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ROUND CRAG - BLAKEY RIDGE, FARNDALE
OS Landranger
Sheet: 94
Map Reference:
SE676994
Aspect:
South West
Altitude:
350m
Approach: 10 minutes
History
The crag was first visited by Steve Brown and Dave Paul who climbed
some arête’s and crack lines then Tony Marr made a visit in the mid 1980s
with Paul Ingham, Ian Dunn, Nick Dixon and Simon Walker. The first recorded
activity was by Adam van Lopik in 1996 with friends and Steve Crowe visited the
crag in 1997 with Karin Magog to develop Lion Inn Buttress. Adam van Lopik
dithered while Sarah Normington romped up her route in 1997. Sarah and Adam
returned with Tim Fish in 2000 to complete the development of Flake Buttress.
Steve Crowe and Karin Magog climbed the well-protected prominent groove of Time
Out and the bold unprotected Telescopic in the summer of 2002. Nick Dixon left
his calling card during a visit home in the autumn of the same year with his
bold headpoint of Scut de Scun ai which is Japanese for "What will be will Be".
Steve Ramsden and friends developed the Pannierman Boulder then added Fresh
Arête with a side runner in 2010. Franco Cookson solo flashed the first ascent
of Vampric Obsession in the same year. David Warburton climbed Fresh Arête
without a side runner soon after. He went on to solo Heel of Approval in July
2011 and then he led Mane Vision in August 2011.
Situation and Character
The crag is in a pleasant situation on the edge of Blakey Ridge,
overlooking Farndale. The Lion Inn is a popular destination as it offers good
bar meals and real ale. Although generally a very sunny crag, it is always
possible to find some routes in the shade.
Access and Approaches
This accessible crag is not visible from the road. The best approach
is from the Lion Inn. Follow the wall and continue in a south-westerly
direction. Cross the old railway and continue downwards and the crag will soon
be encountered. 10 minutes from the Lion Inn.
The Climbs
These are described from left to right.
Lion Buttress
Situated 500m west of The Pinnacle.
1. Freshers Fancy 8m VD
The arête just left of Kitty.
Dave Lavallee 19th September 1997
2. Kitty 8m VS 4b
Climb the scoop and slab at the left end of the buttress.
Steve Crowe, Karin Magog 16th March 1997
3. Twin Cracks 8m E1 5c *
Superb powerful but well protected climbing following the twin cracks
through the roof.
Steve Crowe, Karin Magog 16th March 1997
4. The Lioness 8m HVS 5b *
Start just right of the roof, continue to the top.
Steve Crowe, Karin Magog 16th March 1997
5. Mane Vision 8m E5 6c **
The exquisitely desperate wall right of The Lioness is fortunately well
protected, as its climbing is ultra-marginal and extremely fingery.
David Warburton, Franco Cookson and Sam Marks
28th August 2011
6. The Big Cat 8m E2 6a **
Follow the slender groove/scoop at the right edge of the buttress.
Steve Crowe, Karin Magog 16th March 1997
7. Kitten VS 5a *
A right to left traverse of the buttress, finish past the tree. Start
beneath the right-hand groove line. Climb up to the break and traverse left for
about 7m until the top can be gained easily.
Steve Crowe, Karin Magog 16th March 1997
Round Crag Pinnacle
Situated 500m east of Lion Buttress.
8. Heel of Approval 6m E4 6b
The unprotectable north arête with a dire drop zone! Make a committing move
and then continue with some interest above.
David Warburton 29th July 2011
9. Pippi Longstocking 6m E6 6c **
Technical moves may lead to the pocket. A wild lunge from here should gain
the right facing corner above.
Ed Brown 10th May 2003 solo after top roped practice.
10. Farndale Fayre 8m E5 6b **
Start below the west arête. A hard but safe crux (small cam) leads to a bold
finish.
Steve Crowe 10th November 1996 Abseil pre inspection.
11. Time Out 8m E3 6a ***
Climb the prominent and well-protected groove (small wires), to step left at
the top.
Steve Crowe, Karin Magog 10th July 2002
Both led on sight.
12. Fresh Arête 8m E7 6b **
The unprotectable arête. Can be climbed with side runners in Time Out at E5.
Steve Ramsden (with side runners at E5) 31st July 2010
Dave Warburton (without side runners. E7) 21 Aug 2010
13. Scut de Scun ai 8m E7 6b **
The snappy and unprotectable shallow groove has lost holds since the first
ascent. Serious.
Nick Dixon 19th October 2002 solo after top rope
practice.
14. Picnic @ Hanging Rock 7m MXS 4c
The dusty groove in the centre of the south face is unlikely to become
popular due to loose rock and poised blocks!
Jeff Snoxell 14th July 1996
Epic on sight solo wearing ski goggles, which just happened to be in the top of
his sac. Jeff topped out totally covered in dirt having pulled loads of muck and
chock stones out of the crack. The first route on the crag.
15. Telescopic 5m E4 5c
An eliminate that climbs the rib just left of the perched blocks. No
protection!
Steve Crowe 10th July 2002 solo
The next blocks form an arch against the south face.
16. Archway 5m S
Climb the perched blocks until it is possible to step right near the top. No
protection!
17. Pillar Torque 5m VD
Climb the front of the small pillar direct.
18. Just Green 5m HVD
Climb the pillar on its right-hand side.
Jim Strange 19th September 1997
19. Octopet 8m E4 6b
The thin slab to the right can be climbed direct. Not as escapable as it
looks
Adam van Lopik 10th November 1996
Scut
20. Honey Arête 8m E5 6b ***
Start on squelchy ground below the east arête. Some very small RPs may offer
some protection. A bold route above a good drop zone which is often soloed!
Adam van Lopik 19th September 1997
21. Vampiric Obsession 7m E5 6b **
Climb the wall to the right of Honey Arête on its right side. Low, poor gear
may protect the lower crux, but the hardest move is still unprotected and
gripping and is followed by a tree root top-out.
Franco Cookson 21st August 2010 Solo flash first
ascent.
Adjacent Buttress
Immediately south of the Pinnacle is a buttress with a rounded arête.
Bring a belay stake for these climbs!
22. Dither 8m E2 6a **
Climbs the left-hand arête direct with a hard move on to the top slab.
Excellent protection where you need it most.
Adam van Lopik, S Normington 5th April 1997
23. Sarah’s Route 5m VD
Starts 3m right of the arête. Climb up with a tricky move to gain a ledge.
Move left and finish left of the dead tree.
Sarah Normington, Adam van Lopik 5th April 1997
24. Slippery Nipple 6m VS 5a
Climbs the small pillar 2m right of Sarah’s Route.
Tim Fish 26th July 2000
25. Dirty Girl 5m VS 5a
Climbs the first small pillar directly. LH and RH starts are possible at a
similar grade.
Sarah Normington 26th July 2000
Flake Buttress
25m south of the Round Crag Pinnacle.
26. Ditherytoo 5m HVS 5a
Climb the prominent arête.
Adam van Lopik 26th July 2000
27. Ditheralot 6m HVS 5c
Climbs the wall 2m to the right of Ditherytoo.
Tim Fish 26th July 2000
28. Flake Crack 5m VD
Climb the flake crack to the left of the blank wall.
Sarah Normington, Adam van Lopik 5th April 1997
29. Wander 5m S
Climbs the right-hand arête on its right-hand side. Finish with interest to
the right of the boulder.
Pannierman Boulder
The boulder is situated directly below Time Out.
31. Slabbierman's Arête Font 5+ *
The striking left arête on its slabby, left-hand side.
Steve Ramsden 10th April 2010
31. Pannierman's Arête Font 6b *
The classic line of the boulder. The left arete on its steep side. SS is
Font 6b+.
Steve Ramsden & Lee Robinson 15th May 2010
32. Fat Cactus Font 6a+ *
The steep right arête of the downhill side of the boulder. Starts from
sitting on the adjacent small boulder with left hand on the arête, right hand
sidepulls.
Steve Ramsden 10th April 2010
The Chocolate Box
The boulder directly below Lion Buttress.
33. Can You do the Can Can? Font 6a+ *
On the north face (overhang and slab) SS. Climb the right-hand arête on its
left side and onto the slab
Sam Marks 28th Aug 2011
34. The Candy Man Can Font 6b+ *
SS under the centre of the overhang with a pocket for the right hand. Make a
hard pull to the lip and the mantle onto the slab above.
Sam Marks 28th Aug 2011
Farndale Fayre - E5 6b** from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.
Full details in the
North East England Guide
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