Climbonline.co.uk

Map Reference:   NY677666

Aspect               North Facing

Altitude              257m

Approach time    2 minutes

History

Over the years, climbers have visited Walltown Crags, but it was not until 1984 that any sustained interest was shown in the highest and most impressive black walls of the central area. In this year most of the major climbs in this guide were claimed as pre-cleaned but otherwise on-sight leads by Paul Linfoot. However, a recent developments guide of the time cast doubts about the validity of some of the alleged first ascents being made in the county and details of these routes were not included by the authors of the next NMC guide. In 1992/93 the crag was recleaned and bolted by M. Van Gulik and friends.

Situation and Character

Walltown Crags form part of the Whin Sill, a dolerite edge which outcrops along the length of the Roman Wall. However, because the rock has been quarried, the climbing is more reminiscent of the crags of central Scotland such as Auchinstarry than it is of the neighbouring Crag Lough. In the past much has been made of the looseness of the rock at Walltown and certainly in the early stages of development a lot of loose material was removed. Now most of the routes are pretty solid but there are undoubtedly still a few dodgy holds waiting to surprise the unwary. It is not always obvious which holds these are; soloists be warned, the crag was bolted for a reason! There are two climbing sites at Walltown. The main crag, by contrast, is larger (18-20m) and more laid back and offers steep slab and wall climbing of a technical nature. Holds on both crags are usually positive and quite large. The catch is that they can be few and far between. A long reach can sometimes be an advantage. Some routes have mixed protection, and a set of rocks is recommended.

Little Walltown provides short routes of 20-34' on generally steep rock. Little Walltown crag is on land administered by the Northumberland National Park authorities who have banned climbing there, so no further mention is made of this crag.

Approaches and Access

Walltown Crags lie about 1.5km north east of Greenhead. The main crag is about 300m from the car park on the RH skyline, two minutes from the road. Leave Greenhead along the B6318 and take the first left then after 300m turn right. The parking is between the cattle grid and the farmhouse.

The Climbs

The climbs are up to 20m and are equipped with bolts. They are not however "sport climbs", there are no lower offs. Some bolt belays are set back from the top are hard to find.

1 Comeuppance   VS 5a
Follow the cleaned corner/slab after a difficult start up a flake crack.

2 Physique, not Physics   HVS 5b
Towards the LH end of the crag a grassy rake cuts up from R to L. Climb the wall below this via 2 pegs and a hollow jug
 

3 Happy Horror   MVS 4b
The stacked blocks and corner starting 20m up the rake
 

4 Rags to Riches HVS 5a
Start in the corner to the left of Slaughter and after 7m traverse R over broken ground to join that route.
 

5 Slaughter of the Innocents   E3 5c
An obvious steep finger crack splits the wall.
 

6 Batty Bat   E2 5b
The stepped corner to the left of Against the Odds
 

7 BSE  E1 5b
Follow the corner of Batty Bat until the roof on the L. Traverse 4m L and go up the corner above. To the right the crag becomes more compact and is darker.
 

8 Against the Odds  E3 6a
The arête is take direct until jugs lead up to a finish on the L of the final tower. Wires and 2 bolts.
 

9 Waiting for the End of the World   HVS 5a
Climb blocks to an overhang. Layback up corner to finish.
 

10 Not Waving But Drowning   E3 5c ***
Brilliant and technically sustained. Climb up and R from the pedestal to gain a vertical depression. Then up and slightly L to a lower off. Low in the grade.

11 Expecting to Fly   E5 6a
Crank frantically on very small holds to a hands off rest above the overlap. Crank some more and maybe gain the top. Has been equipped with 3 bolts by an unknown benefactor and so presumably led.
 

12 Russian Roulette   6a **
The obvious layback and crack line past two overhangs. Strenuous.
 

13 Stern Expression   E3 6a
A climb which looks very severe. It isn't. Particularly since the starting pedestal has fallen down
 

14 Cricket   E3 6a
The arête more or less direct. Difficult moves past the fourth bolt lead to an awkward mantel onto a jug. From here mantel onto a second jug and finish amusingly on the R side of the arête. It is possible to avoid some of the difficulty by stepping L, but ...
 

15 Brute   E2 5c
The obvious groove. Technical. Clipping the third bolt is a little intimidating.
 

16 Neat, Neat, Neat   HVS 5b
Easier than it looks. The top crack offers extra runners if required.
 

17 Cave Route Left Hand   E1 5b
Less taxing than its namesake. Gain the cave from the L and finish up the L of two grooves.
 

18 Conscript Route   E2 5c
The shallow chimney direct (crux), then airily up the crest to finish.
 

19 The Knowledge   E3 6a
The route of the crag. Superb wall climbing leads to an enigmatic crux at the top. (the grade may seem ungenerous to the short).

20 Ocean of Ordure   VS 4c
The corner via four bolts. Better than the name suggests.
 

21 Sea of Sinks   E1 5c
The fault and faint prow to the R of Ocean of Ordure. Shares pro.
 

22 Song for Slim   E2 5b
Climb the L facing groove/corner.