O.S. Sheet 93 NGR 513013
Aspect South
Altitude 270m
Approach time 20 minutes
Situation and Character
So called because ‘it’s not a dale’. The crags lie in Snotterdale Plantation and are not easy to find.
History
Members of the C.M.C. discovered the right hand crag, but nothing was recorded. It was rediscovered by Steve Brown, Dave Paul and friends. There was no further recorded activity until Tony and Linda Marr recorded Spider’s Eliminate Arête Finish and Desperandum Scoop Finish in July 1986
Access and
Approaches
The best approach is to go up Scugdale, as for Scot Crags, but leave the road at Raikes Farm. Pass to the right of the farm and follow a good track past Raikes Wood to Snotterdale Plantation.
The Climbs
The climbs are described from left to right.
Castle Buttress
1. Spider’s Eliminate
10m HVS 4c *
The well defined crack on the left hand side of the buttress. Climb the overhang and crack above by either bold lay backing or very awkward jamming.
2.
Spider’s Web 10m HVS 5a
Start at Spider’s Eliminate; move out left to a small ledge, then up passing another ledge to gain a short corner and thus the top.
3.
Desperandum 10m E2 5c *
A series of cracks left of No. 2 route are climbed with great difficulty but excellent protection. A superb route.
4.
Spider’s Eliminate Arête Finish 12m E1 5b
Climb the layback crack to the ledge. Move out right and climb the arête.
Tony & Linda Marr July 1986
5.
Desperandum Scoop Finish 12m E2 6a
Climb the steep fingery cracks of DESPERANDUM until it is possible to step left into a very steep scoop. Exit the scoop via the wall on the left. Strenuous.
Tony & Linda Marr July 1986
6.
No. 2 Route 12m MS
A prominent chimney divides the buttress into two parts. Climb the cracks just left of the chimney. Finish up the bulging slab on the left.
7.
C.R. Crack 12m VD
The chimney is climbed to a ledge. Finish up the right-hand crack.
8.
Slings 10m HVS 5b
The arête 5m to the right of C.R. Crack is climbed on the right-hand side. Move round the arête and up to the top. Poorly protected
9.
Fissure 10m D
Start as for Slings, move right up the diagonally sloping crack to the holly. Finish up the crack on the left.
SNOTTERDALE RIGHT HAND
NGR 513014
Same approach as for the Snotterdale Crag. Once above these rocks walk ¼ mile due east and descend through some trees over the remnants of a wall to the East end of the crag.
Upper Tier
The routes are described from right to left.
Owl Buttress
The small wedge shaped buttress at the right end.
10.
David & Goliath 5m HS 4a
The wall on well brushed slots.
11.
Myth 5m MVS 4b
The crack to the right of Soothsayer.
12.
Soothsayer 7m E1 5b
The wall on the left of the buttress is climbed direct.
Main Wall
13.
Keep Crack 5m S
Start 7m left of Soothsayer. Climb the crack starting off a grassy ledge at mid-height.
14.
Sixth Sense 7m E3 6a
The wall on the left of Keep Crack climbed via three small pockets.
15.
Saxon 7m E1 5b
The crack in the middle of the wall with a large tree growing out of the top.
16.
Somnium 12m E3 6a
The faint groove line above the overhang is gained via a series of undercuts over the roof then up the groove. Finish the wall direct.
17.
V. Groove Climb 7m VD
The prominent V groove 50m left of Saxon. Climb the groove left of the square roof. Scramble to finish.
Lower Tier
18.
The Wall 7m E1 5c
The wall to the right of the arête.
19.
Excalibur 8m MVS 4b
The impressive arête to the left of the Wall.
20.
Brick 7m VS 4c
The Wall and groove 3m right of The Wall.
21.
Mid Height 5m VS 5a
The crack on the end of the buttress is climbed direct.
