow of the hill opposite the main crag because of the danger to passing traffic and farm vehicles which frequent this. There is a right of access under CROW.
The Climbs
The extensive bouldering and many routes are all recorded together in one guide for the first time. The climbs are described from left to right in three sections (north, central and south).
Rothley North
Twilight Boulder Area
These are the most northerly cluster of boulders and are adjacent to the woods.
1. The Crimper V3 6a
A left to right traverse of the lip on small holds to finish with hands beyond the wide crack. Feet above the break/ledge.
2. Suitable for Vegetarians V4 6b
SS on small boulder. Traverse left to right to finish up the right-hand side.
Twilight Boulder
Above and behind the first problems.
3. Twilight Boulder Top V1 5b
L-R with hands on the lip of the boulder.
4. Twilight Boulder Break V2 5c
Start at the right –hand end on slopers then traverse left to gain the lower break which is followed to the end.
Pear Drop Blocks
5. Pear Drop Boulder Over V3 6a
SS. Traverse the lip into the groove and mantel to finish just before the lower boulder. Back watcher needed!
6. Pear Drop Boulder Under V0 5a
Start under the roof with feet on the upper boulder, pull into the notch and mantel to finish.
The Roof Area
The impressive square cut buttress. Many other variations have been reported.
7. Roof Crack V3 6a
Start at the back of the roof. Follow the wide crack to a pinch flake and then jug to gain a standing position on the flutings. Reverse and drop off or traverse right.
8. Roof Variant V3 6a
Start at the left side with feet on the ledge. Cross the roof on underclings to gain the wide crack, finish as for previous problem.
9. Roof Highball V3 6a ?
Start at the right side and gain the hanging groove, continue boldly to top?
10. Roof Sidewall V3 6a
Start at the right side and climb the aręte and wall right of the hanging groove.
Many other variations have been reported.
Small Block
Just right of the square cut roof.
11. Warm Up V0 5a
Start at the left aręte. Traverse the high break and return using holds below the break.
Split Lips Block
12. Cave Problem V2 5c
SS in the cave, pull out then up the wall moving slightly right to finish just left of the nose.
13. Problem V1 5b
SS to the right of the cave. Pull into the pocketed break, then up to the prominent nose to a mantel finish.
14. Lips Traverse V4 6b
SS on a boulder at the left end. Traverse easily along the break then drop down to a pinch, heel hook the rim past a poor pocket to pinch “The Lips”, surmount the rounded aręte and stand on the ledge to finish.
15. Split Lips V3 6a
SS with feet on the back wall, hands on the flake. Reach the lip and struggle to gain the slab.
Yorkshire 8A Area
Many variations have been reported only the best lines are described here.
Born on the Tyne Block
16. LH Problem V1 5b
SS at the left hand end.
17. Problem V2 5c
SS on grass ledge, traverse the boulder R-L on crimps to finish at left aręte.
18. Born on the Tyne V6 6c
SS on grass ledge. Traverse the lip rightwards to shot hole, continue past crack to aręte. Finish low down.
19. Pocket Problem V2 5c
SS under the pocket.
20. Short Crack V1 5b
The short crack at the right-hand side.
Yorkshire 8A Block
21. Yorkshire 7A V2 5c
The smaller lip below and behind the classic lip traverse.
22. Yorkshire 8A V6 6b
The ultimate Rothley traverse. Start off the boulder at the left hand end traverse the lip to the top right hand end.
23. Yorkshire 8A+ V7 6b
A feat of endurance. Start in the corner and traverse right to join Yorkshire 8A, Follow this but finish with a mantel at the end.
24. Yorkshire Roof V4 6b
From a broken flake climb out to and over the lip.
25. Problem V3 6a
From a sharp hold and undercling reach out to lip then shuffle left to mantel.
26. In the Corner V6 6c
Start in the right-hand corner at the back of the roof. Climb out then mantel the lip using the hole.
27. Northern Buns V1 5b
Mantel using the obvious baps.
28. Highland Rolls V2 5c
Mantel using the other obvious baps!
Upper Blocks
These are above and behind Yorkshire 8A. The first two problems traverse the smaller left hand block.
29. Golden Days V3 6a
SS at left side of the roof. Heelhook right to the nose and mantel to finish.
30. Last Rays V3 6a
SS at right side of the roof. Traverse left to nose and mantel to finish.
31. Scooped Wall V3 6a
Boldly climb the centre of the scooped wall.
32. Andrew’s Aręte V4 6b
SS on the right side, climb the aręte.
33. Another Aręte V3 6a
The undercut aręte.
34. Traverse Problem V3 6a
Starting from the “Dick “ below the roof, traverse the bottom break L-R then up to the top break and back left along this to grab the bread buns and finish with a mantel.
The Nose Area
A cluster of boulders situated 30m right of Yorkshire 8A area.
35. The Face VB 4b
The left side of the slab.
36. Carved in Stone VB 4c
Climb the centre of the slab.
37. The Gaze VB 4b
The right hand aręte of the slab
The next block is a few metres down to the right.
38. The Feint Crease V2 5c
SS at the right hand aręte, move left to a feint crease and follow this upwards to gain slopers and finish with a mantel at the good hold just before the crack.
39. Mantel Starter VB 4a
SS then mantel finish.
40. The Rising V2 5c
SS. A rising traverse with a mantel to finish.
Set back behind these boulders on the left is a small wall with some very easy problems. The next problem described starts in the recess on the right.
41. The Nose V4 6b
A R-L traverse. Start at the top of the gully, traverse down and swing around the nose. Gain the wall awkwardly (the top is out of bounds) and traverse this to finish with a bounce to the large jug on the lip.
42. Problem VB 4b
A R-L traverse up the next block to mantel finish.
43. Problem V2 5c
SS pull up over the bulge to a mantle finish.
44. Problem V3 6a
SS pull up the wall on poor crimps to a mantle finish.
45. Problem V2 5c
SS below a fluting at the right hand end of the boulder. Climb up to reach the top break; traverse this leftwards down hill until it is possible to mantel onto the slab.
The Arch Area
Situated 50m right of The Nose Area.
46. Arch Boulder V3 6a
SS at the bottom right hand end of the boulder with feet adjacent block. Make difficult moves across the front of the boulder to gain the left aręte move round this and then more easily up the left hand side of the boulder, over the arch to finish with a mantel at the left hand end. Starting from the aręte provides a pleasant VB 4b.
Flat Pan Boulder
Situated 20m up and right of the Arch Boulder.
47. Flat Pan traverse V4 6a
Start with feet on the small wall at the left hand end, traverse right to the crack (standing rest reduces the grade) continue traversing around the widest section of the roof using heel hooks.
48. Flat Pan Roof LH V4 6b
Cross the roof from the left hand side.
49. Flat Pan Roof RH V3 6a
Cross the roof from the right hand side.
The Arętes Area
To the left of the valley that leads to the folly and facing the main crag. This is the most popular bouldering area at Rothley and it is starting to show. Consider exploring some of the other hidden gems that are described in this guide.
50. Up Problem V4 6b ?
Start in the middle of the overhanging wall and mantel on to the slab?
51. Traverse Problem V4 6b
Start from the toe of the slab at the left hand side. Traverse the overhanging wall around the blunt aręte to gain the slabby wall which leads to the corner.
52. Hanging Aręte V3 6a
Rothley warm up. The left wall reduces the grade to VB.
53. Sitting Aręte V4 6b
SS. A number a variations are possible, all are hard and the left wall is definitely out of bounds now!
54. Feint Edge V4 6b
The wall just right of the aręte. Layback the feint edge. No bridging.
55. The Groove VB 4c
Not quite as easy as it looks.
56. The Rounded Aręte V3 6a
The aręte can be climbed on either side and from a sitting start all at the same grade.
57. Thin Edge Wall V3 6a
SS. The wall just right of the rounded aręte on very small crimps. Easier (but poorer) start stepping in off the ledge just to the right.
58. Stepped Wall V2 5c
Starting at a higher level, easily gain the stepped ledge and continue to a nasty finish!
59. The Short Wall V2 5c
A short problem 1m to the right. Other short up problems are possible further right.
60. Steady Eddie V3 5c
A R-L traverse of the Arętes Area at a high level.
61. Low Level Traverse V5 6b
SS left of the Hanging Aręte. Traverse at a low level beneath Hanging Aręte, across the groove and past the rounded aręte to finish up Thin Edge Wall.
Warm Up Wall
Positioned immediately in front of the classic aręte problems.
62. Warm Up Wall Traverse V2 5c
A L-R traverse finishing past the crack (then reverse back to the start!).
63. Warm Up V3 6a?
Start in the shallow cave in the middle of the overhanging wall and mantel on to the slab?
Pockets Wall
The prominent pocketed wall can be climbed by a variety of up problems but these have been left to your imagination.
64. Slopers Traverse V3 5c
The popular L-R boulder top traverse finish around the corner with feet on the boulder to the side.
65. More Sloper Action V5 6a
Reverse Slopers Travers and continue across to the next boulder and the smaller adjoining block then finish with a mantel at the capstone.
66. Pockets Wall Traverse V3 5c
Start as for Slopers Traverse to a flat hold then cross beneath the lip on pockets, avoiding the crack to reach the right aręte. Gaining the pockets around the corner is difficult and dangerous. A difficult start avoiding the Slopers Traverse is V6 6b.
Rothley Central
Rothley Crag
The climbs are described from left to right beginning at the obvious thin crack, which gives the first route.
67. Shades of Green 5m VS 4b
The thin crack.
68. After the Blast 6m E1 5c
The pod round to the left of Master Blaster is climbed to the overhang; move over this then step back right onto the slab and to the top.
69. Water Torture 13m E6 6b
Start up After the Blast but step right to the large hole. Move up and rightwards across the wall towards a good hole. Pull straight up from this.
70. Volante 15m E6 6b
Left of the aręte of Master Blaster. Climb to the left side of the obvious hole. Pull up and across right to join Master Blaster just before the crux.
71. Master Blaster 15m E5/6 6a
This bold and technical classic takes the blunt aręte left of Rothley Crack. Start at the lowest point of the crag about 3 metres right of the aręte. Climb to the diagonal break on small holds; move up to a pocket (Cam), traverse left to the aręte and climb to the top using the flute.
72. Master Blaster Aręte 15m E7 6c
This serious route provides excellent climbing directly up the blunt aręte of Master Blaster. Gain the ledge immediately beneath the aręte. The routes only protection can be placed from this ledge; it is good in the break at foot level but very poor just above it. The first few moves above the ledge are the hardest. The technical difficulty eases when MB is reached but the seriousness increases.
73. Actioning Nothing 15m E5 6b
Follow Master Blaster to the flat hold. From where Master Blaster moves left climb direct up the wall to reach the obvious hole and pull past this to the top.
74. Masterstroke 15m E4 6b
Follow Master Blaster to the flat hold. From where Master Blaster moves left, step up and right (crucial small slider to left) then continue direct via a long reach to pockets and edges to the upper break and good protection (small cams) and finish direct.
The next route climbs the vague rib.
75. Masterclass 15m E7 6c
Start midway between Rothley Crack and the aręte of Master Blaster and climb up to good gear in the break. Follow the vague rib direct past a small side pull for your right hand and make two or three hard moves going straight up on several poor slopers to a sloping pocket in the upper break. Finish direct.
76. The Taste of Someone Else 14m E5 6b
Start 3 metres left of Rothley Crack. Climb easily up to the horizontal break, stand up and move slightly right, then climb the wall above past a small pocket to the next break. Move left to a good pocket and pull over the top (no side runners).
77. Rothley Crack 14m VS 5a
The crack up the centre of the wall. A superb classic line, which provides the best route on the crag.
78. Muscular Eruption 25m E3 5c
A very good right to left, high level traverse from Rothley Crack to Master Blaster about 2˝ metres below the top of the crag. Well protected with Friends and nuts.
79. The Cattle Burners 15m E4 6a
Start as for Dog Burners Direct. Continue straight up avoiding the crack on the left and the main runnel of Dogburner on the right. Finish direct.
80. Dogburner 12m E4 5c
Start 3 metres right of Rothley Crack. Climb to the crack in the overlap and up to a ledge. Reach left for finger holds, then using holds on both sides of the main runnel climb up to the top.
Dogburner Direct Start E3 6a
Reach the runnel direct.
Make sure you have inspected and brushed the top holds before setting out on the following two bold routes.
81. Deerkiller 11m E2 5b
Start 2 metres right of Dogburner. Climb up to a halfway runnel. Continue up the wall to rightward trending ledges and past these to an awkward pull over at the top.
82. The Fort 11m E3 5b
The wall between Deerkiller and the right aręte, passing a cluster of four pockets. Climb up to the grassy ledge then straight up to a flat hold and rounded finish.
83. Walton's Wall 10m VS 4c
Start right of the four pockets (The Fort) and just left of the aręte. Make a hard move past the large intrusion to reach the break. Continue using the aręte with right hand to a well protected finish.
84. Spirit 8m VS 4c
The right aręte is gained off the adjacent block. A direct start stepping of the ground is possible at 6a.
85. For Your Eyes Only 8m VS 4c
The wall and blunt aręte right of Spirit.
86. Sally 8m S
Climb into the cave right of For Your Eyes Only and exit using the thin left-hand crack.
87. Viper Crack 5m E2 6a
Climb the thin crack in the roof opposite Sally. An enormous reach is needed at the top.
88. Longland’s Traverse 30m VS 4c
Start on the left of the main face. Follow the main fault rightwards to Rothley Crack follow this for 2 metres then move below the flutes and follow the ledges to finish up Spirit.
Rothley Crag Bouldering (p161)
The problems on and around the main crag. The front (north) face provides a good warm up area with interesting traverses at a variety of levels.
89. East Wall Traverse V3 6a
Start below Masterblaster Aręte and traverse the east wall R-L low down past a fluting to the aręte.
90. Spirit Sit Start V3 6a
Effectively a SS to Spirit.
91. AB’s Problem V6 6c
The test piece under the right side of Rothley Crag.
92. Long Reach V5 6c
SS beneath the roof at a small pocket. From this gain a sloper at the lip and then the break above to finish.
93. Problem V2 5c
Hand traverse the break below the top L-R to gain the aręte, mantel to finish.
94. Noel’s Aręte V4 6b
Climb the blunt aręte using the prominent horn feature.
95. Up Problem V3 6a
Mantel the break to gain a high pocket, step left to gain the top.
96. A&A Boulder V3 6a
The traverse.
97. A&A Boulder variation V4 6a
Staying on the top all the way up then reverse the normal traverse.
Doom and Gloom Area
The rocks below the main crag.
98. Gloom V6 6b
SS in the gully. From good hold traverse up and left to finish by topping out on the left.
It is also possible to climb straight up from the start of Gloom at V3 5c.
99. Doom V3 6a
Start below the ledge and climb the aręte.
100. Out of the Dark V1 5b
A R-L traverse of the break from the start of Doom to finish up the right aręte.
101. Death or Glory V4 6b
Climb the wall crossing two breaks to an undercut boss for the right hand which enables the top to be reached.
102. Problem V0 5a
SS rising traverse up the aręte to the top of the boulder.
103. Problem V0 5a
SS Hands on two low holds then up to mantel finish.
104. Problem V1 5b
SS in the niche, up the aręte then finish on the slab.
The Lower Buttress
The following climbs are on the lower buttress below the main face.
105. Brave Face 8m E1 5c
Climb the shallow, green groove behind the boulder near the left-hand end. The crux is reaching the large hole.
106. Victim of Despair 8m HVS 5a
Start on the right side of the aręte to the right and make a long reach for the break. Continue using pockets to finish up the slab.
107. Early Days 8m HVS 5a
Climb the centre of the wall on the right using pockets.
108. The Right Side 8m HVS 5a
Climb the right side of the wall via a large pocket.
109. Problem V1 5b
SS left of the aręte then traverse the wall (at low level?).
Triple Buttress Area (p164)
110. Dwarf’s Delight V2 5c
Traverse to bottom of the small boulder, almost impossible for grown ups!
111. Problem V0 5a
Traverse the slab with hands behind your head.
112. The Beehive V2 5c
SS with hands on the baps. Traverse R-L around the nose and continue across the wall with hands below the top to finish by a mantel when hands pass the diagonal fold.
113. Triple Buttress V3 6a
Start at the left end of the bottom break. Traverse right to the crack pull up to the middle break and move back left. Gain the good jug on the top level and traverse back right past the crack to an awkward finish on poor holds (no standing on the middle ledge).
Three straight ups from SS are possible from 4b to 5b
114. Crevasse Boulder V4 6b
Start at the right with feet on the boulder, traverse across the line of flat holds to the nose. Gain the aręte with difficulty (the top is not in). Traverse back right to finish on the slab but without standing on the boulder.
115. Problem V3 6a
SS beneath the boulder, with hands on the flake. Climb out to the lip move right and mantel to finish.
116. Ray Traverse V4 6b
SS with hands in the moon shaped feature on the slab. Heek hook and slap the whole way to finish with a mantel, the wall at the back being out of bounds. An alternative method is to allow the back wall but no heel hooking at all?
117. Troys Problem
Add Troys problem here.
The Black Hole
An almost hidden slot with a large fox hole at the bottom.
118.Oblivion V2 5c
SS over the fox hole with hands on the lowest point of the curving break make a long move to gain the top.
119.The Black Hole V3 6a
Start on the top of the boulder on the left side. Drop down using the rounded knob to gain good holds with difficulty. Cross Oblivion and continue up the curving break to good holds. Reach a good crimp then the top.
John’s Wall
120. The Missing Link V3 6a
The arch typical Rothley boulder problem, AKA John’s Wall traverse. Start with feet on the adjacent boulder at the left end. Hand traverse around the nose to a break. Pull up and continue to traverse up the lip of the boulder until it meets the hill side.
121.Variation finish V4 6b
Start as for The Missing Link but finish with a mantel just before the hillside.
122.Variation finish V4 6b
Start as for The Missing Link but finish via a mantel at the nobble.
123. Up Pockets V3 6a
SS just left of the boulder, use pockets only to reach the top.
124. No Pockets V3 6a
SS just left of the boulder, use break to reach the top.
No Mans Land
125. Workie Ticket V5 6b
Another typical Rothley traverse. A classic of the genre. Start at the left end on a large hold. Crimp across the initial wall on small edges, continue on slopers on the lip of the boulder. Finish at the right hand end beyond the crack. The extended finish continues around the next block to finish with a mantel at V6 6b.
126. Out of Work V1 5b
Start as for Workie Ticket but climb straight up the aręte.
127. Radgey Gadgey V4 6b
From a SS at the back of the boulder climb out across the roof using the large flake. Mantel to finish.