Simonside North Face
Map Reference: NZ023987
Alt. 420m
North Facing
30 mins
Situation and Character
To climb at Simonside on a summer evening with views over Coquetdale to the
Cheviots and beyond is to experience Northumberland at its best. Located just
below the summit of Simonside, this is an exposed sandstone escarpment. The
lower tiers of the crag form rounded buttresses projecting from the hillside,
while the upper tier is split by numerous vertical cracks and chimneys that form
the basis of many of the routes. There are routes covering the whole range of
grades on the crag with many that will match for quality any elsewhere.
Approaches and Access
The most popular approach is from the Forestry Commission picnic area and
car park (NGR NZ 037997) on the minor road between Great Tosson and Lordenshaw.
A footpath leads from the south east corner of the car park and soon bends round
rightwards up the forested hillside. At the second forestry road turn left and
follow the track until it reaches open moorland. Ignore the outcrops on the
hillside above and continue along the track until the North Face comes into
view. Numerous paths lead up through the heather most heading for a large
boulder just below the central section of the crag - about thirty minutes. The
forestry tracks are good and a cycle makes the approach and the descent much
quicker. It is also possible to approach the crag by following the footpath from
Great Tosson.
There is a right of access to the crag under CRoW.
The Climbs
The crag is divided into several buttresses. Immediately above the boulder
is Boulder Face, to the left lies Window Buttress Face characterised by a
jutting prow of rock with a hole right through it. Further left are the smaller
East End and Far East Buttresses. Right of Boulder Face, A, B, C and D
Buttresses project from the hillside with the Buttress Face being the tier of
rock above them.
Bouldering on the Simonside Hills
There is a lot of scope for bouldering on the Simonside Hills a small selection of problems were included in the first edition of the Bouldering Guide.
Only one new problem has been reported since then. See page 227 of the Bouldering Guide
5. "NE Arête" V5
Very nice moves up the left arête. A good knee-bar helps.
5a. "Pebble Patrol" V8
Climb the middle of the wall on pebbles with some difficulty.
Climbed 23/4/2006 Chris Graham
6. The Groove V1 5b
The right side of the wall.
Sam Whittaker attempting a repeat of Pebble Patrol.
|
|
Northumberland Climbing Guide The definitive guide to climbing routes in Northumberland. Updates available from the NMC here.
|
|
|
The Northumberland Bouldering Guide The Second Edition of the guide was written and produced by the people who developed the area. Updates available from the NMC here.
|
More bouldering can be found on the Simonside Hills here:
 | |
| |
| |
|