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                        INTERNATIONAL MEET SOUTH AFRICA 23.04.2005 - 01.05.2005

The week started with a big gathering at the Mountain Sanctuary Park in the Magaliesberg, about two hours NW of Johannesburg.  The majority of the visiting climbers were from Britain (8 in total), plus 2 from Belgium and 3 from Finland.  The local climbers had done an excellent job of picking up us visiting climbers at all hours of the day and night and then transporting us out to the meet.  Some of us were even lucky enough to grab a quick route down in the Cedarberg Kloof with the spectacular Boggle(19) coming highly recommended.  That evening we were warmly welcomed by Ulrike Kiefer of the MCSA, before enjoying a slideshow by one of SA’s leading activists Alaard Hueffner.

The climbing in the Magaliesberg is found in various kloofs (gorges) which vary in height and width, but usually have some water running through them.  The impending walls of the kloofs plus the abundance of trees provided plenty of shade and a good climbing temperature.  Over the next couple of days we sampled the delights of just a few of these kloofs, with everyone’s ability being well catered for and plenty of classics climbed.  In Upper Tonquani the route Hawk’s Eye (15) was well talked about, with an amazing swing ‘under the eye’, that was outrageous for its grade.  Mhlabatini was a great hit with everyone, its eye catching lines on immaculate pale quartzite proving very popular.  Some of the stand-out routes here were Jelly Beans(17), Quicksilver(19), Nothing Ventured Nothing Gained(22) and the aptly named Spacewalk (21).  The narrow Fernkloof with its steep, powerful sports routes was an impressive venue and a must for those climbing 24 and above.  Beware; it’s a lot steeper than it looks!

A day trip out to the ‘country’ venue of Wilgepoort was organised on the Monday.  This multi-pitch crag was beautifully situated next to the Wilge River and gave highly enjoyable climbing on deep pink quartzite (the rock was in fact very similar to Torridonian sandstone).  A couple of the classics here included Cabernet-Muscadel (19) and The Key (20 A1 or about 22 free).  Unfortunately, due to the long drive we were limited to one route each.

Whilst most of us had been climbing around the Magaliesberg, Alison and Phil had been dragged out of their sleeping bags at 5am on the Sunday and driven up to the amazing Blouberg Mountain.  Their 5 hour drive was followed by a 4 hour walk-in with heavy sacks to the bivvi cave on the side of the mountain.  An alpine start the next day saw them start climbing at dawn, to eventually top out at dusk 12 hours later.  They climbed a combination of two ‘moon’ routes with 11 quality pitches, mainly in the 19-21 range.  Returning happy but tired late Tuesday evening they were a bit disappointed to be told we were to be up at 5am the next morning to pack up and set out for our next destination – the sports climbing mecca of Waterval Boven.

Waterval Boven is South Africa’s largest sports climbing venue with over 500 routes on solid dark red quartzite. We were based at the friendly Roc n Rope bunk house. We all made the most of our short time ticking such classics as Babies Blood gives me Gas(18) and Shout at the Devil(20) at The Coven; Bonar(20), Jigaboo(24) and Jambo (25) at The Restaurant; and the absolutely stunning Rude Bushmen (24) at the Superbowl.  After an enjoyable Braai (bbq) rustled up by Ulrike on the Thursday night the group separated on the Friday lunchtime with the majority heading out to Kransberg, whilst Pieterjan De Roo (from Belgium) Jo, Steve and myself set off for the Bluoberg experience. 

Bluoberg really was awesome.  Up at 4am and doing the 1.5 hour walk around and down to the base in the dark, setting off up the route at first light to the sound of distant drums, climbing 11-12 long pitches on generally immaculate pink sandstone, topping out at dusk, before heading off down through the aptly named maze in the dark before finally arriving back at the bivvi cave at 7.30pm.  What a day, an amazing experience.  The classics The Last Moon(19), Teddy Bear’s Picnic(21) and The Scatterlings(22) were all ascended in fine style.

Unfortunately for the rest of the group the ‘country’ venue of Kransberg, although a beautiful situation, was a bit out of condition, being vegetated, wet and covered in vulture poo! However, several routes were still ticked, with teams being lucky to top out before dark. Every epic just added to the whole SA experience.

This was an amazing trip and thoroughly enjoyed by all that took part.  It was extremely well organised and special thanks must go to Ulrike for all the work she put in.  Greg Devine and Robert Cromarty also did an excellent job at driving us all to the crags and pointing out the ‘must-do’ routes. We were joined by other locals at various times during the week, their friendliness and enthusiasm played a massive part in the success of the meet.  Thanks to you all.

South Africa - Grade Conversion Table

All the above pictures are by Phil Black

More photos of South Africa by Pieterjan de Roo .

More photos of South Africa by Steve Crowe