OS Sheet 93 NZ598060
Altitude 280m
Aspect West
Approach 15 minutes
This nab is situated about 1½ miles east of lngleby Greenhow on Battersby Moor, just behind Bank Foot Farm. The climbs are not on the Nab proper but about 20m to the south of it. They are about 15 minutes walk from Bank Foot Farm.
The buttresses are plainly visible from the gate leading onto the old Farndale road. A faint track leads steeply to the first climb on the left.
The Climbs
The climbs
are described from left to right.
1. Battersby
Buttress 10m S
The
first prominent buttress from the left of the rocks. Start at the foot of the
wall, which is ascended on small holds to a narrow ledge. Continue up the slabs
above to a large ledge and belays. Easy ledges above give access to the Moor.
Arthur Barker. Early 1930s.
2.
Corner Direct 10m HS 4b
Start
at the arête right of Battersby Buttress. Ascend the arête direct to a ledge.
Finish as for Oblique Crack or Battersby Buttress.
Tony Marr, Ken Jackson. May 1970
3. Batter Your Face 10m HVS 5a
The
wall and top groove to the right of Corner Direct. Looks harder than that!
Early 1980s.
4. Oblique Crack 10m S
Starts
round the corner to the right of Battersby Buttress. Climb the twin cracks by
either jamming or laybacking to a stance. Continue up the final difficult corner
crack.
Arthur Barker. Early 1930s
5. Chicken Run 10m VS 4c
Start
5m right of Oblique Crack. Climb the small corner to the overhang, step right,
then climb to a ledge, belay.
Mike Stellings, Tony Marr. July 1963.
The
steep slab between Chicken Run and Diffman’s Dilemma.
Early
1980s.
7. Diffman’s Dilemma 10m HS 4b
Climb
the obvious arête a few feet right of Chicken Run.
Tony
Marr, Mike Stellings. July 1963.
8. Parallel Cracks Left-hand 10m VS 4c
A
few feet right of Diffman’s Dilemma and around the corner are two obvious
crack lines ending at a ledge. Climb the left hand line, moving left above the
ledge.
FA.
Originally climbed on aid in 1961 by Peter Waterman, graded A1.
FFA. Climbed free in the early 1970s by several locals [including me], not sure
who was first.
9.
Parallel Cracks Right-hand 10m HVS 5b
A
fine test of finger locking, following the right-hand crack line.
FA.
Originally climbed on aid in 1961 by Peter Waterman, graded A1.
FFA. Climbed free in the early 1970s by several locals [including me], not sure
who was first.
10.
Extra 10m VS 4c
Climb the wall somewhere right of Parallel Crack Right Hand.
Early
1980s.
Full details in the
North East England Guide
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