O.S. Sheet 93 NGR 606025 - 604022
Aspect North West
Altitude 380m
Approach time 45minuets
Situation
and Character
The crag is situated to the south of Ingleby Incline. The recorded climbing is on two separate outcrops, referred to as East Band and West Band.
History
There is no historical record.
Access and approaches
The best approach
is to follow the route to Ingleby Incline and ascend the incline as far as the
cutting. Rud Scar lies a few hundred yards across the moors to the right.
The
Climbs
The climbs are described from left to right.
East
Band
This is the first band of rocks to be reached from the above approach. The climbs are described from left to right and the first route starts 2m left of the prominent corner.
1.
The Scoop 7m D
Climb to the left of the scoop by a crack to a ledge. Step into the scoop, which is climbed to the top.
2.
Ginger 7m HVD
From an awkward start the prominent corner 2m right of The Scoop is climbed throughout to a large tree.
3.
Hosted’s Horror 8m VS 4c
The steep crack 8m right of Ginger is climbed to an awkward finish.
4.
Roraima 13m S
Start 7m right of Hosted’s Horror at a large flake below some trees. Climb the wall left of the flake to the trees. Belay. Climb awkwardly user the overhang and finish diagonally right up the wall.
About 7m right of Roraima at the extreme end of the buttress and further up the slope is
5.
Truant 5m D
Climb the corner.
The next buttress is 25m further on. Some bouldering has been done on the buttresses between.
6.
Tapestry Soft 17m HS 4b
Start just right of a wet gully at a sharp flake crack. Climb the crack to a ledge, move left and ascend the wall to a ledge. Continue up the corner crack above on jammed blocks.
7.
Smackwater Jack 17m MVS 4c
Start bit, right of Tapestry. Climb the corner mainly on the left wall to a ledge. Move right and up for a few feet, then traverse leftwards to a groove. Finish as for Tapestry.
20m further right is
8.
Daddy Long Legs 10m VS 4c
Ascend the steep corner and overhang on the left of the buttress pulling into a groove on the right near the top.
9.
Speechless 10m
MVS 4c
Climb up to the tiny cave. Ascend the overhang into a groove joining Daddy Long Legs.
15m right is a small buttress
10.
North Sea Gas 8m VD
Climb the ledges at the left of the buttress, passing a small tree and finishing up a flake.
11.
Ekofisk 8m S
Start 20ft. right of North Sea Gas. Climb steeply to a small tree. Finish up an awkward corner above.
12m further right is the largest continuous buttress.
12.
.303 10m VD
Climb the corner to a large block. Surmount this and finish up a loose groove. Not worthwhile.
13.
Old Friends 13m MVS 4b
*
Climb the corner crack 3m right of .303.
14.
Punky’s Dilemma 13m VS 4c
Start 3m right of Old Friends. Climb the wall right of shattered ledges. The groove is awkward.
5m further right are two small corners halfway up the crag
15.
Fakin’ It 12m S
Climb the wall to the first ledge. Ascend the left wall with difficulty. Finish up the crack above.
16.
Overs 12m D
Climb the wall to the first ledge 2m right of Fakin’ It. Ascend the right hand corner to large holds.
Above this buttress is another tier of rock up to 8m high. Some routes have been climbed here at easy grades but there is scope for further development.
WEST BAND
An attractive group of rocks about 250m beyond the East Band across a large grassy depression.
17.
Shepherd’s Slab 10m D
Starts at the foot of a broad slab, at the left of the band. Climb the slab to a heathery ledge. Finish up a short wall above, near its left end.
18.
Shepherd’s Buttress 8m VS 4c
Start 5m right of Shepherd’s Slab. Climb the buttress to a good ledge then up the face above keeping slightly to the left.
19.
Herdwick Wall 10m S
Lies around the corner about 7m right of Shepherd’s Buttress. Climb the middle of the wall to the overhang. Step right and climb until one can step back left onto the face and climb directly to the top.
20.
Merino Corner 10m D
Start 3m right of Herdwick Wall. Climb to a holly tree and up the crack just behind it.
21.
Flake Crack 8m HVD
Climb the crack just right of Merino Corner.
22.
Shadrach 13m S
Start 7m right of Flake Crack. Gain a shallow niche and climb diagonally leftwards to a sloping ledge. Traverse left to Flake Crack and finish up this.
23.
Y Crack 10m S
Start as for Shadrach. Follows the obvious crack to a holly, continue up to the short corner above.
24.
Meshach 10m S
Start 4m right of Shadrach at the foot of a steep brown slab. Climb the slab to a holly, finish up the corner above.
25.
Meshach Variation Finish 13m VS 4c
*
Start as for Meshach. Climb the slab a few feet then trend rightwards to the corner of the buttress. Ascend the overlap to the top. A good route.
26.
Abednego 10m S
Start 3m right of Meshach at the foot of a crack. Climb the crack to a ledge then continue up a sharp edge to a second ledge. Traverse into the chimney and climb the left wall direct.
27.
Hawk Chimney 7m D
Just right of Abednego is a chimney with a chock stone. Climb this.