Sandy Crag (Key Heugh)
Map Reference: NY968972
Alt. 270m
West Facing
45 mins
Situation and Character
This large, quarry-like face is situated at the end of a spur overlooking
the Darden Burn. The crag is not marked on the 1:50,000 OS map although clearly
shown on the larger scale maps as Key Heugh. The Sandy Crags marked on both maps
are a collection of boulders 1 kilometre east which are of no real climbing
interest.
Whilst the number of routes is relatively few, some of them stand out as amongst
the finest in the county. They are improved further by the secluded feel of the
whole area and the fact that you will probably never have to queue. The downside
of this is that some of the less travelled routes may suffer from being dirty.
The rock is less compact than the other Simonside outcrops but this has no
bearing on the quality routes. The most impressive climbing is to be found on
the continuous central section of the crag, which attains a height of over 20
metres. On either side of this central section are lower, more discontinuous
buttresses.
The hillside below the main face consists of chaotically arranged boulders and
tilted blocks, which give boulder problems and routes up to 6 metres. They
provide good sport, though some of the landings are appalling and it is a very
long way to carry a mat.
Approaches and Access
The crag is easily seen to the south of the Elsdon-Hepple road in the centre
of a large grouse moor. Make a mental note of where the crag lies because it
isn't visible from the car park at the picnic site (NGR 970995). Go right along
the road to the bridge then take the track signposted Midgy House. Follow this
for about 1 kilometre to the house. Take the bridge over the stream past the
house, then follow the track up the crest of the spur (true left bank of the
stream) to the plantation of Humble Law. When the crag is sighted on the left,
strike straight for it down across the Darden Burn and up the moor to the base
of the crag. Access was previously very restricted but it is now possible to
climb throughout the year subject to obtaining permission first from the
gamekeeper, Stuart Whitfield on 01669 640272. Permission will normally be
granted. However, exceptionally the landlord may not wish to have people on the
moor. Please help to preserve long term access by complying with his wishes.
There is a right of access to the crag under CRoW.
FIRST ASCENTS:
| Angel Fingers | John Earl, Bob Hutchinson and Ian Cranston | 1974 | ||
| Basil Brush | Steve Blake | 1978 | ||
| Classroom Worm | Bob Smith and Tommy Smith | 25 | May | 1980 |
| Corporal Punishment | John Earl and Bob Smith | 1985 | ||
| Goldfinger | Bob Hutchinson and John Earl | 1977 | ||
| Greenford Road | Tommy Smith and Bob Smith | 1980 | ||
| Leonardo | Bob Smith and John Earl | May | 1985 | |
| Living on Borrowed Time | Hugh Harris | 1 | August | 1990 |
| Pall Arête | Bob Smith | 1979 | ||
| Question Mark Crack | Possibly The College Club | 1950s | ||
| Salvation | Bob Hutchinson and John Earl | 22 | May | 1976 |
| Sandy Crack | John Earl and Bob Hutchinson | 1974 | ||
| The Anvil | Bob Smith and Tommy Smith | 25 | May | 1980 |
| The Jaws | Bob Smith and Tommy Smith | 22 | April | 1979 |
| The Vertical Vice | Possibly The College Club | 1950s | ||
| Time and Motion | Joe Webb | 1 | September | 1991 |
| Victim of Circumstance | Hugh Harris and Rhian Webb | 24 | June | 1990 |
| Vincent | Bob Hutchinson and John Earl | 26 | April | 1978 |
| Weetabix Crack | Tommy Smith | |||
Gallery:
Steve Crowe leading Greenford Road Direct with runners in Sandy Crack the day before Mad Mark Savage's bold ascent!
The direct start was first Climbed by Karl Telfer in 1989.
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Alec Burns on Angel Fingers HVS 5b Photo (c) Andrew Birtwistle |
Karin Magog leading Sandy Crack E2 5c |
Steve Crowe bouldering out the start of Leonardo E5 6b |
Joe Webb soloing Time and Motion E7 6b Photo by Rhian Webb |
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Northumberland Climbing Guide The definitive guide to climbing routes in Northumberland. Updates available from the NMC here.
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The Northumberland Bouldering Guide The Second Edition of the guide was written and produced by the people who developed the area. Updates available from the NMC here.
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