Details of this crag was previously recorded in North of England Rock Climbs by Stewart Wilson. Volunteers are needed to check and update the information on the following pages for a definitive PDF guide to Swaledale.
O.S. Sheet 92
NGR 966120
Aspect
East and West Facing
Altitude
330m
Approach time 15 minutes
Situation and Character
The
gorge can be seen from the A66 a few miles west of Bowes and the Pennine Way
passes opposite the crag. The Troughs is a
limestone gorge and a SSSI so the routes were climbed on sight without cleaning
and they've had a bit of time to revert back to nature by now! Actually
they were fairly clean to start with.
History
The
first routes were recorded by Paul Carling and Roy Small. Karl Lunt added Alison
and Windfall in 1994.
Access and Approaches
The
crag is most easily approached from the south. Park in a lay by near a cattle
grid.
The Climbs
East Bank
The first climb was recorded to be 90m upstream of a dead
pine. Unfortunately the pine may not be there anymore!
1.
Maltandet
10m
HVS 5a
Start
to the left of the prominent corner of Small Beer at a crack below the
overhang. Climb the crack to the overhang, move left and tackle the wall above.
Paul
Carling and Roy Small
2.
Small Beer
10m
HS 4b
Climb
the prominent corner.
Paul
Carling and Roy Small
3.
Near Beer
10m
E1 5b
Climb
the centre of the wall right of Small Beer.
Paul
Carling and Roy Small
West Bank
4.
Alison
12m
E2 5c
**
Start by a large
block. Climb to the second break (small sapling) then traverse right to a
good ledge below the overhang. Pass this on the left climbing the wall
direct to a hanging tree belay. Abseil descent.
Karl
Lunt, Alison Sharman
29th August 1994
5.
Windfall
11m
HS 4b
*
The corner left
of Mother Night.
Move right near the top passing a small tree to belay above that climb. Karl
Lunt, Alison Sharman
29th August 1994
6.
Mother Night
10m
E1 5c
Climb the arête
left of Crystal Voyage.
Paul
Carling and Roy Small
7.
The Crystal Voyage
10m HVS 5b
Start at the
right end of the crag, (directly above the dead pine). Climb the wall to a
recess near the top.
Paul
Carling and Roy Small
Graded List
E2
Alison
5c
E1
Mother
Night 5c
Near
Beer 5b
Crystal
Voyage 5b
HVS
Maltandet
5a
HS
Small
Beer 4b
Windfall
4b
Gallery:
