O.S. Sheet 94
NGR 713959
Aspect
North East
Altitude
260m
Approach time
25 minutes
Situation and Character
Thorgill Crag lies on the south-west side of Rosedale. The
rocks are in an attractive setting and are about 300m long.
History
DW Stembridge, I Carr & MF
Wilson, J Hickman HL Stembridge and WR Lofthous were known to have climbed here
circa 1960. A route called
Rowan Tree Wall was climbed by WR
Lofthouse at this time.
Access and Approaches
The farmer below the crag is opposed to climbers
crossing his land and has put up notices to this effect. An alternative approach
- less likely to cause problems and
suggested to the landowner - would be
to take the road from Rosedale Abbey leading to Hutton le Hole up a steep bank.
Follow the old railway track along the moor top northwest for about a mile and
descend to the top of the crag. However at the time of writing no permission to
climb has been given.
It is believed that there may be nesting birds near
the crag so the area should be avoided during April to July.
The
Climbs
The first climb is on a prominent buttress, split by a
crack at the left-hand edge of the crag.
1. Last Crack 5m HVD
The last buttress on the left of the crag is split by
a crack. Climb the wall left of the crack to a ledge, an awkward move into the
crack leads to the top.
Variation
Severe
The crack can be gained and climbed from the right.
2.
Vee
Corner
4m
VD
Start around the corner 3m right of the last crack.
3.
Friends
10m
HVS 5b
On the buttress right of Vee Corner lies an obvious
open groove. Climb the open groove and go direct too the top of the crag.
4.
Square
Groove
5m
VD
About 25m right of Vee Corner by a square groove above
a large boulder. Climb the groove to a tree, step around to the left and gain
the top.
5.
Jungle Corner
5m
M
The
obvious overgrown corner 15m right of Square Groove.
6.
Thunder Rock
10m
VS 5a
Start
3m right of Jungle Corner in the middle of the wall. Ascend the wall by an
awkward move and a series of mantleshelves.
7.
Knife
8m
HVS 5b
Climbs
the sharp arete right of Thunder Rock.
8.
Sip
7m
HD
Start
3m right of Thunder Rock. Climb the wall to finish at an oak embedded in the
rock.
9.
Corn
Flake - Left hand
7m
S
The
obvious crackline 15m right of Sip.
Climb past a holly bush.
10.
Corn
Flake - Right hand
8m
VS 4c
Climb
the flake and crack above, 3m, right of the left-hand crack.
11.
Tough
Nut
8m
S
Starts
at the base of chimney 3m right of the above route. A hard start leads into the
chimney which is followed throughout.
12.
Rosedale
Buttress Ordinary
15m
D
Rosedale
Buttress is the large buttress which in profile resembles a nose. The ordinary
route starts about 1 2m left of the lowest rocks. Ascend direct with care.
MF
Wilson & DL Stemgridge
Circa 1960
13.
Rosedale
Buttress Direct
15m
HD
Starts
just right of the ordinary route. Climb diagonally right to the nose, follow the
crest of the nose to the top. Pleasant.
J
Hickman HL Stembridge
Circa 1960
14.
Banjaxed
13m
HVS 5b
Start
just right of the nose. Scramble up for about 2m to an obvious horizontal crack.
Hand traverse this for a few feet to a vertical crack. Ascend this to the arête
of Rosedale Buttress Direct.
15.
Rambler’s Ridge
15m
S
The
isolated rib of rock around the corner right of Rosedale Buttress. Climb the
groove in the corner for 20ft. to a stance, belay. Move right to gain the rib
which is climbed mainly on its right face to the top.
DW
Stembridge I Carr & MF Wilson
Circa 1960
16.
Roof Crack
HVS 5a
A prominent overhang to the right of the last route.
Full details in the
North East England Guide