The South Barra Isles are a small archipelago of islands at the southern tip of the Outer Hebrides of Scotland. The group consists of ten islands, and numerous rocks. Many of the islands are extremely small. Vatersay is the remaining inhabited island, it is the closest to Barra and has been linked by road via a causeway since 1991. Only Berneray, Mingulay (the largest island), Pabbay and Sandray having been inhabited in the past.
The South Barra Isles from Castlebay
© Photo Steve Crowe
Berneray is at the southern tip of the chain, a lighthouse sits on the highest point and there is a road leading down to the jetty. Perhaps surprisingly, water can be a problem on Berneray. A 200m abseil route is essential for climbing the dozen or so routes on Berneray. Mingulay and Pabbay are the most popular of these islands as they offer some of the finest trad routes anywhere in the UK. The rock is perfect Lewisian gneiss. Their remoteness and difficulty of access only adds to the unique experience. The seriousness of the remote situation should not be underestimated, and parties should consider some means of communication (marine band VHF or satellite ‘phone). A 100m abseil route is essential for gaining access to the best of the cliffs on Mingulay and Pabbay. There are no huge crags on Sandray but the few smaller cliffs up to 50m comprise of particularly immaculate Lewisian gneiss. Of the smaller islands only Lingay has recorded climbs.
Visit Rik Highams photoblog for some excellent photos from Mingulay and Pabbay.
Caledonian MacBrayne run a regular daily ferry service from Oban to Castlebay on Barra.
British Airways also operate daily flights from Glasgow to Barra (not Sundays) landing on the beach at Traigh Mhor, 7 miles from Castlebay. Flight time is just over an hour. The baggage limit may prove to be a stumbling block.
One of the local fishermen, Donald MacLeod transports groups of 12 climbers out to the islands. Contact 01871 890384.
Castlebay Accommodation
Wild camping in Barra is possible on the east side of the bay at Leadaig, though there is no water or facilities. It is also possible to camp less than 100m from the pier enquire locally, if unsure. Dunard Hostel lies 300m south of the pier. There are a couple of B&B's in town, together with two pubs. The Castlebay Hotel serves particularly fine fresh sea food. Castlebay Tourist Information can provide up to date info.
The last of the inhabitants left Mingulay in 1912, leaving behind a precarious existence based on crofting, fishing and fowling. The ruined village on Mingulay, slowly being engulfed by the advancing sand dunes, stands as a testament to this unequal struggle. The bay, from which the sands are blowing, provides the only landing place; it is sheltered enough in calm weather but provides no protection when the wind is from the east. There are no facilities or services of any kind on the islands.
Pabbay, Mingulay and Berneray are all designated as Sites of Special Scientific Interest and Special Protection Areas, due to the huge numbers of nesting seabirds. On the cliffs, auks (razorbills, guillemots & puffins), shags, cormorants, kittiwakes and fulmars may all be encountered, breeding between February and mid-July. Disturbance of any birds should be kept to a minimum. The majority of routes described climb clean rock with few nesting birds present, most of which can be avoided. In particular, fulmars, have the distinctive trait of vomiting half-digested fish oil when approached on the nest, and should be given a wide berth wherever possible. On the hillsides bonxies (great skuas) protect their territory by diving at invaders. On Mingulay the hillsides leading down to Guarsay Mor and Rubha Liath both hold substantial bonxie colonies – be warned!
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| © Photos Steve Crowe |
Skye and the Hebrides volume 2 (1996)
Scottish Mountaineering Club new routes online here.
Scottish Rock Volume Two by Gary Latter
A selected guide that includes Mingulay and Pabbay
Available from Pesda Press Ltd