The Wainstones from the Cleveland Way.
OS Sheet 93 NZ559036
Aspect North West and South West Facing
Altitude 380m
Approach Time 30 minutes.
Situation and Character
These rocks, known locally as “The Stones”, are prominent on the skyline at the western end of Hasty Bank overlooking the village of Great Broughton. The rock is sound, weathered sandstone with intrusions of iron. Due to its altitude and exposed position the crag can be unpleasantly cold but climbing can be enjoyed all year round, as one of its many faces is often sheltered and dry when the others are cold and damp.
History
The name Wainstones [pronounced locally "Wainsteeans"] conveys the impression of a "Wain" or "Wagon" which at one time it may have resembled. However legend has it that a Danish Chieftain was slain there; if this is so then it is more likely that the name was derived from the Saxon verb Wanian meaning to lament or grieve. Indeed, one inscription that can still be seen is of great antiquity, others simply record the visits of modern barbarians! The first climber to record his visits to the Wainstones was E.E. Roberts who first climbed here in 1906. Robert's is reported to have written, "odd visits don't count, some idle shepherd boy may have climbed here before me". The brothers C.E. and D. Burrow along with Canon Newton recorded visits in 1912, they were joined about this time by E and G. Creighton the latter being sufficiently keen to cycle the 80 mile round trip from York to enjoy the climbing. In fact, the visits of E. Creighton continued into the period of the First World War when, armed with a revolver, he patrolled the Wainstones in hours of darkness, “Looking for Zeppelins”. From 1928 Arthur Barker and his brother explored the Wainstones along with a select band of Teesside climbers known as “The Bergers". Barker was instrumental in establishing most of the standard routes including Bench Mark Crack, Ling Buttress, Sheep Walk Slab, The Bulge and the classic Wall and Ledge. C.S and T.H. Tilly recorded visits in 1931 and 1932. Jack Devenport and Alan Parker came on the scene in 1939 to contribute Groove and Crack, Wall and Ledge Variant and other minor routes. After the war in late 1945 Phillip Horne and Maurice Wilson busied themselves by straightening out many existing routes and added alternative finishes. A large rock fall swept away three of the older climbs but these were quickly replaced with Solomon’s Porch and Humpty Dumpty. During a meet by the York M.C. in 1951 Tony Evenett lead the elusive Little Bo Peep. Cliff Fielding’s ascent of the superb Sphinx Nose Traverse in 1954 was followed by B. Mankin's bold ascent of Steeple Face the following year. During 1959 Eric Penman contributed the difficult Bulge Super Direct. Early in 1960 Terry Sullivan added the impressive Sesame and Ali Baba, although a little aid was used on the latter. At the same time John Cheesmond solved the direct start to West Sphinx via the "Peapod", a trying problem even today. During 1965 Tony Marr caused renewed interest in the crag when he dispensed with the aid on Ali Baba, thus raising standards on the crag to a new high. Also in the same year the superb Concave Wall was climbed by Stan Shout, while fellow Hartlepool lad Stewart Wilson set about girdling Garfit Buttress with Steve Gretton and came up with the delectable Turkish Delight. The crag slumbered again for over a decade, awaiting the next generation eager to test their skills against its dwindling defences.1978 saw the arrival of a new breed of climber; they used climbing walls for training and were able to use well-practised technical skills and strength to great effect. Subsequently, Ian Dunn added the testing Peel Out to Ling Buttress in fine style. 1979 saw The Sphinx violated; first by Paul Ingham, Ken Jackson and Tony Marr who climbed the West Face Direct and a few months later by Paul Ingham accompanied this time by Ian Dunn to give the brutal Terrorist. The early 1980's were very productive with Dave Paul finding a solution to the Needle West Face, and Dave Wilson climbed "Wilson's Groove", a super, super direct on The Bulge. Kelvin Neal ascended Lemming Slab with a slight detour, only to see Paul Ingham repeat it a few days later, and straighten it into its present form. Paul Ingham's final contribution is still one of the region’s hardest problems, Psycho Syndicate, a truly modern test piece, which sees few repeats even today. Not to miss out on the action, Tony Marr climbed the problematic Direct Start to Virgin Wall. During the spring of 1986 Steve Brown climbed the nose of The Sphinx to add his very bold and difficult contribution Black Knight. A short time later Tony Marr wrung Cissam from Garfit Buttress closing another chapter in the crags development. The next recorded activity was in 1992 when Martin Parker had a Walk on the Wild Side, a bold climb on the east face of the Sphinx. Finally Tony Marr and Mike Tooke added the excellent Summit Crisis in 1997 just to prove that there were still unclimbed lines left. In more recent times, due to the lack of an up to date guidebook and errors in the last edition, there were several claims of "new routes" which unfortunately had all been climbed before. However, the crag is far from worked out and new climbs await those with talent and an eye for a line.
Access and Approaches
The best approach is from the car park near the summit of Clay Bank, 2 miles south of Great Broughton on the B1257 Stokesley to Helmsley road. Leave the road at this point and follow the forestry track south, up the flank of Hasty Bank. The track soon turns back north and eventually west as it levels out at the tree line. Pass under the impressive rocks of Raven's Scar and continue for a further 5 minutes to where the pinnacles of the Wainstones will be seen on the skyline. Alternatively follow the paved path (Cleveland Way) from Clay Bank. This route leads over the top of the moor just above the edge of Raven's Scar and arrives at the top of the crag close to the famous Wainstones Needle.
Broughton Face
The most prominent landmark is the Wainstones Needle as it acts as a fulcrum about which the two escarpments hinge. Facing North West is Broughton Face and facing South West is Bilsdale Face.
Broughton Buttress
The first climb starts at the extreme northeast end of the buttress.
1. Broughton Ridge 6m VD
From the left gain a polished sloping foothold on the ridge, which is climbed direct. The ridge can also be started direct, up the smooth arête at 5a.
Pre 1956
2. Bench Mark Crack 7m HS 4b *
Ascend the awkward corner crack easily identified by the bench mark carved at its base.
Arthur Barker circa 1928
3. Bench Mark Wall 7m E1 6a
Climb the shallow groove immediately right of the corner without recourse to the crack. Unfortunately this wall is often damp and greasy.
Paul Ingham (solo) 1982
A modern test piece lies in the centre of the steep wall just to the right. This is...
4. Psycho Syndicate 8m E4 6b *
Climb the wall via the peg scars. One of the region’s most testing problems.
Paul Ingham (solo) April 1984. Ingham’s final contribution before leaving the area.
5. Tiny's Arête Direct 8m HVS 5b *
Starts from the left side then tackles the arête direct. A splendid eliminate.
Chris Shorter (solo) 1977
6. Tiny's Dilemma 8m HVS 5a
Climb straight up the face just right of the arête avoiding any temptation to use the corner/crack on the right. Good climbing, unfortunately becoming much harder due to polished holds.
Pre 1956. Originally graded severe before the passage of many feet!
7. Tiny’s Dilemma Variation 8m VD
This ancient and popular variation has never before been officially recorded. Climb the corner/crack to the ledge; step left to finish up the normal route.
Pre 1960
8. Low level traverse 6m 6a *
Start at Broughton Ridge and finish at Tiny's Dilemma. Now reverse it. Any advance on twelve continuous circuits?
Tony Marr 1983
9. Rookery Nook 8m D
Climb the short chimney to the ledge, move left and finish up the top section of Tiny's Dilemma.
Pre 1956
10. Morning Wall 6m MS 4a *
Ascend the centre of the delicate slab between Tiny's Dilemma and Rookery Nook. Finish up the vee crack above.
Pre 1956
10a. Black Sheep 8m
VD
Start 2m right of Milky Way. Gain
the sloping shelf then climb the outside of the curving arête to the large
ledge. (Belay possible). Finish up the thin vertical crack or, the right edge of
the final wall. Enjoyable climbing.
FA. Mike Tooke, Frank Fitzgerald, Tony Marr. 3rd. August 2008.
11. Milky Way 7m D
Climb the chimney of Rookery Nook then cross the wall on the right to escape up the slanting cracks.
Pre 1956
12. Evening Wall 8m VD
Starts just right of the last climb from the sloping shelf. Climb the centre of the wall on small holds to the large ledge. Finish up the corner crack.
1960s.
Sheep Walk
This is the broad gully separating Broughton Buttress from the main rocks. The next climbs start at the top end of the gully.
13. Green Wall 4m HS
Ascend the steep wall up a thin vertical crack. Variations can be climbed just to the left [5a] and to the right [S].
Bill Dell, Dave Staton 1958.
14. Sheep Walk Slab 7m M *
A diagonal traverse starting from the left to finish up a short chimney.
Arthur Barker circa 1928
15. Variation Start 5m D
Climb straight up the line of the final chimney.
Pre 1956.
16. Flake, Wall and Crack 6m HS 4b
Start from the flake embedded in the path. Gain the ledge and follow the cracks to finish.
Pre 1956.
17. Solomon’s Porch 6m S
Around the corner from the last climb is a crack. Climb it and the buttress left of the top crack. A direct start can be made up the bottom arête at the same grade.
Phillip Horne, Maurice Wilson 1945.
18. Lurch 6m VS 4b
Climbs the arête just right of Solomon’s Porch mainly on its right side with a slightly dynamic move.
Tony Marr 1968.
19. Humpty Dumpty 5m D
The short slab followed by a bulging crack right of Lurch.
Phillip Horne, Maurice Wilson 1945.
20. Novitiate 5m Easy
Climb the polished rocks just right of Humpty Dumpty.
Pre 1956.
The Steeple
The cleft tower stands between the main rocks and the Needle.
21. Steeple Groove 8m D
The obvious corner crack 3m right of Novitiate, finish on the summit of the Steeple.
Pre 1956
22. Steeple Face 9m HVS 5b *
Start from the lowest point and climb the centre of the steep tower with increasing difficulty. Bold.
B. Mankin (solo) 1955. The route was considered one of the crag’s most exacting climbs in the 1950s.
23. Steeple Chimney 8m VD *
The obvious cleft splitting the Steeple can be climbed elegantly up its outside edge or by a more traditional thrutch inside. Either way the climb is well worth the effort.
Pre 1956
24. Centre Fold 8m HVS 5c
Climb the centre of the black wall just right of the chimney to a ledge on the arête. Finish up the arête.
Tony Marr (solo) 1979.
25. Chop Yat Ridge 8m VD
Start lower than the last climb at the base of the ridge on the Bilsdale side of the Steeple. Ascend the ridge to a horizontal break. Move right then up to the summit block.
Pre 1956.
26. Steeple Gap 7m M
Start in the corner to the right of Chop Yat Ridge. Ascend the corner to finish on top of the Steeple.
Maurice Wilson 1957.
Needle Gap
The name given to the rocky depression separating the Steeple from the Needle.
Wainstones Needle
27. Main Route 6m M *
Start on the north side of Needle Gap. Ascend a slab to the base of the top block, step left and climb the well-scratched arête to the top. Beware, the top block wobbles !
FFA Arthur Barker 1928.
Other variations are possible at a similar standard - with the exception of the following two routes.
28. North Route 7m HVS 5b
Climb the flake and make a long reach to pass the awkward bulge, continue direct to the summit.
Brian Evans (solo) 1959.
29. West Face Direct 8m E4 6b *
Impressive climbing up the shallow groove in the centre of the wall. Not a climb to fall off!
Dave Paul (solo) 1980. A very bold and technical climb by Paul, done before multiple crash mat protection was available.
30. West Face Low Level Traverse 6m 5c
A short problem crossing the base of the Needle byway of a horizontal crack. Climb from left to right, finishing up the arête adds interest. Can also be climbed in reverse.
Paul Ingham 1978
31. The Girdle 10m VD
Start for Main Route to the top of the block, and then traverse around the block using a crack about two metres from the summit. Stop after two revolutions and unwind!
Pre 1956
Bilsdale Face
Summit Buttress
32. Bird Lime 7m E3 5c *
Start from the embedded block. Pull onto the wall and boldly climb the friable flakes to a good hold. Continue directly to the top.
1965. Miles Mosely [solo]. Mosely had recently moved from Teesside to work in Harrogate allowing him easy access to the local gritstone outcrops. Asked about his impressive ascent, Mosely said that although he’d failed on the route previously, he owed this success to “new found strength and technique from climbing VS at Almscliff”; enough said!
33. Bird Lime - Variation Start 8m E3 5c **
Start in the corner to the left of
the normal route. Pull around the bulge with difficulty to gain the fragile
layback flakes. Finish as the normal route.
Tony Marr 27th August
2000 (solo). The normal route starts from a large boulder, which is slowly
slipping down the hill. This start may prove useful in years to come!
34. Little Bo-Peep 11m VS 4b **
Right of Bird Lime, around the corner is a large block in the gully. Climb the front of the block to the ledge. Hand traverse left in a fine position to the arête. Pull into a shallow groove to finish. A little climb with a big feel to it.
Tony Evenett 1951. Climbed during a visit by the York MC.
35. Miss Muffet 8m VS 4c *
Follow Little Bo-Peep until the start of the hand traverse, then continue instead up a steep groove direct to the summit. Short but strenuous.
Late 1950’s. This route masqueraded as severe for many years.
36. On Form 12m E1 5b
A traverse of Summit Buttress. Start as for Little Bo-Peep and follow the horizontal fault around the corner to escape up the last few metres of Bird Lime.
Ian Dunn, Nick Dixon 1982
37. Summit Crisis 12m E2 5c *
This is a left to right traverse of Summit Buttress. Start in the corner to the left of Bird Lime. Climb the corner for two metres until it is possible to move right and finger traverse the thin “seam” to join Bird Lime. Continue rightwards to the arête (On Form in reverse). The climb may be finished here but it’s more interesting to step down and reverse Little Bo-Peep.
Tony Marr, Mike Tooke 15th June 1997
38. Cantilever 6m D
Climb the rocks in the gully between the two buttresses until beneath the large jammed chock stone. Surmount the chock stone direct.
Pre 1956.
Ling Buttress
This buttress lies on the right of the gully.
39. Peel Out 8m E4 6b
Climbs the overhanging right wall of the gully. Follow the line of shallow flakes to the ledge. Finish up the ridge.
Ian Dunn, Steve Brown. Spring 1978. Named after several airborne excursions!
39a. Ling Arête HVS 5a
Climb the right arête of Peel Out on it's left side up a series of small steps. Quite awkward and can only be protected by a small tri-cam and a very small brass nut.
Franco Cookson, Dave Warburton 03 September 2007
40. Ling Buttress 10m HS 4b **
Climb the front left edge of the buttress into a triangular niche then gain the arête on the left by an awkward step. Continue to finish up the ridge. A direct variant without the step left from the niche is slightly harder than the normal route and almost as good. Superb climbing with good protection.
Arthur Barker circa 1928.
41. Groove and Crack 10m HVD *
Start in a corner to the right of the last climb. Climb the corner to a ledge on the right then follow the ramp to finish up a short vertical crack with an awkward exit.
Jack Devenport, Alan Parker 1939.
42. Ling Corner 10m S
Climb Groove and Crack to the foot of the ramp. At this point climb the slab on the right to finish up the right edge of the wall. A harder finish can be climbed up the wall to the left through a notch (4b).
Pre 1956
43. Falcon Rib 11m D
Start at the foot of a prominent rib at the entrance to a cave 3 metres right of Ling Corner. Climb the rib to a ledge, scramble up and left to finish up the short chimney in the edge of Ling Buttress. A slightly harder start can be made up the wall on the left side of the rib.
Pre 1956
Sphinx Rock
44. West Sphinx Climb 11m E2 5b *
Start beneath the nose at the lowest point. A staircase leads left around the overhang to where a difficult step up brings a thin horizontal crack within reach. Follow the crack delicately leftwards to finish more easily up the summit arête.
Harry Hall, J. Biggins, Bill Dell 1959. An incredibly bold ascent for its time with the climbing being totally unprotected until the introduction of small wire chocks in the 1970s
45. West Sphinx Direct 10m E3 5b **
Follow West Sphinx Climb until the horizontal crack is reached. Step up right to gain “The Eye” then move right onto a slab and follow it to the top. Sustained climbing with superb positions.
Paul Ingham, Ken Jackson, Tony Marr 6th May1979.
46. Direct Start 10m E2 5c *
The wall to the left of the normal start contains an obvious "Pea Pod". Gain the pod then pull over the bulge to join the two previous climbs at the horizontal crack. The choice of finishes is yours. A testing problem, especially for the short!
John Cheesmond (solo)1960.
Direct Start –Variation E3 6a
Harder and more sustained than the normal route. Begin below and right of the normal start, at the foot of the arête. Climb the edge of the arête on its overhanging side until it is possible to finger traverse left to gain the “Pea Pod”; finish as for the Direct.
Paul Ingham (solo)1983.
47. Black Knight 10m E5 6c
Climb straight up to and over the Sphinx Nose via the old peg scarred crack. Serious and technical climbing. (The peg used for protection under the nose is no longer in-situ).
1960s Climbed as an artificial route called Sphinx Nose Direct.
FFA Steve Brown 1986. Second did not follow.
48. Terrorist 10m E4 5c *
Gain the short hanging corner immediately right of the nose, step right and climb the wall direct on small holds to the summit. A serious undertaking.
1960’s. Climbed as an artificial route called Sphinx Nose.
FFA Paul Ingham, Ian Dunn September 1979. The team placed a peg for protection in the corner but this was subsequently considered unnecessary and removed.
49. Walk on the Wild Side 10m E3 5c
Immediately right of Terrorist is a short groove capped by a roof. Climb over the roof on small holds to a flake crack, which leads to the break of Sphinx Nose Traverse, then direct to the top. Serious.
Martin Parker [solo, after one top roped practice] 23rd February 1992.
50. East Sphinx Direct 7m VS 5a
In the wall to the right of Terrorist is a short hanging crack. Follow the crack direct and finish up the wider crack above. Note: - The climb has become badly scarred and harder due to badly placed protection! Please place and remove your runners carefully.
Harry Hall, J. Biggins, Bill Dell 1959. The climb was originally graded severe and used a convenient large boulder at the start, which allowed the pocket holds to be reached easily. Unfortunately severe ground erosion over the years has made the climb over a metre higher and subsequently much harder.
51. Left Hand Variation 9m E2 5c
Start as for East Sphinx Direct. From the top of the thin hanging crack move left and climb a thin curving crack to a junction with Walk on the Wild Side. Finish up the final wall to the summit. Serious.
Dave Purvis (solo) 1961. Apparently climbed unintentionally! Purvis had climbed up to “take a look” but passed the point of no return and had to carry on.
52. East Sphinx Climb 7m HVD *
Start in the gully. Follow the obvious ledges leftwards to a prominent crack, which is climbed to a good spike and ledge.
Climbed prior to 1954.
53. Sphinx Nose Traverse 13m S ***
This route is merely an extension of East Sphinx Climb but what a superb pitch it produces! Start as for East Sphinx Climb but leave the vertical crack for a delicate and exposed traverse via the ‘Sphinx Eye’ to the arête. Pull onto the nose to finish on flutings; a classic.
Cliff Fielding and party 1954.
54. Traverse of the God's 14m E2 5b
A sustained climb which crosses the two faces of Sphinx Rock. Start in the cave to the right of Falcon Rib. Bridge up the walls of the cave to pull onto the flank of the Sphinx. Reverse the traverse of West Sphinx Climb along the horizontal crack, and then continue around the nose under a small overlap to join the crack of Sphinx Nose Traverse. Using this for the hands, continue to the final crack of East Sphinx Climb and the top. A bold climb requiring careful rope work.
Ian Dunn, Steve Brown 1982.
To the right of Sphinx Rock and a little higher are three vertical cracks about 1m apart. These are; -
55. Pip 4m D
The corner on the left.
56. Squeak 4m VD
The crack in the nose of the slab.
57. Wilfred 4m HD
The vee groove/crack.
58. Curving Wall 4m VD
Start just right of Wilfred. Climb the concave wall trending right.
All climbed prior to 1956
Bilsdale Buttress
59. Jackdaw Ridge 10m VD *
Start at the left side of the buttress. Climb the ridge direct until near the crest where polished footholds lead left across the face to finish.
Pre 1956
60. Jackdaw Wall 7m E2 6a
Climbs the centre of the short wall left of Jackdaw Ridge. Thin climbing above an appalling landing.
Late 1950s
61. Jackdaw Gully 10m M *
The vee gully to the right of Jackdaw Ridge, with an awkward move at the narrowing.
Pre 1956
62. Christopher 9m VS 4b **
Climb Jackdaw Gully for about two metres then cross the right wall and pull around onto the slab on the right by some delicate moves. Finish up the slab. Another "classic" originally graded Severe.
Christopher Robin Columb, Maurice Wilson 1956.
63. Christopher Direct 9m VS 4c
Climb directly over the overlap at its centre.
Peter Brayshaw, John Smith 1994. Possibly climbed before but never recorded.
64. The Bulge (Super Direct) 8m E1 5b
Starts at the foot of a shallow groove just right of Jackdaw Gully. Gain the groove then climb the wall on its right directly to the top. Serious climbing, and high in its grade.
Eric (Spider) Penman (solo) 1959. This route is growing both in height and seriousness due to severe ground erosion.
65. Wilson's Groove 8m E3 6a
This climb is essentially a hard variation on The Bulge Super Direct. Climb directly up the groove and the delicate slab above. Serious.
Dave Wilson (solo) 1982
66. The Bulge 9m VS 4c *
Start from the foot of Dusty Gully. Climb up to gain a horizontal finger crack then follow it left around the bulge until an awkward step up leads into the final corner.
Arthur Barker circa 1928. The loss of a crucial handhold has made this fine route significantly harder. Originally graded Severe.
67. The Bulge Direct 8m VS 4b
Start as for The Bulge but from the beginning of the traverse climb directly over the small overhang then trend left up the slab to finish.
1959.
68. The Bulge Low Level Traverse 4m 5c ó
An interesting problem starting at the foot of Dusty Gully. Start from a flat foothold on the right arête, step down left and cross the wall to finish in Jackdaw Gully. Now reverse it.
Tony Marr 1977.
69. Christopher/Bulge Combo 11m VS 4c
An interesting combination for climbers who have “done them all”. Start as for Christopher at the foot of Jackdaw Gully. Climb this for two metres until it is possible to hand traverse the thin crack around the arête, move down and traverse rightwards to the corner and finish up The Bulge Direct.
Tony Marr, Mike Tooke 15th June 1997.
Dusty Gully
This is the cleft that separates Bilsdale Buttress from Main Wall. The walls of the gully have all been climbed [D/VD] but do not warrant detailed descriptions.
Main Wall
The large face right of Dusty Gully.
70. The Slab Climb Variation 9m S *
Climb directly up the extreme left edge of the slab with a hard move at the start.