Access
A quiet west facing crag with a long (or a steep) walk in and a mixture of trad and sports routes, however to avoid angry farmers and the crag being banned, please ask permission from Malcolm Campbell in Arncliff before going to Yew Cougar. He is the farmer who owns all the land that the crag and approach is on and is apparently getting annoyed with climbers going there without permission, leaving litter etc. M.J. Campbell, Castle Farm, Arncliffe. Phone 01756 770 269
News
Ian Vickers has added another Yew Cougar test piece. Ian was close to success on a couple of weeks ago but recent rains threatened to close down Yew Cougar for another year. Wonderwall (F8b+) starts at the new line of bolts just to the right of the old aid bolts, mentioned in the current guidebook. A powerful boulder problem (crux) start over the initial overlap leads to thin technical climbing up the wall above, more powerful moves over the final roof (redpoint crux!) may lead to success. Reported 3rd October 2005
1a Yew’ve Got To
Roll With It 60m E8 6a ,6c,6b.
A three pitch left to right girdle traverse of the whole crag.
Ian Vickers, Gareth Parry May 1998
4 Yew Terrace
F7a
It should be F7a if only for the start. It has also been extended over the top
bulge.
6a Strictly B Team
18m F7b+
A bolted line between Against All Odds and Empty Rhetoric to a belay above Level
Pegging.
Tony Burnell Summer 1994
7a Justin Time
12m F7c
Between Empty Rhetoric and Level Pegging through the bulges to the traverse line
of Level Pegging.
Chris Sowden 1994.
7b Happy Birthday
To Yew 20m E8 6c
Follow Justin Time and continue through the bulges to the top of the crag.
Ian Vickers, Gareth Parry May 1998
8a Pegged Out
22m F8a+ ***
The impressive line of bolts starting from the corner of Level Pegging and
leading up the rib and bulging wall on the right.
Ian Vickers Spring 1993
8b Love Sculpture
20m F8a+ ***
The 'Mick Ryan ‘project' mentioned in the main guide brought to fruition at last
- but not by Mick!
Ian Vickers Spring 1993
The Ten Year Itch Hard 8a
This follows the new line of bolts right of Love Sculpture. Gaz Parry has repeated it and said it was Hard 8a. Could this be a new grade similar to the old Hard XS or is it just true that Ian can't grade for toffee!
Ian Vickers 2003
13 Cruising For A
Bruising F7b+
is virtually a total clip-up, a grade of F7b+ is more appropriate.
17a Cavalier
Attitude 10m E4
6a A more difficult variation finish to Cavalier Cruncher. From the first peg
step right and climb straight up over the overlap.
Tony Burnell, Chris Sowden, Nick Hallam 1st June 1992
Gallery:
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| The easy walk in! | Andrew Earl on Bustin the Block E5 6b | John Earl on Bustin the Block E5 6b | Rian Cruising at Yew Cougar |