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OS Landranger
Sheet: 100
Map Reference:
SE511815
Aspect: West/North West Facing
Altitude: 280m
Approach: 10 minutes
This crag is very prominent to the south from the top of Sutton Bank where it
borders the Gliding Club. It is about 100m long and 35m high. Many routes have
been climbed but due to the friable nature of the rock none have become popular.
"I did a few recorded FA's here with Tony ( Ingram and Marr). Tony Marr went on
to do a load more I recall. In those days I think we thought (Fowleresquely )
that the steeper and looser the better!" Rick Graham
"I've talked to Chris Woodall, who put up many of
the routes at Roulston and he doesn't recommend it- sounds like he nearly died
there and he is the master of choss." Franco Cookson
"About 10 routes were reported in Mountain Life in the early 1970's and I seem
to remember that the route descriptions were published in the 1974 Cleveland
Club journal. The routes saw very little traffic due to poor rock and vegetation
and the last 30 years won't have helped. You could better use your time
elsewhere." Jimmy
The
following list has been taken from the Cleveland Mountaineering Club Journal of
1974.
Note: No technical grades are listed….all these routes were climbed before the
introduction of technical grades in the mid 1970’s. The climbs are comparable to
those at Whitestone Cliff. The crag consists of four main buttresses, separated
by short walls or gullies. Approach the crag from the “White Horse” car park,
along the forestry track. The climbs begin at the first sizeable outcrop above
the forestry track.
The Climbs
The climbs are listed right to left.
Buttress No. 1
Easy Gully 10m D
The obvious gully 6m left from the edge of the buttress.
FA. Tony & Eric Marr April 1971.
Sculptured Chimney 13m VD
The chimney 6m left of Easy Gully.
FA. Tony Marr, Ken Austin 14th. May 1971.
Situated 20m further left is:-
Buttress No.2
Deception 6m VD
Rising from the gully is a prominent chimney. Climb the chimney until it is
possible to exit left under overhanging blocks. A short crack leads to a large
ledge, finish up the aręte.
FA. Tony & Eric Marr June 1970.
Sennapod Crack 20m HVS
The crack behind the pinnacle 3m left of the last climb. Climb the corner
into a vee-groove. Exit right and finish up the aręte. Bold. You won’t need to
take Sennapod after this one!
FA. Ken Jackson, Tony Marr June 1970. [The first
recorded climb on the crag].
30m. further left is….
Buttress No.3
Chaos 20m HS
Climb the corner and gully above.
FA. Tony Ingram, Rick Graham 1971
Chaos - Variation Start 11m HS
Start up the corner 3m right of the ordinary start. Traverse left at half
height to join the gully.
FA. Tony & Eric Marr 1971
Elderberry Crack 24m VS
The crack 3m left of Chaos. Climb the crack direct until it joins
ledges. Move left around the corner to finish up a short corner.
FA. Tony Marr, Rick Graham, Tony Ingram 1971
Mockery Grooves 27m HS
Start 12m left of Elderberry Crack at a chimney/groove. Climb
the chimney passing behind the chock stone. Finish up the right hand branch.
FA. Tony Ingram, Rick Graham 20th.December 1971
The next climbs, although short, involve 30m of climbing due to a grass rake on
which the climbs finish.
Old Crack 13m Severe
Climb the corner crack 10m left of Mockery Grooves.
FA. Tony Marr, Ken Austin 1971
Fleet Footer 13m HS
The crack 3m left of Old Crack.
FA. Tony & Eric Marr 1971
Stump Crack 15m VS
The curving crack 4m left of the previous climb.
FA. Tony & Eric Marr 1971
30m. further left and just before No.4 Buttress is a small outcrop with a
prominent chimney. This is Ivy Groove.
Ivy Groove 12m Severe
The prominent chimney.
FA. Tony & Eric Marr 1971
Buttress No.4
Hidden Corner 12m Severe
This is the first climb on No.4 Buttress. Start left of the descent gully
behind an elderberry bush. Climb the corner crack throughout.
FA. Tony & Eric Marr 1971
Inscription Crack 24m VD
The prominent cave / crack 3m left of the last climb. Climb the crack,
finish up the gully.
FA. York Scout Group 1971
Spiral Stair 30m VS
Start 8m left of the previous climb. Climb ledges leading leftwards to a vee-block
overhang. Surmount the overhang and follow the groove / crack to a terrace.
Finish up a short chimney.
FA. Tony Marr, Ken Jackson 1972.
The next climb lies 60m further left, just past an ivy wall, and follows a
prominent chimney / cave.
Mal’s Route 18m Diff
Climb the chimney internally.
FA. Malcolm Richardson and party. 9th January 1972
Leaning Block Chimney 14m VD
The chimney, around the corner, 7m left of Mal’s Route. Climb
the chimney and exit left beneath the chock stone.
FA. Tony & Eric Marr 1971
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