LONGSTONE QUARRY
O.S. Landranger Sheet 86
Map Reference: NY775662
Aspect North West
Altitude 230m
Approach time 3 minutes
Situation and Character
Longstone
Quarry overlooks the Roman Fort at Vindolanda. It may be a useful summer
afternoon venue for local climbers as it enjoys the evening sun. A sandstone
quarry about 80 metres long and up to 13 metres high. The rock is slightly
softer than normal Fell Sandstone. The climbing is mainly on steep walls with
sparse protection in many cases. Anchors at the top are non-existent. Pegs
on the firm platform of rock at the top of the quarry may be the answer as
stakes would need to be drilled.
History
The quarry has been used in the past for pegging and scars
and rotten stubs are visible, particularly along horizontal breaks. There was
however no evidence of free climbing. The routes recorded are the work of P.
Whillance and D. Armstrong who soloed them after pre-cleaning by abseil. This
was in the early part of 1982. Visits to the crag in 1991 by Pete Botterill
resulted in some worthwhile additions notably the Concave Wall routes, Teflon
Effect, False Start, Chariot Of Fire and Mosaic.
Access and Approaches
From the B6318 Military Road, Vindolanda is well sign posted about half a mile east of Twice Brewed. Turn right for Bardon Mill and follow the road below a ridge, the Longstone being visible on the left. Just beyond a sharp, left-hand bend is a green, wooden seat on the left side of the road and a parking place for a couple of cars on the opposite side of the road. From the car, follow the road to a metal gate just before a house. A pleasant path leads via a slanting route across pastures and through a wall to the quarry, which is out of sight.
The Climbs
The quarry consists of four main sections from left to right: Concave Wall, Short Wall, Main Wall Left, and Main Wall Right. Between Main Wall Left and Main Wall Right is an area, which can provide a descent route however descents at either end of the quarry are safer. There are 26 recorded routes up to E3 6b.
Concave Wall
The impressive wall at the extreme left-hand end of the quarry. It is about 9 metres high and is split by a long, thin crack. Concave Wall ends at two, short parallel cracks, about 1 metre apart.
1. Pullover 6m S
Start at the extreme left end of the wall below a pronounced right-slanting overlap. Climb up to the overlap and reach over to holds. Hand traverse right until standing on the chipped hold of jumper.
2. Jumper 6m E1 5b
Start just right of the overlap below a thin crack. Reach the thin crack with the aid of a triangular hold on the left and reach an ancient chipped hold. A long move gains the top.
3. Sweater 8m E2 5c
Climb the thin central crack direct with the crux at the top.
4. Flanker 9m HVS 5a
A pleasant, open climb of contrasts. Start 1 metre right of the thin, central crack. Climb to a ledge at 2 metres. Step right and climb the wall via a blunt-edged flake.
5. Parallel Crack 1
6. Parallel Crack 2
Short Wall
This extends from the parallel cracks for about 10 metres to a grassy, pedestal ledge just right of a prominent undercut at 1 metre. The climbs are short, about 5-6 metres and the rock here tends to be dirty, with awkward finishes.
Main Wall Left
A fine, attractive face about 10 metres high, which extends from the pedestal rightwards. A band of overhangs guards the upper left-hand end and a prominent, green groove leads up to these. To the right, the wall is more featureless but the central portion has an overlap near the top. The right-hand end of the wall ‘Problem Wall’ is shorter and climbs on this part terminate on a big heather ledge. The section ends at the shelved slab, which can be used as a descent route.
7. The Teflon Effect 10m VS 5a
Start to the left of the green groove at a blunt rib with EGHI inscribed in the rock. Climb straight up to good holds under the roof. Pull over and reach the top.
Pete Botterill 1991
8. Tusk 10m E1 5b
Start just right of the green groove at a short, vertical crack. Climb the wall to the horizontal break and continue up the obvious line of flakes to the top.
9. False Start 10m E2 6a
Start just right of Tusk. Unusual climbing leads to a poor flake and then a good hold under the overlap. Move left and finish up Tusk.
Pete Botterill 1991
10. Vindolanda 10m HVS 5a
Start 8 metres right of the previous climb, below a pointed, flake ledge at full reach. Climb the wall to a good ledge. Step right and climb steeply to a short groove up which the climb finishes.
11. Gaul 9m HVS 5a
Start 2 metres right of Vindolanda at a left-slanting ledge. Climb the steep wall to the horizontal break. Follow the vague, rightward slanting flake to the top.
12. ‘Cos Its There! 9m VS 4b
Start 2 metres right of Gaul at a blunt aręte. Climb up and rightwards over a large block to a big, heather ledge. Climb easily to the top.
13. Problem Wall Left 5m 5c
Start just right of the previous route. Climb the steep wall to a small overlap. Pull up and leftwards to reach the large block on ‘Cos Its There!
14. Problem Wall Centre 5m 5c
Climb the centre of Problem Wall to a horizontal break. Make a long reach to holds above and move onto the big ledge.
15. Problem Wall Right 5m 6a
Start at the right-hand side. The break is reached via hard moves on sloping holds. Finish easily on ledges.
16. Main Wall Left Girdle 5c ó
The whole of the Main Wall Left can be traversed via the obvious horizontal break.
Main Wall Right
The most impressive face in the quarry. It starts just right of the easy, stepped slab and presents a uniformly steep face of about 14 metres high. The climbing is on steep walls and is bold, in addition the high quality of the routes is somewhat marred by the presence of lichen and grass on ledges as a result of under use. The situation should soon change as the quarry gains in popularity.
17. Curving Crack 12m S
Start below the prominent crack at the left end of the face. Climb the crack direct.
18. All Along The Watchtower 14m E1 5a
Start as for Curving Crack. Climb the crack for a metre until it is possible to move rightwards up the wall to a horizontal break. Step right and follow the right-hand side of the wall to the top.
19. Mosaic 12m E3 6b
Start to the right of Curving Crack at a small overlap in the steep wall, which has a lichenous streak running its full height. Climb straight up to the right-hand end of the easy Hand traverse and make hard moves up and right to a hold beneath a ledge, which marks the end of the difficulties. Step left and climb straight up to twin finishing cracks and nut/Friend belays just below the top.
Pete Botterill 1991
20. Wild Thing 12m E1 5c
Ten metres right of the left end of the wall is a stepped corner. Start 3 metres left of this from the top of a grassy mound. Climb up and right to an obvious pocket, and then move diagonally leftwards to a ledge in the middle of the wall. Climb more easily up rightwards to the top.
21. Giant’s Steps 13m HVS 5a
Climb the obvious, stepped corner to a small overhang. Continue up the slabby wall above.
22. Steppin’ Out 14m HVS 5b
Start as for Giant’s Steps below the stepped corner. Climb the stepped corner onto the first ledge. Climb the wall to a thin, horizontal crack and move right and up to a sandy ledge. Climb the short wall above to the top.
23. Bananarama 12m E1 5c
Start 8m right of Giant’s Steps at a tapering, right-facing groove. Climb the groove and pull up to a good ledge in a scoop. Move up the grassy break and up the short wall above to the top.
24. Chariot Of Fire 12m E2 5c
Start below the steep rib to the right of the groove of Bananarama. Climb the rib direct. No protection, poor landing.
25. Did Those Feet 12m HVS 5b
Start below the thin, flake crack line 5 metres right of Bananarama. Climb up over a grass ledge and follow a faint, green groove to an overhang. Climb the flake crack to a large, heather ledge and continue in the same line up a thin, flake crack in the wall.
26. Starkey’s Crack 11m HVS 5a
Start 4 metres left of the grassy corner, which bounds the Main Wall Right. Climb the short groove, which leads to the steep crack. Climb the crack direct.
|
|
Northumberland Climbing Guide The definitive guide to climbing routes in Northumberland. Updates available from the NMC here.
|
|
|
The Northumberland Bouldering Guide The Second Edition of the guide was written and produced by the people who developed the area. Updates available from the NMC here.
|
For more information about this crag visit the NMC website.