TROW GILL NGR SD 754717
SITUATION AND ACCESS
Trow Gill is a well-known gorge that lies on the path from Clapham to Gaping Gill. The 30minute walk is best undertaken using the easy scenic footpath that leads by way of Ingleborough Cave.
Note of Caution: The geological structure of this crag can make some of the large flakes, particularly near the finishes of several routes on the right wing, rather unstable. Be wary and warn belayers not to stand directly below!
If you intend to do only bolt-routes then a dozen or so clips (and a couple of long slings for the traverses) are all that is required. For the trad-routes take a full rack up to F3.
THE CLIMBS
THE LEFT WING
The climbs are described from Left to Right
THE TREE WALLS
The first section of the left wing is scrappy and split by a ledge with trees on it. Kongen, a poor HVS, grovels up the lower wall somewhere and then goes straight up to the curving flake which leads to the top.
MUGGLE BUTTRESS
1. Forget the Arete 12m F6b
The first area of bulging rock seen on the left.
O4/05/2002 Glyn Edwards and Peter Kay
2. Muggling Folk 12m F6a+
Start just right of the bulges and gain the left side of a ledge at two metres.
18.10.02 Dave Musgrove, Mick Johnson
Antifant, (allegedly HS), climbs onto a ledge on the buttress then traverses into the vegetated corner on the right and follows it to a loose finish, some of which recently fell down. So, do you feel lucky punk?
THE MAIN WALL
To the right is the steep and impressive Main Wall. Grades given are for those of average stature. ‘Shorties’ can discuss the grades at length in the pub if you like.
The next climbs all start 3 metres right of the large grassy corner where a pillar of rock separates two scoops.
3. Market Forces 22m F7b **
Climb over the bulge and diagonally leftwards to a ledge at the foot of the shallow hanging groove. Climb up the tricky groove to good holds at the top. Traverse diagonally left again and use a tiny undercut to access the base of the next hanging groove. Enter the groove with more difficulty and climb it precariously to a good hold. Continue via tenuous pockets and slots to the lower-off.
29.8.03 Dave Musgrove
4. Open For Business 16m F6c+ **
A good climb though now somewhat superseded by its more difficult neighbours and extension. Follow Market Forces up its initial hanging groove then climb more easily and directly to a lower-off just above the top overlap.
Dave Musgrove, Nigel Baker, Paul Clarke
5. Frozen Assets 5m 7c **
A hideously thin finish to the last route starts at the belay and crimps up the smooth wall above the overlap to gain a good flake and easier climbing to a double-bolt belay.
30.03.03 Paul Clarke
6. Bush of Ghosts 16m 7a+ **
The original line up this part of the wall is now an abbreviated and bolted version of an old Berzinian E5 that went to the top of the crag using a point of aid. The once-scary lower and middle walls give good climbing to a double-bolt belay at the roof.
7.5.90 Martin Berzins, Fully equipped by Nigel Baker in 2003 with the permission of the first ascentionist.
7. Bush of Ghosts Extension 5m F7c **
A powerful finish to the last route passing the old aid point. Climb Bush of Ghosts to the belay and use good holds to inaugurate a long move and hard pull to gain better holds that lead to a single bolt belay.
Gaz Parry & Ian Vickers 19.8.03
8. Brush With A Goat 16m F7a **
Good climbing just right of Bush of Ghosts. Start below the first low bolt and trend up and right to an obvious overhanging flake/crack in the bulge above. Climb this then straight up via a vague groove above to finish at a pig’s-tail lower-off above the final roof.
1995 Paul Cornforth
9. The Wizard’s Wynd 47m F7b ***
A subtle and entertaining traverse of the Left Wing that follows the obvious but sporadic, thin ledge line until it fades, where a rising traverse is made to gain and follow the upper roofs. One of the longer sport-climbs on Yorkshire Limestone and low in the grade.
29.9.02 Paul Clarke
10. Road to Iraq and Ruin 24m 7a+ **
An eliminate, but the easiest way to climb to the top of this wall links sections of earlier routes and even has a new move! It gives very enjoyable climbing with the crux at the top.
Follow Wizard’s Wynd to join Kanga. Follow this over the middle bulge. Traverse right and finish over the last bulge as for Wetterstein.
22.03.03 Nigel Baker.
11. Kangaburger Wall 18m F7b **
Start just right of Brush with a Goat. A tricky start past a large glued undercut leads to the ledge beneath the flake/crack on BWAG, Cross the bulge just right of the big flake by rather blinkered, crux moves and reach good holds above. Rock up to gain the ledge line. Move up to the next bulge, which is taken rightwards where you join the puzzling finish of Trowgebirge Wall.
July 2002 Martin Berzins
12. Trowgebirge Wall 24m F7b+ ***
Based on the line of an old aid route but now starts on the left side of the Africa Pillar. Almost impossible to grade.
13. Wetterstein Wyrd 19m F7b **
A steep and direct finish to Trowgebirge. Follow Trowgebirge to the good rest on the ledge. Gain and cross the second roof slightly to the right of that route to reach holds beneath the third. Pull over this to gain the good flake on the right. Step left and climb the wall to a double-bolt belay.
Paul Clarke Oct 2002.
14. The Pursuit of Excellence 18m F7b ***
Climbs a line up the centre of the lower shattered pillar. A mix of glued and mechanical bolts; indicate the line.
1985 Mark Liptrot. The bolts and some of the holds disappeared soon afterwards.
The lower half was cleaned, re-equipped and re-climbed by Paul Cornforth in 1995 as part of the next route. The upper half was cleaned, re-equipped and re-climbed by Paul Clarke 6/10/02.
15. Hard-Core Ecstasy 18m F7b ***
A very direct line. The initial pillar and crux are common with Pursuit of Excellence with interest being maintained all the way to an exciting finale. The fine but easier wall leads to a pig’s-tail lower-off.
1995 Paul Cornforth
16. Diagon Alley 35m F7b **
A good, long combination with plenty of variety.
Climb Pursuit of Excellence, past its crux, to the good resting-place. With long slings on the bolt here, (and the next two) follow the traverse of Wizard’s Wynd to the belay on Petulant Frenzy.
22.9.02 Paul Clarke
17. Cosmik De-bris 18m F7c **
Start just right of the rock pillar at some ‘cosmik de-bris’ lying on the ground. Climb tentatively through some more debris to the roof. Hard moves to become established on a thin undercut lead to harder moves leaving it to gain the horizontal break above. Climb up to the final bulge that is surmounted with a touch of adventure! 6 bolts to a lower-off.
1995 Paul Cornforth
A hard-to-spot bolt on the lip of the big roof just to the right marks a long-abandoned project.
7 metres or so to the right and just past the other end of the large, fallen, cosmic block is the shared start of the next routes.
The shallow groove of Petulant Frenzy is the most obvious feature on the wall. The next two routes share the start of Petulant Frenzy up the first wall and over the first roof.
18. Where The Time Goes 21m F7b **
A route of halves; split by a very good recovery spot. Climb the wall rightwards to a good jug in a hole. Step up to the left and pull awkwardly over the initial roof using a glued hold to gain an undercut. At the second roof a repaired undercut allows a long move to be made leftwards to better holds. Traverse left to gain a very good incut and step up to a good resting place. Move up to thin overlap and a bolt and pass it on the left to gain the obvious massive undercuts in the next roof. Above the roof, a small hold and a long reach gains a better hold beneath a double bolt belay - but reach the better holds above before clipping!
The finish; Technical Wizardry, was climbed as a variation to Diagon Alley in July 2002 by Paul Clarke who added the start on 1.6.03.
19. Lonely Traveller 20m F7b+/c **
An excellent and varied climb. It has a sting in the tail.
Up to the good holds above the second roof as for Where The Time Goes but continue up the wall above to good sidepull/undercuts and swing left to very good holds. Follow these leftwards beneath the top overhang and pull up to a bolt on Wizard’s Wynd, just below the roof. Climb the headwall, passing a final bolt, on small holds to gain a good ledge from which to clip the double-bolt belay.
Paul Clarke 1.6.03.
The big flake above the belay of the next route looks attractive but is best avoided.
20. Petulant Frenzy 17m F7b+/c **
A very good route. Climb the wall rightwards to a good jug in a hole. Step up to the left and pull awkwardly over the initial roof using a glued hold to gain an undercut. Step to the right, then fine climbing up the vague groove leads to more fingery moves back left to a good rest. One final bit of effort leads to the pig’s tail lower-off below the hanging shield.
1995 Paul Cornforth
21. Max 17m F8a Grade subject to confirmation. **
The next obvious break in the roof and hard moves to gain the smooth wall above present the crag’s hardest challenge to date.
Ian Vickers 30.08.03
To the right is a deep cave. The roof of the cave and the wall above provides two steep and intense routes:
22. Jump Start 17m F8a **
The penultimate line of bolts on the left wall has a very hard start over a roof. The upper wall is not much easier.
23.6.96 Tony Mitchell (previously bolted and abandoned by Dave Birkett) Re-cleaned and belay added by Gaz Parry & Ian Vickers 14.8.03
23. Route 27 15m F7c+
The right hand end of the left-wall, with a technical and fingery start over the roof which eases considerably once the vertical upper wall is gained.
1995 Dave Birkett. Fully equipped by Ian Vickers 19.8.03
THE RIGHT WING
The rising traverse line that starts from The Narrows presents an obvious challenge. The first route to follow this line goes halfway. The second follows it to its logical conclusion. Both are very worthwhile and ‘atmospheric’ climbs.
24. The Chamber of Secrets 25m F7a+ **
A rising traverse of the upper-right wall.
29.9.02 Dave Musgrove, Paul Clarke
25. The Basilisk 35m F7c **
An excellent and exciting extension to The Chamber of Secrets, that follows it to the big side-pull. Swing along the traverse of Extremes of Opulence to the undercut holds below the rib then make difficult moves to gain the groove of ‘A Nice Polka Dot Demon’ and climb up to it’s top bolt. Reach out for a jug on the rib and pull up to finish at the belay of Blue Green Algae.
26. Free Radical 9m F6a
Start from below the short hanging undercut flake at the top left end of the wall and move right to the a foot-ledge. Climb up, over the overlap and then right to the belay above Radical Pyrotechnical. Short, but pleasant.
10.10.02 Dave Musgrove
27. Radical Pyrotechnical 8m F6b
The penultimate line of 3 bolts on the right wall at the top end of the gorge has its crux at the start and a new double lower-off. A variation avoiding the crux, Radical Solution (F6a+) climbs the upper bulge from the Chamber of Secrets traverse.
Original Aug 1995 Derek Hargreaves, Roy Healey, Allan Spurit, Gill Peel, Alan Firth
Variation 7.10.02 Dave Musgrove.
28. The Cheating Dog 16m F6c *
Avoid the initial crux of The Bitch Got It by the rising traverse start of Chamber of Secrets.
7.10.02 Dave Musgrove
29. The Bitch Got It 12m F7a+ *
The line of eco resin bolts on the right wall has a difficult start to a broken undercut and a steep but easier finish.
Aug 95 Gill Peel, Terry Holmes, Roy Healey
30. Eat The Onions Or The Bitch Gets It 14m F7b *
A steep line just left of Tower Of Baubles. A hard lower section through the left side of the bulges leads to a good ledge. The next bit is harder with the crux gaining and climbing the left-hand and larger of two hanging grooves in the top roof. New bolt belay.
1995 Mark Radtke, Dave Barton
31. Tower of Baubles 14m F7a+ **
Starting 9 metres left of Blue Green Algae below an obvious hanging flake.
32. Extreme Opulence 17m F7c ***
A very good, varied route that is more continually steep than other routes here. Pull up to the break at 3 metres. Hard moves up the wall gain better flakes and the large undercut holds in the bulge. Steep climbing through the bulges eventually gains a three-finger incut by the 5th bolt and a possible rest on a large sidepull to the left. Swing back between the overhangs to the right to gain a good, square undercut below a shallow groove in the arete. Hard moves up this groove lead to easier ground below an obvious triangular overhang. Step up onto the arete and move around to the left. Double-bolt belay.
A worthwhile variation is to join the finish of the next route at the large sidepull Opulence F7b **.
29.6.03 Paul Clarke. Variation 14.6.03 Paul Clarke.
33. A Nice Polka Dot Demon Gets The Royal Shaft 21m F7a+ **
Another fine route which just warrants its grade. From below the final groove on Blue Green Algae traverse left to gain another more open groove that is followed to a double-bolt belay.
1995 Paul Cornforth. Due to a failing battery he used a couple of wires in the final groove. The route was re-cleaned and two bolts added in June 2003 by Nigel Baker.
34. Blue Green Algae 20m F7b **
A really good climb, that is steep and strenuous. Climb Still Waters and then break out left on steep flaky rock with hard moves to enter the fine, hanging groove in the arete. Follow this to a lower-off.
1995 Paul Cornforth
35. Still Waters 20m E4 *
6a Starting 3 metres left of the previous route. Traditional protection required for the cracks. Quite good.
36. Ash Tree Groove 21m E3 *
5c The left-hand groove, to the ash tree.
37. Trowser Filler 18m F6b+ *
Fills the gap between the two grooves, always nearer to Black Groove until forced to join it for the final flake on the right of the roof.
8.8.03 Mick Johnson, Dick Tong
38. Black Groove 21m E2 *
5b Climb the right-hand groove which starts at the left-hand end of a ledge 1.5 metres off the ground.
39. The Flying Zimmer Frame Finish 15m 7b+ **
A steep and hard finish to Age Concern. Follow Age Concern to the bulge, step left and up to gain a shallow groove. Move right above the bulge to the double-bolt belay of the parent route.
April 2003 Paul Clarke. (Bolted by Dave Musgrove March 2003).
40. Age Concern 16m 7a+ *
A devious route, quite low in the grade. Start from a ledge at one metre, just to the left of the large block, climb leftwards into a shallow scoop. Steeply up the scoop to below the bulge from where a rightward traverse gains the hanging groove. Finish up this to a double-bolt belay
Tony Burnell as an E5 with 1 Peg and 2 Bolts Rebolted by Dave Musgrove March 2003.
41. Senior Moment 15m 6c *
Above the block a line of staples leads up a wall to the hanging groove of Age Concern. This provides an exit to the ledge and double-bolt belay.
30.03.03 Steve Coates & Nigel Baker.
42. Creaking Gait 14m F6c
The wall is climbed with difficulty to an undercut then dubious flakes to a large protruding spike. Follow the easy rib to a bolt belay.
18.8.03 Mick Johnson, Dick Tong
43. The Wastelands 18m E1
5b Start 2 metres left of Joss.
44. Joss 20m MVS
Joss is the shaking flake crack 6 metres left of the disco routes.
45. Just For Fun 30m E2
6a A rather (too) low level traverse described, rather vaguely, as starting from a grassy ramp and moving right along a low horizontal break. A step down is made to negotiate a bulge before reaching the corner of Clink. Belay here or continue traversing to the tree on Surface Tension and lower off.
April 1990 Alan Towse
46. Boogie Wonderland 24m E1
5b As for Disco Inferno. To the groove only this time, move left to a flake then easier to the top.
47. Rock and Roll 20m E3
6a Start as for Disco Inferno and then carry on up the large groove (Bolt. Rocks 2 and 7) to the poor lower off.
04/09/2002 Glyn Edwards and Angela Soper
48. Disco Inferno 24m E1 *
5b Climb boldly, trending left, to the foot of the largest of the grooves then move up into the shallow grooves to the right and so to the top.
49. Smart 22m E1
As for Sunday Best to the tree stump and move left into the grooves. Follow these (worryingly loose) to a not very good lower-off.
14/07/2002 Glyn Edwards and Peter Kay
50. Sunday Best 23m F6a+ **
Start at the next weakness 3 metres left of Alick. Move up following a line of bolts trending rightwards to a ledge and tree stump. Step up right on superb rock via a blunt rib and shallow groove to a double staple lower off.
2.8.03 Dave Musgrove (2 bolts in the lower wall had been placed the previous year by Glyn Edwards as part of Smart)
51. Alick 25m E3 **
5c A very good wall climb. Start 6 metres left of Clink below an obvious hole, 5 metres up.
52. Far Country 24m E5 **
6b Another good climb based around the rather vague arete just left of Clink, and stealing the original finish of that route. Climb the wall past a staple to a double bolt belay.
53. Clink 24m E3 **
5c An excellent climb if clean. (The more obvious direct finish is E4 6a)
54. Pimp with a Limp 22m F7a+ ***
This route was long neglected route has now been bolted to give very good trip up the left-hand and more obvious of a pair of slim grooves that grace the wall to the left. Climb into the shallow, rounded scoop and teeter up to the short flake that leads to the break. Step left to climb a vague groove before gaining an obvious, right facing, white flake. After a pull up to a flat hold and a step right, the difficult wall is climbed to the top overlap. Pull around this rightwards to a good crack and steep finish to jugs and a bolt belay on the left.
Paul Ingham 1984. Despite it’s obvious quality the route never gained popularity being bold and the crucial protection behind dubious flakes. With the agreement of the first ascentionist, the route was re-cleaned and bolted, by Paul Clarke Aug 2003. It became instantly popular!
55. Strumpet on a Trumpet 21m F7b+/c **
Interesting climbing but uses much of other routes. Follow Bandwagon to the long flat hold where a hard move gains a big hold to the left and a crimpy pull to gain a big sidepull and a rest. Easier but still steep moves lead up to undercuts at the overhang on Pimp. Pull directly through this to a double-bolt belay.
Paul Clarke 26/7/03
56. Bandwagon 21m F7b+ **
A fine route, that requires strong fingers. It has recently had some old bolts replaced and a better belay added. Start just left of Freak Out and pull over a slight bulge to climb the steady wall to a break. Pull up to layaway and crimp over a bulge to gain a long but narrow flat hold then a very difficult move leads up the smooth wall and to a thin vertical flake. Easier moves follow and lead to more layaways before a steep, final groove. Bolt belay.
24.6.95 Tony Burnell
57. Bootleg Bandits 21m F7a **
A route that steals bits of others but is a good addition and at a useful standard. Climb Bandwagon to clip its 4th bolt and step back down. Move right to the flake of Freak Out. Layback up this to pull leftwards into a crack that is surprisingly awkward to stand into and that is left with difficulty to gain a better hold below the last bolt. Steep moves and a span out left gives access to the overlap but the finish requires a pull to the right. Double-bolt belay.
15.07.03 Nigel Baker, Dave Musgrove (both led).
58. Freak Out 21m E2 **
5c The original line on this wall and still very worthwhile.
59. Surface Tension 26m E4
6a Climb line of holds and flakes on the tricky wall just left of the shallow caves.
60. Bandicoot 21m F7a *
The line of staples that start up the left-hand rib of the left-hand cave, pulling over to good pockets and holds that lead to the big ledge. Climb steep rock behind the tree to an easing in the angle and a rest. The shallow corner above and to the left leads to a lower-off.
Steve Coates 27/7/03
61. Whores with Quick Draws 26m F6c+ ***
A long and really good diagonal that takes in some superb climbing and situations at a reasonable standard. Little new climbing but well worth doing. Take the left side of the central pillar and continue to the tree. Move up to the flake of Freak Out and follow Bootleg Bandits to its crack. Quit this to swing left onto Bandwagon and then step down left to the rest on Strumpet. Now follow a line of good holds across Pimp to the corner of Clink and a good rest. The crisp wall above (As for Far Country or Clink Direct) leads to the belay.
18.8.03 Steve Coates and Paul Clarke. The finish was climbed on 14.5.88 as Clink Direct by Derek Hargreaves.
62. Easy Ride-err! 35m F6b *
A left to right rising traverse starting as for Wandering Star and finishing at the belay of Clapham in Irons taking in the crux of Silver Fox en-route.
14.9.03 Nigel Baker, Dave Campbell
63. Wandering Star 24m F6b *
Climb the right side of the short pillar between the caves and surmount the overlap (crux). Tiptoe delicately across to the right and pull onto the end of the big ledge. Climb straight up then slightly to the left on good holds until below the bulge. Move round this and step right, to finish on good holds and a lower-off. Take care with the large flake to the left of the finish, though huge it is precariously perched.
Dave Musgrove, Nigel Baker (both led).
64. Off the Wagon 20m F6a+
Start to the right of the shallow cave and climb carefully up the lower wall to better rock and a horizontal break. Pull over with difficulty and take the nice wall above direct and continue up the slab to the roof, traverse left to a groove and so to the top.
13/11/2001 Glyn Edwards and Dave Briggs as an E2. (bolted 2003 by Mick Johnson in mistake)
65. The Silver Fox 21m F6b *
Step left from the pile of debris and climb the shattered wall to a weakness in the overlap above. Pull through this with difficulty and then continue more easily to a second overlap. The apparently smooth wall above contains a crucial hidden slot. Find this and you’re up to big holds and the lower-off.
7.9.03 Mick Johnson
66. The Great Big Onion 21m F6a *
Start from a pile of debris which marks the highest point on the path below this wall. Climb onto a good ledge and move up rightwards past the first bolt before making directly for the shallow corner in the bulges above. Pull through on good holds and continue to below the huge hanging flake. Climb the awkward crack to a good hand ledge. Swing left and up to the lower-off which is shared by the next route.
8.9.03 Dave Musgrove, Mick Johnson
67. Blackout in the Big Apple 21m F6a
Starting just left of Bad Day on Black Rock this route climbs direct to an overlap just right of a shallow hanging corner. Pull over and continue straight up to a weakness on the right side of the a large hanging flake. Climb this to the belay. Reasonably easy climbing though the rock needs a little care.
14.8.03 Mick Johnson
68. Bad Day on Black Rock 22m F6b+ **
The second line of 7 bolts on the right wall, about 20 metres right of Freak Out. Climb the friable lower wall with care to a difficult sequence on better rock above the horizontal break. Trend right then back left to a steep finish on the headwall and a lower-off out of sight over the top.
14.8.01 Nigel Baker, Steve Coates, Paul Clarke
69. Clapham in Irons 20m F6a+ *
The first line, of 6 bolts, up the right wall. Climb the shattered bulge with care and then over the more substantial overlaps above on better rock and directly up a fine steep wall to a ledge. The final section to the lower off is on perfect rock.
1.9.01 Dave Musgrove, Nigel Baker, Brian Rossiter
Eat the Onions or the Bitch gets It, Mark Radkte on the first ascent.