Map Reference: NY672670
A compact, pleasant north facing sandstone crag with over a dozen routes up to HVS.
Turn north off the B6318 Military Road half a mile east of Greenhead along a no-through road, signposted to the Carvoran Roman Army Museum. Follow the road for about 1 mile past the museum until High Old Shields farm is reached on the left and the crag on the right. It is important to ask for permission, the landowner is sympathetic to climbers but asks that climbers see him at the farm before climbing. There is a right of access to the crag under CRoW.
The crag was
discovered by Alan Stark and developed by members of Eden Valley M. C. in early
1976. The information was originally published in “North Of England Rock Climbs”
in 1992, and is reproduced here with the permission of Stewart Wilson.
Seen from below the crag consists of 3 sections: Left Hand Buttress, Main Face
and Right Hand Buttress. Steep grassy gullies separate each section. The best
descent is to the right of Right Hand Buttress at the west end of the crag. The
climbs are described from left to right as you face the crag.
Left Hand Buttress
A barrel shaped buttress with three faces. The front face is undercut.
1. Hopesike Wall 7m VD
Not an outstanding climb. Start 4 metres up the slope from the foot of the
buttress at the foot of a broken groove. Climb the groove past a small jutting
nose and after 3 metres step right and finish up rightwards on ledges.
2. Green Fingers 7m HVS 5b
Start just left of the front face at an obvious V-groove. Climb the V-groove to
good holds in a break above the overhang. Pull over strenuously using a thin
crack. Finish direct.
3. This 8m VS 4b *
A good little climb, steep and interesting. Start at the foot of the front face
at a square hole-like recess. Climb to the prominent overhang and ascend the
thin crack splitting its right hand side. Climb the wall direct on good holds.
4. That 6m S
A worthwhile, steep wall climb. Start below the centre of the steep right hand
wall. Climb the wall on good holds.
Main Face
This is about 20 metres long and has a ledge system at half height. The
upper left hand side is dominated by huge unclimbed roofs. The right hand part
has an obvious green drainage line which ends as a deep chimney/crack and is the
line of Walk Like A Dog. The main face ends at an aręte identified by an arrow
shaped overhang at 5 metres.
5. Snipe 8m HVD
Start at the foot of a dirty groove at the left side of the main face, at a
point to the right of which the roofs start to develop. Climb the dirty groove
until pleasant moves on good holds lead rightwards above the overhangs. A wide
cleft is then followed to the top.
6. Here 9m MVS 4b
Start on the first patch of level ground on the left side of Main Face, just
left of the prominent undercut rib of The Snout. Climb the shallow corner to a
large flat ledge. From the left hand end of the ledge, pull over the overhang on
good holds and traverse diagonally right to finish.
7. The Snout 5m MVS 4b
Good value. Start below the jutting prow. Climb the undercut aręte. ‘Thank God’
holds appear when most needed. Finish on the ledge above.
8. There 11m VS 5a **
The most impressive natural line on the crag and at its grade a hard won though
absorbing effort. Start 5 metres right of The Snout below the impressive
V-groove which cleaves the top overhangs. Climb the initial undercut wall via a
thin crack to gain a ledge. Pull under the roof and gain the upper groove.
Follow this to the top, moving out left to finish.
The base of the crag now forms a small bay or amphitheatre with a jutting roof
at 2 metres.
9. Everywhere 11m MVS 4b
Start at the foot of the aręte at the right hand end of the amphitheatre. Climb
the aręte by the shallow groove on its left to a good ledge. Move just over a
metre to the right and climb the wall above using a thin crack which soon peters
out.
Variation Finish VS 4c
From the ledge, surmount the bulge directly above the aręte and move left to
finish at some prominent knobs of rock.
10. Walk Like A Dog 11m S
Better than it looks with a steep finish. Start 2 metres right of the
amphitheatre at the foot of the obvious green runnel. Race up the runnel to a
ledge then struggle up the strenuous chimney above.
11. Crab Fair 16m D **
A fine combination of wall, traverse and slab; a beginners dream. Start just
right of the obvious green runnel. Climb the steep wall rightwards on memorable
holds to a good ledge. Traverse right easily and swarm onto a higher ledge. Just
around the corner on the right is a groove. Climb this until it can be quitted
for excellent jugs and a slab finish on the left.
12. Goose Fair 11m HS
A good steep climb, but rather awkward. Start at the foot of the aręte with the
arrow-shaped overhang at the right end of Main Face. Climb the aręte, passing
the overhang to gain the good ledge. Finish as for Crab Fair by climbing the
groove on the right until jugs on the left lead to a slab finish.
Variation Finish VS 4c
From the point of arrival on the ledge, climb directly up and over bulges to
gain the top slab of Crab Fair.
Right Hand Buttress
This is a smaller, scruffy and broken buttress at the right hand end of the
crag. Short scrambles, but nothing of interest.
This route isn't in the current
Northumberland Climbing Guide.
Breathe E2/3 6a
Follow There (VS,
5a) to the ledge below the groove between the two overhangs. Swing out onto
the right hand overhang and traverse right to a good sling placement, then reach
to a sloping hold and pull over the overhang. Climb 6m up a grassy slope to a
good belay on an iron post.
Nic Richardson (16), Matt Bonner (16), 8th August, 1997
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Northumberland Climbing Guide The definitive guide to climbing routes in Northumberland. Updates available from the NMC here.
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The Northumberland Bouldering Guide The Second Edition of the guide was written and produced by the people who developed the area. Updates available from the NMC here.
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For more information about this crag visit the NMC website.