A south facing Whin Sill crag. Loose rock and encroaching vegetation has had a negative impact on this crag. Over a dozen lines have been climbed and were recorded in the 1979 NMC guide. This is reprinted here as a historical record only.
SPINDLESTONE
CRAG
Map Reference: NU152338
Alt.
200 feet (60 m)
By
John Earl
INTRODUCTION
Spindlestone
is a south-facing Whin Sill crag which, though broken, has routes good and long
enough to warrant description.
APPROACHES
The
crag is situated near Warren Mill Caravan Site, between Belford and Bamburgh and
is easily seen from the road when approaching from the A1. Cars can be parked
near the Caravan Site and the crag reached by traversing the hillside on the
left of the site.
THE
CLIMBS
The
climbs are described from left to right and are all contained on the west end of
the crag which contains two large buttresses. Other lines exist but loose rock
and brambles make future development a hazardous proposition. Several loose
blocks have been removed, but some of the holds still require care.
1 Obverse Route 45 feet Very difficult
An
ascending traverse starting just left of Patella. Move up and along the wall
crossing the chimney and then straight up.
2 Patella 35 feet Severe
The
steep wall 10 feet left of West Chimney. Climb up using rounded holds. Bear left
to a mantelshelf and move slightly right to the top.
3 West Chimney 30 feet Very difficult
The
obvious ‘V’ shaped chimney.
4
Pilgrimage 50 feet Very severe (5a)
Climb
the black groove and move right beneath a small overhang. Ascend the wall,
moving left onto the aręte Finish straight up on doubtful holds.
5 Alley-Sloper 30 feet Difficult
Takes
the square cut corner to the right of the first buttress.
6 East Chimney 35 feet Very difficult
The
chimney to the left of Shotgun Wedding.
7 Shotgun Wedding 50 feet Severe
Starts
15 feet left of Blockhead on Number Two Buttress. Climb the curving crack and
blocks above. Finish up the short steep wall.
8 Dascant Route 60 feet Moderate
The
obvious wide and easy chimney on Number Two Buttress.
9 Blockhead 60 feet Very severe (4c)
An
excellent climb culminating in a series of interesting mantelshelf moves. The
climb starts just left of the buttress. Move up to and past the perched block.
Continue on awkwardly spaced holds to the top.
10 Bisto 45 feet Very difficult
The
twin cracks to the right of Blockhead. Climb the cracks and the blocks to the
top of the crag.
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Northumberland Climbing Guide The definitive guide to climbing routes in Northumberland. Updates available from the NMC here.
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The Northumberland Bouldering Guide The Second Edition of the guide was written and produced by the people who developed the area. Updates available from the NMC here.
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