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OS
Landranger
Sheet: 99
Map Reference:
SE138821
Aspect: South West
Altitude: 310m
Approach Time: 20 minutes
Situation and Character
Slipstones has been described as “Only the best crag on the planet!’ A little
over the top perhaps but for those who enjoy soloing short routes this is
paradise. The crag is a series of gritstone buttresses situated above the
pleasant valley of Colsterdale, 10 kilometres west of Masham. The buttresses
seldom exceed seven metres in height, yet offer a multitude of superb climbs and
problems to tease and test the most capable of climbers. Despite its altitude,
climbing can be enjoyed from early spring to late autumn, and given favourable
conditions and an enthusiastic spirit, right throughout the year. The rock is
clean, good quality gritstone, which dries quickly after rain.
History
The first recorded climbing at Slipstones is attributed to Martyn Berry and the
lads from Pollington Borstal during 1957 and 1958. Geoff Milburn climbed
Slanting Flake in1959 and returned in 1960 with Peter Martin to record another
twenty routes. News of the crag reached Darlington based climbers Dave Staton,
Malcolm Farrow and Ernie Shield, who visited the rocks in 1962 repeating many of
the existing routes and adding the superb Sowden. With route descriptions
provided by Peter Martin the Cleveland Mountaineering Club held a weekend meet
at the crag in1964. The meet was very successful and several excellent new
routes were climbed. The meet also introduced Tony Marr to the crag and his
exploration and new route activities continue to the present day. Tony added his
first new route in July 1964 with an ascent of Escalator with his brother Eric.
Steady development of the crag continued with contributions mainly from
Cleveland based climbers. The inclusion of the crag in Stewart Wilson’s 1980
North of England guide brought it to the attention of a wider climbing public,
but before the guide appeared it was out of date due to the exploits of a strong
team from Teesside. Tony Marr and Alan Taylor introduced Paul Ingham to the crag
in early 1980. The team quickly grew to include Ian Dunn, Steve Brown and Dave
Paul. Over several weekends numerous new routes were added including Rock On,
Agra Right Hand and the testing Ripper. Standards continued to rise throughout
the eighties culminating with Paul Ingham climbing Lay-by Arête and Ian Cummins
adding Sulky Little Boys, a short but desperate 6c. Many fine additions were
made during the nineties, with Hugh Harris contributing a very hard variation
finish to Atomic in 1994 and Mike Gardiner finally solving the long standing
direct start to Wisecrack in February 1997. Steve Crowe climbed the excellent
but distinctly awkward Forthright in May 2000. The flow of new routes was
slowing until Steve Dunning unleashed his dynamic power on some on the remaining
gaps. The best of the bunch are undoubtablly Super Furry Animal and Exocet both
of which are very short but very powerful. Finally Ben Moon left his calling
card on the last great unclimbed arête at Slipstones to produce the desperate
Cypher in May 2002. That said for those with talent and an eye for a line there
are still unclimbed lines to be found.
Access and Approaches
The normal approach is from Masham, home of Theakstons and The Black Sheep
Breweries. Pass through the villages of Fearby and Healey. After leaving Healey
take the second turning on the right into Colsterdale, at a fork in the road.
Follow the road for a further 3 kilometres to where an obvious parking place
will appear on the right just beyond some hairpin bends on the bank. PLEASE PARK
SENSIBLY.
Access notes:
The landowner has been granted a dog restriction on the Open Access land at
Jervaulx Moor for grouse breeding. This runs until 18/06/2010 and includes
Slipstones and Brown Beck Crags.
"Slipstones is in danger of becoming a victim of its own success. The
sudden rise in popularity of this venue has caused concern from landowners and
local residents. The land owner is not happy about climbers taking short cuts
across the heather below the crag and residents have reported parked cars
blocking the lane and access to gateways.
The BMC access rep has been in negotiation and a suggested compromise for the
approach to minimise disturbance to the moor is for everyone to follow the side
of the wall up to the right side of the crag and only cut across when level with
the rocks. The whole area around the crag is also important for ground nesting
birds in the Spring so please minimise noise on your approach.
Please be considerate when parking. Share cars if at all possible and be
prepared to walk from further back down the lane if the usual layby is full." Dave Musgrove
From the parking area, follow the farm track that contours the hillside westward
until it turns north through a dry stone wall towards a farm. Leave the farm
track and keeping the drystone wall on your right continue for 350m to a gate.
Pass through the gate on to the open moor, turn immediately right and follow the
track beside the wall until almost level with the crag, where a small path leads
left to the rocks. This line of access has been negotiated with the land owner
by the BMC. Please follow it at all times when approaching and leaving the crag.
The Grades
The V grades system has been introduced at a late stage in the production of
this guide. It is an attempt to highlight climbs that can be consider problems
to be climbed with bouldering mats rather that routes that are soloed or led
with ropes. Please report anomalies to www.climbonline.co.uk
The Climbs
The climbs are described from left to right. The first climbs are on an isolated
buttress about 25metres left of the highest buttress with an excellent front
face. Many variations and short problems are possible, only the better lines are
described.
1. Extremities 5m E1 5c (V2)
Climb the centre of the face left of the arête. Nasty landing. A route of a
similar standard can be made up the wall just to the left.
Tony Marr solo 14th February 1982
2. Paul’s Arête Left Side 6m E1 6a (V3) *
Delicate climbing up the left side of the arête. Bold.
Paul Ingham solo 14th February 1982.
3. Paul’s Arête Right Side 6m E1 5b (V1)**
Climb the right side of the arête. Superb.
Paul lngham solo 14th February 1982
4. Steve’s Wall 6m E1 5b (V1) **
Start just right of Paul’s Arête, then go diagonally right and boldly up the
centre of the wall to finish.
Steve Brown (solo) 14th February 1982
5. Heather Crack 5m D
An undistinguished, heathery, crack on the right of the buttress.
M Berry with lads from Pollington Borstal 1957.
Just right of Heather Crack are two short problems: -
Front face of the block using the right arête 5a.
Juggy wall around the right arête VD.
Escalator Wall
25m right is the start of the main edge.
6. Roofed Corner 4m D
The short left-hand corner of the shallow recess.
M Berry with lads from Pollington Borstal 1957
7. Little Corner 4m D
The right-hand corner has a large poised block at the top.
M Berry with lads from Pollington Borstal 1958
8. Overhanging Crack 5m VD
The wide crack.
M Berry with lads from Pollington Borstal 1958
9. Undercut Double Crack 6m HS 4b *
Hand jam up the hanging central crack.
April 1964 Climbed by members of the CMC during a weekend meet.
10. Ginger Badger 6m HVS 5b
The wall between the wide crack and chimney to a break (good gear), up to crimps
in the centre of the wall and a long reach or dyno for the next break. Climb
easily to the top.
James Karran & Grant Brewer 12th March 2002 (both lead) first recorded
ascent.
11. Not So Tight Chimney 6m VD *
Squirm up the crack/chimney. An excellent climb of its type.
Geoff Milburn, Peter Martin Oct 1960
12. Breakwind Arête 8m HVS 5b
Using the arête, climb the narrow wall between Not So Tight Chimney and Space
Truckin’ to a difficult finish. Unfortunately escapable.
Phillipe Osbourne, David Maudley 15th Jan1995
13. Space Truckin’ 8m E1 5b *
Start 2m right of Not So Tight Chimney. Climb straight up the blunt arête via a
fragile looking flake.
Ian Dunn, Steve Brown, Paul lngham 14th February 1982
14. Escalator 8m HVS 5b **
Climb steeply up the centre of the buttress on mainly good holds to a long
finishing reach at the top.
Tony Marr, Eric Marr July 1964. The first of Tony’s numerous new routes at
the crag.
Tony had just started an apprenticeship with a lift manufacturer, hence the
name.
Tony Marr leading Escalator HVS 5b
14a. Diminuendo 8m HVS 5c
Climb the wall between Escalator and Mantelshelf Crack on long reaches to a good
hold on the arête, gain the ledge and finish easily up the arête on the left.
Alan Taylor, Tony Marr 13th September 1999.
The next route lies at the entrance to the wide gully formed by the massive
block of Beldin Block
15. Mantelshelf Crack 6m VD
The awkward vertical crack leads into a scoop with a choice of finishes.
Geoff Milburn, Peter Martin October 1960.
15a. Rogues Gallery 10m VS 5a
This climb makes a diagonal ascent of Escalator Buttress. Starting at
Mantelshelf Crack, step up then hand traverse the horizontal slot in the wall on
the left into Escalator. Climb Escalator to the second horizontal break, this is
then followed leftwards around the arete to finish at the top of Not So Tight
Chimney.
Tony Marr, Mike Tooke. 7th November 2003.
The climbing is varied and surprisingly good, even a bit strenuous. Well worth
doing.
16. Staircase 6m M *
Takes the obvious leftwards-slanting gangway into the scoop at the top.
M Berry with lads from Pollington Borstal 1957.
17. Mantelshelf Wall 5m VS 4b
Start just right of Staircase. Gain the ledge by an awkward move then escape
right up the ramp. A direct start is also possible finishing straight up the
ramp.
April 1964 Climbed by members of the Cleveland Mountaineering Club during a
weekend meet.
17a. Mantelshelf Wall - Direct Finish VS 4b
From the good ledge… instead of moving right up the ramp to escape, finish up
either the short hanging crack, the slanting flake or, by a combination of both.
Tony Marr, Mike Tooke February 1993. An old variant from 1993 which Mike and
I recently repeated and realized that I’d missed recording!
18. Cold Wall 4m VS 4c
Tackles the wall 2m right of the last climb.
Ken Jackson, Tony Marr 1968
19. Hole in the Wall 4m VS 4c
Climb past the hole to a flake and awkward finish.
Tony Marr, Eric Marr Easter 1965
Beldin Block
Set forward and right of Escalator Wall, this large buttress has climbing on
four faces and it gives some of the longest climbs on the crag, especially on
its gently overhanging front face. The rear of the buttress is slabby in
character, and although it may appear green and unappealing at first, the climbs
are much better than they look. The first eight problems are on this rear face.
North Face
20. Left Edge 3m D
The short slab at the extreme left edge of the face.
M Berry with lads from Pollington Borstal 1957.
21. Inside Left 4m S
An eliminate up the slab just to the left of the next route.
1960’s.
22. Old Corner 4m VD *
The delicate right facing corner.
Geoff Milburn, Peter Martin Oct 1960.
23. Petch’s Groove 5m S
From the left, gain the shallow curving groove above the cave, then follow it to
the top.
Geoff Milburn, Peter Martin Oct 1960.
24. Groove Eliminate 5m HS
Follow the pockets up the slab immediately right of Petch’s Groove but don’t
step on to it.
1960’s.
25. Twenty Foot Crack 6m VD
The obvious crack in the slabby wall leads to a choice of finishes.
Ernie Shield, Dave Staton, Malcolm Farrow 1962 .
26. North Wall 6m HVS 5b
Start just over a metre right of Twenty Foot Crack and climb the delicate slab
directly to the top.
Alan Taylor Spring 1977.
26a. Offspring 6m HVS/E1 5c V2
Climb the wall direct between North Wall and Tranmire Arête to the obvious
finger pocket, make a long reach to the break and continue direct to the top.
Alan Taylor, Tony Marr and Chris Taylor 10th September 2006
Chris is my 9year old son, hence the name.
27. Tranmire Arête 6m MS ***
The superb right arête of the slab is climbed on its left side. The right side
of the arête can also be climbed, it’s slightly harder but not as good.
April 1964 Climbed by members of the Cleveland Mountaineering Club during a
weekend meet.
West Face
28. Tranmire Crack 6m VS 4c
Climb the short crack by stepping off a boulder just right of the arête. The
direct start avoiding the ‘cheating block’ is 5b.
Tony Marr 1978.
29. High Level Girdle 50m E1 5b
Starts up Tranmire Crack then traverses rightwards along the main break crossing
the south face to finish up Zoom on the east face, or it can be continued to the
top of Wise Crack on the next buttress. Enjoyable and strenuous.
Paul lngham, Ian Dunn (both solo) 14th February 1982.
30. Jenny Binks Wall 7m VS 5a *
Start in the centre of the wall at the left end of a horizontal slot. Climb the
wall via a series of long reaches between the horizontal breaks.
Unknown - Many Claims 1968.
31. Twixt 7m HVS 5a
Start just right of Jenny Binks Wall, from the right hand side of the horizontal
slot climb straight up with progressively longer reaches.
Alan Taylor, Tony Marr, Mike Tooke 13th September 1999.
32. Easy Pickings 7m VS 4c **
The wall to the right of Twixt. Step from a sloping block and make delicate
moves up rightwards to a slot. Step left and finish direct.
Alan Taylor, Tony Marr, Paul lngham 1978.
32a The Handrail 10m HVS 5a *
Start as for easy pickings on the sloping block.
Traverse right and follow the mid height break across the front face of
Beldin Block to join Zoom. The climb can be terminated here by
descending. Some interesting variations are:
-
Complete the traverse then finish up Zoom. A pumpy E1 5b **
-
Reverse the traverse and finish up Easy Pickings HVS 5a **
-
Traverse left to right, reverse Zoom then follow the low level traverse
back to the start. A superb and pumpy circuit. V4/5 6a ***
FA. Tony Marr, Mike Tooke 22nd April 2009
33. West Face Eliminate 8m E2 6a
Start from the lowest point and climb the left side of the blunt leaning arête
to finish steeply over the final projections.
Steve Brown, Dave Paul 1986.
South Face (Front Face)
34. Low Level Traverse 100m HVS 6b (V6)**
Superb technical and very “pumpy” climbing rarely more than a metre above the
ground. Start at Tranmire Arête and traverse rightwards to finish at Dennis in
Darlo, Sevens and Eights Buttress. Equally enjoyable and slightly easier in the
reverse direction. Rarely done in one continuous push.
First continuous crossing Paul lngham 28th July 1984. Started life in
November 1983 as a series of winter training problems by Ingham and Marr but
quickly grew into a sustained technical exercise. lngham’s original grade -
“quite hard 5c.”
The next three routes all finish up the flake at the left end of the south face.
35. Beldin Direct 8m E1 5b *
The leaning arête on its right side to finish up a short vertical crack.
Alan Taylor, Tony Marr, Ken Jackson April 1975.
36. Beldin 10m HVS 5b **
The fine natural line up the front of the buttress. Pull up onto the gangway and
follow it leftwards to the horizontal break. Move left and finish up a short
crack. Strenuous.
Ken Jackson, Tony Marr 1968.
37. Beldin Variation 8m E1 5b *
Start left of the normal route at an obvious pocket. Climb the wall keeping left
of the ramp until a large pocket leads to the top break and the finishup the
crack as for the previous route.
Paul lngham (solo) 15th March 1981.
38. Original Route 10m HVS 5a ***
Gain the gangway then make an awkward pull right to reach the flake crack and
awkward finish.
Tony Marr, Eric Marr July 1964.
39. Gollinglith 8m E1 5b *
Take the steep thin crack to the right, moving left to finish up the flake crack
of Original Route.
Steve Wilson (solo) Spring 1969. A typical Wilson problem, steep and strenuous.
Unfortunately Steve was never to realise his true potential, as an abseiling
accident a short time later cruelly ended his climbing career.
40. Tachyon 8m E2 5c **
Start at the arête between Gollinglith and Zoom. Climb the left side until the
last horizontal break is reached. Move right and finish up Zoom.
Alan Taylor, Tony Marr 9th May 1999.
East Face (East Alcove)
The East Face of Beldin Block forms the left side of a square recess.
41. Zoom 7m HVS 5b ***
Start just right of the arête. Climb up via the flake and finish up the final
short crack. Superb climbing.
Tony Marr, Eric Marr, Ken Jackson June 1966. Jackson had climbed two thirds
of the route but then tired placing protection, he graciously handed the lead to
Tony who“ zoomed” up it.
42. Atomic 7m E3 6a ***
Climb the centre of the left wall moving slightly left at the break, then to the
top.
Ian Dunn, Paul lngham 17th April 1982. A bold and difficult climb, setting
the standard for others to match.
43. Atomic Right Hand 7m E3 6b *
Climb the centre of the wall as for Atomic but move out right then up to the
top.
Hugh Harris, Ian Cummins 1994. Probably 6c if you’re shorter than Hugh
Harris!
The next three problems are on the back wall of the recess between Beldin
Buttress and Wise Crack Buttress.
44. Barnley Crack 6m S *
Take the left hand corner crack.
Geoff Milburn, Peter Martin Oct 1960.
45. Barnley Wall 6m HS 4b *
Climb the centre of the back wall of the recess with a strenuous mantelshelf
start.
Steve Wilson June 1966.
46. Ulfers Crack 6m VD
The right hand corner crack.
Geoff Milburn, Peter Martin Oct 1960.
Agra Buttress
Forming the right wall of the square cut recess, this buttress has a capping
overhang on the front face.
47. Forever Onward 6m E1 5c
Climb the centre of the right wall of the recess on good holds to the large
break then make an extended move up the blank wall above to finish. (An escape
left along the break reduces the grade to 4c).
Paul lngham (solo)1988.
48. Timeless Divide 6m E2 6a (V3)
Climb directly up the nose of the arête to finish on the spectacular fin.
Paul lngham [solo] 20th November 1983.
49. Variation Start 6m V6 6c
Levitate up the right side of the arête to the ledge. A highly technical
problem.
Ian Cummins 1980s “Paul Ingham may have climbed it before me” Ian Cummins
50. Agrete 7m HVS 5c (V2)
Start 1m right of the arête. Climb directly up the wall using a black flake to
gain the ledge. Finish up the left arête.
Tony Marr, Paul lngham, Mike Davison 5th October 1980. Marr adds an
independent finish to his 1965 start.
51. Agra Direct Start 7m HVS 5c (V3) *
Climb the wall 3 metres right of the arête to the ledge. Finish over the roof as
for Agra.
Tony Marr (solo) 15th March 1981.
52. Agra 8m HVS 5b (V2) ***
Start at the middle of the wall. Pass a small overhang and make committing moves
left up the slab to a ledge. Surmount the final overhang at its weakness.
Tony Marr, Eric Marr. Easter 1965.
53. Agra Var. Whimps Finish 14m VS 4b
A variation which avoids Agra’s difficult finish is possible by traversing left
into the recess to escape up the corner of Ulfer’s Crack.
Tony Marr, Eric Marr 1965. Climbed after their first ascent of Agra.
54. Agra Right Hand 8m HVS 5b
Start as for Agra. Climb straight up the wall past a small spike to the break,
move right and pull over the roof.
Paul lngham, Tony Marr, Alan Taylor 7th. September 1980. This was Paul
lngham’s first visit to the crag. The team had left Brimham early because of
rain and had detoured to Slipstones on the way home. lngham was not impressed as
the crag came into view, “poxy little thing” he said, but on closer inspection
and a guided tour his views were changed. In fact it was difficult to get him to
leave. The team returned on several consecutive weekends climbing numerous new
routes. The crag would never be the same again.
55. Narrow Margin 8m E2 6a (V3)
Start just right of Agra below a small overlap. Move up and right following a
line of poor pockets. Cross the rock scar to finish over the roof.
Tony Marr, Linda Marr 26th July 1992.
56. Shadows in the Night 6m HVS 5c (V2) ***
Gain the obvious hanging crack line by a difficult move from the right.
Ian Dunn 14th February 1982. Previously recorded as Wise Crack.
57. Shadows Direct Start 5m HVS 6b (V6)
The hanging crack can be gained direct using sloping holds and talent.
Ian Cummins 1980’s “Paul Ingham may have climbed it before me” Ian Cummins
58. Alan’s Arête 6m VS 4c/5b
Climb the right arête on its left side at 5b or the right side at 4c.
Alan Taylor (solo). 7th September 1980.
59. Mark Turner’s Rockover 4m VS 5a
A rock over problem on the wall right of the arête.
Mark Turner
The next three climbs are in the recess at the right end of the buttress.
60. Shine On 5m VD
The layback crack in the corner, 2m right of Alan’s Arête.
M Berry with lads from Pollington Borstal 1957.
61. Mantel On 4m S
A problematic start leads into the leaning groove.
April 1964 Climbed by members of the Cleveland Mountaineering Club during a
weekend meet.
62. Groove On 4m HD
The shallow groove in the right wall.
April 1964 Climbed by members of the Cleveland Mountaineering Club during a
weekend meet.
Across the descent gully is a large undercut block with an obvious hole in its
front face.
Squawk’s Buttress Area
63. Wall Climb 4m D
Climb the centre of the left wall of the buttress.
Geoff Milburn, Peter Martin Oct 1960.
64. Block Arête 5m HS 4b *
Climb the left arête of the buttress on its left-hand side. There is a “man
eating” flake under the left arête, which has been found harmless to date – take
care!
Steve Wilson 1967.
65. Beta Blocker 6m E1 5b *
Take the right side of the arête above the “man eating” flake.
Paul lngham (solo) 14th February 1982.
66. Impregnable 8m E2 6a (V3) **
Using the large hole, climb straight up the front face of the buttress. Good sit
down start?
Paul lngham, Ian Dunn, Tony Marr, Steve Brown 14th February 1982.
67. Get Nervous 8m E2 5c
Take the undercut arête right of Impregnable. Disqualification follows any
attempt to escape into the chimney on the right.
Ian Dunn, Paul lngham 14th February 1982.
68. Chockstone Overhang 6m HS 4b
The undercut chimney on the right of the buttress provides a traditional
problem.
Geoff Milburn, Peter Martin Oct 1960.
Squawk’s Buttress
69. Squawk’s Arête 7m HVS 5b (V1) *
The left arête of the buttress requires some commitment at the top.
Ian Dunn (solo) 7th September 1980
70. Undercut Flake Variations 8m HS 4b
Climb straight up the front of the buttress to a
ledge and exit by a shallow corner.
April 1964 Climbed by members of the Cleveland Mountaineering Club during a
weekend meet.
70a. Self Suicide V8
Start at the back of the roof and head out for a jug in the middle of the wall
with the aid of the left arête and a flake on the right.
Dave Cowl spring 2006
71. Undercut Flake 8m HS 4b **
Make a layback start up the flake crack on the right edge of the buttress, pull
awkwardly onto the ledge and finish up the shallow corner.
Malcolm Farrow, Ernie Shield, Dave Staton 1962.
72. Tilt 8m VS 5a
Climb the crack of Undercut Flake then continue up the arête above.
Tony Marr, Ken Jackson, Alan Taylor 23rd April 1979.
73. Flakeout Arête 8m HVS 5a
The wall right of Undercut Flake and left wall of the Dark Cleft without using
the flake on the arête. A thin start and a reachy finish.
Phillipe Osbourne 15th January 1995.
74. Dark Cleft 6m VD
The chimney on the right of the buttress.
M Berry with lads from Pollington Borstal 1957.
75. Face to Face 7m VS 4b
Climb the wide entrance chimney to Dark Cleft and finish over the capstone.
Tony Marr, Mike Tooke, Frank Fitzgerald, Peter Shawcross 25th January 1998.
Sevens and Eights Buttress
The buttress forming the right side of the cleft.
76. Forever Young 7m E2 6a (V3) **
The thin crack up the left wall of the buttress with a nasty finish.
Steve Brown, Dave Paul June 1983.
77. Seven Up 6m E2 5c (V3) **
Climb up the front of the buttress by launching off the left arête and heading
for the obvious flake high up on the right.
Paul lngham, Tony Marr, Steve Brown 15th March 1981.
78. Direct Finish 6m E3 6a
From the horizontal slot, step left and make difficult moves up the left arête
to finish.
Phillipe Osborne 1st Aug 1993 Solo
79. Variation Starts 6m E3 6a
Climb directly up the front or by a “rock over” from under the roof on the
right.
Paul lngham (solo) 23rd January 1983.
80. Fuser 4m VD
The layback corner crack.
Geoff Milburn, Peter Martin Oct 1960.
81. Tony’s Torment 4m HVS 6a
Climb the centre of the wall without the use of either crack.
Tony Marr 3rd December 1983
82. Wedge Down Crack 5m HS 4b
The awkward wide crack.
First Descent Attributed to Martyn Berry with lads from Pollington Borstal
1958(down climbed only).
First Ascent Tony Marr, Eric Marr May1964.
83. Thingumy In Thirsk 6m E3 6a
The arête just right of Wedge Down Crack is climbed on its right side with a
committing move to gain an obvious pocket on the left near the top - but still
finishing on the right.
Andy Moss 27th April 2000.
84. Dennis in Darlo 6m E1 5c (V2) **
Straight up the centre of the buttress. Finish using a blind flake and finger
pocket. Bold.
Steve Brown (solo) 15th March 1981.
85. Barren Waste 6m E2 5c
Climb the wall just left of the right arête with a long reach to finish.
Steve Brown May 1984.
86. Easy Groove 5m D
Follow the groove/crack at the right edge of the buttress.
M Berry with lads from Pollington Borstal 1957.
87. Edge Route 5m M
Climb the stepped of blocks forming the right hand end of the buttress.
M Berry with lads from Pollington Borstal 1957.
A low level traverse from Dark Cleft to finish up Dennis in Darlo is a good
5c/6a test piece.
Inconsequential Wall
The name given to the short inconsequential wall behind the large detached
block.
88. Little Arête 4m VD
Ascend the front face of the arête left of the chimney.
Tony Marr Spring 1996.
89. Roofed Chimney 3m M
Climb the chimney.
M Berry with lads from Pollington Borstal 1957.
90. Awkward Finish 3m D
The wall just right of the chimney.
Attributed to Martyn Berry with lads from Pollington Borstal 1957.
91. Staircase Mantel 4m D
Climb the wall via a pocket.
M Berry with lads from Pollington Borstal 1957.
A low level traverse across the wall is 5c. Other short problems can be worked
out here.
Sowden Buttress
The large detached block that sits forward of the main escarpment. The climbing
on the front face is excellent, with user-friendly landings. The first climb
starts in the gully at the rear face of the buttress. The routes are described
from left to right.
92. Left Arête 4m VD
M Berry with lads from Pollington Borstal 1958.
93. Frank’s Wall 4m D
Step off the bock and climb the wall in its centre.
Frank Fitzgerald, Mike Tooke 26th Jan 1997.
94. Scratch and Go 4m VD
Pull over the undercut just right of the curving overlap, trending leftwards to
finish.
Tony Marr, Frank Fitzgerald, Mike Tooke 25th January 1998.
95. Right Arête 4m VD
Takes the slabby right arête of the rear face of the buttress. This is also the
usual descent route from the block.
M Berry with lads from Pollington Borstal 1958.
96. Problem Wall 5m HVS 5b *
Climb the side wall using the short horizontal slot to start and tiny edges to
finish.
Paul lngham, Alan Taylor 5th August 1982.
97. Left Wall 5m VD *
Climb the shallow curving corner. An enjoyable route.
Geoff Milburn, Peter Martin Oct 1960.
98. Low Level Traverse 12m HVS 5b
Start just left of the arête. Pull up to a good hold on the arête then move down
and rightwards around the arête with difficulty, finish up Sowden. Chris Cross,
Continue traversing at a low level to finish up Dixon’s Dilemma.
1980’s. Chris Cross, S Crowe 28th April 1996
98a. Silhouette 6m VS 5a
Start at the same place as route 98. Low Level Traverse. Climb straight up the
left side of the arete keeping close to the edge. (An easier variation (4b/c)
can be made by using the obvious larger holds on the left).
Tony Marr, Mike Tooke 2nd May 2004
99. Sowden Left Hand 6m E1 5b (V ?) *
Start on the front face. Climb the wall then finish up the blunt arête.
Paul lngham (solo) 5th August 1982.
100. Sowden 6m HVS 5a (V ?) **
Climb the impressive flake crack to an awkward landing.
Malcolm Farrow, Dave Staton, Ernie Shield 1962. Bold for its time.
101. Sinbad 6m E3 6b (V ?)**
Start just right of Sowden and follow the line of flakes to a pocket, pull right
to escape.
Dave Paul (solo) June 1983.
102. Space Plucks 6m E3 6a (V ?) **
Climb the wall 3 metres right of Sowden passing an obvious slot.
Paul lngham [solo] 20th November 1983.
103. Forthright 5m E2 5c (V ?) **
The arête right of Space Plucks is climbed on its left-hand side.
Phillipe Osborne. James Brooke 29th Sept 1996
104. Dixon’s Dilemma 5m VS 4c
Start in the gully by a large block. Climb the wall on angled holds. No
bridging.
Nick Dixon May 1984.
105. Witton Wall 4m S
The flake crack in the left wall of the gully. Distinctly awkward.
Mike Railton April 1964.
Ripper Buttress
106. Half Way Chockstone 4m D
Starts at the top of the gully on the right. Climb the chimney to exit left
around the capstone.
M Berry with lads from Pollington Borstal 1958.
107. Central Bay Route 4m HD
Climb the stepped groove.
M Berry with lads from Pollington Borstal 1958.
108. Psyche 4m E1 5c
Start in the gully just left of Leany Meany and use the pocket to climb the
shallow groove direct.
Tony Marr [solo]. 25th January 1998.
109. Leany Meany 8m E1 5c (V2) *
Start at the base of the left arête. Climb to the horizontal break, then up and
right to pockets and a long finishing reach.
Paul lngham, Tony McLean 4th October 1980.
109a. Old Peculiar 7m E1 5c *
Start as for Leany Meany but continue directly up the edge of the steep wall
using the arete.
The climbing is slightly harder and bolder than Leany Meany.
Tony Marr, Mike Tooke 26th October 2003
Note: The name refers to Masham’s famous brew and in no way applies to the
climbers involved, honest!
110. Killer 7m E3 6b (V5)
Start just left of Ripper at a shallow corner. Climb the corner then trend up
left on pockets to the top. A technical start and bold finish.
Dave Paul (solo) June 1983.
111. Ripper 7m E1 5c (V2) ***
Climb the grooved right arête by a variety of precarious manoeuvres. Superb
climbing.
Paul lngham (solo) 12th October 1980 - Taylor solved the start but lngham
claimed the prize!
112. Ripper Right Hand 7m E3 6c
A very hard eliminate climbing the right side of the Ripper arête. Very thin,
finger shredder with a not very nice landing.
Neil Mason Jr 1980s
113. Cyclops 7m E2 5c *
Start in the middle of the steep wall to the right of Ripper. With a little help
from a friend (combined tactics), gain the obvious hole. Further contortions are
required to gain the exit niche
Alan Taylor, Tony Marr 9th May 1999.
114. Ripper Traverse 8m VS 5a/E1 5c (V3)
Start at the horizontal break at the left side of the buttress and traverse its
length, drop off here (5a) or thug up Ripper to finish.
Paul lngham (solo) 23rd January 1983.
Alternatively, for a bigger pump, start up Ripper and traverse left along the
break to the arête before reversing to finish up the top section of Ripper, a
mega pumpy 5c.
The next two short problems are on the boulder below Ripper Buttress.
115. Emergency Hat 3m 5a/b
The thin clean overhanging arete to the right of the vague path from a sit-down
start.
Grant Brewer 12th March 2002
116. The Fox 3m 5b
The centre of the steep wall to the right of Emergency Hat from a constricted
sit-down start in the hole below the wall to the top via a rough crimp.
James Karran 12th March 2002
Marr’s Buttress
Set back in a sheltered cove, with a conspicuous wide crack.
117. Picnic Wall 4m D
The blocky chimney to the left of the main face.
M Berry with lads from Pollington Borstal 1957.
117a. Bite Size 5m VS 5a
Climb
the wall left of Cummin’s Route using the arête but NOT the
standing block. Finish Direct.
FA.
Tony Marr, Mike Tooke 5th April 2009
118. Cummin’s Route 5m HVS 5b (V2)
Climb the centre of the wall, left of the conspicuous wide crack.
Paul lngham (solo) 5th August 1982.
119. Christopher Robin 6m VS 4b
The conspicuous wide crack.
Geoff Milburn, Peter Martin Oct 1960.
120. Right Wall 6m V2 5c
The fingery wall just right of the crack.
Tony Marr (solo) 23rd January 1983.
121. Marr’s Route 6m VS 5a **
Takes a vague flake line up the wall below the protruding overhangs. Gain good
holds at the break, pull over the overlap, then make a bold move right to finish
over the roof.
Eric Marr, Tony Marr July 1964.
122. Da’s Route 6m VS 5a
Climb the faint groove just left of the chimney. Pull strongly straight over the
roof or escape weakly out right.
Steve Crowe 1994.
123. Moderator 4m M
The chimney on the right of the buttress.
M Berry with lads from Pollington Borstal 1958
124. Pa’s Route 5m MS
Up the centre of the small buttress.
1990’s.
125. Gully Wall 4m S 4b
The short left wall of the recess.
1990’s.
126. Little Gully 3m M
Climb the back of the recess, right of the small buttress.
M Berry with lads from Pollington Borstal 1958.
The next buttress is actually two narrow buttresses separated by the wide
chimney of Siamese Bridge.
Siamese Blocks
127. Friday 13th 4m HVS 6a (V3)
Awkward moves up the left side of the left arête of the buttress via a snapped
hold.
Steve Brown (solo) 7th February 1982.
128. Sunday 20th 4m HVS 6a (V3)
The left arête on its right hand side.
Paul lngham [solo] 20th November 1983.
128a Slipway 4m V4 6a
Starting next to Sunday 20th but moving up and right on to the vague arête
overlooking the narrows. Using a couple of nicks on the front face for the left
hand to allow the rock onto the footledge, then stretch for the big hold at the
top of the arête. Pull over the roof to finish. Nice thin moves.
Richard Davies and party 1990s
129. Siamese Bridge 4m D
Jolly up the wide chimney between the buttresses.
M Berry with lads from Pollington Borstal 1957.
130. Right Hand Twin 5m HVS 5c (V2) *
The fine arête of the right hand block. Climb it on its slabby left side.
Tony Marr (solo) 12th October 1980.
131. Leaning Wall 5m HVS 6a (V3)
The arête can also be climbed on its overhanging right side.
Alan Taylor (solo) 12th October 1980.
132. Strictly Personal 5m E1 6a (V3) *
The leaning right arête is climbed mainly on its left side.
Paul lngham [solo] 20th November 1983.
133. Brush Up 4m HVS 5b (V1)
Climb the problematic wall right of the arête.
Paul lngham 13th November 1983.
The Deck
Broken rock and heather separate Siamese Blocks from the next smooth slabby
wall.
134. Pothole Chimney 3m D
A poor climb taking the chimney on the extreme left of the buttress.
M Berry with lads from Pollington Borstal 1958.
135. Jack the Lad 5m VS 4c
The left arête of the buttress. Step off the boulder and continue up the arête
above.
1990’s.
136. String Vest 5m HVS 6a
A delicate eliminate. Climb the shallow groove in the left side of the face.
Steve Brown (solo) September 1982 .
137. Withering Heights 6m HVS 5c *
Start two metres right of the left arête and climb the wall on small but
positive finger holds finishing from the break with a long reach.
Steve Brown (solo) September 1982.
138. Aces High 6m VS 4c **
Step off a slabby boulder in front of the buttress and climb to the horizontal
break. The climb can be finished by moving left then up, straight up, or by
stepping right for the easiest finish.
Unknown, many claims. Late 1960’s. An excellent and popular route.
139. Trumps 6m VS 4c *
Climb the blunt right arête of the buttress via a finger slot to finish as for
Aces High.
Ken Jackson, Tony Marr 1968.
139a. Trumps Left Hand 12m VS 5a *
Start
as for Trumps. Climb Trumps to the finger slot then move left,
cross Aces High then follow horizontal cracks to finish up the
left arête . Good sustained climbing.
FA.
Tony Marr, Mike Tooke 29th March 2009
140. Trumps Right Hand 5m HS 4b
The face just to the right of the arête to finish up a black stain.
Ken Jackson, Tony Marr 1968.
Ellingstring Buttress
This buttress is characterised by a horizontal break about one metre from the
ground.
141. Heather Wall 4m D
This imaginatively named climb takes the stepped left wall of the buttress.
M Berry with lads from Pollington Borstal 1958.
142. Itchy and Scratchy 4m VD
Climb the wall midway between Heather Wall and Pinnacle Chimney.
Kevin Mercer, Susan Nelson 16th May 1999.
143. Pinnacle Chimney 4m D
The chimney on the left of the main buttress.
M Berry with lads from Pollington Borstal 1958.
144. Two Startled Sheep 5m VS 5b
The steep wall left of Yaud Wall is climbed using small incuts.
1980’s.
145. Yaud Wall 5m VS 5a
Climb the awkward hanging corner on the left side of the face.
Geoff Milburn, Peter Martin Oct 1960.
146. Ellingstring 5m VS 4c **
Start below the centre of the small overhangs. Move slightly right to good holds
then pull up left to a pocket hold to finish. Steep, but fortunately not as
difficult as it looks.
Ron Kenyon, Stewart Wilson 1978 .
Climbed whilst checking routes for Wilson’s 1980 North of England Guide.
147. Diagonal 5m VS 4b *
Start immediately right of Ellingstring. Climb up to the undercut then follow it
up diagonally right to a strenuous finish.
Steve Wilson June 1966.
148. Gymnast 5m VS 5c
Take the undercut right arête direct.
Tony Marr, Alan Taylor 12th October 1980
149. Fiddlesticks 4m VS 5b
Climb the wall just right of the arête on flat holds. Looks easy doesn’t it!
Tony Marr 6th April 1997
150. Girgle 5m VD
A poor climb traversing the horizontal break.
Geoff Milburn, Peter Martin Oct 1960
Stainthorpe’s Buttress
This buttress is identified by a barrier of small overhangs at its right side.
151. Sweet Sixteen 4m VD
The left arête offers a poor climb.
1980’s. Several claims.
152. Fearby 6m VS 4b
Starts off the embedded block at the left of the buttress. Climb the front of
the buttress just right of the left arête.
Geoff Milburn, Peter Martin Oct 1960.
153. Alan’s Wall 6m HVS 5a (V0) **
Start as for Stainthorpe’s Wall but climb straight up using a thin flake.
Alan Taylor, Tony Marr 25th April 1999.
154. Stainthorpe’s Wall 6m E1 5b (V1) *
Start just right of Fearby. Pull up right to the break and finish via a pocket
and shallow groove.
Dave Stainthorpe (solo) 12th October 1980.
155. Variation Start 4m E1 5c (V2)
Start at the right hand end of the overhangs. Pull up then go leftwards to gain
the slot on Stainthorpe’s Wall, finish as for that route.
Tony Marr 1965. Climbed as a traverse crossing the wall before the top
section was added in 1980.
156. Only Sixteen 6m E1 6a (V3)
Another variation start to Stainthorpe’s Wall. Start under the overhangs then
pull up left to gain the slot and finish up the normal route.
Paul Ingham 1982.
157. Fascionationby 6m E2 5c
Climb the hanging groove right of Stainthorpe’s Wall with slightly suspect holds
to start.
Paul lngham [solo] 20th November 1983.
Buttress Seventeen
Smaller than Stainthorpe’s Buttress, yet again marked by a horizontal break at
half height.
158. Jug Handle Pull Up 5m VD
Step off the boulder and climb the left arête of the buttress. (The same arête
is 4b without the boulder.)
Geoff Milburn, Peter Martin Oct 1960
159. Wall Centre 5m VS 4b *
The centre of the buttress to a reachy finish.
1960’s.
160. Happy Daze 5m VS 4c
Start just left of the right edge of the lower wall. Trend left up the awkward
wall, cross the break to finish on small pockets.
Alan Taylor 6th May1979.
161. Double Mantelshelf 5m VD
Tackle the stepped groove at the right side of the buttress.
Geoff Milburn, Peter Martin Oct 1960.
162. Out on Bail 5m HVS 5b/c (V2)
Starting one mete left of Right Edge bridge up the capped groove to a broken
flake and a one finger pocket. Finish boldly, up the wall above.
Ian Henderson 19th November 2000 (solo)
163. Right Edge 4m HVS 5c (V2)
The short but problematic right arête is climbed direct.
Tony Marr 7th September 1980.
Worthless Buttress
This tiny buttress has an obvious ledge at half height. Climbing the front face
via the large ledge is
Easy Mantelshelf ,Difficult.
The Right Arête is 4b.
Ian Dunn 7th September 1980.
Lay-by Buttress
Identified by a thin flake crack up its centre.
164. Hand Traverse 6m D *
Start low at the break, at the left end of the buttress. Follow the crack line
right to finish just left of the blunt arête.
Geoff Milburn, Peter Martin Oct 1960
165. Rock Over 3m VS 4c
One metre left of the arête. About two and a half moves gets you up this short
problem.
166. Lay-by Arête 5m E2 6c (V7/8) ***
Climb the blunt arête starting on its right side and finishing on its left.
Paul lngham 1985 A mastery of levitation!
167. Lay-by Arête Direct 5m E3 7a (V9) ***
Climb the blunt arête on its right side throughout.
Ian Cummins 2001
168. Lay-by 5m HVS 6a (V3) **
Take the thin flake crack.
Alan Taylor [solo] July 1976 Taylor produces the hardest problem on the crag
at that time.
169. Little Baldy 5m HVS 6c (V5)
A desperately thin eliminate which climbs direct to the bullet scar on Rock On
Left-Hand via minuscule holds. Resist any temptation to cheat by using the flake
of Lay-by.
Ian ‘Steel Fingers’ Cummins 1985.
170. Rock On LH Var. 4m HVS 5c (V2) *
Reach the slot in the wall right of Lay-by. Hand traverse the slot leftwards
until it is possible to gain the bullet scar and exit.
Paul lngham 15th March 1981
171. Rock On 4m HVS 5c (V2) *
Gain the slot in the wall right of Lay-by then continue directly upwards.
Paul lngham 5th October 1980
172. Rock Off 4m HVS 5b (V1)
The vague arête right of Rock On.
Paul lngham 5th October 1980
173. All Off 3m HVS 5a
The short wall right of Rock Off can be climbed using a small flake.
Paul lngham 5th October 1980
Twenty Something Buttress
174. Ten Foot Moderate 3m M
The short corner crack.
M Berry with lads from Pollington Borstal 1958
175. Twenty Something 4m VS 4c (V2)
Climb the centre of the narrow face, immediately right of Ten Foot Moderate.
Steve Crowe 1994
176. Overhanging Arête 4m VS 5a (V3) **
Gymnastic moves up the overhanging arête.
Steve Wilson June 1966
177. Reason and Rowan 4m VS 6a (V3)
Jump or stretch to the obvious slot in the wall between Overhanging Arete and
Flaky Wall. Dyno to the top.
Andy Banks 14th November 2001
178. Flaky Wall 4m VS 4c (V1)
Climb the centre of the steep wall on the right.
Tony Marr 1970
179. Left Wall 4m HVD
Climb the blunt arête left of the wide crack. Strenuous.
1960.
180. Problem Traverse 5m VS 5c (V5)
A right to left traverse using a line of hand holds at 2m, from Left Wall to
finish up Twenty Something.
Tony Marr 5th October 1980
181. Two Chockstones 4m D
The wide crack passing two chockstones.
M Berry with lads from Pollington Borstal 1958
182. Right Overhang 3m D
A poor route right of the chimney on suspect blocks.
Attributed to Martyn Berry with lads from Pollington Borstal 1958
The Boulders
Embraces the small cluster of buttresses and boulders that stand in front of
each other. The rear two boulders, The Left & Right Cheek, sit close behind the
impressive middle boulders, Steptoe and Son. A few metres lower and in front is
the immaculate Curving Slab.
About twenty five metres below Curving Slab is a small War Memorial marking the
crash site of Halifax bomber JB. 926. The aircraft had collided with another
Halifax just before midnight on the 23rd. November 1943. The second Halifax
crashed onto Great Whernside. Sadly both crews were lost.
The Lower Tier - Curving Slab
183. Welcome Wall 4m VS 4b
Climb the centre of the left wall to an awkward finish.
Paul lngham October 1982
184. Stereo Android 5m VS 4c
Climb the arête on its left side resisting any temptation to move right to
finish.
Paul lngham October 1982
185. Stereo Right Hand 5m S
The arête on its slabby right-hand side. Without using the arête it is 4b.
1970’s.
Immediately right is……
186. Tommy’s Dilemma 5m VD *
Climb the centre of the narrow slab to the right of the arête.
Geoff Milburn, Peter Martin Oct 1960
187. Gypsy Wham 5m HD
A line up the centre of the slab via the obvious shelf at half height.
Geoff Milburn, Peter Martin Oct 1960
188. Tea Party Slab 4m V0 5a
Climb the slab just right of the shelf on small edges with a deliberate move
right to avoid the edge of the shelf of Gypsy Wham. (Using the shelf reduces the
grade to 4c).
Tony Marr, Eric Marr, Ken Jackson May 1965
189. Question of Balance 4m V2 5c
Climb the slab to the left of a small pocket.
Tony Marr, Eric Marr, Ken Jackson May 1965
190. Right Edge 4m V1 5b
Climb the slab to the right of the small pocket. Easier variations are possible
to the right.
Tony Marr, Eric Marr, Ken Jackson May 1965
The Middle Tier - Steptoe and Son
Two large boulders above make up the middle buttress with some good problems.
The left boulder with the capstone is The Son, the right boulder is Steptoe.
191. Work Out 7m V2 5b
In line with but to the left and below The Son is a good pumpy traverse along
the lip of a long low and slightly overhanging boulder.
The Son
192. Son of a Bitch 7m V3 5c
A left to right hand traverse of the left boulder. Start by stepping off blocks
below the left arête. Awkward moves lead around the arête then continue across
the wall, passing under the capstone to finish at the top of Curving Crack.
Steve Crowe 26th March 1995
193. Super Fury Animal 3m V13
Essentially a big dyno from a low side pull and a small crimp, to the top of the
boulder. Start sitting in the rift to the left of the capping stone.
Steve Dunning Autumn 2001
194. Sidewinder 3m V5
The wall below the capstone can also be climbed on very small but positive edges
from a traditional standing start. Finish pulling over the capstone above.
Steve Crowe 2002
195. Exocet 3m V11
The wall left of the curving crack from a sitting start. Powerful undercuts on
the edge of the overlap may lead via a dynamic move off a poor sloper to the
top. Moving left on to Sidewinder is only V9.
Steve Dunning winter 2001/2002
196. Stipule 3m V9
The wall just left of the curving crack from a sitting start. Powerful undercuts
on the edge of the overlap, cross over to good horizontal hold and throw to the
top.
Steve Dunning winter 2001/2002
The left edge of the curving crack also makes for a good 5b boulder problem
from a sitting start.
197. Curving Crack 3m VB 4c
Climb the awkward overhanging crack at the right end of the boulder.
Geoff Milburn, Peter Martin Oct 1960
It is possible to step through the narrow gap between Steptoe and Son to gain
access to the problems behind. To the right of the gap however is...
Steptoe Wall
The following two climbs are becoming harder due to ground erosion.
198. Bert Wells 3m V2 5c
Climb the thin flake on the short wall just right of the gap.
Paul lngham 20th November 1983
199. Centre Left 4m V2 5c
Start 2m right of the gap. Climb the overlap using a finger slot.
Tony Marr 13thNovember 1983
200. Steptoe 4m V3 6a **
Start 4m right of the gap. Ascend the centre of the wall on very small holds and
with increasing difficulty.
Steve Brown (solo) September 1982. A much tried problem finally succumbs.
201. Tiptoe 5m V0 5a **
Climb the arête of the Steptoe Wall on its left side. Technical climbing leads
to the first good hold and then precarious moves lead to the top. The right side
of the same arête is 5b without using the boulder.
Tony Marr, Eric Marr, Ken Jackson May 1965
Around to the back of the Steptoe Boulder in a narrow “corridor” is...
202. Bridge Chimney 3m D
Climb the gap between Steptoe and The Right Cheek.
1970’s.
203. No Cheek, Dr Livingstone 3m VS 4b
Climb at the same place as Bridge Chimney but without recourse to the wall of
The Right Cheek.
1990’s.
204. Shorty’s Dilemma 3m VS 5b
Climbs the wall directly opposite Micro Corner. Step into the slot from the
left. No bridging.
Tony Marr 19th January 1997
205. Pod 3m V6
From a sit start use the large pockets to span for the groove then the top.
Steve Dunning
The Upper Tier - The Left Cheek
The next recorded climbs are to be found down “The Corridor” behind Steptoe and
Son and are described from left to right, commencing on The Left Cheek.
206. Stomach Traverse 8m Amusing
The obvious horizontal cleft is more popular with small children.
Martyn Berry 1958.
207. Bratt Pack 3m VS 4c
The centre of the wall left of the arête. The further left the easier the
climbing.
Andrew Webb Mid 1970’s
208. Play-A-Long 4m HVS 5b
The main arête can be climbed on either side.
Andrew Webb Mid 1970’s
209. Wild Thing 3m VS 4b
Step off the block in the centre of the right wall; pull right with hands on the
break, then straight through the roof. Take care with a flexing flake!
Andrew Webb Mid 1970’s
210. Cunning Stunts 3m V2 5c
From the top of Steptoe Buttress launch across the crevasse to a large ‘chicken
head’ just right of the arete above Stomach Traverse. Mantel to the top.
Kim Lazonby 14th November 2001
211. Cunning Linguist 3m V1 5b
From the top of Steptoe leap across the void two metres right of Cunning Stunts
to a creaky flake or (safer but harder - 6a V3) to slopers just above. Pull over
on more slopers.
Andy Banks 14th November 2001
The Right Cheek
Back down “The Corridor”, just past Bridge Chimney is...
212. Micro Corner 4m V6 6b
The obvious blank looking corner.
Paul lngham 28th November 1982. Another “impossible” problem succumbs.
213. Problem Arête 4m VB 4c
Ascend the left side of the arête to the right of Micro Corner.
Tony Marr 28th November 1982.
214. Slab and Mantelshelf 3m M
Climb the embedded block to finish on the arête. Poor.
Martyn Berry 1958.
Just right of Slab and Mantelshelf and set back a few metres is a small wall
with a steep left arête
215. Left Arête 3m D
Climb the left arête of the short wall.
Tony Marr 7th September 1980.
216. Goblin’s Ear 3m VD
Climb the wall via the small curving flake.
Tony Marr 7th September 1980.
A narrow chimney separates this small buttress from...
(All the Twos) Buttress Twenty Two
217. 3.3 Metre Slab 3.3m HS 4b
Just right of Goblin’s Ear is a slab with a faint crack running up its centre.
Climb the wall left of the crack.
Steve Crowe. 26th March 1995
218. Ten Foot Slab 10ft D
Climb the slabby arête to the right of the faint crack.
M Berry with lads from Pollington Borstal 1958
The next problem starts at a lower level and climbs the right edge of the Ten
Foot Slab arête.
219. Davies Ramp 6m E2 6a
Climb the wall about 1m right of the arête, without using the boulder or the
arête to finish up the triangular-shaped ramp.
Richard Davies 1985
The next three routes are all variations that tackle the wall between Davies
Ramp and the fine arête of Cypher.
220. Simple Sally 6m V8 6c *
Just right of the last climb is a harder and more direct version. Climb the
centre of wall direct via a good finger hold to finish up the ramp.
Dave Slater 28th August 1994.
221. Anniemutt 7m V10 7a
Climbs the centre of the blank wall via crimpy dynamic moves. No sneaking up the
crimps just left of the arête.
Steve Dunning Jan 2001
222. Holeshot 7m V9 6c
Start as for the last climb. From the good finger hold in the middle of the
wall, move up and rightwards passed the obvious pocket to finish at the top of
the unclimbed arête. Very sustained.
Ian Cummins November 2000
223. Cypher 7m V13 7a
Climb the prominent arête. A hard start leads to a desperate move, then easier
to the top.
Ben Moon 4th March 2002
Andy Earl climbing
Cypher
To the right is an impressive unclimbed overhanging wall and the final few
problems.
224. Chockstone Pull Up 3m D
The chockstone filled corner crack. Do as the name implies!
Attributed to Martyn Berry with lads from Pollington Borstal 1958
225. All the Twos 10m V4 6a *
A strenuous traverse along the lip of the impressive wall. Start up Chockstone
Pull Up and traverse leftwards with decreasing difficulty and increasing
seriousness to join the finish of Ten Foot Slab.
Steve Crowe 23rd April 1995. Another arm stretching addition.
226. Supple Wall 3m V5 6b **
Climb the narrow wall immediately right of Chockstone Pull Up and just left of
the arête of Sulky Little Boys either using the sloping boss on the left or
utilizing the crimps on the right.
Ian Cummins 1985
227. Sulky Little Boys 4m V7 6c ***
The short but difficult arête is climbed on its right side. If you are lucky!
Ian Cummins 1985
228. Slanting Flake LH 4m V3 5c *
An interesting variation on Slanting Flake, starting at the middle of the wall.
Using the bottom of the diagonal flake, rock over leftwards to gain a thin flake
and finish up the arête.
Paul Ingham 30th November 1983.
229. Slanting Flake 4m HS 4b **
Hand traverse up the diagonal flake at the right end of the wall to an
interesting finish. Easy when you know how! A direct
finish is possible at V2.
Geoff Milburn July 1959. Direct Finish Steve Mullen
Spring 2008.
Full
details in the
North East England Guide
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