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Stoupe Brow

 

OS Sheet: 94

Map Reference: NZ958023 

Aspect: North Facing

Altitude: 

Approach Time: 2 minutes

 

The view over Robin Hood's Bay from Stoupe Brow Quarry


History
It would appear as if there has been a lot of abseiling or top roping at the quarry for some time, although the first routes were not recorded until 1996, when A.Griffiths and Party ascended two lines up that largest boulder ‘Barry’. Mark Parkin and Steve Parkin also bouldered here. Tom Newman added a hard problem in 2009. There was two routes bolted by unknown parties around that time. The crag was then visited by D.Warburton and F.Cookson who recorded the first routes on the quarry walls, with the quality Central Crack and The Arete. Little more has been recorded at the crag, despite the obvious easy cracklines and hard, bold faces. A definite playground for future activists.

Situation and Character
Situated on Stoup Brow overlooking Robin Hoods Bay. A quiet quarry near the picturesque town, of Robin Hood's Bay on the North Sea Coast. The Quarry walls are around 10 - 15 metres tall and seem to contain a concentration of decent, steep routes with prominent cracklines, scoops and hard bold arętes and walls. The prominent aręte has been bolted by climbers! but without the bolts is a stunning aręte test piece at E5 6a. (F6c with bolts). The top of the crag is littered with belay stakes. Evidentially someone has spent a lot of time up here, bolting routes and placing the stakes. The stakes are useful of setting up lower offs, as the top outs are onto grass, which would be dangerous if at all damp. The Quarry floor contains two of the largest boulders in the North Yorkshire Moors, which contain some varied climbing and bouldering. Tom Newman has climbed some hard boulder problems in 2009 but I have no details yet.

Access and Approaches
Follow Signs to Ravenscar (not the Hasty Bank one!) off the A171 eight miles south of Whitby. Follow the signs to Ravenscar, turning left at every opportunity. Turn left at a windmill towards the obvious mast and down the hill for approximately a mile until a lay-by on the right and the quarry on the left is apparent, The quarry is a two minute walk from the lay-by, via a path cut through the jungle of Gorse. If the Lay-by is full (it won’t be) another layby is situated a little distance down the track that branches off left 20 metres further down.

Climbers have been asked to leave the quarry. Check with the BMC regarding the current access situation.

The Climbs
The left end of the crag offers some easy possibilities up broken rock on a northwest-facing slab. The first four routes are suffering somewhat from a lack of traffic.

The Walrus Wall
Perhaps the best climbing on the cliff, with brilliant bold and difficult face climbing twinned with some excellent cracks and the classic Arete.

1. The Left Wall 7m grade?
The line of Bolts (!?) at the far left-hand side of the quarry. A poor line.
Unknown

2. On Crack 12m E4 6a?
The left hand diagonal crack is thinner and steeper than it’s counterpart.
Unclimbed

Between On Crack and The White Scoop is an obvious wall which is even more obviously lacking in gear. The faint trail of holds would suggest it is possible, although certainly harder than ‘The White Scoop’.

3. The White Scoop 13m E7 6b **
The Scoop is gained from 4 metres up Central Crack (last runner) and is followed throughout. A sustained route, with a definite sequence. Begging for the bold direct start.
Shunted Only

4. Central Crack 14m E2 5c **
The obvious central crack to the right of an orange roof is climbed, leading to difficult bridging moves up the scoop. Finish direct and fast. Protection is perfect.

Franco Cookson, Dave Warburton 02/Jul/2009

Another face with a rickety flake at half height, that would take RPs. Technical difficulties likely to be around 6b, and with potential for a few variations.

5. The Aręte 12m E5 6a **
Stunningly sustained and reachy aręte climbing. Great position, shame its not at Scugdale or Ravenscar etc. Unfortunately bolted, which makes the Climb (F6c+) as it's a clip up.
Franco Cookson solo 02/Jul/2009

The Bay
The central walls encompass the buttresses between ‘The Arete’ and ‘The Right Flank’. They have some easier cracks and impossible-looking slabs and walls. No routes have been recorded despite the obvious potential.

The Right Flank
These are the buttresses at the far right-hand end of the quarry. The only part of the quarry to contain some suspect rock.

6. The Bar Steward 12m E3 5c *
The classic hanging jamming crack with a ‘big feel’. Situated 20m to the left of Seaside Slab and gained by a poor start up the slabby Scoop. Crying out for the obvious start up the finger crack to the right.
Shunted only

7. Seaside Slab 10m Severe
The wrinkled slab at the extreme right-hand side of the quarry with some snappy rock.
Franco Cookson Solo 21/01/2010

The Boulders

The Small Boulder (Bervert)

8. The Crack V7
The crack on the wall facing Barry gets harder as you get higher.

The Large Boulder (Barry)

9. Barry not very Bold E1 6a
Tackle the seaward face of the boulder just left of the undercut face.
Andrew Griffiths solo 7th July 1996

10. Barry the Boulder E4 6a
Steep and powerful moves up the undercut aręte on the landward face.
Andrew Griffiths, Mick Taylor 7th July 1996

Tom Newman has climbed an Font 8a problem on this boulder.
 

 

 

Robin Hoods bay

Photo: Franco Cookson Collection

The large Boulder Boulder Griff leading Barry the Boulder


 

 

 

The Smaller Boulder Two

 

Steve and Mark Parkin bouldering on the smaller boulder at Ravensdale Quarry

Mark Parkin   Photo; Steve Parkin

Mark Parkin   Photo; Steve Parkin

Mark Parkin   Photo; Steve Parkin

Steve Parkin   Photo; Mark Parkin

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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