Map Reference: NU161178
West Facing
Altitude 150m
Approach 2 minutes
Author Will Walker
History
Despite visits from a few people since the wood was felled, nothing was
recorded until John McRoberts noticed the crag and persuaded Will Walker to join
him for a closer look. The guide is substantially the work of Will Walker.
Situation
The rock is for the most part excellent. The height of the outcrops ranges from
two to five meters. Landings are soft and sandy apart from the occasional
boulder. The only serious hazards encountered are the Vlad the Impaler brashings
that hide in the bracken; most of these have been removed in the vicinity of the
bouldering but care is needed when moving between the buttresses. The views from
the hill all round are top class.
Approach
From Alnwick take the Eglingham road until a right turn for White House Farm
and White House Folly is reached. It is possible to drive up the minor road
towards White House Folly and park near the sign and gate for the bridleway.
Parking is very limited here (two cars). In the unlikely event of other visitors
there is a larger parking space further back down the road.
White House Rocks are
on the west-facing hillside below the trig point between White House Farm and
White House Folly, approximately five miles north west of Alnwick. The rocks are
in a former forestry plantation, which has now been cleared. The former
plantation area is fenced off from adjacent fields but there is a public
bridleway that crosses the lower part of the hill.
The Climbs
No formal approach has been made for access but no exception has been taken so
far. The buttresses in the field to the left of the former plantation (Roadside
Buttress and Fence Buttress) may be subject to greater sensitivity – No problems
have been climbed on these rocks as yet.
Roadside Buttress
In the farm field beyond the path gate there is a buttress by the road.
There is a slabby aręte here that may be of interest.
Fence Buttress
The fence bounding the farmed field runs up to a buttress on the skyline. There
are what look to be very tasty problems over the fence. (The flake on the
undercut front of the buttress is a distinctive line.)
Skyline Ribs
To the right of Fence Buttress are some blocks with Callerhues style
finishes.
5b The twin cracks right of the slabby recess.
4b The block at the right hand end.
Arrival Rocks
The first rocks reached from the path gate (below the Skyline Ribs). There
are two walls with a rib and dirty area between.
The left hand wall still has a heavy overburden of lichen from its forest
immersion and an earthy finish.
4b The dirty crack at the right hand end.
4a The wall and aręte to the right of the crack.
On the right hand of the walls:
4c. The higher left hand side.
4b. From the undercut flake towards the right hand side.
4a. The right hand side.
Overhanging Twins
Above and right of Arrival Rocks are two overhanging buttresses. Worthwhile
problems on the left hand of these need more effort.
On the right hand of the buttresses:
4c. Thin crack, wall and bulge at the left hand side.
4c. The thin undercut crack at the extreme right.
On The Buses Buttress
A short but undercut boulder behind the right overhanging twin.
5b. Sitting start at the left hand end. Move up left.
4c. Sitting start at the big flake.
5a. Sitting start below the RHS of flake, fingers in thin break.
Croc Slot Buttress
A short distance right of On The Buses is a buttress which is undercut on
its right and side.
4b. Sitting start – The left hand aręte.
4c. Sitting start – Climb the line of thin flakes.
4b. From the boulder - Pull up the undercut nose just right of the short groove.
5b. On the right hand side, just right of the large boulder – pull up on two
slots in the lip.
5c. Sitting start at RHS between boulders. Up and left to finish as for the
previous problem.
Roof Buttress
Further right – easily identified by the flake in the roof. The flake leads
to a desperate looking finish (unclimbed - go get it).
4c. Capstone Rib: The rib at the right end is climbed on its left to the bulge,
step up, move round right and to the top with interest. (A lovely routelet.)
Little Slab
3a The rib at the end of the short slab to the right is pleasant.
Big Buttress
Right again is a big bulging buttress with route-sized objectives. The only
‘effort’ so far is the very easy shelf (with the fading 1810? inscription) and
crack at the left hand side.
Big Slab
You guessed - right again is a ‘large’ slab.
3a. Start at an obvious large pocket. Direct to the top with an airy feel.
4c. Just right of the bilberry patch on the slab – straight up. Nice.
5a. Starfish: 1m right below a mono – gain the slab via marine moves.
The tall will miss out on the fun.
4c. At the RHS climb onto the slab via low ledges. More niceness.
The right hand end of the slab is very undercut and should provide further
interest for the capable.
Iron Stone Wall
Immediately right are two short walls covered in ironstone. There is a small
overhung recess between the slab and the wall.
5a. In the back of the recess – pull up to rounded finish on rough rock.
4a. The left hand of ironstone wall.
4a. The right hand ironstone wall.
Gallery
Photos by and of John McRoberts and Will Walker
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Northumberland Climbing Guide The definitive guide to climbing routes in Northumberland. Updates available from the NMC here.
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The Northumberland Bouldering Guide The Second Edition of the guide was written and produced by the people who developed the area. Updates available from the NMC here.
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For more information about this crag visit the NMC website.