ROUND CRAG - BLAKEY RIDGE, FARNDALE
O.S. Sheet 94 SE676994
Aspect South West
Altitude 350m
Approach time 10 minutes
Situation and Character
The crag is in a pleasant situation on the edge of Blakey Ridge, overlooking Farndale. The Lion Inn is a popular destination as it offers good Bar Meals and real ale.
History
The crag was first visited by Steve Brown and Dave Paul who climbed some arête’s and crack lines then Tony Marr made a visit in the mid 1980s with Paul Ingham, Ian Dunn, Nick Dixon and Simon Walker. The first recorded activity was by Adam van Lopik in 1996 with friends and Steve Crowe visited the crag on 16th March 1997 with Karin Magog to develop Lion Inn Buttress. Adam van Lopik dithered while Sarah Normington romped up her route on 5th April 1997. Sarah and Adam returned with Tim Fish in 2000 to complete the development of Flake Buttress. Steve Crowe and Karin Magog climbed the well-protected prominent groove of Time Out and the bold unprotected Telescopic in July 2002. Nick Dixon left his calling card during a visit home in October 2002 with his bold headpoint of Scut de Scun ai which is Japanese for what will be will be.
Access and Approaches
This accessible crag is not visible from the road. The best approach is from the Lion Inn. Follow the wall and continue in a southwesterly direction. Cross the old railway and continue downwards and the crag will soon be encountered. 10 minutes from the Lion Inn.
The Climbs
These are described from right to left.
Flake Buttress
25m south of the Pinnacle is a small buttress with a prominent flake crack.
1. Wander 5m S
Climbs the right-hand arête on its right-hand side. Finish with interest to the right of the boulder.
2. Flake Crack 5m VD
Climbs the flake crack to the left of the blank wall
Sarah Normington, Adam van Lopik 5th April 1997
3. Ditheralot 6m HVS 5c
Climbs the wall 3m left of the flake (2m to the right of Ditherytoo).
Tim Fish 26th July 2000
4. Ditherytoo 5m HVS 5a
Climbs the arête 5m left of the flake.
Adam van Lopik 26th July 2000
Immediately south of the Pinnacle is a buttress with a rounded arête. Bring a belay stake for these climbs!
5. Dirty Girl 5m VS 5a
Climbs the first small pillar directly.
Sarah Normington 26th July 2000
6. Slippery Nipple 4m VS 5a
Climbs the small pillar 2m right of Sarah’s Route.
Tim Fish 26th July 2000
7. Sarah’s Route 5m VD
Starts 3m right of the arête. Climb up with a tricky move to gain a ledge. Move left and finish left of the dead tree.
Sarah Normington, Adam van Lopik 5th April 1997
8. Dither 5m E2 6a **
Climbs the left-hand arête direct with a hard move on to the top slab. Excellent protection where you need it most.
Adam van Lopik, Sarah Normington 5th April 1997
Round Crag Pinnacle
9. Honey Arête 8m E5 6b ***
Start on squelchy ground below the east arête. Some very small RPs may offer some protection. A bold unprotected route.
Adam van Lopik 19th September 1997
On the first ascent I pre-placed some VERY poor small RPs in a pocket at just below half height. These might protect the hardest move but not the thin top out moves.
10. Octopet 8m E4 6b *
The thin slab to the left can be climbed direct. Not as escapable as it looks…
Adam van Lopik 10th November 1996
11. Just Green 5m HVD
Climb the pillar on its right-hand side.
Jim Strange 19th September 1997
12. Pillar Torque 5m VD
Climb the front of the small pillar direct.
13. Giant Smarties 5m HVD
The pillar on its left-hand side.
Dave Lavallee 19th September 1997
The next blocks form an arch against the south face.
14. Archway 5m S
Climb the perched blocks until it is possible to step right near the top.
15. Telescopic 5m E4 5c
An unprotectable eliminate that climbs the rib just left of the perched blocks.
Steve Crowe 10th July 2002 solo
16. Picnic @ Hanging Rock 5m MXS 4c
The dusty groove in the centre of the south face is unlikely to become popular.
Jeff Snoxell 14th July 1996
Epic on sight solo wearing ski goggles, which just happened to be in the top of his sac. Jeff topped out totally covered in dirt having pulled loads of muck and chock stones out of the crack. The first route on the crag.
17. Scut de Scun ai 5m E6 6b **
The unprotectable shallow groove.
Nick Dixon 19th October 2002 solo after top rope practice.
Nick Dickson on the first ascent of Scut de Scun ai E6 6b solo
18. Time Out 5m E3 6a ***
Climb the prominent and well-protected groove (small wires), to step left at the top.
Steve Crowe, Karin Magog 10th July 2002 Both led on sight.
19. Farndale Fayre 5m E5 6b **
Start below the west arête. A hard protectable crux (zero friend) leads to a bold finish.
Steve Crowe 10th November 1996 Abseil pre inspection.
19a. Pippi Longstocking 5m E5 6c **
Technical moves may lead to the pocket. A wild lunge from here should gain the right facing corner above.
Ed Brown 10th May 2003 solo after top roped practice.
The North arête has only been top roped.
“Only top roped. The grade would be E3 6b” Adam van Lopik.
Lion Buttress
Five hundred metres west is a steep clean buttress with a prominent roof at the left end split by twin cracks.
20. Kitten VS 5a
A right to left traverse of the buttress, finish past the tree. Start beneath the righthand groove line. Climb up to the break and traverse left for about 7m until the top can be gained easily.
Steve Crowe, Karin Magog 16th March 1997
21. The Big Cat 8m E2 6a **
Follow the slender groove/scoop at the right edge of the buttress.
Steve Crowe, Karin Magog 16th March 1997
22. The Lioness 8m HVS 5b
Start just right of the roof, continue to the top.
Steve Crowe, Karin Magog 16th March 1997
23. Twin Cracks 8m HVS 5b
Well protected climbing up the twin cracks.
Steve Crowe, Karin Magog 16th March 1997
24. Kitty 8m VS 4b
Climb the scoop and slab at the left end of the buttress.
Steve Crowe, Karin Magog 16th March 1997
Full details in the
North East England Guide