Map Reference: NY762940
Aspect South West Facing
Altitude 310m
Approach time 5 minutes
History
Whiteheugh
has a very short history. The crag was climbed on by B. Imeson and Gordon
Thompson in the sixty's and Steve Blake in the seventy’s. All the names and
grades are by Bob Smith, John and Andrew Earl, Karin Magog and Steve Crowe who
have invested a lot of time during 1994/5 climbing all the lines described.
Situation and Character
The
crag is beautifully situated in a sheltered position on the edge of a clearing
in Kielder Forest. Most of the developed climbing is to the left of the spring.
There is a lot of scope for bouldering at the right hand end of the crag, along
with one route.
Approaches and Access
Follow
the B6320 West through Bellingham. Do not cross the River North Tyne but follow
the minor road along the North bank of the river to Lanehead. Turn right at the
cross roads and continue to the next crossroads, turn left here through
Gatehouse and continue past the Reivers of Tarset and follow the forestry road
to park below the crag. The path up to Whiteheugh is invariably boggy due to the
fact that a spring emanates from the crag.
The Climbs
The
climbs are all less than 10m and are described from right to left.
1.
Lost Property E1 5c
*
At the far right
end of the crag is a high South-facing wall. Gain and climb the crack just right
of the arête with difficulty.
Steve
Crowe and Karin Magog 20th August 1997
The next recorded
line is to the left of the spring.
2.
Whispering Grass HS/MVS
The obvious short
heather filled crack is the first line to the left of the spring.
3.
The Living Years HVS 6a *
Climb the bulging
nose to the left to gain an obvious ledge at half height, continue more easily.
Steve
Crowe 8th May 1994
4.
Just a Closer Walk... HVS 5b **
The wide corner
crack.
Steve
Crowe 8th May 1994 May have been done before.
5.
True Grit E4 6b ***
The obvious thin
crack to the left.
Steve
Blake
1970’s
6.
Whiter than White E4 6c ***
The wall left
again using a series of shallow pockets to, gain an obvious horizontal break.
Move left then up to finish.
Steve
Crowe 10
August 1997
(Climbed
with pre placed protection 8 May 1994 as White Lies)
7.
John’s Route E2 5b **
Just left of the
arête is a line of large pockets. Study them well before you start! Follow
these up to some rounded ledges then to the top.
John
Earl
8.
Pride and Prejudice E1 5c **
The obvious sickle
shaped crack is gained with difficulty from the left then followed. Trend right
to finish.
Karin
Magog
9.
Whiteheugh Corner VD
Climb the corner.
The next route is
just left of a densely vegetated slab in a recess...
10.
Clutching at Straws E2 6a
Start to the left
of the vegetation at an obvious pocket. From this gain a pocket on the left,
good thread runner, then continue up and right to finish up the obvious crack.
Karin
Magog
11.
Tears in Heaven E3 6a
To the left is and
obvious ‘eye. Gain this from the break below then finish direct by a series of
thin cracks.
Steve
Crowe
Left of the broken
gully is an overhanging crack...
12.
True Blue HVS 5b
The obvious
overhanging crack
13.
Bones Don't Bounce E5/6 6b ***
The wall to the
left again is climbed to reach a flake. At the top of the flake a long, blind,
reach left hopefully gains the finish.
Andrew
Earl 24 July 1993(aged 16)
14.
Pâter Severe
The slab round to
the left is climbed via the pockets.
Karin
Magog
The next buttress
is much further left and slightly forward of the main crag line. It has an
impressive unclimbed overhanging face.
15.
White Noise E1 5c
Under the right arête
is a nasty jumble of unstable boulders. Climb the right side of the right arête
using a one-finger pocket to gain a large sloping ledge then the break.
Steve
Crowe 3 July 1994
16.
White Heat E4 6a **
Start to the left
of the left arête. Move up then rightwards to gain a dubious wire placement
behind a small hollow flake. Continue up this to the top.
Steve
Crowe 24 July 1993
17.
The Whitest HVS 5a **
Climb the crack just to the left of the start of the previous route with an awkward move rightwards on to the ledge near the top.
Karin Magog
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Northumberland Climbing Guide The definitive guide to climbing routes in Northumberland. Updates available from the NMC here.
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The Northumberland Bouldering Guide The Second Edition of the guide was written and produced by the people who developed the area. Updates available from the NMC here.
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For more information about this crag visit the NMC website.