Climbonline.co.uk

Map Reference:  NU069016

A steep and compact, quarried crag situated next to the River Coquet. It gives a number of sheltered routes. Some of the easier routes were climbed by Gordon Thompson in the nineteen seventies but the more difficult ones were the work of Simon Gee and Lewis Grundy during 1991. The crag is situated 1km east of Rothbury just to the south of the B6344. Park at the large lay-by and take the path toward Thrum Mill.  The crag may be reached by fording the river after approximately 100m, depending on the height of the river.

The routes are described from left to right.

1 Hooker    10m   E4 6a/b

Climb the left arête of the crag and climb round a small roof at the top.

2 Joint Effort   10m   E1 5c

Start right of Hooker, up a groove, then up the wall passing the left end of a larger roof to ledges.

3 The Final Cut   10m   E4 5c

Start right of Joint Effort and pull onto the wall. Move up right and climb the wall just left of a faint rib to pull round the right side of the larger roof and gain ledges.

The Final Cut at Thrum Mill was belayed by Roy Moseley (he couldn't second it...that was before he got good!!).

4 Lethal Addiction   10m   E3 5c

Start right of The Final Cut and make a horrible mantel to gain the left side of a groove. Up this pulling over roofs to finish.

5 Withdrawal Symptoms   10m   E2 5b

The wall right of Lethal Addiction passing a flake near the top.

6 Crack Attack   10m   Severe 4a           

The corner to the right of Withdrawal Symptoms. The wall just left of this can also be climbed at a similar standard.

FIRST ASCENTS:

For more information about this crag visit the NMC website.

Follow this link for Thrum Mill photodiagram.