Map Reference: NT924005
Alt. 300m
North West Facing
15 mins
Situation and Character
South Yardhope has a splendid situation and outlook being only 400 metres
from the road and is climbable for most of the year due to the lack of drainage
on the pinnacles. The crag is situated high above a semi-wooded valley on the
Otterburn Ranges, which gives it an air of remoteness and solitude out of all
proportion to the distance of approach. This fine crag faces northwest and dries
reasonably quickly in most places. The rock is of good quality but does not run
to holds or protection; this, coupled with its steepness, means that many of the
routes are of a high standard of difficulty. Between the crag and the road are
some interesting caves where a small stream flows through the crag.
Approaches and Access
The crag lies 3 miles southwest of Holystone on the Ministry of Defence
firing range. Although it is possible to climb on the crag at many times during
the week throughout the year - do not climb when the red flags are flying.
Permission should be sought in advance from Otterburn Range Control. Follow the Ministry of Defence road out of Holystone
to the edge of the 'danger area' then turn left and drive for 1 mile until the
crag is seen a few hundred metres away on the right. Alternatively, turn left
from the Elsdon-Rothbury road at the Billsmor View Point and follow the winding,
narrow lane until the crag is seen on the left. Do not touch any military
ordnance that may be found lying around this area. It can be dangerous! There is
no CRoW right of access to the crag. It is on land regulated by military bylaws
and as this is excepted land under the Act it is excluded from the right of
access.
Access to Otterburn Training Area. 23% of Northumberland National Park is
owned by the Ministry of Defence and used as a military training area. It is the
shared aim of the Northumberland National Park and the MoD to encourage as much
access to the area as possible. The ranges are open for access until Tue 15th
May, which means that Linshiels
and South Yardhope are
accessible, peregrines permitting. Definitely worth a visit in these super dry
conditions. It is essential that the access protocol is adhered to: Phone 01830
520569 to get permission when you are about to go onto the range, you will be
given a reference code, write it down. When you leave the ranges, ring
the number again and quote the reference. This way they will know that you are
off the range and it's safe to resume firing. There are way marked permissive
paths you have to use to approach the crags which are kept clear of dangerous
ordnance. For future reference, to check if the ranges are going to be open
check
here or phone 0191 2394201.
FIRST ASCENTS:
| Bran Flakes | John Earl and Bob Hutchinson | |||
| Comfortably Numb | Paul Stewart and Bob Smith | 23 | July | 1980 |
| Footloose and Flying Free | Bob Smith and Tommy Smith | 31 | August | 1980 |
| Funeral Drum | Bob Smith, Paul Stewart | |||
| Godzilla | Bob Hutchinson and John Earl | June | 1975 | |
| Godzooki | Tommy Smith | |||
| Heaven Can Wait | Karl Telfer, Graham Telfer | |||
| Kong | Bob Smith and Tommy Smith | |||
| No Time for Prayers | Karl Telfer, Graham Telfer | |||
| Original Route | Ken MacDonald | |||
| Popcorn Surprise | Bob Hutchinson and John Earl | |||
| Priapismic Failure | Bob Smith and Andy Moss | 20 | June | 1984 |
| Quiet County | Paul Stewart and John Earl | August | 1980 | |
| Stella | John Syrett | |||
| The Arête | Bob Hutchinson | |||
| The Camel’s Back | John Earl and Bob Hutchinson | |||
| The Camel’s Back Alt Start | Bob Smith, Tommy Smith | |||
| The Last Straw | Hugh Banner | |||
| The On Sight Gobbler | Bob Smith and Tommy Smith | 27 | May | 1981 |
| The Reaper | John Earl | |||
| The Splits | Bob Hutchinson and John Earl | |||
| The Vegetarian | Bob Smith | |||
| Yard of Hope | John Earl |
Gallery:
Karl Telfer leading the extremely bold and delicate Stella E4 5c
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Northumberland Climbing Guide The definitive guide to climbing routes in Northumberland. Updates available from the NMC here.
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The Northumberland Bouldering Guide The Second Edition of the guide was written and produced by the people who developed the area. Updates available from the NMC here.
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For more information about this crag visit the NMC website.