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OS Sheet: 94
Map Reference:
NZ958023
Aspect: North Facing
Altitude:
Approach Time: 2 minutes

The view over Robin
Hood's Bay from Stoupe Brow Quarry
History
It would appear as if there has been a lot of abseiling or top roping at the
quarry for some time, although the first routes were not recorded until 1996,
when A.Griffiths and Party ascended two lines up that largest boulder ‘Barry’.
Mark Parkin and Steve Parkin also bouldered here. Tom Newman added a hard
problem in 2009. There was two routes bolted by unknown parties around that
time. The crag was then visited by D.Warburton and F.Cookson who recorded the
first routes on the quarry walls, with the quality Central Crack and The Arete.
Little more has been recorded at the crag, despite the obvious easy cracklines
and hard, bold faces. A definite playground for future activists.
Situation and Character
Situated on Stoup Brow overlooking Robin Hoods Bay. A quiet quarry near the
picturesque town, of Robin Hood's Bay on the North Sea Coast. The Quarry walls
are around 10 - 15 metres tall and seem to contain a concentration of decent,
steep routes with prominent cracklines, scoops and hard bold arętes and walls.
The prominent aręte has been bolted by climbers! but without the bolts is a
stunning aręte test piece at E5 6a. (F6c with bolts). The top of the crag is
littered with belay stakes. Evidentially someone has spent a lot of time up
here, bolting routes and placing the stakes. The stakes are useful of setting up
lower offs, as the top outs are onto grass, which would be dangerous if at all
damp. The Quarry floor contains two of the largest boulders in the North
Yorkshire Moors, which contain some varied climbing and bouldering. Tom Newman
has climbed some hard boulder problems in 2009 but I have no details yet.
Access and Approaches
Follow Signs to Ravenscar (not the Hasty Bank one!) off the A171 eight miles
south of Whitby. Follow the signs to Ravenscar, turning left at every
opportunity. Turn left at a windmill towards the obvious mast and down the hill
for approximately a mile until a lay-by on the right and the quarry on the left
is apparent, The quarry is a two minute walk from the lay-by, via a path cut
through the jungle of Gorse. If the Lay-by is full (it won’t be) another layby
is situated a little distance down the track that branches off left 20 metres
further down.
Climbers have been asked to leave the quarry. Check with the BMC regarding the
current access situation.
The Climbs
The left end of the crag offers some easy possibilities up broken rock on a
northwest-facing slab. The first four routes are suffering somewhat from a lack
of traffic.
The Walrus Wall
Perhaps the best climbing on the cliff, with brilliant bold and difficult
face climbing twinned with some excellent cracks and the classic Arete.
1. The Left Wall 7m grade?
The line of Bolts (!?) at the far left-hand side of the quarry. A
poor line.
Unknown
2. On Crack 12m E4 6a?
The left hand diagonal crack is thinner and steeper than it’s
counterpart.
Unclimbed
Between On Crack and The White Scoop is an obvious wall which is even more
obviously lacking in gear. The faint trail of holds would suggest it is
possible, although certainly harder than ‘The White Scoop’.
3. The White Scoop 13m E7 6b **
The Scoop is gained from 4 metres up Central Crack (last runner) and
is followed throughout. A sustained route, with a definite sequence. Begging for
the bold direct start.
Shunted Only
4. Central Crack 14m E2 5c **
The obvious central crack to the right of an orange roof is climbed,
leading to difficult bridging moves up the scoop. Finish direct and fast.
Protection is perfect.
Franco Cookson, Dave Warburton 02/Jul/2009
Another face with a rickety flake at half height, that would take RPs. Technical
difficulties likely to be around 6b, and with potential for a few variations.
5. The Aręte 12m E5 6a **
Stunningly sustained and reachy aręte climbing. Great position, shame
its not at Scugdale or Ravenscar etc. Unfortunately bolted, which makes the
Climb (F6c+) as it's a clip up.
Franco Cookson solo 02/Jul/2009
The Bay
The central walls encompass the buttresses between ‘The Arete’ and ‘The
Right Flank’. They have some easier cracks and impossible-looking slabs and
walls. No routes have been recorded despite the obvious potential.
The Right Flank
These are the buttresses at the far right-hand end of the quarry. The only
part of the quarry to contain some suspect rock.
6. The Bar Steward 12m E3 5c *
The classic hanging jamming crack with a ‘big feel’. Situated 20m to
the left of Seaside Slab and gained by a poor start up the slabby Scoop. Crying
out for the obvious start up the finger crack to the right.
Shunted only
7. Seaside Slab 10m Severe
The wrinkled slab at the extreme right-hand side of the quarry with
some snappy rock.
Franco Cookson Solo 21/01/2010
The Boulders
The Small Boulder (Bervert)
8. The Crack V7
The crack on the wall facing Barry gets harder as you get higher.
The Large Boulder (Barry)
9. Barry not very Bold E1 6a
Tackle the seaward face of the boulder just left of the undercut
face.
Andrew Griffiths solo 7th July 1996
10. Barry the Boulder E4 6a
Steep and powerful moves up the undercut aręte on the landward face.
Andrew Griffiths, Mick Taylor 7th July 1996
Tom Newman has climbed an Font 8a problem on this boulder.
The Smaller Boulder
Two
| Steve and Mark Parkin
bouldering on the smaller boulder at Ravensdale Quarry |
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Mark Parkin
Photo; Steve Parkin |
Mark Parkin
Photo; Steve Parkin |
Mark Parkin
Photo; Steve Parkin |
Steve Parkin
Photo; Mark Parkin |
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